| Author | Message | ||
     Peter Maclaren Experienced User Username: ludo Post Number: 16 Registered: 4-2009 |
I am about to attempt refinishing the door cappings on my car.22650. I have obtained the polyester resin ( Durotec) and sprayed some trials onto scrap wood then sanded polished etc and I am pleased with the result. My question is how to obtain the darker finish on the upper surface. I understand that the clear is tinted,but what with? Opinions on the net vary as to what to use, from stain additives to powders. The finish needs to be translucent and I don't want to add anything that will reduce the durability of the polyester.I wonder if anyone who has already done this recalls what they used? | ||
| C Lungmuss Unregistered guest Posted From: 195.93.21.34 |
Hello Peter, Your query re. door cappings has appeared just as I have done mine. On the Bentley the 'laquer' I used was clear and has colour matched the dashboard to an acceptable standard. Now I am sure that the Rolls Royce the door cappings were a darker laquer when I first stripped them many years ago. I have recently done them again as I felt my previous attempt was a disaster. This time I used Rustins Plastic Coating as I had been very pleased with the result on the Bentley. I had spoken to someone and they suggested staining the wood before applying the laquer. I was most unsure what stain, what colour etc. so that is why I applied the 'laquer' in its clear state. I have written a short piece on how I went about doing the door cappings that Rob might include in Crew'ed Jottings. If you would like a copy and the link to someone elses notes on car wood finishing please email me at lungmuss@aol.com and I would be pleased to send any information I have. All the best, Clive (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jeff Young Experienced User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 33 Registered: 10-2010 |
I used J. H. Ratcliffe's mahogany oil scumble to colour-match my rear window trim. (I find it much easier to control the amount of darkening with an oil-based stain.) I followed that with 28 coats of clear cellulose lacquer, but I would think the oil stain would work just as well under the polyester. Jeff. | ||
| Peter Maclaren Experienced User Username: ludo Post Number: 17 Registered: 4-2009 |
Thanks Jeff, I tried an oil base stain today but the polyester sealer seems incompatible with it ie like raindrops on a waxed surface. I will try acrylic lacquer next as a tint- a little black in some red gives quite a dark brown, looks like its going to be a case of 'trial and error' Your 28 coats must look great, the polyester goes on quite thick, so will need a lot less coats to build to a depth that is reasonable to allow for sanding back and polishing | ||
| Jeff Young Experienced User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 34 Registered: 10-2010 |
Peter, Interesting about the incompatibility. Sounds like the polyester is water-based. Be very careful sanding at the corners. Some of my 28 coats were because I sanded through to the stain (twice, even). Cheers, Jeff. | ||
| C Lungmuss Unregistered guest Posted From: 195.93.21.34 |
Hello Peter & Jeff' Here is the latest info on adding colour to Rustins Plastic Coating. Hope it steers you in the direction you want to get the finnish on your door cappings Regards, Clive You can colour the Plastic coating with a maximum of 10% using Winsor & Newton oil tints. The Artists oil colours are the best for Plastic coating, avoid aqueous types at all costs they will be incompatible Regards Chris Brunwin Technical Department tech@rustins.co.uk Rustins Limited Waterloo Road London NW2 7TX +44 20 8450 4666 www.rustins.co.uk (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Peter Maclaren Experienced User Username: ludo Post Number: 18 Registered: 4-2009 |
Many thanks Clive and Jeff.Clive has provided me with a lot of useful info,and I managed to obtain a tube of walnut coloured Winsor & Newton artists oil paint. This mixed quite well with the polyester, but when the overall colour became dark enough it also became opaque blocking out the grain which is normally visible. I have managed to obtain some old oak furniture with a grain very much like that of the cappings. The cappings look like oak to me but I'm no expert. I have now a number of test pieces on which to trial products and techniques. The theory that the coatings should be tinted now seems unlikely as all the info that I could find (after many hours scouring the net) suggests that the cappings are first stained, then polyester coated. Today I purchased a product called Wattyl Colourwood in a shade called "Terra". This colour is very close to the original and I have applied it to three test pieces and left for progressively longer periods before wiping off the excess. They have now been coated with Polyester sealing coat, and tomorrow I hope to apply the topcoats and see how they look. This stain is turps based and is designed to be overcoated with a clear finish. The oil base stains that I first tried seem incompatible with subsequent topcoats. As I said in my email to Clive, I am going ahead with the polyester option because I now have so much of it that it would be uneconomic to do otherwise (You can't buy it here in small quantities)I note that British restoration companies specialising in RR Bentley refinishing all use polyester coatings, and I an fortunate in having suitable spray equipment to apply it-and warm weather right now. | ||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Prolific User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 253 Registered: 5-2007 |
Peter I believe the top of the door cappings to be solid mahogany. Mine appears to have an ever so slight green tint applied to the stain to match my green interior. I would experiment with an area at the end which is going to be painted black to decide on what level of staining you like. Here is the link to the thread where it is stated that the tops are mahogany. Cheers, Jeff http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17/8968.html | ||
| Peter Maclaren Experienced User Username: ludo Post Number: 19 Registered: 4-2009 |
This project turned out to be more difficult than I had anticipated, and I can now understand why the experienced owners say 'leave it to the experts. There were many times when I wished I had never started, however there was no turning back once the stripping began, and even that took quite a time although I used the most agressive brand I could find I settled on a 50/50 mixture of Briwax wood dyes English Walnut and Dark Mahoganny to colour the upper suface.They were easy to use and if the colour appears too dark it can easily be lightened with meths. The advantage of the dyes was that there was no compatibility problem with the polyester going on top.I sprayed clear onto the veneered face, then mixed a little black tint ( supplied by the resin manufacturer) into clear to coat the upper surface. This was the only way I could get a darker ,but still tranlucent appearance. The spraying involved a fair amount of trial and error( mostly error) but was worth it as after spraying a tack coat, the main coats can be applied quite heavily without getting runs. The finishing is much quicker than using lacquer in that only one session of flatting is needed. Starting at 400 grade and working down to 2000 grade results in a good flat finish ready for ultra fine compounding. Thanks again for the helpful and encouraging comments I have received  |
