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Andrew Lark
New User
Username: drew

Post Number: 4
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Sunday, 21 June, 2009 - 10:59 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The door seals in our Shadow are perishing and need replacing, the wind noise in the cabin above 50 mph is annoying.

I notice seals are available from Flying Spares and similar places for around £90 each, yet I have been quoted $8.69 /metre by Scott's Old Auto Rubber in Melbourne for their item 260.042.

I wonder if anyone can shed any light on replacing the door seals, I would assume the expensive kits from Europe are made to fit with the corners mitred and sealed, whereas the Scott's item is just the profile and cutting, mitring and sealing are up to the installer. I could ask Scott's but I wanted to see if anyone here had already been through this themselves.

Thanks,

Andrew.
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Bill Coburn
Moderator
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 1137
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 21 June, 2009 - 03:21 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Andrew so far I have yet to hear of a satisfactory replacement for door seals other that the Factory items. They are either too hard and you nearly wreck the doors slamming them or they are too stiff in profile and pull away from the body. Unless the seals on your car are in pieces you might like to try a simple but effective alternative which is available in Melbourne. Have a look at Tee One Topics Issue 81 page 1130. Apparently the additional seals have even been used with new Factory seals! The Supplementary seals offered for Spirits generally will not fit the Shadow due to clearances! And if the old seals are not too bad give them a good soak in Armor-All or similar!
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 1755
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 21 June, 2009 - 08:11 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Bill,

The secondary (Supplementary) door seals, Crewe part number UT13535, are intended for all Silver Clouds, Silver Shadows and SZs. They do an outstanding job on all these cars. Of course, they are original fittings on mid-series SZs.

Our 1972 T-Series has had them on all four doors for over a decade now. The seals do a fantastic job of eliminating any wind noise. Particularly, as with all SY cars, with a crosswind and travelling at 70mph, the door flex used to be enough to hear the occasional roar as the seals lifted from the frames. That has been eliminated completely.

The bit on this site at:

http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/1325.html

follows the Tee-One article.

RT.
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 1757
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 21 June, 2009 - 08:49 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

By, the way, here is the profile of the original SY door main seals. I have seen some repair strips offered, with endless promises of success by the vendors, to stick along the edges of these ones, but can't say that I am at all impressed.

RT.
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Andrew Lark
New User
Username: drew

Post Number: 6
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Thursday, 25 June, 2009 - 03:33 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks for the replies. For some reason the forum system didn't email me to announce replies so my apologies for my late response.

My door seals are quite perished, with cracks and holes visible almost everywhere I look.

Scott's Auto Rubber got back to me, their product is sold by the metre and you have to mitre and seal the joins yourself. They sell the required adhesive. The good news is I have discovered on closer inspection that there is only one join on the front door (I didn't get time to look at the back door.)

The idea of secondary seals is interesting, I will give this a closer look.

Has anyone else used the Scott's seals?

Thanks again,

Andrew.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 349
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Thursday, 25 June, 2009 - 04:24 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Andrew, there is a 45 degree mitre in one corner.

The last R-R seals I bought had a moulded mitre and then a loose end to cut to size and glue. Add a soft foam inside to glue the two hollow ends together. (Originally, they were a complete loop)

I'm not too sure how well you will do gluing a mitre, it's at one of the worst points for pressure.