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KC Saayman
Frequent User
Username: kc_saayman

Post Number: 57
Registered: 10-2004
Posted on Monday, 02 July, 2007 - 08:32 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello all

Please help me with this problem. The car is a 1974 Silver Shadow SRH19461.

For a while now I have experienced the following problem. When I start the car in the morning it fires up as normal, runs for a few minutes and then sputters and dies. I restart, and the car is fine for the rest of the day (car is in daily use)

It usually happens as I drive out the gate, but on the odd occasion it happens about 5 minutes into my journey. It always restarts fine and never happens again that day.

This morning it happened again, but would not start again. I cannot hear the fuel pump, so I think the problem is either with the pump, or with some cut-out device that is faulty.

With the above information, can anyone offer any advice? Is there a cut-out device that cuts power to the fuel pump? If so, where do I find it? How do I check it?

I do have the workshop manuals but don’t know what to look for.

Kind regards

KC
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 732
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 03 July, 2007 - 12:27 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi KC,

Sounds familiar to me - do you hear the fuel pumps start ticking when you turn the ignition on BEFORE you start the engine? If yes, need to do some further detective work. If no, leave the ignition on without starting the engine and give the fuel pump under the car a tap with a lump of wood or similar; if the pump starts ticking, your problem is dirty/worn points in the fuel pump. The engine will start on whats left of the petrol in the carburettor but the fuel pump is not delivering replacement fuel until some vibration or higher voltage from the battery after a short recharge activates the pump.

The overhaul procedure for the fuel pumps is in the Shadow Workshop Manual TSD2476 Section K2.

If this is not the problem, I would be checking your battery condition as there may be too much voltage drop when you start the car to activate the fuel pump. If the voltage is 11V or more when starting then give some attention to the carburettor fuel filters, needle valves and damper operation. See section K4 of the manual.

If this doesn't work, please advise what you did and the results so we can start thinking of other possibilities.

kind regards David
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KC Saayman
Frequent User
Username: kc_saayman

Post Number: 58
Registered: 10-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 03 July, 2007 - 06:55 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks David, you have hit the nail on the head. A light tap with a little hammer on the fuel pump got it working again. I will look into overhauling it.

Regards

KC
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Peter Colwell
Experienced User
Username: peter_colwell

Post Number: 49
Registered: 3-2005
Posted on Wednesday, 04 July, 2007 - 06:27 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just a little emergency tip if your SU pump stops in a difficult position in traffic etc....quite often turning the ignition off and on again instantly, will reactivate the pump.

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Philip Sproston
New User
Username: phil2025

Post Number: 4
Registered: 7-2006
Posted on Friday, 06 July, 2007 - 04:34 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

KC Had the same problem ,found the ign / fuel pump fuse was dirty and was getting hot on the holding clips. Tested the fuse with a test light did not show faulty.Fuse lifting tag showed signs of melting.Check the blue paper is not missing between the row of fuses and clean the holding clips and fuse with wet and dry paper. This problem cost a 30K tow job and a lot of time.
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bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: client-86-29-88-159.brig.adsl.tesco.net
Posted on Monday, 23 July, 2007 - 06:24 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Before the pumps are stripped down try this.

Disconnect the pipe from the tank and plug with a bolt.

then disconnect the pipe that goes to the carbs.

Disconnect the ignition coil.

Turn ignition on

The pumps should now run very fast. If not give them ( double acting ) a tap with an 'ammer 'andle.

The idea is that when the points on the pump open and shut they slide across one another ( they are designed to do this ) This keeps the electrical plaque off them.

By running the pump fast for say 10 minutes the points get lots of use and clean them selves.

The pump is not lubricated by fuel. But excessive running say 1 hour could over heat the pump windings. ( over hand hot )

The pump is not complicated but easily damaged and mal- adjusted so read the manual before strip down all parts come from Burlen Services.

Replace the fuel hoses with Smiths braided petrol pipe as per original or something as equal such as Goodrich.

I fit new petrol hoses and clips as a matter of course.

Disconnecting the coil stops the ballast resistor from burning out which is another Shadow trick which puts the car on a tow truck


(Message approved by david_gore)