| Author | Message | ||
     KC Saayman Unregistered guest Posted From: 168.210.90.232 |
Hi there My drive belts are past their best, so I would like to replace, and would appreciate any advice you may have. Is it as straight forward as it looks, or are there pitfalls I should be aware off? My Shadow’s (8475) drive belt configuration matches illustration D in the workshop manual, described as “Later refrigerated cars”. It has the following belts: 1) Two belts running on the refrigeration compressor, crankshaft and power steering pump. 2) One belt running on the alternator and coolant pump. 3) Two belts running on the coolant pump, crankshaft and another small pulley between the two, slightly to the right (vehicles right) What is the little pulley between the crankshaft and coolant pump? How do I change this belt? I cannot find a description of how to change the belts in the workshop manual, but they do detail belt tensioning. I look forward to your response. Regards KC | ||
| Bob Uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 195.93.33.11 |
The belts will have a number the first bit is the size of the belt section the second bit in the size to belt around it's circumference which is hard to measure accurately with out special gauge which an engineers supplys or a motor factor or a bearing supplier will have. It is a simple machine. My bearing suppliers has listing for all the RRs after WWII and some before. So brg supply are worth a visit. Where belts are used in pairs they should be a matched pair however due to modern technology belts are more accurate so that you can get away with fitting a new pair that are not matched -----same make and numbers of course. As you have noticed there is more than one belt run set up which depends on the year and the market. To change the belts you do the opposite of tensioning the belts and slacken then off to the fullest extent then take them off. I don't know what the little belt does it may be that you are looking at a jockey pulley that is used for tensioning. It is hard to see that area direct on. The belts will pass through the gap between the fan and the cowling. Depending which power pump you have there are some not so obvious mounting bolts that need to loosened. When loose you should be able to move the pump on the slots by hand my car 17768 has a lever added for a tommy bar for tensioning the belt which does need to be quite tight. Else the pump belt squeals when parking. The other belts I recommend that you have 1 inch of movement total in the middle of the longest run this will allow for the enevitable belt stretch that will occur. --Longer belts more ---shorter belt less. Another way is to use a spring balance is the middle of the longest run or as described in the manual and check the force to deflect the belt a certain amount. garages have a special tool for this. In case you will find that the belts will go slack once they have bedded on the pulleys and the job will need to be adjust after say 50 miles esecally the pas belt(s) Also because the belts have settled in on the pulleys if you did not used match pairs then they will now be like a matched pair. The line up of the pulleys from the side view should spot on with RRs thus giving the belts excellent life. A lot of modern belts are notched these belts can used on RRs with no problems the notches allow the belt to go around a tighter radius and also they deform better on contact with the pulley thus giving better grip which makes uo for the gaps caused by the notches. It makes little difference in this application. None of the sizes used are particular to RR they are general sizes. That does not mean that they have them in stock though It took 2 days for mine to arrive. It is a bit of a fidddle to fit the belts but not hard. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 178 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi KC, Bobs advice is spot-on however the system was designed for imperial dimension belts and I have experienced problems with fitting belts from manufacturers in metric countries as these seem to be a little smaller overall than belts from say USA manufacturers. This can lead to problems getting the first [rearmost] belt over the double pulley groove as once it gets into the outermost groove; it becomes very difficult to lift up and over into the inner groove. The longer belts are much easier but the shorter belts are more prone to this problem. Most important consideration is to avoid damaging the belts during the levering process. Also be careful of the lug on the top of the P/Steering pump which is used to move the pump when tensioning; the welding may not be adequate and the lug can come away under leverage - been there, done that! | ||
| KC Unregistered guest Posted From: 168.210.90.232 |
Thank you very much for the advice gentlemen. I fitted the new drive belts last night, without any problems. The more I work on the car the more I enjoy it. Everything fits properly, and is very well made. Regards KC | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 195.93.33.11 |
As I keep saying the Shaow is a DIY car and the quality assists not hinders. Also a very big bonus is that the parts are available. I heard of a Bristol 406 which needed a screen just one left in Europe £1500 and that was cheap! I have seen many cars like Bristols die a slow death due to parts problems. Glad you found it easy. Hope every thing else is like that |
