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Nigel Blackmore
New User
Username: chester9

Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Sunday, 08 January, 2012 - 21:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I have a 1992 Silver Spur with only 42k miles on.
The brakes start to shudder when i brake and more noticable when the brakes are warm.
I belive the issue is the rotors or disks having some warp or runout isues or even hot spots.
Does anyone have experience with cutting the rotors slightly to remove this and how much luck they had rather than just buying new rotors/disks. There is obveously a big price difference but if cutting the rotor won't really help or it comes back later then new ones are the way to go! Any one knowledgable in this area to save me some cash?
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Roderick Waite
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 81.50.47.51
Posted on Monday, 09 January, 2012 - 03:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Nigel, I have a 1984 Spirit, and experienced slight brake shudder when I first bought her. This was considered due to slight pitting of the front discs - possibly the car had not been used for some time - and sure enough the shudder gradually faded away with use. This may not apply to your car, of course, but check for pitting anyway!

Rod
'84 Spirit

(Message approved by david_gore)
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 1059
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 09 January, 2012 - 08:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Nigel,

Another possible cause is glazed brake pads. This is rectified by removing the pads and roughing them up with coarse emery paper.

The service manual in the Technical Library will help you:

http://rrtechnical.info/sz/05_sz.htm
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Chris Browne
Frequent User
Username: chrisb

Post Number: 69
Registered: 2-2010
Posted on Monday, 09 January, 2012 - 08:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Nigel,
A friend of mine had exactly the same problem on a Shadow. He had the front discs skimmed which solved the problem. This can only be done, of course, if the discs have sufficient thickness to start with. The minimum thickness which the discs can be skimmed down to is in the factory manual.
Kind regards,
Chris
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Bill Coburn
Moderator
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 1330
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 09 January, 2012 - 09:19:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Nigel/ The first step is to check for runout. If you can't borrow a dial gauge and holder, buy one they are not expensive. Perhaps before that borrow a 1-2" micrometer and check for thickness. The minimum figure is stamped on the edge of the rotor. If they are down to that figure the only option is to replace them. After market items which are perfectly satisfactory are readily available and are quite a saving! The cause of warping seems mainly to follow diving into cold wet puddles when the rotors are very hot. Not much you can do about this except be aware. Changing the rotors is covered in Tee One Topics.
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Mark Aldridge
Frequent User
Username: mark_aldridge

Post Number: 60
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Tuesday, 10 January, 2012 - 07:20:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Nigel, are the pads genuine or aftermarket ? My sons Spirit shuddered badly on heavy braking, which was solved by fitting genuine pads. I do not know the source of the pads that we discarded , but they looked newish and were on the car when we bought it.The discs were also fairley new, and there was no runout.
Mark
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Nigel Blackmore
New User
Username: chester9

Post Number: 7
Registered: 12-2011
Posted on Tuesday, 10 January, 2012 - 08:30:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Mark,I really don't know what pads are on this car at the moment as i only recently purchased it.
I have a very good mechanic going to look at the car this week. What you are saying makes alot of sense i will talk with the mechanic who is really good with with Rolls royce about all the points noted.
Also thanks to everyone for great input recently great food for thought!
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James Feller
Prolific User
Username: james_feller

Post Number: 182
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Monday, 19 March, 2012 - 20:54:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Can I suggest look at Flying Spares website. I had a new set of discs shipped to aus for my turbo a few months ago for $500 aussie. Huge saving on buying them here! Best I was quoted here in aus was $1000 plus shipping! My turbo had slight shudder too when heavy braking, I had discs machined a few years back but they were the originals and pretty much done after 20 years... I though 500 was bloody good value. This wasn't including fitting them of course however fitment is not hard and my mechanics had it done in a few hours and she stops on her nose again and not a shudder to be felt.
J
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A.R. Greenberg
New User
Username: bergxu

Post Number: 10
Registered: 2-2012
Posted on Friday, 15 June, 2012 - 05:15:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Brake pads themselves will not cause a shudder. Probably what happened in the case of your son's car was that one of the pads may have been cocked in the guide which wouldn't allow it to retract properly. My guess is that had you re-installed those pads (with a little lubricant on the sliding edges) after compressing the pistons enough to get them back out, your problem would have been solved.
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Lluís Gimeno-Fabra
Prolific User
Username: lluís

Post Number: 182
Registered: 8-2007
Posted on Friday, 15 June, 2012 - 17:12:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Nigel,

In my case it was warped discs at 42000 miles.

I got the discs skimmed without removal from the car to perfection.

Best regards,

Lluís
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Chuck C.
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 70.232.161.41
Posted on Thursday, 15 November, 2012 - 14:28:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Guys, I am having the same issue but need to remove the front discs from my 1993 Brooklands.

Are the front discs easy to remove and replace? Someone said 4-6 hours which is much longer than a typical car.

Thanks!

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 2717
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 15 November, 2012 - 19:50:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

It’s only 4-6 hours if you overhaul the callipers. Otherwise it's pretty normal, but you may as well replace the wheel bearings and grease seals.

The rotors themselves come from the hubs with a standard 12-point socket. No big deal.

The minimum job - simply release the callipers, remove the hubs, clean out the bearings, bolt on new rotors – about an leisurely hour each side. It’s the while-you-are-at-it that makes the larger job (calliper seals and maybe new pistons, pads, hoses and the rest) that makes the time blow out.

RT.
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Chuck C.
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 12.147.189.66
Posted on Friday, 16 November, 2012 - 08:14:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Richard.

If I decide to replace the pads, are there Mercedes (or other manufacturer) parts that can be used? I'm hoping something I could source locally in the US.

I am assuming the discs are a Crewe specialty part that need to come from a Bentley vendor or other supplier (Flying Spares, etc.)

Cheers.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 302
Registered: 4-2009
Posted on Friday, 16 November, 2012 - 18:29:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The discs are specific to Crewe cars as you say.
Dont bother with anything other than Rolls-Royce / Bentley pads. They are not too expensive and last a very very long time. Well worth the money. In today's world of delivery - these pads are at most three days away from your doorstep.
Thanks
Omar