| Author | Message | ||
     michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 560 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi All My gauge reads low and want to change the sender. But it seems solid in the housing, how much force should I use to unscrew it? or any tips? Cheers Mike | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 451 Registered: 05-2016 |
Spray plenty of WD40 or similar and leave it to work for a few hours with the engine cold. If you can get a tight fitting ring spanner on it you could try giving the other end of the spanner a light tap with a hammer to shock it loose but proceed with caution as the sender is probably soft brass and the manifold is brittle. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 435 Registered: 11-2017 |
The common WD40 is not designed as a penetrating solution to loosen parts. It is designed as a water displacement product to keep things from sticking. They do make a product to penetrate "frozen" parts. PB Blaster is another product to do the same and there are others on the market as well. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3323 Registered: 04-2003 |
Michael, Years ago there was a product called "Penetrene" which was very good at freeing frozen threads however it is no longer available. Some contributors to this forum in the past have suggested a 50%/50% mix of clean SAE30 engine oil and auto transmission fluid will act in a similar way if left for 24 hours before attempting to undo. I have not used this so cannot vouch for the accuracy however it does seem logical as the low viscosity ATF will "wick" into the threads by capillary action and carry some oil with it to lubricate the threads to ease undoing. | ||
| Kelly Opfar Prolific User Username: kelly_opfar Post Number: 236 Registered: 07-2004 |
David, it was our very own Ross K. who mentioned an acetone/ATF combo in this thread: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/21719.html Kelly BritishToolWorks.com | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3324 Registered: 04-2003 |
Thanks Kelly, I remembered the oil/ATF mix but not the acetone/ATF mix; both should do the job. | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 562 Registered: 07-2015 |
Thanks guys I'll try some atf on it and let it soak. I've had a socket and torque wrench on it but frightened to use to much force how much is safe? Cheers Mike | ||
| Mark Aldridge Grand Master Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 613 Registered: 10-2008 |
Mike I always use ATF/ Acetone, but don't spill on paintwork. I f necessary bring engine to working temp, shut off and then soak thread whist it cools down. Worked recently on a Triumph manifold where in the distant past someone had used steel nuts bolts and spring washers to hold the downpipe on . | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2854 Registered: 06-2009 |
Personally, I have never found the ATF/Acetone combo to work well *except* for when one can actually soak parts in a bath of it. Though I imagine if you could wrap a small rag or piece of paper toweling it might work. The acetone is just so volatile that it tends to disappear in the open air very quickly and it also seems to be the "creep inducing" part of this mix. I would be far more inclined to pick up a can of PB Blaster, Kano Aerokroil, or any of a number of similar products whose purpose is to creep into frozen threads to allow them to be loosened. Even then, applying liberally and allowing to soak in, sometimes several times, will be required. Brian | ||
| Thomas J. Bueld New User Username: thomas_j_bueld Post Number: 7 Registered: 04-2019 |
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YeTNXbDbHcM | ||
| Mark Aldridge Grand Master Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 614 Registered: 10-2008 |
When all else fails, a touch with the Oxy /acetylene, still is the most effective on seized bolts.However not near flammables and extreme care near aluminium, and never if there is a possibility of Magnesium alloys present, as on many pre war car gearbox and crankcase. Mark |
