| Author | Message | ||
     Carl Jensen Experienced User Username: carl_jensen Post Number: 27 Registered: 2-2005 |
I need to remove my upper ball joints and the manual says to use extractor tool RH 8100 to release the ball pin taper from the yoke. I am hoping to not have to buy this special tool and have tried a couple different sizes of bearing/gear pullers, but they don't seem to work. If you have a workaround for this I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 371 Registered: 6-2006 |
Carl, If you can not get a suitable tool, it is always possible to tap the metal around the pin, not too hard but rapidly a number of times (sometimes 5 or 10, sometimes 100 plus - if you get tired or bored, go and do the other side or go and have a cupper - they will often come off first tap when you return) and the tapered pin will release. Not my preferred method but it will get you out of trouble and is much more preferable than damaging the pin. Just to reiterate, you are NOT slamming it with the biggest hammer you can find, you are tapping it and setting up a vibration which will allow it to pop out. WD40 helps. Leave the nut on 6 threads or so until it pops. You will be tapping the vertical faces of the yoke around the pin, not the nut or pin or ball joint. If you can, hold a second hammer on the opposing face. It will then bounce when you hit the other side giving two taps for your money. This method will also work for track rods etc. (Message edited by paul_yorke on 06 August 2009) (Message edited by paul_yorke on 06 August 2009) | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1151 Registered: 4-2003 |
Paul/ You didn't mention the support of the suspension. Having loosened the nut a few threads, support the car by the body so that the suspension is unsupported. The full pressure of the road spring is then pulling the yoke away from the top suspension arm. The loosened nut allows the yoke to pull clear of the ball joint pin. The same technique is used to release the bottom ball joint. But wait, before you undo the nut having released the ball joint pin, be absolutely sure you put a support under the lower suspension arm and lower the car onto it otherwise we will have to set up a new thread for encomiums! | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 372 Registered: 6-2006 |
Bill, It's late here but support is always welcome. I favour leaving both sides supported at equal heights on the shock damper ball joints. This leaves slight tension on the ball joints but not too much. Both top and bottom will come of that way and no need for jacking it up and down. Mind you, I'm spoilt with a ramp / hoist / lift or whatever they are called in your part of the World. | ||
| Carl Jensen Experienced User Username: carl_jensen Post Number: 28 Registered: 2-2005 |
Thanks everyone. I'll give it a shot. As always, your help is greatly appreciated. Carl. | ||
| Colin Silver Frequent User Username: colsilver Post Number: 55 Registered: 8-2008 |
If you have 24 hours up your sleeve, some Penetrine (Pentitrene) does well for slowly sliding in where it can. It's not as fast as something like WD40, but it is persistent. I haven't seen it for years so don't know if it is still around. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 897 Registered: 4-2003 |
Yes - Penetrene is still available from some specialist auto parts outlets and most engineering/tool suppliers. Far superior to WD40/Inox if allowed time to penetrate stubborn crud. I bought my last supply from Bunnings in Forster NSW | ||
| Bill Payne Experienced User Username: wimpy Post Number: 20 Registered: 1-2007 |
USA has a product called P B Blaster, excellent penetrant, don't know if it's available across the pond. WD40 is really not much of a penetrant, more of a moisture displacer. We are also fortunate in that several auto parts suppliers (Autozone for one) will rent spreaders, ball joint removal tools, etc. |
