Turbo R Problems Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Australian RR Forums » Spirit Series » Threads to 2015 » Turbo R Problems « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bill Hart
Experienced User
Username: bill_hart

Post Number: 15
Registered: 6-2015
Posted on Thursday, 13 August, 2015 - 01:48:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Update on Turbo R 55371 saga: Readers of my earlier posts will recall that I recently bought an unbelievably cosmetically pristine '95 Turbo R which, obviously, had always been garaged. Faultless masons black paint - new tires - can't tell it was ever sat in - good brake and pads - glass, chrome, wood and plastic all excellent - very quiet and powerful. What could be wrong with such a car? Well, quite a bit, actually.
First, the driver's seat adjuster failed due to the well documented battery leak problem. Then the key wouldn't automatically return to "run" from "start" and the shifter wouldn't select gears, until I learned to manually return the key. Then one horn wouldn't honk. Had the wheel alignment checked and found the camber out of tolerance. Then the steering became heavy and lumpy, with hard spots. Whew!
But this is a beautiful, perfect running Bentley and I'm determined to make it as good as it looks. The steering problem seemed the scariest and potentially the most expensive, so I figured "what have I got to lose" and filled the reservoir with some mechanic in a can snake oil which claimed to fix such problems. Amazingly, it worked. Smooth as silk now. We'll see how long it lasts. Sent the seat ECU out for rebuild. Bought a "Coupling Ignition Switch" from Flying Spares for $10 which fixed the key problem. Bought a set of air horns on Amazon for $40.
The key coupling was a cylindrical plastic object about 5/8" diameter x 1" length which enclosed the return spring. I'm sorry I wasn't present when it was installed, but the mechanic said it wasn't difficult.
The car is presently in the shop having all the noted difficulties sorted out. I hope to get it back this week and then - Happy Motoring.
Question: I have little faith in the longevity of the steering "fix" and anticipate a future need to replace the steering rack. I would like for the steering to be lighter than seems to be characteristic of a Turbo R. I seem to recall reading here that a Rolls Royce rack would fit, and due to some mechanical difference would provide much light steering effort. Does anyone know about this?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 412
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Thursday, 13 August, 2015 - 11:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The additive used on the PAS may carry pn working. Sometimes a bit to well and the seals etc swell.

I would now be inclined to remove the pas fluid and use LHM instead with no additives.

I have never driven a Turbo R so I don't know about the steering weight. But I shouldn't think that it is in any way anythimg but light.

So before you go any further check the steering weight using a spring balance tied to the steering wheel rim and compare with specs --- tyre pressures.

As you know this rack has been problematic. 3 companies have had a go at redesigning seals etc. The third company seems better. But to us steering box car owners we think the service life of the rack is pants.

One aspect that deserves investigation is that the subframe that the rack is attached to may flex and flex the rack. A solution would be to make the pasenger side mounting flexible.

Jaguar XJ rack has rubber bushes in the mountings. The racks last the life of the car normally.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Lluís Gimeno-Fabra
Grand Master
Username: lluís

Post Number: 393
Registered: 8-2007
Posted on Saturday, 15 August, 2015 - 07:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi,

When I changed the rack in Continental R 52020 for the RR item I was very happy with the lighter weighting. Yes, post 92 racks in Turbo models are heavier.

I do not think you added snake oil, but just a seal conditioner. It may last long, as non used cars can suffer from hardened seals. My rack died without any reliability issues at 65000 miles which is not worse than my Jaguars (which is also solid mounted as post XJ40 Jaguar saloons, Rob).

I know the theory that rob refers to (subframe flexing) and vey much respect the knowledge of the gents that first discussed it. True it may be, but no one here will argue that you are driving one of the heaviest cars in the planet... yes a lorry has longer lasting racks, but your Turbo R also has some feel... so 65000 is something I can live with.

PS, on highways the Rolls rack will definately be worse in turn-in, it's just too assisted, but all over, I still prefer the lighter feeling...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 424
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Saturday, 15 August, 2015 - 07:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Its a shame that the pas is not adjustable.

PAS is actually also a safety feature.

If one of front wheels hits a pot hole the front wheel may try to pull the steering. If this happens the reverse torque through the rack to the rack pinion will cause the valve to crack open which sends fliud to the rack to hold the steering in line. This will even happen if one is not holding the steering wheel properly although the effect will be less. Holding the wheel properly and the effect is more.

When a car is stationary the effort to turn the steering is a lot. As soon as the car is rolling the steering lightens up.
This means that there is less torque on the rack pinion and the valves don't open so much. At say 100mph the torque on the pinion is so small that the PAS is hardly working. However some set ups use the PAS to overcome shallow caster angles and high self centering forces.

The Steering on my Shadow is un drivable with out PAS.

Also I read of a guy who blew a hose and carried on driving eith very heavy ateering. It done more damage to the car. He didn't say what. I suspect he over torqued the steering column collapsible mesh.

The XJ6 I was refering to was the 1969 to 1983 series 1, 2, and 3.

I personally think RR steering is over light. The specs I believe for a Shadow is about 1lb at the rim. I wonder what 2 lb would feel like.

I did think of meddling with the pressure from the pump but thats complicated and it could bugger something up.

Racks are a little bit easier for adjustments because they are easy to remove and strip down and fit strong valve springs. Stronger valve springs then require more input torque from the steering wheel and heavier steering. Maybe shims will do.

Is the ratio the same turbo to spirit wise.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

richard george yeaman
Grand Master
Username: richyrich

Post Number: 343
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Saturday, 15 August, 2015 - 08:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi my Turbo R 60128 also has very low miles for its age 32000 miles full service history all MOT certificates etc. The steering is also heavy would it be wise to try some seal conditioner to lighten it up a bit or would I be better waiting until it is needing replaced.

Richard.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert
Prolific User
Username: jphilbert

Post Number: 101
Registered: 9-2013
Posted on Saturday, 15 August, 2015 - 09:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

As far as I understood the steering system, the difference between the RR and the Bentley rack is the spool valve. The servo pump and the rack are same part numbers. The spool valve is independent of LH or RH drive vehicles.
Bill, procure yourself an RR spool valve from a breaker. Setting it up is fine art though, like manufacturing a swiss watch. I got dizzy after reading only 3 lines in the workshop manual, and the procedure is half a page long. Send your rack AND the other spool valve off to a rebuilder. I had a leaky rack and I paid some 350GBP including the 2 shipments. Results are perfect!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bill Hart
Experienced User
Username: bill_hart

Post Number: 18
Registered: 6-2015
Posted on Sunday, 16 August, 2015 - 09:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I have a '79 Rolls Corniche DH. I like its steering, which is very light. When/if it becomes necessary to replace the rack on the Turbo R I will seriously consider the Rolls version. Thanks to all for the responses. }