| Author | Message | ||
     Rodney Peach Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 102 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi All, I am having a run on all my cars lately long time not used  went for a run and its like you have run out of fuel but has half tank you are cruising along and cuts out and seems worse going up a hill loss of power but on flat too if you keep foot to metal it does not cut out but no power hardly take foot off accelarator and cuts out so no steering etc , turn ignition off start again and runs again and pulls off fine again for a while then will do same in a few miles ! hope I have explained myself well ? has anybody had something like this ? I am not sure if its lack of fuel or electrical but electrical what not start and go again would it ? my spirit is the carburettor model so not so much electrics fuel wise ! Any advise please Regards to all Rodney | ||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 1868 Registered: 04-2009 |
Dear Rodney, There are many things it can be. However I had the exact same symptoms on my Wraith II and it turned out to be the floats in the carbs were breached. The ethanol in the fuel had attacked the floats and fuel entered into the floats by dissolving the seams. You will see that Burlen Fuel systems now sell floats that are solid - for this exact same reason. I am not saying that his is the solution to your problem - I am just putting it out there that I had a similar experience and mine ended up being the floats. | ||
| Rodney Peach Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 103 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi Omar , thanks for reply ! Yes I put them new type floats in my corniche and took brass ones out , will look into it . Thanks Rodney | ||
| Neville Davies Experienced User Username: nev_davies Post Number: 80 Registered: 09-2006 |
Rodney. Would suggest first quick easy check would be disconnect fuel line where it comes to engine On the offside of the engine by the air intake. Feed into 1 litre clean container and switch on ignition start motor. Should see a positive flow that does not decrease if it does you need to check filters in supply line.The motor will only run until the carbs empty.To try again refit supply pipe to fill carb bowls and repeat. Nev | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 629 Registered: 10-2008 |
Check the electric valves on the weakener and anti run on and the weakener set up. This was a PITA on my last carb Mulsanne. This used to give symptoms similar to your after about 1 mile from starting on a hot engine. After about 1/2 mile of zero power, the problem would then go away. Mark | ||
| Roderick Waite Frequent User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 230 Registered: 01-2012 |
Hello Mark - I had a problem with my '84 Spirit in that it wouldn't idle below 1000, and often simply died anyway. At traffic lights, for example, just stopped when pulling away. It took months and all kinds of people looking at it, new plugs and leads and coil, new fuel filters, nothing worked, but eventually we found that the weakener valve and the anti-run-on valve have identical plugs and are next door to each other - and some person unknown (not me Guv!) had swapped them over. That simple. Changed them back and she ran sweet as a nut. | ||
| Rodney Peach Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 104 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi Guys ! will check what you say Neville could fuel pump be on its way out too? fuel filter the little one on carburettor ? as mine is first of spirits 1980 , only my cars don't get used a lot and we moved this was longest time 2-3 years and could not start too often either but the one of last times I started her fuel all over the floor then it stopped I thought stuck float or needle and run again but never went out in her till the other day and started doing this , the anti run and weakner Mark and Roderick mention, I don't think I have swapped cables any way of knowing without going out in her which wires go to each normally I mark the them but cannot remember could they but stuck had one stuck on shadow 2 and sprayed 3 in 1 into each and after that better normally run rough if stuck no? I will have to check all perhaps . What gets to me though is you pull over put in P start again and alright for a few miles and again ? Thanks a lot to you All for help Rodney | ||
| Roderick Waite Frequent User Username: rodwaite Post Number: 231 Registered: 01-2012 |
Hi Rodney, no, there are two fuel filters in line of pipe tucked up underneath the skirt on the driver's side (RHD). Well worth a look! Disconnecting the fuel feed at the carbs and pumping into a can will prove the fuel pump (unlikely to be that). From what you say there could be a number of reasons - lack of use does bad things! I'd check the carbs (SU, I presume) have oil in the tubes. When you unscrew the cap it should resist being lifted. If it doesn't, a drop or two of engine oil (literally) put in may help. The pistons may get stuck and starve the engine of fuel, particularly if the bores dry out. When the engine stops they could drop back and then work normally for a bit, then jam again. Noy a long job to take the pots off and check the bores are clean with an oily feel. Not dry. | ||
| Jim Walters Frequent User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 266 Registered: 01-2014 |
A couple of quick, easy tests will help pinpoint the fault. First, pull off the float chamber vent hoses from the carbs, either at the carbs or at the weakener and anti run on valves. Test drive, if same symptoms they are OK and not the source of the fault. If it runs OK now, one of them is faulty. If the symptoms are the same with those hoses disconnected, hook up a test lamp to the coil positive terminal, and lay it on the wipers on the windscreen so you can see it while driving. It should be flashing quickly when the engine is running, this proves the ignition module is functioning and switching to fire the coil. Watch it carefully as the engine dies. If it stops flashing and THEN the engine quits, you have an electrical fault. Most likely ignition module. If it continues to flash as the engine dies then the module is OK and the fault is distributor rotor, coil, or fuel. Test coil by holding coil lead close to ground and crank engine over, spark should be bright blue and regular. Yellow or intermittent the coil is faulty. Test the rotor by removing the cap from the distributor, and removing the coil lead from the centre of the cap. Hold the coil lead about an eighth of an inch from the centre of the rotor, where the carbon brush normally rides. Have someone crank the engine over. If a spark jumps to the rotor it is dead shorted and faulty. If no spark to rotor start looking at fuel delivery and carbs. The symptoms you describe are usually faulty coil, rotor, or ignition module. Electrical faults are always more evident when the engine is under load as when accelerating up a hill or foot to the floor on the flat and can change characteristics with different engine temperatures. SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 2146 Registered: 06-2006 |
Hi, as above - fuel filters especially. You could also try pulling the wires off the two smaller oil switches and swapping them over. Just to make sure the pump cut out isn't kicking in. Good luck. |
