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westy
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 95.147.1.8
Posted on Sunday, 31 March, 2013 - 23:47:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi all, this is my first post on this forum so I am hopeful some one out there can point me in the right direction on this one.The battery warning light on my 1990 Spirit will not go out, I have a good battery on board and the alternator is charging. I changed the battery just to check it didn't have a dodgy cell but all is well. I have searched this and other forums to check if some one else has had a similar problem but no luck, so any suggestions would be greatfully received.

Regards Simon

(Message approved by david_gore)
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David Thomas
Experienced User
Username: davidthomas

Post Number: 31
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Monday, 01 April, 2013 - 09:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Simon,

I've recently had a similar although intermittent problem with my 1990 Spirit 11. The battery warning light, the ABS warning light and the audible warning buzzer would come on for a split second and then go off for a while before coming on again. This was occurring all the time while driving.

Now - I'm almost ignorant when it comes to mechanical things so please bear with me while I try and explain that my auto electrician found that a plug on the wiring coming from the alternator, and quite near the alternator, had moisture in it. He commented that the plug, as installed by the factory, is upside down and allows water to enter and sit within it rather than if it were the other way around. He said steam cleaning in particular can cause water to enter the plug. He also commented that the ABS warning light was coming on because the system thought there was insufficient charge coming from the alternator. He pulled the plug apart, dried it out and - hey presto - no more warning lights or sounds.

I'm not in any way suggesting this is your problem however it may be worth checking on yours.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
David
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westy
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 95.147.1.8
Posted on Monday, 01 April, 2013 - 16:56:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks David. I will certainly look into that.

Simon

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Duane Ridenour
Yet to post message
Username: kg4ibj

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2013
Posted on Friday, 21 February, 2014 - 06:38:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Simon,

What was the result of your investigation? I have a similar issue though only battery light is partially lit. I have an 86 Silver Spur (GCX14318).

Thanks, Duane
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 1363
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 21 February, 2014 - 08:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Duane,

I haven't had this problem with a R-R/B vehicle but have had a similar experience with another vehicle which turned out to be a faulty diode in the alternator.
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Duane Ridenour
New User
Username: kg4ibj

Post Number: 9
Registered: 12-2013
Posted on Friday, 28 February, 2014 - 00:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David,

Thanks, the alternator looks like it was replaced recently (I purchased it late Nov'13). My guess it was a refurbished unit and could have a defective part as they are prone to do.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 726
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Friday, 28 February, 2014 - 04:15:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Now I'll jump into this thread based on David Thomas's comment.

This is one of the reasons I've become "addicted" to using either electrically conductive grease (in my case, Sanchem No-Ox-Id) or dielectric grease depending on whether I have a situation where I can "seal out" with dielectric or not.

In the case of a connector, once cleaned and dried, I would use electrically conductive grease on all of the pins (or, as is usually easier, putting a bit into each "cell" on the female side of the connector with a toothpick). This has several advantages including almost eliminating corrosion, generally creating a better connection, and making the individual pins/slides largely water repellant.

I have yet to experience the need to revisit any electrical connection where I've thoroughly cleaned things up and applied No-Ox-Id before putting everything back together. I wish using this stuff at time of assembly would become as common as anti-seize lubricant has for threaded fasteners.

Brian
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Bob Reynolds
Frequent User
Username: bobreynolds

Post Number: 64
Registered: 8-2012
Posted on Saturday, 01 March, 2014 - 18:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Anybody know of a UK equivalent to No-Ox-Id?

I'm also getting a bit fed-up of random electrical faults caused by 40-year old connectors.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 727
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Sunday, 02 March, 2014 - 02:07:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Bob,

Just FYI, I've sourced all the No-Ox-Id I have from eBay.

The only other alternative I'm familiar with is Gardner-Bender (often just "GB") Ox-Gard. It's available at Home Depot here in the US so it might be more readily available in the UK, too.

Brian