| Author | Message | ||
     davide frada Experienced User Username: davidef Post Number: 27 Registered: 11-2008 |
Hello Gents, I've searched the website extensively, but have been unable to find any details/diagrams relating to the deletion of the steam valve in favour of a conventional pressure cap. Any details would be much appreciated. Regards Davide | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 2059 Registered: 4-2003 |
The reason is very simple. That downgrade to a cheapo cap is Not Recommended. | ||
| davide frada Experienced User Username: davidef Post Number: 28 Registered: 11-2008 |
Various postings here suggest replacement parts are no longer available, which is reason enough; quite aside from the simple fact that a modern bayonet pressure cap performs exactly the same function as the charming steam valve. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 529 Registered: 6-2006 |
Davide, I think that the problem is probably to do with the logistics of it. It would be nice to change to one of the 'cheapo' caps that the SZ series use but you'd need to either bastardise the header tank to accept some sort of standard cap, make a new header tank deleting the steam valve and using a SZ type neck and cap (I've seen some very tasty hand made headers - but they are not cheap) , or seal the steam valve aperture and fit another expansion tank elsewhere. The correct steam valves have given good service and I believe are still available, probably best to just stick to the originals.  | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 530 Registered: 6-2006 |
Davide, our posts crossed :/ If they are not available, then I think it would be an easy job for an 'old fashioned' radiator workshop to either braze a neck into the bottom plate where the steam valve goes or to seal that aperture, and braze a neck into the filler cap aperture. (the steam valve may be slightly higher than the cap??) If you used a Jap size cap and neck in the original filler, you could probably even cut the existing cap and bond it to the new bayonet cap so it still looks original. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 112 Registered: 4-2009 |
Davide, I am surprised that there is a parts availabilty issue. Which parts do you need? I am under the impression that there is an adundance of parts worldwide. all the best. Omar | ||
| davide frada Experienced User Username: davidef Post Number: 29 Registered: 11-2008 |
Paul (and Omar), good to hear from you. Where might I be able to purchase a new steam valve? Various postings here mention the sealing ring is available, but that other parts are not, and therefore recommend conversion to a conventional cap. My preference would be to retain the original arrangement, but not at any cost. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 2060 Registered: 4-2003 |
You will see the parts for example at: http://www.introcar.co.uk/acatalog/CHASSIS_NUMBERS_07333-42000_1623_1616.html All the majors stock them. They are not expensive. I suggest it is better to stay with the steam valve. They work fine, and at most usually only need a new gasket and o-ring during a radiator service or recore. They are not to be replaced every three years like an SZ type. Incidentally, the SZ type is hardly modern. They date back to numerous early prewar cars, especially on American brands. The steam valve arrangement utilises the header tank as intended. Most conversions I see are effectively downgrading the system by rendering the header tank into a reservoir, almost useless, rather than letting it function as a true header tank. Early SZ headers work alright, but see Tee-One about coolant loss not showing up on the indicator as the header is a blind tank. 20k SZs are far better, but the system would be tricky to implement on an SY. All-in-all, this one is best left alone. Our SY steam valve has always been trouble-free for example. RHT. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1217 Registered: 4-2003 |
Sadly there are number of cars here that have had the header tank on their Shadow butchered to accomodate the popular and perfectly efficient radiator cap. Often the car will have blue HT leads and sometimes extractors! Where does it stop? As Richard says there is no problem with the steam valve - clean it occasionally if you must! The one problem in this area is on the very early cars which used a large valve which is no longer available. The valve mount can be exchanged for a later one which solves the problem! | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 533 Registered: 6-2006 |
Davide, Availability in the UK is good at the moment. About £65 for a Shadow II inc seal and gasket. And a bolt in mod kit for a Shadow I is only about £130. |
