Author |
Message |
Brian Vogel
Grand Master Username: guyslp
Post Number: 1827 Registered: 6-2009
| Posted on Friday, 29 January, 2016 - 13:37: | |
Hello All, One feature of the SY switchbox that was not well documented was the fact that pulling out on the main light control knob/grip turned on the interior lights. I know that this feature carried over to the SZ cars, or at least the some of them. It appears that this longstanding feature was eliminated at some point during the SZ run. Does anyone know at what model year/chassis number? Also, once it was eliminated what replaced it to allow the driver to turn on all the interior illumination when the car doors are closed? Brian |
michael vass
Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2
Post Number: 78 Registered: 7-2015
| Posted on Friday, 29 January, 2016 - 23:56: | |
Hi Brian Mine is a late '89 20,000 series and has this switch, just lookes at a '90 30,000 and it does not so I'm guessing it was eliminated at end of 20,000 cars ok Mike |
Roderick Waite
Prolific User Username: rodwaite
Post Number: 153 Registered: 1-2012
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 01:23: | |
Hello Brian, on my '84 Spirit (09680) pulling out the main light switch only operates the driver's map light. There is a switch to the left of the glove box that operates the left hand side map light (RHD). Both rears have rocker switches under the quarter mirrors that operate either the map light or the interior light. So far as I know there is no way to light all the interior lights without opening a door. Rod '84 Spirit |
Brian Vogel
Grand Master Username: guyslp
Post Number: 1828 Registered: 6-2009
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 04:51: | |
Thanks Gentlemen. I do believe I misspoke when I said "all interior lights" but it seemed to me that the driver's side knob pull lit more than the map light on the driver's side, but it probably doesn't. The flip switch on the passenger side is definitely passenger map light only, and the rear rocker switches light the vanity mirror lights. I'm glad to know that 1990 appears to be the model year this shifted as far as the pull-out function of the main light switch causing the driver's map light to illuminate. I'm trying to assist someone with a 1990 Bentley Eight that has interior lights that don't go out when the doors are closed. I thought there might be some other reason for this than a bad light delay timer relay and the first thing that came to mind is that there might be an "ill-documented and easy-to-activate-unintentionally" control to turn them all on. Brian |
Mark Aldridge
Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge
Post Number: 276 Registered: 10-2008
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 05:28: | |
On the 20000 series cars the switchbox operates all of the interior lights. prior to this only the drivers maplight operates. I have rewired my 1983 Mulsanne so that all of the interior lights work off the pull switch. Brian, check the door switches, I had one disintegrate and the interior lights would not switch off. The switches are in the door locks . On pre 20000 series cars they are the same as BL brake light switches ! Mark |
Brian Vogel
Grand Master Username: guyslp
Post Number: 1829 Registered: 6-2009
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 05:35: | |
Mark, Thanks very much. This leads to a follow-up question: When did Crewe move away from the long-conventional pillar mounted switches that turn the lights off when pushed in (are opened)when the door closes and turn them on when they pop out (are closed) when the door opens. I think the early SZ cars still used these, and I'm familiar with the style you refer to, but don't know when those were introduced. This is one of those changes that truly mystifies me, because it is both more complicated and trouble prone than the pillar switches. Brian |
michael vass
Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2
Post Number: 79 Registered: 7-2015
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 09:01: | |
Hi Brian I'm trying to sort out Grahom's lights too (he lives just a coupe of miles from me)and it does seem to be a door switch fault ,but such a pain to fault find , seems like taking off every door card until the faulty one is found,does anybody know a quicker /easier/ better way? Cheers Mike |
Brian Vogel
Grand Master Username: guyslp
Post Number: 1830 Registered: 6-2009
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 09:57: | |
Michael, Take a look at the photo in Tee-One Topics, Issue 45 of the switch and wires associated with it. If you can piece together "what's going where" based on the wiring diagram you should be able to determine a test point for each switch that's completely remote from any one of those four switches and, with any luck, is reasonably easily accessible. Brian |
michael vass
Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2
Post Number: 81 Registered: 7-2015
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 19:39: | |
Hi Brian Thanks for the info , yes thats one of the door switches (why 3 wires?) , the central splice ((13) item15)is not shown on the component diagram ,so I guess it's in the loom somwhere unaccesable doh! I'll have a better go when it's warmer here 1C at mo brr lol. Incidentally that picture shows the lock lickage I had all the trouble refitting, top left pointing toward you. Thanks again Mike |
John Kilkenny
Prolific User Username: john_kilkenny
Post Number: 230 Registered: 6-2005
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 22:35: | |
Here is the circuit for the Shadow 2 which is probably very similar.. Because the door switches are interconnected it will be necessary to do some wire tracing to a point where they can be separated before taking doors apart. However before doing that Check the voltage at Point A. If positive one of the door switches is closed, otherwise the delay circuit or relay is faulty.
|
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 1448 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Saturday, 30 January, 2016 - 23:45: | |
Here's a little cheat for you which may or may not work . . but well worth a try. Most SZ 1 models have the puddle light connected up directly to the switch circuit. ie not timed. So they go on when a catch is open and off immediately the catch is closed. Here's the cheat . . they usually get very marginally brighter if more catches are opened. It's usually slight and barely noticeable. Close the doors or move all the catches to closed. Open and close each catch repeatedly and the lights under the arm rest should vary slightly in brightness. Do every catch. If one does not vary the brightness, that will be the one to attack first. (try with the main beam on as well) Brian, SZ went straight into moving the switch from the door post. The switch on the catch now registers if a door catch is not latched fully, instead of a door being open wide enough to release the switch. |
michael vass
Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2
Post Number: 82 Registered: 7-2015
| Posted on Sunday, 31 January, 2016 - 01:01: | |
thanks Paul I'll try that |
michael vass
Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2
Post Number: 83 Registered: 7-2015
| Posted on Sunday, 31 January, 2016 - 03:09: | |
Hi All Well had another look at Grahams eight today and there is a relay (6) which is called door switch , this is not shown in the wiring diagram all very strange. I tried what Paul suggested but there was no visible diffrence open or closed on any door. I disconnected the delay relay and all the lights went off , I just forgot to check the incomming to the relay ,ah well will try that next time. When I have thawed out lol Cheers Mike |