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Roderick Waite
Frequent User
Username: rodwaite

Post Number: 81
Registered: 1-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 30 April, 2013 - 00:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I've had my '84 Spirit for 3½ years, and it has always seemed to me that the bonnet catch is hard to pull. I presume the little lever is connected to the catch by a cable - what does one do if this cable breaks? Has anyone found themselves in this situation? Is there another way of opening the bonnet?

Rod
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1002
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 30 April, 2013 - 01:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

tin opener .

lubricate every year!
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James Feller
Grand Master
Username: james_feller

Post Number: 305
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Thursday, 02 May, 2013 - 21:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

it should never be hard to release, ever. As Paul states...lubricate very well the mechanisiam and latches under the bonnet and grease the cable.
ahhh there is no 'other secrect' release....ie like the fuel filler....
a can opener maybe your best bet if you snap that cable Rod....

J
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Roderick Waite
Frequent User
Username: rodwaite

Post Number: 82
Registered: 1-2012
Posted on Friday, 03 May, 2013 - 05:16:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Paul and James ... I don't think RR would be too pleased at having their cars likened to tin cans! Bit depressing ... the latch mechanism under the bonnet is well greased (and straight!) - how does one lubricate the cable, though?

If working on the car, I leave the bonnet unlatched rather than keep tugging the little lever. Luckily, the under-bonnet light goes out! Maybe I'm paranoid?

The bonnet on my little Yaris Verso isn't opened from one year's end to the next ...

Rod
'84 Spirit
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James Feller
Grand Master
Username: james_feller

Post Number: 306
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Tuesday, 07 May, 2013 - 21:34:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

lol...indeed they wouldnt...what I mean is grease the cable where you can with grease lube. The cable does not actually move inside a sleeve as such so as long as its not corroding just keep it geased in the bonnet area and all should be fine. Its the revolving claw latches that do require some grease from time to time so as to not put unnessary tension on the release cable.

is there an engine in a Yaris Rod??? lol

J
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 2825
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 07 May, 2013 - 21:51:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP


quote:

..the cable does not actually move inside a sleeve as such so..



Sorry James. Not true. The cable has a sheath just like on an old bicycle brake cable. However, if it seizes and the cable pull does not break it is possible to pull the sleeve and cable at the same time to open the bonnet. The other nasty is when the bracket underbonnet beneath the scuttle shakes loose or shears. Same safety net.

A good insurance is to fit a loose cable through the bulkhead on the passengers side, connected to the spare lever. That spare lever is there so that the main mechanism fits LHD and RHD cars alike.

RT.
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 2826
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 07 May, 2013 - 21:54:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Then, if the main cable breaks you can open the bonnet by pulling the spare cable so fitted.
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Jan Forrest
Grand Master
Username: got_one

Post Number: 472
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Friday, 10 May, 2013 - 19:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Lo these many years (?decades?) ago I was forced to 'persuade' a mini's choke cable inner to let go of the outer by the simple expedient of soaking it in light oil and distressing it with a lump hammer! However this is the far end of the spectrum and one would hope that a RR/B owner wouldn't let things get that bad before taking remedial action.

The old way of lubricating a Bowden cable was to remove one end from its clips, elevate it as much as possible and enclose the free end with a cardboard funnel taped securely to the outer. Then the funnel could be given a generous glug of light machine oil which would slowly seep down into the space between the outer and the inner over a period of a couple of days. It must be noted that some later Bowden cables are internally coated with a PTFE like substance which can swell in the presence of mineral oil and make the inner seize up even worse. Under normal circumstances I would expect this treatment to last several years, although biannual repetition shouldn't be too onerous - as long as you remember to do it!
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Roderick Waite
Frequent User
Username: rodwaite

Post Number: 85
Registered: 1-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 14 May, 2013 - 05:41:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I like Richard's idea of a spare cable connected to the LH under-bonnet lever. I hesitate about oiling the cable in case there is a ptfe lining ... Jan's plan is a bit drastic ... I'm heartened by the fact that the little lever is no harder to pull now than it was 3 years ago.

James, there really is an engine! Little fella, but pulls like crazy and very sweet natured. But I can vouch that VW Beetles definitely do not have an engine - I've looked many times ... but there does seem to be a spare one in the boot! Sure beats having a tool kit ... very Germanic!

Rod
'84 Spirit