| Author | Message | ||
     David Towers Prolific User Username: xtriple Post Number: 146 Registered: 6-2010 |
Is there a known alternative for the viscous coupling on the late cars? I'm 'pretty' sure that mine is faulty (which by my usual standard means it's actually fine and my OCD is at it again) and I do not feel like spending the considerable dough that the genuine ones cost. Chassis no 66221 | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 315 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi David Why do you think it's faulty? overheating? noisy? overcooling? Mike | ||
| David Towers Prolific User Username: xtriple Post Number: 147 Registered: 6-2010 |
Hi Mike, my car runs 'hot' and has done ever since it had a new thermostat/sensors fitted. However, once or twice last year when it was hot (i.e. not raining or otherwise being typically English)the engine ran at what I consider to be the correct point on the gauge and for the first time ever, I could hear the fan whooshing. It has never over-heated but I worry! | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 316 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi David My temperature gauge reads a little low, so to check I used a laser thermometer shown on the housing of a hot engine, think it was about 90c so no worries just a low reading gauge. You could try that OK Mike | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 1187 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear David I have 2 96 model cars and both of them show different temperatures on the gauge. I think the gauges are problem. The first 96 i had ran at between 30 to 40% of the range of the gauge. I liked that. It looked correct. The second one joined the fleet and that ran at 50 to 55% of the range of the gauge. I was miffed. So i bought a new thermostat and new temperature sensor from Mr Yorke. The parts are good parts but the gauge still shows 50 to 55%. The car runs fine at that indication. I have put it down to the gauge. I removed the temperature gauge from my scrap 91 model car and looked at the flimsy construction. Did you know that although they look expensive they are actually cheap and nasty plastic units? If you ever remove one handle it with care in case it breaks as you take it out. If I was OCD enough I would swap the gauges to see what happens. Incidentally, there is a difference between the two cars. The low reading car has a standard radiator from day 1 and the high reading car has a bespoke all aluminium radiator which is supposed to be better than the factory original. Both cars have the same viscous couplings from a land rover fitted to them because i live somewhere very hot and cooling trumps silence for my application. The land rover ones are really cheap too. | ||
| David Towers Prolific User Username: xtriple Post Number: 148 Registered: 6-2010 |
Interesting. Mine was checked with an infra red jobby and showed 92 degrees. I suppose it is just the gauge then that bothers me, interestingly, it reads higher if the lights are on! This I suppose points to the voltage stabiliser... British electrics, finally we rival the Italians in something  | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 317 Registered: 7-2015 |
Quote "British electrics, finally we rival the Italians in something" Haha I'm just reading a book about RR and they were having problems with lucas magnetos and found competitors were using CAV magnetos with no problems , so lucas bought CAV lol I'm sure it is just the gauge David no need to worry Might be worth checking the earth point though as yours reads higher with light on. Mike | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2289 Registered: 6-2009 |
I am about to commit two acts of heresy, both predicated on having done temperature checks with an IR thermometer to verify that the car is, indeed, running within normal limits with regard to temperature: 1. Get over worrying about what your temperature gauge shows if what is shows is consistent and is "lower than typical settled" when the car is cold and goes "higher than typical settled" if you're running under atypically hot and/or load stressed conditions. These are not precision instruments (either sensor/sender or gauge) and some variability is to be expected. 2. Realize that the thermostat opening temperature is not the temperature at which any car will settle out and keep as constant. The thermostat opens well before complete heat soak can occur and your temperature will continue to rise afterward, and by a not insignificant amount. If you reach a stable temperature that's well below the boiling point of a 50/50 coolant/water mix in a pressurized system the car is still being cooled, and adequately. I have come to understand why the vast majority of car makers have either eliminated true temperature gauges (in favor of those that come to rest in dead center provided the operating temperature is WNL - see http://www.thejagwrangler.com/realgauge-faq.html) or "idiot lights." While both Jaguar and Crewe both seem to have set their warning buzzers such that they don't give warning, but are death knells, that's a design flaw that can be overcome. If you've got a real temperature gauge with fairly wide area of travel for WNL you have to get used to the idea that there are situations where the upper end of that range will be reached and it's not necessarily cause for alarm. You need to have measured, via an IR thermometer, what the actual temperatures are when the gauge in that particular car is at a given point and thereafter let that be your guide. I would be shocked if my own temperature gauge in my Shadow II would not be most of the way up to nearly the top of the "white WNL range" were I to be tooling along in Death Valley or up Pike's Peak on a hot day with the AC at full blast or to hit stop and go traffic on a very hot day where I've been tooling along with the AC running and I now have far less ram air supply. The latter has actually occurred. There seems to be this desire to panic at the slightest variation in a real temperature gauge and swings as demands change under relatively demanding operating conditions. This way lies madness. Brian | ||
| David Towers Prolific User Username: xtriple Post Number: 149 Registered: 6-2010 |
Thanks Brian, this is why I love this forum, knowledge and politeness to idiots (me). Yes, my little Mazda has an oil pressure gauge and temp gauge that are both 'liars' in so much as they are effectively 'glorified Idiot lights' as they always sit in the same position regardless. I didn't like it to begin with, but now I do as I don't worry... I am really good at worrying! However, with all the words above, I shall cease and desist fretting and do more driving. If it goes 'Boom!' then I shall blame you all | ||
| John Kilkenny Prolific User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 262 Registered: 6-2005 |
David, The reason that the temperature and oil pressure gauges on your Mazda sit in the middle or the range is not that the gauges are faulty but that modern car engines are well designed and built, so can easily maintain optimum coolant temperature and oil pressure over a considerable range of operating conditions. So you don't need to worry so long as you maintain the coolant fluid and oil levels ! |
