Author |
Message |
Maxwell Heazlewood
Experienced User Username: tasbent
Post Number: 29 Registered: 9-2017
| Posted on Friday, 06 October, 2017 - 20:47: | |
Whell Chaps...this what greeted us when we started stripping the door furniture. This is what it looked like when we discovered there was a whole lotta whirrin; goin' on and no action. Maxwell, a hint to keep multiple images separated and displayed down instead of across the page as above is to use the "Enter" key twice before inserting the first image and twice between each subsequent image. David |
Darryl Watson
Experienced User Username: inox
Post Number: 32 Registered: 4-2015
| Posted on Saturday, 07 October, 2017 - 04:53: | |
Hi Maxwell, The good news is that the couplings is still available. About £25:00 (GBP) for a set of four in the UK Regards |
Maxwell Heazlewood
Experienced User Username: tasbent
Post Number: 33 Registered: 9-2017
| Posted on Saturday, 07 October, 2017 - 12:06: | |
Thanks for the worthy tip David....duly noted. As for the couplings they, plus a few other bits are now winging there way to Oz as we speak. |
Michael Taylor
Yet to post message Username: jordy
Post Number: 1 Registered: 2-2013
| Posted on Wednesday, 11 October, 2017 - 09:03: | |
Hello Maxwell, It is prudent to 'test' fit the rubber couplings..... as they are "indexed " to fit in a particular manner , Mr. Yorke is able to explain much more clearly than I , Regards |
Maxwell Heazlewood
Experienced User Username: tasbent
Post Number: 41 Registered: 9-2017
| Posted on Wednesday, 11 October, 2017 - 23:22: | |
Michael....thanks very much for a timely tip ;o)) At this time the window is in the fully closed position and the gear wheel has a 'D' in the centre which should make putting everything back together relatively easy, I hope. We're still awaiting parts from FS. |
Maxwell Heazlewood
Frequent User Username: tasbent
Post Number: 77 Registered: 9-2017
| Posted on Wednesday, 18 October, 2017 - 23:43: | |
Gentlemen...a question if I may. Regards the window regulator motors...later square body type....is there supposed to be a shaped plastic cover that goes over these? |
Darryl Watson
Experienced User Username: inox
Post Number: 35 Registered: 4-2015
| Posted on Thursday, 19 October, 2017 - 01:23: | |
Hi, from memory when I did the fronts earlier this year there is a plastic/polythene sheet folded over the top of the motor. The "white" nylon gear has to to be fitted the same way that it comes out. The coupling has one aperture deeper than the other. Can't remember which end goes onto the motor but it's obvious if it isn't the correct way round. Hope this helps Darryl |
Maxwell Heazlewood
Frequent User Username: tasbent
Post Number: 78 Registered: 9-2017
| Posted on Thursday, 19 October, 2017 - 12:49: | |
Hey Darryl...thanks for that, I was figuring it would be something like that. Hell, you could make abetter one from a plastic juice bottle...right shape, just need trimming down and anchoring with a couple of spots of silicon....although really, I hardly think it would be necessary as very little water gets past the window seal and a cover could end up creating more problems with condensation than if it was left exposed....what do think? |
Maxwell Heazlewood
Frequent User Username: tasbent
Post Number: 80 Registered: 9-2017
| Posted on Thursday, 19 October, 2017 - 12:55: | |
>>>>>......The "white" nylon gear has to to be fitted the same way that it comes out. The coupling has one aperture deeper than the other. Can't remember which end goes onto the motor but it's obvious if it isn't the correct way round. Hope this helps Darryl.......>>>>> Darryl thanks for the advice about the wheel and connector....the wheel/cog had a metal insert in it with a slotted part that goes onto the chain drive in only one way....and as we haven't moved the window from the closed position, should slot straight on. Interesting to know about the plastic connector....we'll sort it. All we gotta do now is wait for the bloody parts to arrive....I think FS must use Biggles and his Sopwith for delivery! |
Darryl Watson
Experienced User Username: inox
Post Number: 36 Registered: 4-2015
| Posted on Thursday, 19 October, 2017 - 17:32: | |
Biggles? Now you are showing your age. |
Maxwell Heazlewood
Frequent User Username: tasbent
Post Number: 81 Registered: 9-2017
| Posted on Thursday, 19 October, 2017 - 17:39: | |
Hahahaaa....and proud of it! |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1915 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Thursday, 19 October, 2017 - 18:28: | |
The motor can be removed with the gearbox unitetc left in the door. Pick out all the old coupling. Spray grease inside the gearbox. A few times to build up a good quantity. The door is made to have water running through it so a soft plastic cover is advised. Also make sure the door membrane is complete and stuck - especially at the bottom - or the door pads will get wet. Lubricate everything. Especially the little rubber block on the rod between the interior door pull lever and the lock. So annoying when it starts to squeak ;) Have fun :D |
Maxwell Heazlewood
Frequent User Username: tasbent
Post Number: 82 Registered: 9-2017
| Posted on Thursday, 19 October, 2017 - 20:02: | |
Paul, thanks for the advice....all taken on board and will be dealt with. I use both marine grease and CRC White Lithium spray grease which has the ability to get right into bearing areas where normal grease won't. Also good for lubing chains. The door shell plastic membranes are undamaged and will be back in situ after all the speakers are replaced and also some Dynamat applied to door shell.....hell the car won't know itself by the time we're finished |