| Author | Message | ||
     Richard Vadocz Yet to post message Username: clackavosticus Post Number: 1 Registered: 12-2020 |
Hello All, I am investigating options for purchasing an early 80's (carburetted) Silver Spirit and had a couple of Questions. What grade fuel should be used as a minimum? What type of oil is best for these models? - I had a look at the Castrol site and they recommend Castrol GTX 20-50. Are there any other recommendations? | ||
| Mark Luft Frequent User Username: bentleyman1993 Post Number: 327 Registered: 10-2016 |
Hi Richard, I use SHELL ROTELLA 15-40 in my Turbo R. Due to the turbo, I use premium gas 93 octane by US standards. Good Luck and buy the best you can afford. | ||
| Richard Vadocz New User Username: clackavosticus Post Number: 2 Registered: 12-2020 |
Thanks Mark. Turbo engines are very different from normally aspirated though. Would you know what is the recommended fuel grade for a normally aspirated Silver Spirit? | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 741 Registered: 05-2016 |
Castrol GTX 20/50 would be good and any good 20/50 like Mobil, Ducham's etc would be OK too. Engine oil has improved over the years so any good 10/40 would also be OK. Any thinner and there's a risk of leaks at seals or gaskets as cars of this era tended to be a little porous in that regard. Important thing is not to overfill as this will put additional pressure on the rear engine seal and a leak there is a major job to fix. | ||
| Richard Vadocz New User Username: clackavosticus Post Number: 3 Registered: 12-2020 |
Thanks Larry - that just leaves the issue of fuel. Could anyone confirm what fuel grade goes in a naturally aspirated silver spirit? | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 744 Registered: 05-2016 |
Sorry Richard, I overlooked the fuel spec. For Australian models 94 RON appears to be recommended and for UK/EU it's 97 RON. The fuel grade, ignition timing settings & CO2 parameters are quoted for the various models from 1966 to 1999 near the latter part of the technical section at the bottom of the main menu. See 110 in the menu. If you're using a different RON to that specified you may need to slightly adjust the ignition timing to find the sweet spot, raise RPM a little when setting ignition timing if using lower RON fuel and lower RPM a little if using higher RON fuel. I believe that these cars will run efficiently on anything from 90 RON upwards but I normally use 95 RON because that's what's readily available where I live. | ||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 411 Registered: 03-2012 |
Hi Larry, I have only covered a couple hundred miles this year in the Rolls 1979, I hope to change the engine oil in April (as normal regardless of mileage travelled). Should I change the oil filter in your opinion ?. I usually get castrol gtx from micks garage. Thanks in advance. Hk | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 728 Registered: 10-2008 |
Hubert, I change the oil filters on my cars at 6000 miles or 2 years. I change the oil at 3000 miles or annually, 15/50 oil ( 20/50 for my S1 ) My cars are all post war with full flow filtration.When I had prewar cars with no oil filtration, the oil change interval was 1000 miles max, with a SAE30 or 40 oil se/ cd rated. Mark | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 745 Registered: 05-2016 |
Hi Hubert, Personally I start thinking about changing the oil and filter once I reach 3000 miles but don't go beyond 4000 miles before I do it. If I don't get to 3000 miles in a given year I change oil & filter anyway. Every once in a while I add 1/2 litre of ATF to the engine oil at approx 300 miles before an oil change and drive gently until the change is done, that helps to drain any sludge from the sump. The filter holds quite a lot of old oil and that's the main reason I change that too. I normally buy 3 filters at a time so I have a new one ready when I need it or sometimes when ordering parts from the UK I add an oil filter to the order so I usually have a spare one as required. I've noticed in the past couple of years that the rubber seal on the new filters is sometimes not as thick as usual which can result in a slight leak so I keep the old, good filter seals as spares just in case. To a lesser extent than brake fluid, engine oil is hydroscopic so to help expel any moisture I open the oil filler cap for about 10 minutes after a long run to allow any moisture to escape as steam. Every couple of years I clean the oil breather gauze filter and pipe between the oil filler neck and the air intake as a precaution but it's usually clean when I open it. | ||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 412 Registered: 03-2012 |
Hi Larry and Mark, thanks for get back to me, I'll get a new filter so . Thanks again. Hk |
