| Author | Message | |||
     Patrick Hunziker New User Username: pahu Post Number: 4 Registered: 7-2016 |
Following the Thread in "idle chatter" i start a new thread in the correct topic about the reanimation of my Turbo S. After fitting of the new battery, the engine is running fine. The break test shows breake pressure warning after around 10-12 pumps (thats why i ordered the Spheres). There is a Fluid-leak approx in the middle of the car (LHM+), i haven't startet to have a look undeneath the car so no info about the location of the leak (have to get a auto lift with enough capacity first, already made a deal with a friend of mine who ows a workshop. I buy the lift and he helps me with the reanimation of the Turbo S and the Jaguar MK2. Lift will be delivered next week). patrick | |||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 332 Registered: 4-2016 |
Sounds like a good deal Patrick. Keep us posted with your findings. | |||
| Patrick Hunziker New User Username: pahu Post Number: 5 Registered: 7-2016 |
First test with OBD-Cable today. Gearbox is detected ECM not detected... possibly the problem is, that the ECM of the Turbo S was the first Zytec ECM and maybe there was no OBD-compliant protocol... I will first have a look at my cable and then try again... | |||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 567 Registered: 2-2013 |
Great going Patrick - its good to see somebody making the effort to get these cars back on the road rather than rewarding and encouraging our Asian friends to produce more disposable transport. Once up and running I would be checking all the oil seals for any deterioration/leakage.Also check the tell tale coolant holes on each side of the block for any leakage. Another thing you can do is fit a high quality battery isolation switch to shut down the electrical power if you get a fire starting short circuit anywhere and have a fire extinguisher handy. | |||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 568 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi MR Hunziker welcome!! I would be interested in seeing how your OBD trials fair out and also what kind of vehicle lift that you have purchased I also am waiting on a lift that I purchased yesterday mine is a three ton heavy duty scissor lift hope its up to the task. Richard. | |||
| Patrick Hunziker New User Username: pahu Post Number: 6 Registered: 7-2016 |
Today test of my OBD-cable with a 1996 AZURE. On the Azure the ECU's of the Gearbox and Engine are found. Protocoll of the Engine ECU is shown as OBD 1. Unfortunately now fault codes recorded... The hunt continues... | |||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 734 Registered: 4-2009 |
I am no good with OBD stuff but if i can help I am happy to do so. Just tell me what to do and I will do it. Luckily I have both a 96 Continental R and a 96 Azure to help you compare data. Thanks Omar | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2034 Registered: 6-2009 |
Patrick, What was the original delivery destination for your car? Whether or not it had an OBD-II port installed from the factory, the system as a whole for the engine ECU and transmission ECU should be able to be queried. I do know that certain code readers can be cranky with our cars. I use an Innova 3130 but a friend who tried this model with his Seraph could not get it to communicate correctly. I believe he eventually found a code reader that would, but I can't recall what it is. I can ask if you'd like. The vast majority of OBD codes that most of us will encounter, on any car, are those that are part of the main OBD-II spec itself, not vendor specific codes. I can't recall the last time I've had anything that wasn't a P code (powertrain code) on any car. Brian | |||
| Patrick Hunziker New User Username: pahu Post Number: 7 Registered: 7-2016 |
The delivery destination was Switzerland. No OBD II Port fitted... My birthday will be soon... maybe someone will wrap an omicheck as a present for me... then it will be easier to know if the non-communication is an error or due to the special ECM of the Turbo S... | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2036 Registered: 6-2009 |
Patrick, Would you mind providing the VIN or SZ Chassis Number Derivation from VIN for the vehicle in question? I presume you're talking your Turbo S here, but this is helpful information to have when trying to give answers or look something up in IETIS or other reference material for any of these cars. That would include the Azure as well if you're discussing it. Brian | |||
| Patrick Hunziker New User Username: pahu Post Number: 8 Registered: 7-2016 |
Hi Brian The VIN is SCBZT05COSCX56837 I will edit this Post in the next days and remove the VIN... | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2041 Registered: 6-2009 |
Patrick, You won't be able to edit the post after about 10 minutes or so, if I recall the limit correctly. Honestly, there's no need to, either, as there's nothing about a VIN that's personally identifiable or deals with the current location of a car. The shorthand chassis number, derived from the VIN, for that car is TBS-56837, and other than the Turbo S it's only Phantom Landaulettes that would have a T as the first character of their derived chassis number. Since the 10th character is an 'S' this indicates the 1995 model year, which is one year ahead of the OBD-II specification's broad adoption, which explains why your car shows as OBD-I. Brian | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2143 Registered: 4-2003 |
Patrick, I can edit your post at any time to render the VIN unintelligible if this is your wish - just send me a PM or post a request which I will implement and delete your request. David | |||
| Patrick Hunziker New User Username: pahu Post Number: 9 Registered: 7-2016 |
Yesterday first Drive an Check of the car... The following isssues have been found: - Rear brake-calipper left wet - Hydraulik-connection to rear dampers wet - Oil-Seal Diff-Input leaking - Left damper axle-crossmember wet - Distrubution-Valves leaking - Steering-Rack leaking - Oil-Hose Filter-Oil-Cooler wet        | |||
| Patrick Hunziker New User Username: pahu Post Number: 10 Registered: 7-2016 |
I calculated more defects... | |||
| Patrick Hunziker Experienced User Username: pahu Post Number: 11 Registered: 7-2016 |
The post with the pictures is not very nice... forgot the line-breaks... sorry | |||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 572 Registered: 2-2013 |
Patrick if those brake lines in your photo are heavily corroded and indented from rust then you should replace them with new pipes. I don't know if the swiss put salt on the road in winter but the rusting of brake pipes from the outside in appears common in countries with winter snow. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2144 Registered: 4-2003 |
Patrick, Have fixed the photo arrangement for you - not a problem. Re the distribution valves - these do not have seals and rely on extremely close tolerances for controlling fluid leaks as per normal hydraulic system practice. A small amount of leakage must occur to keep the valve components lubricated and a drop of fluid below the valves will always be present as a consequence of this and is confirmation that the adequate lubrication is occurring when the car is being driven. A puddle of fluid under the "rat trap" when the car is left standing unused for a week or more is a warning of possible excessive wear in the valve body. The drips shown in your photo appear normal to me. | |||
| Patrick Hunziker Experienced User Username: pahu Post Number: 12 Registered: 7-2016 |
Vladimir The brake lines in the picture will be replaced. My question was according the high-pressure lines in front of the car (UR71620).  And yes, there is a lot of salt on the streets in winter, thats because we don't life down-under and we are freezing our asses of for approx 3 months of the year  David Thank you very much for the arrangement of the fotos! in the TSD i found a drawing of the valves. it looks like there is a sealing-washer (UR16075) under the Bolt. as it looks, thats the area where it's leaking...  | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2044 Registered: 6-2009 |
Patrick, If you're going to replace hard brake lines then do it with cunifer brake line, not mild steel. It's much easier to work with and does not corrode so you won't be having to do it again. As to the high pressure lines it is very likely that you can have these made up by a shop that does custom brake hoses. I say "very likely" because your system uses HSMO/LHM and you have to find someone who makes hoses that are compatible with that fluid. Of course, since many these days have PTFE carrier tubes they are compatible with any fluid since PTFE is inert and the fluid itself will not come in contact with any other component of the hose itself. Brian | |||
| Patrick Hunziker Experienced User Username: pahu Post Number: 14 Registered: 7-2016 |
Update on progress so far: - Steering Rack sent to IntroCar for overhaul - Cooling System flushed and refilled - Engine Oil and Filter changed - ATF changed (twice to get as much of the old oil out as possible, but ATF was like new) - Filter in Gearbox changed - Brake Hoses Front and Rear changed - Accumulators front changed - Hydraulik System bleeded and cleaned out the reservoirs - Brake callipers rear dismounted and cleaned (ready for the new gaskets) Next steps are: - Change Pinion Seal Diff-Input - Change rear Accumulators - Change high pressure hoses - Finish overhaul of Brake callipers - Mount Brake callipers - Change Dampers crossmember - Fill hydraulik System - Mount steering rack - get out of the workshop and burn rubber  Kepp you updated... | |||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 642 Registered: 4-2012 |
Patrick How is the work on your car progressing would be interested to hear about your progress. Richard. | |||
| Patrick Hunziker Experienced User Username: pahu Post Number: 15 Registered: 7-2016 |
Hi all The car is ready for MFK (this is the swiss version of MOT or TÜV or whatever it's called abroad). All the steps as mentioned above are done. One of the problems was, that the 18" wheels are an tne car. These Wheels are not type-tested in Switzerland. So last friday i had an expertise done for the wheels (cost me a fortune of CHF 2000.- !!!!) but cheaper than buing a set of 17" Wheels... Now i'm waiting for the document of the expertise. As soon as the MFK is done i will post again. I will make a table with all the costs spent for the reanimation (just for my own fun)... Patrick | |||
| Patrick Hunziker Experienced User Username: pahu Post Number: 16 Registered: 7-2016 |
Today was the Day... MFK passed...The first try was not very succesfull... one front Damper was not working... So i had to change the Damper and give it another try... Attached you find a list with all the costs of the Reanimation listed...
The Budget was Approx EUR 7'000.- for all the works and Parts. As you can see there is a little offset between Budget and Reality... The following Positions haven't been planed: WT10240 Diagnostic Scan TOOL 2'622.50 approval certificate / expertise for 18" Wheels on Turbo S 1'900.00 UR71817SX-R ASSY STRG RACK LH BENTLEY Reconditioned 466.86 UV31538PA VARIABLE DAMPER FRONT Original Equipment 1'173.25 If i substract theese Positions from the Total, my Budget was spot-on  Now i have to get on the Road... Patrick | |||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Prolific User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 159 Registered: 9-2013 |
Patrick, Your workshop rental cost comes out pretty high at 3000EUR. You could habe bought yourself a nice scissor-type lift. That's a wife-friendly device which fits in every garage. Did you ever consider? | |||
| Patrick Hunziker Experienced User Username: pahu Post Number: 17 Registered: 7-2016 |
Yes i did... i have a two-post lift at home... but in the rental cost is the labour of a friend of mine included (owner of the workshop)... because i never worked on a Bentley / RR i thought it's better to have two set of eyes present... At home i'm currently working on a Jaguar MK2... Patrick | |||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 657 Registered: 4-2012 |
Patrick that's great that your car is finished and has passed its road worthy test. Now its time to enjoy!!!! Richard. | |||
| Patrick Hunziker New User Username: pahu Post Number: 44 Registered: 07-2016 |
3 years later.... I had the following things done: - Drove approx 12000km - changed the head gaskets - MFK (MOT) - change some rubber Parts upper compliance arms - used lots of Fuel Things to be done: - find the source of the annoying vibrations between 110 and 130km/h - Change Speakers in front Doors - fit interior parts correctly (some are like twisted) Was a little bit under pressure from work and building my new house... but next year there will be lots of time to get the things finally done  | |||
| richard george yeaman Prolific User Username: richyrich Post Number: 1126 Registered: 04-2012 |
Patrick thanks for the update, Three years almost to a day, don't wait another three years it would be nice to hear about your new house in Idler chatter. Richard. |
