Removing Water Tap Valve (89 Turbo R)... Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Australian RR Forums » Spirit Series » Removing Water Tap Valve (89 Turbo R) « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Greene
Frequent User
Username: benzjag

Post Number: 206
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Sunday, 31 May, 2020 - 13:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I need to remove the water tap valve in my 89 Turbo R. I have located the tap. Do I have to remove the blower fan above it? Can I slide it forward and have enough space to replace the valve?

Any suggestions from those who have "been there, done it"?

Thanks!

Richard
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

michael vass
Frequent User
Username: mikebentleyturbo2

Post Number: 662
Registered: 07-2015
Posted on Sunday, 31 May, 2020 - 18:50:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Richard
I've had the blower off mine and it's not a big deal, for how much more access you will gain it's worth it.
Thankfully I've not had to change my valve, good luck with your job!
Mike
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mark Aldridge
Frequent User
Username: mark_aldridge

Post Number: 681
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Sunday, 31 May, 2020 - 21:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Keep posting, I have the same job to do on my 1989 Mulsanne s. Even when the valve is off, a small amount of hotwater is flowing.
Mark
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 2037
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Sunday, 31 May, 2020 - 22:36:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I have that job to do on my Azure too.
Photos please Richard.
I remember doing the job on my 89 Spur 15 years ago and it was not that much of an nightmare to do.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Greene
Frequent User
Username: benzjag

Post Number: 207
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Sunday, 31 May, 2020 - 23:30:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Michael...

Any advance tips on removing the blower? It seems like a tight space!!!

Richard
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

michael vass
Frequent User
Username: mikebentleyturbo2

Post Number: 663
Registered: 07-2015
Posted on Monday, 01 June, 2020 - 21:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Richard
Yes it's tight but possible, much easier than the other side!
Just undo the 3 8mm nuts and disconnect Mike
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Greene
Frequent User
Username: benzjag

Post Number: 209
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Wednesday, 10 June, 2020 - 14:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Job done. The mono-valve was toast with the rubber split in 3 places! Now, a AC recharge issue! I will start a new thread!

Appreciate everyone who helped!

Richard
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 2040
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 10 June, 2020 - 14:59:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Did you manage to get any photos Richard?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Greene
Frequent User
Username: benzjag

Post Number: 211
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Thursday, 11 June, 2020 - 08:07:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Omar,

Sorry, I do not have pics. Honestly, I didn't remove the fan, but simply removed the 2 bolts holding the valve assembly down. I was able to wiggle it upwards to remove the 4 screws that secure the valve to the housing. All bolts were rather easy to get to except one. I used a smaller screw driver for that one. The valve is identical to the one used in the 80s Mercedes. I bought mine on EBay for only $13.00! Works great do far!

Richard
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 638
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Thursday, 11 June, 2020 - 08:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I replaced the seals in my duo-valve on a W124 Mercedes about 5 years ago with a seal kit from China found on eBay. So far it is working well.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mark Aldridge
Frequent User
Username: mark_aldridge

Post Number: 683
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Thursday, 11 June, 2020 - 20:53:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Richard, do you have a Mercedes part number or car model for the valve ? I assume it is just the valve that you change, and not the complete assembly ie just part no. CD6683 on FS parts list.
Thanks
Mark
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Edward Mckinley
New User
Username: ed_mckinley

Post Number: 24
Registered: 10-2019
Posted on Saturday, 13 June, 2020 - 13:19:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

According to Richard Treacy, because the heat control is done by the mixing flaps the monovalve is not necessary and can be removed altogether. Coolant circulating through the heater matrix shouldn't matter as long as the flaps are working correctly. Has anyone tried running this way?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 2041
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Sunday, 14 June, 2020 - 02:55:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I am the first person to stand by all that Richard says.

However there is a proviso here.
All the flaps on my Azure work and indeed very well. But when the outside temperature is 55 degrees C and the coolant is leaking slightly in the heater matrix - I don't care what the flaps are doing - the heat that goes into the heater matrix DOES make a difference and the overall cooling in the car plummets like a stone.

Edward the advice above is good up to 42 degrees C ambient temperatures.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Edward Mckinley
New User
Username: ed_mckinley

Post Number: 25
Registered: 10-2019
Posted on Sunday, 14 June, 2020 - 03:53:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Omar, thanks for the qualifier of 42 degrees Celsius, that's HOT!!
Here in Chicago we typically start complaining around 34 degrees Celsius.
I replaced my heater tap a few months back trying to rectify a problem with the heat on my 89 Corniche. When I request heat I get a kind of oscillating intermittent heat - cold - heat blowing from the vents. I believe the climate control ECU board needs rebuilding. Per Richards advice I replaced all of the little microrelays on the board.
After this attempt I have now changed the problem to absolutely no heat coming from the vents, and virtually no change in temperature when rolling the temp control from blue to red (defroster is good and hot and AC works). Perhaps there are other faulty components on the board, or perhaps I got one of the relays too hot while soldering? It's always fun :-)

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Please quote Chassis Numbers for all vehicles mentioned.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action: