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Phil Sproston
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 203.173.24.213
Posted on Wednesday, 13 October, 2004 - 22:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Have found gunk in bottom of overflow bottle which blocks the flow to the radiator in last four spirits which I have serviced. Water stays in bottle, low water warning light will not come on, radiator can run low and overheat the motor. Needs to be removed from car, do not lose the washers. Washout in hot water using a pipe/bottle brush. Outside can be cleaned with grease and wax remover, this will make it look like new. Also drill the outlet hole to a bigger size to help stop blockages. This is an age problem and can wreck the motor if not fixed.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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whunter
Prolific User
Username: whunter

Post Number: 99
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, 26 November, 2004 - 05:36:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

This is why flushing the cooling system is very important.
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Bill Coburn
Grand Master
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 281
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 26 November, 2004 - 07:48:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I wish I had more experience in the flushing routine for these engines. Years ago I inherited an above ground swimming pool which among other paraphenalia had a large sand filter and a pool pump. I finally ditched the whole thing emptied the sand filter and hooked it and the pump up so that I could use it for flushing engines. The sand filter tank had a ceramic filter over the intake at the bottom of the container. The only concern was the pressure which was probably about 30 PSI and which actually had the soldered seams on the radiator shell of a 20/25 weeping. But it certainly moved the gunge. Periodically one had to stop the whole thing and clean the ceramic filter as it simply blocked up. I lent the kit to a friend who managed to burn out the motor and after having it clutter up the place for some years I relented and threw the lot out. I hanker for another but then wonder how would those pesky seals on the liners stand up to such vigorous flushing? On the other hand Bob Chapman has had blocks where the corrosion build up has been so great it has distorted the cylinder liner! And of course we all know that it will crack the webs in the block! I am dreading pulling my S2 to pieces.
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whunter
Grand Master
Username: whunter

Post Number: 102
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, 26 November, 2004 - 08:20:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Build another engine flush unit.
Any cylinder seal that is so weak; that it fails during a flush, is junk.
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John Dare
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 144.138.194.175
Posted on Friday, 26 November, 2004 - 08:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dont worry Bill, I have TWO S2 engines (61 & 62)totally complete, ONE (if not BOTH) of which will hopefully have a good block should your own not be recoverable. Robert Chapman would perform the disassembly/block "soak",liner removal and "dye" crack test etc. I almost nearly had ONE of these engines "sold" until I was told ("warned" actually) that I would be personally "hearing" from the actual buyer/owner who was "a tough negotiator". You can imagine how scared I was before I decided to withdraw it from sale (from HIM) for, as usual, intending buyers must at least score 50% on the "attitude" test. Some people think they are buying oil filters for "Holdens" or fan belts for "Scanias". You know how it is.

(Message approved by david_gore)