| Author | Message | ||
     Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 343 Registered: 8-2007 |
Dear all, After giving #52020 Continental-R a fantastic maintenance session which it did deserve and love. no check engine lights at any temperature, perfect idle, fantastic vacuum. I now want to get rid of the annoying front-of-engine oil sweep. I have traced it to the foam seal and whilst fixing this I wanted to do: - belts, - water-pump, - alternator inspection - Re-charge the airco (compressor is 1 year old) - ... I will also do some after-market modifications, such as fitting a blanket to the hot turbocharger side and in case no one shouts, silicon seal the front, instead of using paper gaskets. My intention is NOT to change the main seal, because I am not looking forward to pulling the pulley (I would need to rent the tool from flying spares) and it seem to rarely give trouble. Please, would you be so kind as of sharing experience and advice? Would you do the main seal as well as a matter of course? How much more of a mess does this mean? I am taking the bonnet out: would you go full-blast and fit metal caps to the radiator? Strangely I have never heard of problems in Europe with the Behr radiator, but have read of them in this forum. Thanks in advance, Lluís | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest |
I would as far as the gasket and front seal. Don't fix unless broke. I don't see a problem paper gaskets, they have been used for 200 years and work. So I would fit new belts only and maybe repaint the brackets for alternator etc. If the rad is not leaking then it's fine. I don't think it's possible to fit metal in place of plastic. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest |
Llius I misread your post. if the front is leaking then the crank pulley must come off, to get at it. So you can go silicon only if you want. Paper and silicon is also good.. My car being older has the superior scroll seals. The radiator if faulty can only be replaced. If you want traditional all copper based then a rad maker can make one easy. Plastic ones last well and work just as good as all metal. Note paper gaskets often shrink in storage, so wet them before use. Because a wet gasket is softer it finds the imperfections better. Observe torture [torque but an interesting malapropism worth noting] settings on bolts etc. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 346 Registered: 8-2007 |
Bob, actually my oil leak comes from the foam seal, not the main seal. I am wondering whether I want to do the main seal as I will have the bonnet out... What do you think? Very difficult? | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 138 Registered: 2-2013 |
LUIS, NOTHING WRONG WITH PAPER SEALS, BUT I DO USE BLUE MAX SILICON INSTEAD BECAUSE I DONT WANT TO GO TO THE TROUBLE OF MAKING PAPER GASKETS AND OR PAYING FOR PAPER GASKETS. THE TRICK WITH SILICON IS BOTH SURFACES HAVE TO BE CLEANED OF ALL OIL WITH SOLVENT AND CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO ONLY USE AS MUCH SILICON AS IS NECESSARY TO SEAL THE TWO SURFACES, YOU DON'T NEED THE STUFF SPEWING INTO THE INSIDE OF THE ENGINE. NOW IF YOUR CAR HAS THE SAME FRONT ON THE ENGINE AS A CAMARGUE/SILVER SHADOW THEN THE REST OF THIS POST IS RELEVANT, IF IT DOES NOT HAVE THE SAME FRONT THEN IGNORE THIS. YOU TALK ABOUT THE FOAM SEAL. IS THAT THE SEAL THAT POKES OUT EACH SIDE AT THE TOP NEAR THE TIMING CASE? AS FOR HAVING TO RENT A TOOL OFF FLYING SPARES/OTHERS TO GET THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY AND OTHER BITS OFF TO GET AT THE CRANKSHAFT SEAL I MANAGED TO GET MINE OFF USING A TWO LEGGED PULLER (BUT SEE MY POST CAMARGUE EXPLOSION IN THE OUT BACK) ADMITTEDLY I HAD THE ENGINE OUT OF THE CAR TO DO THIS SO I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE DOING IT IN THE CAR. AT LEAST THE RADIATOR WOULD HAVE TO BE PULLED OUT AND THEN IF THE PULLER GETS THE FLANGE OFF, IF THE THING IS REALLY TIGHT, THEN YOU NEED TO PUT SOME MARINE PLY AND CARDBOARD BETWEEN THE PULLER AND THE AIRCONDITIONING CONDENSER BECAUSE WHEN IT GOES BANG THE PULLER WILL DESTROY TO CONDENSER LIKE A GUN BLAST. AS FOR PLASTIC RADIATORS I HATE THEM JUST LIKE POLITICANS AND BATTERIES. ITS NOT THE PLASTIC THAT FAILS, ITS THE HIDEOUS CRIMP CLAMPS THAT SEAL THE TOP AND BOTTOM TANKS. GIVE ME A BRASS OR ALUMINIUM RADIATOR ANY DAY BECAUSE I SIMPLY WILL NOT TOLERATE A PLASTIC RADIATOR IN ANY OF MY CARS AND EXPECIALLY IF THEY ARE MADE IN CHINA. ALSO WHEN YOU TAKE THE BONNET/HOOD OFF MARK WHERE ITS ATTACHED TO THE BRACKETS SO YOU CAN GET IT BACK EXACTLY IN THE SAME POSITION THAT IT CAME OFF. I POKED A THICK BLANKET ALL AROUND THE FRONT LIP OF THE BONNET BEFORE REMOVING IT TO PREVENT ANY PAINT DAMAGE TO THE FRONT MUDGUARDS, GRILL AREA AND FRONT AND SIDES OF THE BONNET. DON'T UNDER ESTIMATE THE WEIGHT OF THE BONNET. IF ITS ANYTHING LIKE THE CAMARGUE'S IT'S MUCH HEAVIER THAN WHAT IT LOOKS. I PUT A THICK BLANKET ON TOP OF THE CAR AND THEN PUT THE BONNET UPSIDE DOWN ON THE BLANKET THAT WAY ITS OUT OF THE WAY. I PROBABLY WOULD CHANGE THE CRANKSHAFT SEAL AS YOU ARE GETTING INTO THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE FAIRLY DEEPLY AND YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN A SEAL IS GOING TO START LEAKING SO IF YOU DID ALL THIS WORK AND A WEEK LATER THE SEAL STARTS TO LEAK YOU WILL BE REDOING A GOOD PORTION OF THE WORK. ALSO USE EITHER GOOD QUALITY COVERS FOR THE FRONT MUDGUARDS. I THINK THE BEST COVERS ARE THICK BLANKETS BOUGHT FROM A SALVATION ARMY/SAINT VINNIES SECOND HAND STORE FOR VERY LITTLE MONEY. THEN YOU GET HALF INCH ROUND STEEL AND HAVE IT SOWN INTO ONE EDGE. I BOUGHT THE LARGEST MUDGUARD COVERS FOR MY CADILLAC FROM SNAP ON AT A HUGE PRICE AND THEY ARE TOO THIN, THE RED COLORING COMES OFF THEM AND IN SHORT THEY ARE ABSOLUTE CRAP. IT IS HIDEOUS TO HAVE MECHANICS OR YOURSELF BENDING OVER THE FRONT MUDGUARDS FOR HOURS GROANING AND GRUNTING FIXING THE OIL LEAK AND THEN DISCOVER YOU HAVE DONE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS DAMAGE TO THE PAINT WORK ON THE FRONT GUARDS. ANYBODY WITH A BUCKET ON THEIR BELT SHOULD BE KEPT 3 METRES AWAY FROM THE CAR IN ALL DIRECTIONS. SORRY IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH ONCE THE PAINT HAS BEEN DAMAGED BY A FOOL. ALSO INSPECT THE FRONT ENGINE MOUNT FOR DRYNESS AND IF ITS GOT OIL ALL OVER IT THEN I WOULD REPLACE IT. AS YOU TAKE THE CAR APART USE PLASTIC RESEALABLE KITCHEN BAGS WITH A WHITE STRIPE ON IT TO RECORD EXACTLY WHERE THIS OR THAT BOLT CAME FROM. WITH THESE PLASTIC BAGS YOU GET AWAY FROM THE QUESTION OF "WHERE DOES THIS BOLT GO, OR WHERE ARE THE BOLTS FOR THIS THING. " AS SOON AS I COME ACROSS A ROW OF BOLTS ATTACHING ONE PART TO ANOTHER, IF THOSE BOLTS ARE OF DIFFERENT LENGTH, I GET OUT A DIARY AND DRAW AN ILLUSTRATION RECORDING THE LENGTH OF EACH BOLT AND EXACTLY WHERE IT GOES WITH A CRUDE DRAWING. IN THE TRADE BIG DAMAGE IS DONE WHEN A BOLT THAT IS TOO LONG CRACKS AN ALUMINUM CASTING. AND LUIS HAVE A LARGE SUPPLY OF ALCOHOL READY TO CALM DOWN WHEN THINGS GO WRONG, A CASE OF GOOD FRENCH WINE WILL DO, BUT A CASE OF GOOD RUSSIAN VODKA IS BETTER BECAUSE WHEN YOU WAKE UP THE NEXT MORNING YOU WON'T REMEMBER THE PROBLEMS OF YESTERDAY. ENJOY | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 347 Registered: 8-2007 |
Hi, Thanks for the comment and keep posting in case you have ideas. I remove the bonnet tomorrow. See you | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 348 Registered: 8-2007 |
Hello all, Almost done. Engine is reassembled, with the exception of the air-pump (so that I can control better the first kilometres). Airco is also empty and coolant is tap-water, just to flush the system during a few days. I posted no pictures, because frankly, they are unnecessary but I do have a couple of issues that I would have liked to know in advance. 1. Front of engine leakages (which were at the origin of the maintenance: Covers simply did not leak, but the foam gasket was in need of replacement, to diagnose just feel with you fingers in between the water pump and the main pulley (engine left side there is just enough room) in case there is oil, it's shot. 2. Front of engine leakages 2: the oil return and the oil feed from the turbo are sealed with paper seals and o-rings respectively, they are engine front-right and middle left. The oil feed from the block was loose and leaking. 3. Oil pressure sender: crude aluminijm o-ring, leaking. 4. Oil pan: not as difficult to tighten as I thought. Removing heat-shield from the accumulator helped access all bolts. It was leaking. 5. On the top of the engine there was a lot of oil sweat from the high flow from the crankcase through the PCV. Solved with re-sealing the ram-plenum pipes and hopefully the new front cover seals. 6. The turbo down-pipe is really difficult to fit. 7. All o-rings in contact with coolant started to show cracks. Correct coolant always used, so this must be normal at 100.000Km. There are several of these in the valley and between the block and the cover. 8. Bore you start, think of removing the cross-pipe of the exhaust it frees a lot of valuable space. It's easy to remove from side to side as one unit. 9. To undo the fan (difficult) I found a trick: Use the biggest bolt you can find (or clamp) to block the bottom of the water pump pulley with the top of the main pulley and bolt from both sides. The 32mm spanner needed a massive 80cm leverage. 10. Nothing, absolutely nothing, needs forcing, all pieces just fit in. In case you are forcing you are doing something wrong. See you, PAPA LLUIS CLAUDIA | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 385 Registered: 8-2007 |
Update. 1000 Km later there is no leakage what so ever apparent. I imagine the main culprits werethe foam seal between the covers and the turbo oil pressure freed line from the left corner of the block which merely needed tightening and new o-rings. Oil change to 10W60 Mobil Titanium for the very hot South of France, Spain and German holiday raised some doubts as to potential high viscosity, but it has definately improved engine refinement (used 10W40 Valvoline in winter) and also killed any sweating around the oil pan. Best regards | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 96 Registered: 9-2013 |
Lluis, will you drive through Luxembourg on y way up? | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 390 Registered: 8-2007 |
Hi there, Good one. what do you propose ;-) I am driving tomorrow from The Hague to Reims... It's a pity you ask now, because I am sleeping in Reims (excellent gastronomy) but I would certainly not have minded staying in Luxemburg, there is a hotel I like. On the way up we go through Freiburg and Wiesbaden. Best regards, Lluís |
