| Author | Message | ||
     Richard Harvey Yet to post message Username: windy_weekend Post Number: 1 Registered: 01-2020 |
In the process of changing spark plugs in my 88 SZ Spur I inadvertently pulled one of the ignition wires out of the spark plug boot on B2. I clearly need to now get a new cable, but I've got a couple of questions: 1) Is it safe to assume I can't fix this without replacing with a the cable? Reason I ask its because of question 4... 2) before I go and break something else, is there any unusual method to disconnecting the other end that goes in the distributor (just pull, or twist and pull etc)? 3) Anyone recommend any brands to use, or doesn't it matter (Flying Spares take forever)? 4) I can't see a way to get the cables unwrapped and out as they looks like they feed to some clamp/bracket that I can't see any way of disconnecting (see circled pic). Any advice on how to get these even out so I can get a new cable in?  . | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 661 Registered: 10-2008 |
Richard, can you not crimp a new plug connector onto the existing lead, something like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MSD-34604-SPARK-PLUG-CONNECTORS/163913681612?hash=item262a044acc:g:cHcAAOSwce1drasc. Alternatively replace the lead with any good suppressed lead. Mark | ||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 1939 Registered: 04-2009 |
i would simply use this.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NGK-LB05E-Spark-Plug-Cap-Resistor-Cover-Black-90-8031/272129920779?hash=item3f5c350f0b:g:oLkAAOSwB4NWu1Yg and just leave everything in place.... untouched | ||
| Richard Harvey New User Username: windy_weekend Post Number: 2 Registered: 01-2020 |
Follow Up - I've now got a nice new replacement wire, but I need some advice on how to install the thing from someone who's replaced any of these on the B side of the engine. There appears to be a clamp bolted onto the engine that the cables weave through. I can't find a way to get any type of tool thin enough to reach down there and get this thing off (see the red circles in the diagram) to be able to get the new wire threaded through. There hardly seems room enough to get a spanner down there, let alone a wrench as the bolt is underneath the clamp, making it impossible to get to. I could easily connect either end of the cable and have a 'ninth' redundant cable lying around disconnected and still going through this loom, but clearly would rather do a decent job. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to disconnect this thing, and then even how to get one of the cables out so I can replace it? Doesn't seem to be any room to get these out without disconnecting other stuff. Am very open to any and all suggestions at this point. Thanks.   | ||
| Richard Harvey New User Username: windy_weekend Post Number: 3 Registered: 01-2020 |
PS - I don't think I'll be able to use the existing wire as the actual wire is stuffed way up in the plastic and would need cutting to get something I could then crimp | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1683 Registered: 02-2013 |
Richard get the right sized spanner/wrench, heat it and bend it with blow torch until it fits on the end of the clamp bolt. Getting the bolt loose is the easy part. Getting the bolt back in without cross threading it will be a task but soldering some thin wire to the top of the bolt will help. Another way is to call up the services of chosen daughter, niece or even a Minister of WAR who are likely to have smaller hands to do the trick. The important bit is to relax and try, try, try again. Have a towel under the car to stop the bolt bouncing into some other dimension and a small magnet on a long flexible stork with a telescopic dentist's mirror and a powerful torch will help. If you think it's a crazy difficult job to do that's because you are right because it is a crazy difficult job to do. If you have to remove other parts to get access to the bolt then remove them. I just had a look at the ignition HT wires on my Spirit but some previous mechanic has bypassed those clamps with new wires. The clamps keep the wires from melting on the hot surfaces of the cylinder head and it's best to use them. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Robert Harris-Mayes Yet to post message Username: robertcothi Post Number: 1 Registered: 08-2012 |
Richard, I have just done exactly this on my shadow1 SRH12338. It took me two afternoons until I realised that it is more easily done from the RHS of the car with long arms. Use a small 1/2 inch AF socket with a 1/4 inch drive. Remove the bracket and then disentangle the cable. I have not put it back yet because I managed to break the choke stove pipes in the process. (They were rotten though | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 123 Registered: 04-2015 |
Richard, A 13mm spanner fits the bolt. Patience is required to get it out. There isn't room to slide a ring spanner over the bolt head when the bolt is unscrewed. Having removed the clamp, I cheated by cutting a slot from the bottom of the clamp bracket to the bolt hole. You can then screw the bolt in a fair amount by hand and then use pair of pliers or similar to grip the clamp closed and slide it behind the bolt head. The bolt also secures another bracket. You might want to replace the rubber separator – they’re inexpensive (by R-R standards. Regards, Darryl | ||
| Richard Harvey New User Username: windy_weekend Post Number: 4 Registered: 01-2020 |
Thanks folks. Have now shot my third weekend trying to even reach and get something onto this bolt unsuccessfully. I've never had something so small (and theoretically simple) be so frustrating. I've purchased an array of mirrors and lights so I can actually see the thing, but getting a spanner or even a tiny 1/4 micro wrench in that slot is still proving impossible, even with a rigged up extension, and disconnecting all kinds of pipes to get to it. Did any of you use some kind of ultra-super low profile socket to get into this, or will I need an offset wrench? | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1690 Registered: 02-2013 |
Richard I have just looked at the distance between the back of the cylinder heads to the firewall on my Spirit and it looks like there is 3/4 inch distance. My clamps and bolts are missing but I would estimate with the bolts and clamps in place the distance would go down to 5/8 - 1/2 inch. It could be that either my engine or your engine may have shifted either backwards or forwards because of oil damaged engine/transmission mounts if your distance from the head of the bolt to the firewall is different. The right hand side of the engine (looking from front seat view forwards) looks like a right mongrel to tackle without removing a few items, so I would attempt the left hand side first. Myself I would not use a socket but would use a short ring spanner to crack the bolt loose then an open end spanner to wind the bolt out. I am never afraid to modify cheap Chinese spanners to get the job done including grinding some thickness from the spanner head. As I mentioned before getting the bolt out is one task but getting it back in without cross threading it is another. Make certain whatever spanner/wrench you use that it fits firmly on the head of the bolt as you will enter a world of pain and loathing if you round the head off. A qualified Rolls Royce mechanic from Europe once boasted to me that "Not many mechanics can work on a Rolls Royce..." Which I took to mean than one needs to be quite tenacious to repair a Rolls Royce. So don't sweat the frustration because it really is part of the task. Enjoy. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Richard Harvey New User Username: windy_weekend Post Number: 5 Registered: 01-2020 |
Thanks Vlad. I think I've found a super low profile socket that may fit my micro wrench. I'm gonna go away, figure out what else I can disconnect, and then give it another shot next week. | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 126 Registered: 04-2015 |
I've just studied your photo and see that there are differences and the access is better on our 1990 SZ so my comments are only of limited use. Have you considered using an ignition lead separator such as this secured with a tie wrap. , https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUE-8MM-IGNITION-LEAD-HT-CLIP-HOLDER-SEPARATOR-CLAMP-HOLDER-SPACERS-KIT-4-WAY/112541045799?hash=item1a33f81427:g:8F8AAOSwYZ9ZoU-q, I used one for about a year until I refitted the leads using a new insert. Not the neatest solution and the purists will have palpitations but it will probably get you out of trouble Regards Darryl | ||
| Richard Harvey New User Username: windy_weekend Post Number: 6 Registered: 01-2020 |
I hate to have to admit it, but I might just have to go with Darryl's spacer clip solution. This is only one lead, so I could tidy it comfortably away behind the others no problem. Will I still be rocking myself to sleep in ten years time knowing I've done a secret bodge job on such a beautiful piece of craftsmanship though? | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 127 Registered: 04-2015 |
When it keeps you awake just think of the lost drinking time you have saved. Darryl | ||
| Richard Harvey New User Username: windy_weekend Post Number: 7 Registered: 01-2020 |
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| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1691 Registered: 02-2013 |
Richard, yes and no, you can get away with a simplistic fix but you will forgo the adrenaline rush that comes with a successful correct repair via hours of tormenting frustration, skinned knuckles etc etc. Part of being a custodian is that rush. (Message approved by david_gore) |
