| Author | Message | ||
     AdrianJ Unregistered guest |
Firstly thank you Omar with the advice on H.T lead fitting. All sorted and misfire gone. Now I have a new problem. Again 1996 Brooklands. Not wanting to crank. No previous issues. Fitted with Meta aftermarket alarm. Meta expert been and ascertained alarm/immobiliser not the problem. Has now removed the cranking immobilisation part from the equation. The starter relay by the suspension tower has 4 wires: A permanent brown live (terminal 30?) and it's earth. This it appears supplies current to the starter. The other pair of terminals are white/red (switched live?) and it's earth. Energising the white/red connects power to the starter from the permanent live brown at terminal 30. Problem is no power is present at the white/red when ignition switch is in crank position (bear in mind the immobiliser has been disconnected now to remove it from the equation). Manually applying power to the white/red operates the starter and engine runs. My question is where does the power going to white/red originate from when in crank position - via the starter inhibit relay adjacent to it? I have no access to wiring diagrams. I feel this is just something silly and will try swapping the starter inhibit relay as had to give up due to rain. Hoping it's not the ignition switch! I appreciate your time and that this is all a voluntary help forum so not making any demands :-) (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2186 Registered: 04-2009 |
ok Adrian - I have the circuit diagram on my screen. The relay has 4 wires. A 1.0 black wire that goes to earth. A 0.5 White and Red wire that is connected to the air-conditioning relay (located under the glove box of a RHD car). A 2.0 Brown and black wire that goes to the starter motor. Lastly a 2.0 brown wire that goes to the alternator. This last wire is probably your culprit because it has a fusible link in it. I bet that link has blown. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2187 Registered: 04-2009 |
The fusible link is located at the alternator end of the wire. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2188 Registered: 04-2009 |
I could have sent you the wiring diagram and component locations by wattsap if you use that platform. This site is a little old and does not lend itself to capturing screenshots and videos. Also I respond much faster to wattsap. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2189 Registered: 04-2009 |
Having read your post one more time I think you probably have a live supply to the relay meaning your fusible link is probably OK. That therefore makes me think that the AC relay has probably failed. | ||
| AdrianJ Unregistered guest |
Thank you for that Omar. I appear not to have that 2nd brown wire to alternator. The white/red and black wire energise (when in crank position) the hold on windings that close the main relay contacts. This allows current from the thickish brown wire (the only brown wire there) to go to the starter via the thickish black wire. Does that make sense? Does the starter inhibit relay have no part in the cranking circuit? Applying power to the white/red terminal cranks and starts the engine. Will have a look for that 2nd brown wire to the alternator. Funnily enough someone was talking to me about WhatsApp and was suggesting I go on it, whatever it is! Bentley Heritage site only provides workshop manuals up to around 1990. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| AdrianJ Unregistered guest |
P.S Talking UK spec here Omar. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2190 Registered: 04-2009 |
Do you have 4 wires that go to the relay - the answer appears to be yes. If so - are the 4 wires colour coded like the manual says? if so - does each wire go to where i said they should go? The details I have provided you is for a UK spec Brooklands of 1996 vintage. Thanks Omar | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 741 Registered: 07-2015 |
You may be missing the obvious, there is a plastic bit that often breaks on the ignition switch, called a coupling ok Mike | ||
| AdrianJ Unregistered guest |
Will check I have my facts correct and come back, thank you for your patience Omar. Mike, thanks for the input. Not familiar with this ignition switch - only Shadow 11 if indeed there is a difference. Not familiar with removal process being mounted differently. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 751 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi Adrian This may help https://www.rollsroyceforums.com/threads/ignition-switch-repair.3081/ Mike | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 358 Registered: 10-2009 |
Don't be alarmed by this problem. I dismantled and repaired the switch on SBH10630 without documenting any of it apart from working notes which were discarded after the job was done. It is a straightforward process - just photograph and note all the connections during disassembly, code the nuts and screws with marker pen and tag any confusing wires similarly. There are no electronics, just connections and contacts. The fault with mine was the main "Ignition ON" contact was worn away by sparking. It's a biggish lump of copper and easy to reproduce. That was 15(?) years ago, and OK since. Alan D. | ||
| Cliff Biggs New User Username: cliffy Post Number: 41 Registered: 09-2021 |
Before you take the switch apart try replacing all the relays with new and see if that works. It did on mine. There is one starter system relay usually behind the instrument panel and not on the bank of relays below in the knee roll area. |
