| Author | Message | ||
     richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 450 Registered: 4-2012 |
I had my Turbo R jacked up the other day and was dismayed to see that one side of the steering rack was very damp at the offside rubber seal I have read elsewhere about the problems encountered by others and was wondering has there been any developments by the way of replacements I noticed that Flying Spares have replacement ones but with the usual added expense of returns etc the other end of the matter is to refurbish your own unit has anyone done anything along these lines lately. Richard. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Frequent User Username: triumph Post Number: 99 Registered: 7-2012 |
Lots of them are "wet" around this area. The first thing is make level (not too high, as pas oil really expands when hot) and monitor it for loss. Cars have damp area for years. there are additives on market to rejuvenate seals in pas rack to make them more compliant as they go hard with age and heat. It is worth adding, will not work if rack is leaking to point dropping fluid all the time, but in your case I would put some in. | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 77 Registered: 7-2015 |
I'm sure I've read on here that you can replace the thin pink stuff with thicker lhm , might worth a try rather than replace rack. Maybe someone can clarify this? Mike | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 844 Registered: 5-2015 |
LHM is an ideal fluid for pas systems. Dexron has additives that modify friction. These additives are only necessary for the friction material used on bands and clutch plates in auto boxes. There are no such bits in power steering. Castrol do a pas specific oil. British Leyland used the same pas pump but used engine oil for fluid. So LHM although being slightly thicker will be fine because 20/50 is even thicker. I think LHM is about 15 weight. Also as oils warm up they get thinner (obviously) but also the difference in viscosity narrows. Don't forget to check out the pas cooler and pipe work. None of the bits are expensive if made from copper piping. The cooler is on the low nominal pressure return from rack to pump and therefore quality hose clips and suitable rubber hoses from auto box guys. Auto box guys also will have the metal pipes and fittings. My cooler has u pipes and fins. It was full of dead bugs and slime. It's 40 years old and in sound condition. Stop leak additives work by softening " rubber" seals and also the hoses. They work a bit to well. The additive is best used for say 100 miles then flush and fit new fluid. If the plastic seals are worn the stop leak additives will NOT soften plastic seals. No rack or steering box is truly oil tight. It's a case of how bad. Slimy is ok but dropping oil when parked with a loss from the reservoir is not. My car has a steering box. The amount of topping up is very small and at a guess I use a spoon full every 1000 miles. The box has a minute wetness around the lip seal above the pitman arm. I wipe it off and it reappears in about 500 miles. This is perfectly ok and the wetness does oil the seal and keep surface rust off the steering box out put shaft. | ||
| David Towers Experienced User Username: xtriple Post Number: 19 Registered: 6-2010 |
My car has just had its SECOND rack in less than 300 miles! The original one was leaking so was replaced with a rebuilt unit. It leaked like a sieve and I was topping it up every day. Replaced under warranty and this one 'seems' fine so far. The racks do not appear to be a strong point! | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Prolific User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 132 Registered: 4-2015 |
I seem to recall an article or posting from Mr. R.Treacy regarding this problem as being not the design of the rack but faults encountered in the rebuilding procedures that resulted in damage to the seals. Can anyone provide a link? | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1831 Registered: 6-2009 |
Christian, Your memory is slightly off with regard to content, but not existence, of said article by Richard Treacy. See, Racking Your Brains from the Technical Library. Brian | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Prolific User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 133 Registered: 4-2015 |
Brian... I marvel at your ability to find links and articles when the best I can do is muster a vague recollection and generally have no idea of what I even had for breakfast this morning, either! Yes. That is the article. Do you not think that what Richard discovered may be of relevance in the current situation...i.e. a defective rebuild? Or, of more concern, the revelation that just because something was "rebuilt" does not necessarily serve to imply (at least in this situation) that it has been done properly...especially since in this case the "rebuilt" rack was, for all intents and purposes, defective. I'm just saying. | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 84 Registered: 7-2015 |
Great article thanks for finding it Brian | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 451 Registered: 4-2012 |
Perhaps the original equipment wasn't up to the job and that a rebuilt abomination is always going to be just that. The case of David Towers 300 mile rebuilt steering rack wouldn't fill one with confidence about fitting a rebuilt unit even if it was guaranteed it would be the constant labour charges or if doing it yourself the thought of having to do it over again in a short time frame would be to say the least off putting, I am just after reading Richard Treacys article mentioned above very interesting, I wonder how long that rebuild actually lasted before leaking that would help to gauge what to expect. My own car is a low mileage car and was used very little before I bought it I on the other hand I have used this car frequently on some quite long journeys and maybe would be the explanation to why it gave no problem until I bought it. (seems that there are more questions than answers) Richard. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1832 Registered: 6-2009 |
Christian, This "marvelous ability" really isn't. Just like I maintain the RR & Bentley Parts, Repair, Restoration & Other Resources Compilation, I keep a file of pre-formatted URLs to web materials that get asked for on a recurring basis. I started doing this for various things, but particularly for stuff on the RROC-Australia Post-War Technical Library that's not located where my "mental filing system" expects it should be, so that I can "quote chapter and verse" without driving myself mad looking for said chapter and verse again and again and again. I'm certainly not pulling it out of my mental rolodex sans any digital help. Brian | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 520 Registered: 4-2009 |
its a long shot - but here goes....... Does anyone want to exchange their Shadow II LHD rack for my RHD Shadow II rack? if so, please PM me. A RHD rack is of little or no use to me in Dubai. Thanks Omar | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Prolific User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 134 Registered: 4-2015 |
Brian... In other words...you are organized...a trait that I often aspire to, but seldom achieve! I have never managed to get out of the "I don't lose things, I just cannot remember where I put them" purgatory. I am envious! Christian | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 3248 Registered: 4-2003 |
That rack has never leaked since the early 2000s when I wrote the article. Since then the car has travelled hundred of rgousand of kilometers in Europe and Australia at temperatres between -20C and 45C and the steering barely even needs a top-up. RT. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 453 Registered: 4-2012 |
Richard that is very encouraging to know thank you for that it would also be of interest to know what tyres that you use on your turbo r. Richard. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 3249 Registered: 4-2003 |
I have 17" tyres on my Conti R and had them on on the Turbo (I have now sold the Turbo R after all those years). I ditched those horrible original 15" wheels on my Turbo R around 2000 and fitted Turbo RT 17" wheels and tyres. Likewise, I hated the 16" original wheels on my Continental R and replaced them as soon as I bought it in favour of 17" rims and tyres- All are 255.55x17, rated at least 102Z. I had Michelins, 102W , rated for 270km/h and ideal for Germany, until they were discontinued. Then I ran two sets of Nokians. The Michelins were brilliant, and the Finnish Nokians quite good. I then had a set of Maxxis which were not exactly acceptable, but now run Pirelli Zero Scorpians. The Pirellis are really good but not up to the Michelin standard. RT. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 523 Registered: 4-2009 |
Its great to have you back with us again Richard Treacy. | ||
| Bill Hart Frequent User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 57 Registered: 6-2015 |
When I first acquired my'95 Turbo R the steering rack was leaking and lumpy (hard spots in operation). I added some "snake oil" and the lumps disappeared and the leaks stopped. However, As I noted somewhere in an earlier post, the steering remained excessively heavy. Investigation revealed a ball joint which appeared to be dry due to a torn rubber seal. Replaced the ball joint and now the car steers much easier and drives like a dream just going down the road. But if the steering wheel is rotated from lock to lock a series of barely detectable snaps is evident. This indicates I may still have a latent problem in the steering linkage and/or the rack. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1937 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bill, Does your vehicle have a universal joint in the shaft between the steering wheel and the rack and pinion assembly? Unfortunately, I have never worked on a R-R/B with rack and pinion steering. If so, the universal joint may require replacement if worn excessively as this wear can cause snaps/clicks as the joint spider moves in the UJ housing each time the steering wheel is turned. | ||
| phil randall Experienced User Username: phil_randall Post Number: 18 Registered: 8-2006 |
on my 90 turbo r i had been curious as to why the front suspension seemed a little stiffer than the rear, also when taking a tight turn (full lock) the steering would be a bit reluctant to self centre afterwards. i jacked the front up and checked for grease under the ball joint rubbers, there was plenty of clean grease, however is was all on the top of the joint, with it jacked up more of the sliding surface of the joint is exposed....it was dry on all joints, after spreading the grease around the joints on full lock in both directions a couple of times the suspension is now as it should be and the steering is lighter and it self centres very easily. | ||
| Mark Herbstreit Prolific User Username: mark_herbstreit Post Number: 145 Registered: 5-2005 |
The Turbo R steering column linkage is different to Spirits.  If the rubber coupling has disintergrated you get a degree of play. Particularly noticeable at parking speeds. Worthwhile replacing if any play noticeable whilst manouvering at low speeds.  | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1938 Registered: 4-2003 |
Thanks Mark, I am reasonably confident the universal joint is the cause of the problem - another instance of the inherent problem in "sealed for life" units that have no provision for regular lubrication. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 3251 Registered: 4-2003 |
You probably have a broken subframe mount UR21446. Expensive stuff. | ||
| Bill Hart Frequent User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 58 Registered: 6-2015 |
Thanks for all suggestions. I will be checking for grease distribution, U joint problems and, God forbid, a broken subframe mount. More later. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 550 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Bill did you ever get to the bottom of this steering problem would be good to hear the conclusion. Richard. | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 701 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi all 89 turbo r I have a small pas leak from the pinion seal (the peaned over type). Is it posible to replace the seals (CD6331/2) without stripping the rack? or removing the valve housing from the rack? Cheers Mike | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 704 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi 2 leaks I have found are from the resevoir seam and from the little flex pipe from the bottom ,goes rock hard. Mike |
