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Larry Halpert
Prolific User
Username: larry_halpert

Post Number: 171
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Monday, 13 March, 2017 - 13:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I took down my center console with the lighter on my 1989 Silver Spur and put in a new socket. It was fiddly getting under the radio and pushing aside the wires. Put it all back together, and now I have a working lighter socket, and hazard/seat belt lights in their holders.

But, I also don't have panel lights now. (Aside from this, the car needs a battery which has been dying, and in driving the car after this job, the charge meter couldn't get up to 13 volts with the lights on, so I drove right home. It now only retained 11.5 volts overnight.)

As for the panel lights, I reached back and was touching the two red wires on that one side of the dimmer module behind the fuse panel, and just doing that caused the ICE fuse to blow, taking out my clock, radio, etc. I replaced the fuse, and got those back.

So, I ordered a dimmer module. The plugs are hanging there, but I lost track of them and don't know exactly how they plug in.

The wiring manual shows connections A,B,C,D,E, but doesn't show which connector on the actual unit is which.

I've attached a photo of the one I'm getting. Can anyone help me in which color wire connects to each connector?

Thanks,

Larry

PS, I still don't know if this will even get me my panel lights back...

UD22451

*
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1754
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 13 March, 2017 - 17:09:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Panel light fuse?
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Larry Halpert
Prolific User
Username: larry_halpert

Post Number: 172
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Monday, 13 March, 2017 - 20:00:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The ICE Panel Lamps B1 fuse in the left bank of fuses is the one I was talking about. It was fine when I first found out I lost my panel lamps, then I blew it and lost my digital clock lights and radio. Replaced it and got them back, but still no panel lights.

The B4 Instruments/Warning Lamps fuse was and is still fine.

Is there another fuse I am not aware of?

Thanks,

- Larry
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Larry Halpert
Prolific User
Username: larry_halpert

Post Number: 173
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Thursday, 16 March, 2017 - 09:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Well, after I found out the correct wiring, with the ignition in the RUN position and lights on, I get power to the red w/white stripe wire connector on the module.

The car's red w/white stripe wire should go to the panel lights on the dash. So if I plug the wire TO the connector on the module, I should get lights.

I don't. It seems to be shorting somewhere, and the module gets warm. Yet, the fuse didn't blow.

I took down the center console again, and saw nothing touching ground, and unplugged the big plug there that had a red w/ white wire in it - still a short.

Also, I connected a multimeter to the red w/white stripe wire on the car, and to ground, and I get 2.5 ohms, so not as bad a short as 0 ohms?.

I have no idea how to find this short and I touched none of the wiring between there and the module, anyway. Why suddenly a short?

My only other choice is to never drive the car in the dark.

Any ideas rather than bypassing this thread?

Thanks,

- Larry
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michael vass
Prolific User
Username: mikebentleyturbo2

Post Number: 281
Registered: 7-2015
Posted on Thursday, 16 March, 2017 - 18:34:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Larry
I will attach a piture of the wiring for you.
This unit has to supply about 80 watts so it will get warm, try supplying to r/w wire with a supply through a headlamp bulb , if it lights fully you have a short if oit light half then you should see you panel light half too ( hard to see in daylight ok)
Mike
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michael vass
Prolific User
Username: mikebentleyturbo2

Post Number: 282
Registered: 7-2015
Posted on Thursday, 16 March, 2017 - 18:40:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Larry have reposted picture hope you can read the letters
Mike
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Larry Halpert
Prolific User
Username: larry_halpert

Post Number: 174
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Thursday, 16 March, 2017 - 19:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply. I have that diagram in HD as I have manuals available on my website.
The problem is that ABCDE diagram doesn't coincide with the actual module connector positions.

Finally, I found out the correct connections on the module as someone I contacted generously emailed me the answers.

So, if I take a battery charger, and put the black clip on a car ground, and the red clip on one connector of headlight bulb, and the car's red/white wire on the other headlight bulb connector - I can check for a short the way you describe?

I will try this if you say I'm correct, and then post the results.

- Larry
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michael vass
Prolific User
Username: mikebentleyturbo2

Post Number: 283
Registered: 7-2015
Posted on Thursday, 16 March, 2017 - 19:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Larry
I would use a battery has some charges will only output when connected ok, but if your charger (5A+)will light the bulb(try first) then yes.
Good luck
Mike
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Larry Halpert
Prolific User
Username: larry_halpert

Post Number: 175
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Thursday, 16 March, 2017 - 19:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Its a 10 amp charger with a 50 amp start setting. Obviously, I'll use the 10 amp charging setting. :-)

Thanks again,

- Larry
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Larry Halpert
Prolific User
Username: larry_halpert

Post Number: 176
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Friday, 17 March, 2017 - 15:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

OK. I tried the headlamp test, and got the dim headlight with panel lights. Even the light in the lighter that I replaced, worked. So, it seems no short - though I also got a green light below the ignition key. I forget what this indicates.

I am hoping that even though the stereo worked, and so did the headlights when I noticed I didn't have panel lights - the problem might still be attributable to my battery dying.

I'll test this when I'm able to get a new battery and hope that I didn't ruin the alternator or regulator by running the car with the dying battery.

Mike - thanks again for your help.

- Larry
PS: Now that I have the wood off the dash again, I can also remember to connect the two digital outside temp gauge wires so it defaults to Fahrenheit.. :-)
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michael vass
Prolific User
Username: mikebentleyturbo2

Post Number: 284
Registered: 7-2015
Posted on Friday, 17 March, 2017 - 19:12:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Glad I could help , multimeters are great but can throw you sometimes.
Best wishes
mike
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Larry Halpert
Prolific User
Username: larry_halpert

Post Number: 177
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Saturday, 18 March, 2017 - 10:26:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

And, the "green" light below the ignition switch is, of course, one of the panel lights with the blue condom. In looking closer, I see that the left one is not even there. So, I'll replace that.

- Larry
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Larry Halpert
Prolific User
Username: larry_halpert

Post Number: 178
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Sunday, 02 April, 2017 - 12:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

OK, just to finish up, even though I know you're supposed to never post how a problem was finally solved, and leave everyone hanging.

I finally was able to afford a new battery, and now my panel lights and warning lights work as they should, with the wires connected correctly to the module.

It is a mystery to me why those went out with the bad battery, but other stuff ran off what must have been just the alternator.

Thanks to all who helped solve my problem.

- Larry
Rolls Substitute Parts

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