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Tom
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 81.132.111.132
Posted on Saturday, 11 December, 2010 - 23:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My Turbo R will not start. When I turn the ignition key the engine spins over on the starter without problem. The engine makes a half-hearted attempt at starting and then what sounds like a back-fire in the intake chamber above the fuel distributor.
Any ideas?

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 828
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, 12 December, 2010 - 07:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Worth checking first distributor drive belt, may be shot and ignition timing jumped.
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Bill Coburn
Moderator
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 1290
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 12 December, 2010 - 08:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Does it start OK when cold?
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 701
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 13 December, 2010 - 09:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Car Details?

Engine management fuse. Over Voltage relay.

More details or How long is string? :-)
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Tom
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 62.49.5.218
Posted on Sunday, 12 December, 2010 - 18:50:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I will check the distributor drive belt today.
The car has always started first time (hot or cold and restarts instantly after very short journey) even in minus 12 degC.

Our other Turbo R is difficult to re-start after a short journey, when the engine is not up to temp.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Tom
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 81.132.111.132
Posted on Monday, 13 December, 2010 - 01:28:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I removed a distributor cap to find that the rotor arm spun freely (driven side of tandem distributor) indicating a broken drive belt.
Having removed and dismantled the distributor I found that the sealed for life roller bearings a little rough and lumpy when spun, these are not listed in the parts book but a trip to a bearing supplier will sort this out.
I also found that the 4mm screws that secure the rotor arms to the shaft had too much high strength thread lock, so I had to drill these out.

Thanks for the help.
Will report back with update.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Tom
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 81.132.111.132
Posted on Tuesday, 21 December, 2010 - 01:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Changed all 3 roller bearings, rotor arms and fitted new drive belt, runs much better. This is a job that I had planned for but never got to do it until the car stopped.

Thank you.

(Message approved by david_gore)