| Author | Message | ||
     Richard Greene Frequent User Username: benzjag Post Number: 206 Registered: 12-2012 |
I need to remove the water tap valve in my 89 Turbo R. I have located the tap. Do I have to remove the blower fan above it? Can I slide it forward and have enough space to replace the valve? Any suggestions from those who have "been there, done it"? Thanks! Richard | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 662 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi Richard I've had the blower off mine and it's not a big deal, for how much more access you will gain it's worth it. Thankfully I've not had to change my valve, good luck with your job! Mike | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 681 Registered: 10-2008 |
Keep posting, I have the same job to do on my 1989 Mulsanne s. Even when the valve is off, a small amount of hotwater is flowing. Mark | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2037 Registered: 04-2009 |
I have that job to do on my Azure too. Photos please Richard. I remember doing the job on my 89 Spur 15 years ago and it was not that much of an nightmare to do. | ||
| Richard Greene Frequent User Username: benzjag Post Number: 207 Registered: 12-2012 |
Michael... Any advance tips on removing the blower? It seems like a tight space!!! Richard | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 663 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi Richard Yes it's tight but possible, much easier than the other side! Just undo the 3 8mm nuts and disconnect Mike | ||
| Richard Greene Frequent User Username: benzjag Post Number: 209 Registered: 12-2012 |
Job done. The mono-valve was toast with the rubber split in 3 places! Now, a AC recharge issue! I will start a new thread! Appreciate everyone who helped! Richard | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2040 Registered: 04-2009 |
Did you manage to get any photos Richard? | ||
| Richard Greene Frequent User Username: benzjag Post Number: 211 Registered: 12-2012 |
Omar, Sorry, I do not have pics. Honestly, I didn't remove the fan, but simply removed the 2 bolts holding the valve assembly down. I was able to wiggle it upwards to remove the 4 screws that secure the valve to the housing. All bolts were rather easy to get to except one. I used a smaller screw driver for that one. The valve is identical to the one used in the 80s Mercedes. I bought mine on EBay for only $13.00! Works great do far! Richard | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 638 Registered: 05-2016 |
I replaced the seals in my duo-valve on a W124 Mercedes about 5 years ago with a seal kit from China found on eBay. So far it is working well. | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 683 Registered: 10-2008 |
Richard, do you have a Mercedes part number or car model for the valve ? I assume it is just the valve that you change, and not the complete assembly ie just part no. CD6683 on FS parts list. Thanks Mark | ||
| Edward Mckinley New User Username: ed_mckinley Post Number: 24 Registered: 10-2019 |
According to Richard Treacy, because the heat control is done by the mixing flaps the monovalve is not necessary and can be removed altogether. Coolant circulating through the heater matrix shouldn't matter as long as the flaps are working correctly. Has anyone tried running this way? | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2041 Registered: 04-2009 |
I am the first person to stand by all that Richard says. However there is a proviso here. All the flaps on my Azure work and indeed very well. But when the outside temperature is 55 degrees C and the coolant is leaking slightly in the heater matrix - I don't care what the flaps are doing - the heat that goes into the heater matrix DOES make a difference and the overall cooling in the car plummets like a stone. Edward the advice above is good up to 42 degrees C ambient temperatures. | ||
| Edward Mckinley New User Username: ed_mckinley Post Number: 25 Registered: 10-2019 |
Omar, thanks for the qualifier of 42 degrees Celsius, that's HOT!! Here in Chicago we typically start complaining around 34 degrees Celsius. I replaced my heater tap a few months back trying to rectify a problem with the heat on my 89 Corniche. When I request heat I get a kind of oscillating intermittent heat - cold - heat blowing from the vents. I believe the climate control ECU board needs rebuilding. Per Richards advice I replaced all of the little microrelays on the board. After this attempt I have now changed the problem to absolutely no heat coming from the vents, and virtually no change in temperature when rolling the temp control from blue to red (defroster is good and hot and AC works). Perhaps there are other faulty components on the board, or perhaps I got one of the relays too hot while soldering? It's always fun  |
