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Hameed Mohamed
Experienced User
Username: hameednoor

Post Number: 22
Registered: 12-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 27 October, 2015 - 08:33:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Is there a way that the auto ride can be converted to a regular suspension. Flying Spares sells a kit. Apparently replace with regular shocks. Any views. I recently replaced by rear shocks and front ones are shot and am investigating. Of course my auto ride is shot.
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Hameed Mohamed
Experienced User
Username: hameednoor

Post Number: 23
Registered: 12-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 27 October, 2015 - 09:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Any views on Auto Ride Diagnostic tool from FlyingSpares UD73741P. Seems cool
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richard george yeaman
Grand Master
Username: richyrich

Post Number: 411
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 04:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Hameed I just came across this post and wondered if you had any success rectifying your suspension if so you might want to share your conclusions.

Richard.
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Jim Walters
Frequent User
Username: jim_walters

Post Number: 57
Registered: 1-2014
Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 05:12:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The Auto Ride diagnostic tool from SBI Electronic Engineering in Bolton is considerably less at 325. I have one and it works well. It is used to read error codes and also can re-calibrate the ECU. It will also allow you to select any mode while driving. SBI also rebuilds the ECU's.

SRE22493 NAC-05370
www.bristolmotors.com
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Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 798
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 06:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The struts have electric valves inside which open and close thus altering the damping from stiff to soft. This is controlled by an ecu
Obviously.


If the valves can be manually set by applying power to the valves then the damper can be set manually, as in older RRs. Soft medium sporty and hard

If manual electric control is differcult then maybe the valve can be unscrewed and the appropriate bit locked off in soft or medium.

I notice the strut has two bits on the side which is probably the valves. I think both valves off give say soft and both on give hard. And either valve on or off give medium and sporty.

The first step is to find out how many volts the valves run at. Don't assume it's 12v. It probably is 12v but check first.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1407
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 08:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

no coils energised is sport, one does comfort, the other normal.

So no power gives a constant Sport or Hard mode.

The solenoids can not just be energised easily unfortunately. They use a high voltage to move the valve and them a much lower one to hold it.

You can fit normal front shocks and change the valves that sit on on the top of the rear shock where the gas spring screws into.

I'd have used ones of the early valve blocks (non active)

Some people are happy with Bilstien front and rears in permanently in hard mode. But some find it too stiff for rear passengers.

I always recommend having the ride ECU and PSU checked , serviced, and reprogrammed with a more comfortable set of ride parameters.
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Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 799
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Saturday, 12 December, 2015 - 10:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

What a shame about the voltages it complicates things from the shed to a laboratory.

I find at first stuff like this overwhelming. But with careful thought and inspection a solution is found.

Also worth doing a wiring check. A few abs faults I have fixed have turned out to be wiring or sensors.

Final thought. I assume PSU means power supply unit. If this is working correctly then the voltages will be available to work the valves electric manually.
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David Towers
Experienced User
Username: xtriple

Post Number: 17
Registered: 6-2010
Posted on Friday, 08 January, 2016 - 01:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I was faced with this dilemma recently when I was told my front suspension was 'shot'. The Bilstein kit came in at about 1000 ( plus VAT) and that was struts and springs. The original stuff was a tiny bit dearer - each strut over a 1000 (plus VAT) bare!
I ummed and ahhed for a weekend and then spent the money on all new standard (active ride) stuff and had 4500 worth of bill for the pleasure!
I was also offered 're-built' units for about 500 each but advised against them as the specialist had used them before and one failed in short order. I intend to keep the car so it was worth (?) the money to have all new.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1416
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Friday, 08 January, 2016 - 18:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

OUCH David. :-(

Sounds painful . . what did they do for that?

Most active ride faults are just 'silly' faults which can be repaired for much less. A diagnostics box must be used to locate the faults though.

Any early cars with faults should also have the Active Ride Control unit refurnished and reprogrammed.
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Ron Vale
New User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 4
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 15 November, 2016 - 09:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just an update
Spirit II 1990 33893

Had a rear spring and bottom holder replaced
took it out last week and the ride is 'bouncy' to say the least
No warning for auto ride going u/s shows up, and when i take the fuse out the warning shows on ign turn on
Before i start dismantling/spending wads of cash on it. any thoughts on the reason why?
spheres u/s ( at least 15 years old!!)
needs re bleeding
ECU gone

any ideas welcome

Thanks
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1678
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 15 November, 2016 - 10:00:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Ron, almost certainly a pair of rear gas springs. (Spheres).
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Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 912
Registered: 4-2009
Posted on Wednesday, 16 November, 2016 - 04:52:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul is right on the money. The spheres need changing.
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Ron Vale
New User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 5
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Wednesday, 16 November, 2016 - 04:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul, would you know the Citreon part number that covers these? My ex employer will give me discount!!
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Ron Vale
New User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 6
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Wednesday, 16 November, 2016 - 05:40:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ignore my last message. further reading put me right!!
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Ron Vale
New User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 7
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Friday, 18 November, 2016 - 09:16:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Before i part with hard earned cash. i have had spheres gone equals verd ride, and by that i would guess it rattles the fillings,and sphers gone bouncy ride and by that the rear seat passengers touch the roof going over small bumps. So what is correct?
I have the bouncy castle symptoms
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gary webb
Yet to post message
Username: webbgw

Post Number: 1
Registered: 6-2014
Posted on Friday, 18 November, 2016 - 10:42:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

hi ron
sorry my vin number for my car
SCAZS000XBCH03067
regards gary
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gary webb
New User
Username: webbgw

Post Number: 2
Registered: 6-2014
Posted on Friday, 18 November, 2016 - 10:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

hi ron
yes spheres gone
i have a 1981 spirit with 18000 miles
getting ready to sell it has right rear sphere gone bounces over road
ps i have good parts available for cars 80 / 04
available
gary webb
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1679
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Friday, 18 November, 2016 - 20:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Like "the bumps " when on a kids see saw? Or being pushed along IN a wheel barrow with a solid tyre?
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Mark Aldridge
Grand Master
Username: mark_aldridge

Post Number: 363
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Saturday, 19 November, 2016 - 03:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul, I cant think of a better description !
Mark
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Ron Vale
New User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 8
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Saturday, 19 November, 2016 - 10:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul
more the former! i had the bride and father really oscillating on Sat, and i wasnt too far behind them.It felt as though there was no resistance at all. If you can remember the 'good old days' on a Ford the test was push down once up and settle. Whilst i havent got the strength nowadays to do that on the Spirit it would be push down,release, go and have a cup of tea and then finally watch it stop!!!! It is like being in one of the early 60's US barges. On and while it is past midnight now, i am pretty sure that the rear hasnt 'settled' and is still at a very hight level. Am out all day tomorrow so will do a measure on Sun Morning. It used to settle so much that the wheel carrier would catch the ladder i had underneath, i then used to watch the rear rise up to its running position ( i wish i had kept the measurements!)
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gordon le feuvre
Prolific User
Username: triumph

Post Number: 141
Registered: 7-2012
Posted on Thursday, 24 November, 2016 - 21:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul is correct. When active car stationary, no feed to either solenoid. This is so car does not "sit" on take off. Then when moving, changes from hard at low speed to comfort/sport depending on speed etc. If system fails/defaults designed to set dampers to hard by having no feed. This is for safety, so that an owner does not tear off into sunset on soft mode! Active really does work, remember the original training at Crewe. Was in active car following pre-active around Cheshire, could really see car in front rolling, where our car was flat.
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Ron Vale
New User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 9
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Thursday, 01 December, 2016 - 02:34:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Having been seconded on house duties for a few days, nothing hs been done on rectifying the problem.
however just to cler any niggles i might have before setting about putting on new spheres a question
Last year i had the LH spring and bottom bracket replaced.
I would guess that in order to do this the system would have to be depressurised. If on completion the bleed nipple wasnt tightened up would that give the same symptons of a very bouncy ride? ( havent had a chance to check the fluid level in the front containers yet.)
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1690
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Thursday, 01 December, 2016 - 05:05:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I would guess that in order to do this the system would have to be depressurised.

No.

If on completion the bleed nipple wasnt tightened up would that give the same symptons of a very bouncy ride? ( havent had a chance to check the fluid level in the front containers yet.)

No, it would leave a trail & puddles of fluid on the floor. It would also be sitting on it's arse.
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Ron Vale
New User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 10
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Thursday, 01 December, 2016 - 06:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul

appreciate there is no such thing as a stupid question.. its only the person that asks it! lol

Ron
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1691
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Thursday, 01 December, 2016 - 09:26:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Oh god Ron. Sorry if that sounded that way . that wasn't the tone I said it in.

Best regards, Paul.
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Ron Vale
Experienced User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 11
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Friday, 02 December, 2016 - 05:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul,

I never even considered it! The written word does not have the inflection of the spoken word, and cannot convey a wink or a smile.!
I just cannot get my head around the 'hard ride' if the spheres go phut. To me hard ride is like being pushed in a shopping trolley over Belgian pave, whereas a soft ride is rather like sitting on a jelly on springs ( which i the condition i have) bouncy bouncy bouncy. Oh to have Carol Vorderman in the back with the rear view mirror adjusted!!!
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Ron Vale
Experienced User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 12
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Sunday, 21 May, 2017 - 08:59:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

OK, warm weather arrived,then rained. But typically RR technology, every video/instruction i have read, does not tell you about the two coils of tubing right in front of the spheres so you cannot get at them!!.
Couple of pics attached, apologies if the appear 90 degrees to the left.
So how do i get around this?
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Ron Vale
Experienced User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 13
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Sunday, 21 May, 2017 - 09:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Arrghhh no pics!
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1814
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Sunday, 21 May, 2017 - 09:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

So how do i get around this?

turn the camera through 90 degrees? Smileeey Face

The spheres will come by them. Or take them off the connector to get more flexibility.
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Charles Drakoulas
Experienced User
Username: free_spirit

Post Number: 18
Registered: 1-2016
Posted on Sunday, 21 May, 2017 - 09:29:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ron, if you are talking about the two curly hydraulic lines right in front of the rear spheres, I had the same problem not to long ago.I figured that the offensive hydraulic line didn't grow there. It then dawned upon me to remove the top tray that holds the jack and tool kit.
Unbelievable! Everything became accessible and I was able to remove the top fixing on both sides.
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Ron Vale
Experienced User
Username: silverfoxcc

Post Number: 14
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Monday, 22 May, 2017 - 03:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Charles

Have an internet pint. Will have another look at the weekend

Thanks

Ron
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 2306
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Monday, 22 May, 2017 - 07:49:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ron,

The easiest way to include pictures is using the backslash image command documented on the Forum Formatting Instructions Page under the Images, Attachments, and Clipart section.

While I try to use text description that's accurate, it can be quite simple, and some people just stick something like, "pic1", etc., inside the backslash image command.

Maximum image size is limited to 640x640 pixels due to the age of this software. You will most likely need to size down any picture you've taken since most cameras, including those on smartphones, use a much higher resolution than this as their lowest resolution.

Brian

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