| Author | Message | |||
     Jan Forrest Yet to post message Username: got_one Post Number: 1 Registered: 1-2008 |
Hail and well met Antipodean chums. I have a query that is barely mentioned, much less described in reasonable detail, in the workshop manual. I've only had my '76 Shadow for a few months but I've already had it converted to LPG. Assuming the current MPG and price differential it should pay back the cost in a little over 2 years. Fine by me as I'm hoping to keep it for the rest of my motoring lifetime. It has never been capable of starting from cold on gas but, considering it can get a bit bracing at this time of year here in Blighty, I'll let it off ... for now. (Mind you I did get a 'dose' of hypothermia when I was in Belgium just before Christmas!) Anyhoo: I intend to uprade/update the main ignition components as the dry gas is harder to ignite than wet petrol so any weakness in the spark results in poor burning hence less power and/or higher fuel consumption. Prior to the conversion I had roughly calculated an MPG (Imperial, not US) of about 14 and, on a 200+ mile run to Belgium and back, 11 on LPG. Even with these figures the Old Girl is still running far cheaper than on petrol. So far I've checked the distributor & cap and found both to be fairly new and part of an electronic setup with Hall-effect positioning sensors - so I'm leaving that alone. The next job is to replace the plugs and leads. I can see that some of the plugs will be a complete bas*ard to get at. As for the leads ... Oy Veh! Since I have no intention of buying 'factory' leads, but will get a new set made up for me from higher spec materials but at a much lower price, my first question is (you were thinking I'd never get around to one, weren't you?) how long are the individual leads? While I'm in the swing of things I'll get straight on with the second question: Have any of you got any hints/tips regarding removal/replacement of the same? Thanks in advance Old Boys (and Young Girls). Go with God, Jan | |||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 949 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jan/ As to plug leads I would be suprised if you do not have a service as we have under here for new leads. You have undoubtedly priced new leads from the Factory. Apparently they are made by our beloved Sovereign on Sunday and She incurs a special penalty rate to boot! The cost is slightly explained by the fact that the leads come complete with their holders and funnels as I call them. Here I call Thundercords an evocative name is it not! They know the length of every lead devised by man. I give them the model and the leads arrive terminated at one end, with the number sleeves loosely placed on each one and a little bag of the terminals for the other end. I then pull off the old leads cut them pull off the funnels and holders thread up the new leads terminate them (I have bought a clincher) and refit them after I have used my garage hair dryer to heat shrink the number sleeves. The funnels and holders I not only clean but give a good dousing in ArmourAll. It is well to have a good look at funnels and holders early as they are still available. They can get very brittle and generally claggy. They are not difficult to fit. (If you want bastardry try fitting a set to a Cloud which requires removal of the starter!!!) The worst part for my aged brain is threading them through the conduits that bolt onto the engine. Being young and clever you will work out the sequence to thread them before you do it! Clean the engine particularly at the back before hand. You could well find that the tappet covers are leaking at the back end and it is a good time to re-gasket them (consider neprene moulded ones). Clean up the throttle trapeze and don't lose any bits of it. The bolts at the back of the heads are really quite accessable (by RR standards). | |||
| Jan Forrest New User Username: got_one Post Number: 3 Registered: 1-2008 |
Hi, Bill. Thanks for the response. I've looked into the leads that Thundercords supply ie Magnacors. From what I've read on the forum they seem to cost a little over AU$100 'down' there. With an exchange rate of AU$2.11 to GB£1 this would be a very good price. However the actual cost over here is GB£125 - Equivalent to AU$275  - or more! Rip-off Britain, or what? In the long run it might just be economical to by a proper crimper to make up my own leads but, with a crimper being the price of 2 of these sets of leads ...  I know full well the *Kerching* look that passes over a parts/servicing agent's face when you mention Rolls Royce. I could remove the leads and other gubbins and take them to a local motor factors and have new ones made up to fit but that would take my only car off the road while they do it. Even in Blighty all the nearest factors (well, to me at least) are a decent taxi ride away. All more expense. Until then I'll just have to ask them a) if they can make me a decent set and b) How much? I'll keep in touch, Jan. | |||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 116 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Jan, I think the copy ones I fit (UK) are about £65 + the dreaded.(last set I used) Pretty good quality and fit in the conduits etc. (some can be too big) If using copy sets - I'd recommend you Take both sides off and match them to length because sometimes you can guess wrong lengths where they go to the opposite side of the distributor cap. I think Bill was referring to the rocker cover gaskets (?) and would definitely agree with him that you should check them. | |||
| Jan Forrest New User Username: got_one Post Number: 4 Registered: 1-2008 |
My main current problem is that, following a series of serious infections/illnesses from the Thursday before Xmas until the 7th of January (hospitalized from 2:00am on Xmas eve and barely conscious until Boxing Day afternoon ) I am left very weak. My GP says that as at least one of them was so life-threatening at the time that it could be weeks - or even months - before I'm back to my previous level of relative fitness . Yesterday I was able to check/top-up the fluid levels and even fix the cruise control. The latter being just an LPG hose dragging on the front of the bellows and merely involved pulling it up an inch and fixing it in position with a cable tie. Then I did a load of washing, put it to dry and I was shattered! Even so I owe my life to: Firstly my late wife for getting me out of a nice, warm, comfy bed just as I was drifting off to sleep and influencing me into putting 'a few things' into a carrier bag and paying GB£13 for a taxi to the local A&E and: Secondly to the professional and efficient NHS staff - doctors, nurses and acillary staff - of Rotherham District General Hospital for diagnosing and curing my septicaemia before it could damage any of my major organs. Considering that many consider themselves fortunate to lose 'just' the odd limb or several I came out with all my limbs and digits intact  As time goes by I intend to do more to the Old Girl - catch the few very minor rust spots, fit new rear springs, overhaul the brakes, check and bleed the hydraulic systems, etc, etc. It is my intention that (BIG lottery wins aside) this is the last car I will ever need; then she can be passed on to a new generation of guardianship. | |||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 15 Registered: 1-2008 |
In case anyone might be interested I have finally removed the high tension leads from my Series 1 Shadow and measured them. The dimensions including the dizzie cap conductors and the plug connectors are: Bank A Lead 1:.....1050mm Lead 2:.....1000mm Lead 3:......850mm Lead 4:......850mm Bank B Lead 1:.....1030mm Lead 2:.....1000mm Lead 3:......900mm Lead 4:......800mm King Lead 260mm I don't know if quality 8mm leads can be bought ready cut to length Down Under as they can be in Blighty but if they can a huge saving can be made! | |||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 16 Registered: 1-2008 |
I've finally fitted the new leads and "new/old" plugs (Champion N14-Y). Apart from somehow transposing 2 leads at the dizzie end, which was soon fixed, it all went swimmingly ... ish! According to the workshop manual on cars up to build number 22,000-odd the plug gap should be 25 thou and 30 thou thereafter. As my car is number 24,000+ and I normally run The Old Girl on LPG I knocked a couple of thou off this latter figure and set them at 28 thou. Unfortunately she seems to run a little rough on acceleration from rest - at least on petrol as my LPG tank is all but empty until I can get it refilled. It's a soft roughness if you know what I mean Could this be down to my car having the later contactless ignition off some other model? Any other ideas, chums? | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1348 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jan, A friend’s 1989 Turbo R developed an occasional misfire some months back. After checking whatever we could, I figured that the ignition leads may have passed out and ordered a new set for just under £100 with VAT and shipping. Disaster. They sent the wrong kit. Out of desperation I decided to make a set myself as the days were passing. The leads cost maybe AU$10 themselves, but the Bosch caps maybe $60 for the whole set. I wanted new caps to be sure of a fine result. After a few hours downstairs in the garage, Bingo. Problems Solved. I have similar reports on our ’54 R, ’72 T and ’87 Turbo R. RT. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1350 Registered: 4-2003 |
ps: do switch to NGK BPR4ES or BPR5ES plugs. Even better are BPR4EVX (expensive but good for 100,000 miles plus) for all Crewe cars from the S2 to all SZs. The newer NGK Iridium G-series plugs are even better still. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1351 Registered: 4-2003 |
Plugs: it applies to earlier cars in the meantime also, from the MkVI onwards.
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| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 17 Registered: 1-2008 |
I've had little opportunity to make extensive tests today (hospital appointments, etc). The problem is the same on LPG as on petrol and I've narrowed it down to a misfire on cylinder B1. If I get the chance I'll swap the plug for another some time tomorrow. On the next plug change I think I'll try the NGKs. From opinions on the UK LPG forum I doubt I'll bother with any of the platinum or iridium tipped plugs as they (allegedly) give no better performance or longevity over more standard plugs. | |||
| Jan Forrest Experienced User Username: got_one Post Number: 18 Registered: 1-2008 |
Oy Veh! what a mistake-a to make-a Just pulled the plug from B1 to change it for a new one and decided to recheck the gap first ... 28 thou? It was nearer to 68 thou!!!??? Also, while doing this, I finally noticed that 2 of my feeler gauge blades were stuck together so I'll have to pull all the other plugs and recheck their gaps. Do I feel a proper (ba)nana, or what? Anyhoo: Many thanks to all those who offered advice. Give yourselves of hefty pat on the back. | |||
| Jan Forrest Frequent User Username: got_one Post Number: 100 Registered: 1-2008 |
Just for those of us in Blighty or close thereto: I've just managed to order a set of NGK BPR5EIX spark plugs for only £47.17 inc. postage! The supplier can be found on eBay UK under the name "autoorders". | |||
| Jan Forrest Prolific User Username: got_one Post Number: 103 Registered: 1-2008 |
Oops! My mistake. The plugs are actually BKR5EIX. The only difference is that they need a 5/8" plug spanner compered to the 13/16" of the P variant. As you might expect I don't currently own a 5/8" plug spanner and I'm now off out to buy one!  |
