| Author | Message | ||
     John M. Garland Yet to post message Username: affablegent Post Number: 1 Registered: 5-2007 |
Gentlemen: Om my 45 min. drive to work, the heat gauge on my '89 Chrysler TC suddenly popped up half way between normal and H. It alerted me to a problem, prevented a breakdown, and made me realize that RR's 30-seconds-until-meltdown approach is inadequate. What do you recommend as a heat gauge to replace the clocks in my 1980 Camargue --JRL50479C -- and my 1968 Shadow MPW fixed-head coupe -- CRX6037--? I want something to look as close to "what the Factory would have done" as possible. If RR V-8's run unusually hot, do I need a special sending unit? Thanks in advance. Cordially, John Garland | ||
| Paul Yorke Experienced User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 45 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hello John, The tidiest way to do it would be to lose the time clocks ( - do you wear a watch? ) and fit a gauge in there. What gauges / dash board layouts do you have at the moment, can you post pictures of it? | ||
| John Kilkenny Experienced User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 40 Registered: 6-2005 |
On your 68 Shadow you can easily replace the cigar lighter with another instrument and retain the attractive clock. I have added a VDO tachometer on my 66 Shadow  | ||
| bob Unregistered guest Posted From: client-86-29-86-238.brig.adsl.tesco.net |
The amp meter could be replaced with a temperature gauge. The sender unit normally used would be the standard Lucas generic sender used in many brit cars of the peroid ( except Gm vauxhall and Ford ) An obvious choice would be a Mini because some has a soup-plate dash with an indentical looking in style of a gauge that would match the fuel gauge quite nicley. The parts that are needed are the sender, fuel gauge and voltage stabilzer. You may be able to use the exsisting stabilzer which is working the fuel gauge. However to save any problems I would fit a new stablizer because they are cheap and smaller than a match box. One terminal of the gauge goes to the stabilzer and the other gauge terminal goes to the sender. Green wires. Green with white tracer for sender. The gauge case is earthed only so that the instrument light works Black earth red live from dash lights. The stabilzer has 2 terminal one to the gauge green and one to an ignition live source the green feed wire to the exsisting stabilzer. Do not connect to the exsisting stablizer output because you will have a stablzer running another stabilzer and the temperature gauge will read low. If the front area of the inlet mainfold is examined you will notice various blanking plugs. One of these goes directly into the bit of the manifold that connects the the water jackets of the two cylinder heads together. This thread fits the sender directly. Which is very handy of RR to fit all V8s so that they can fit temp gauges if customer were to require one. These parts are available new from Mini specalist and may even from LUCAS outlets. sender £5 guage £25 stabilizer £15 approx The wire going to the sender needs a BLACK sleave just to give it that factory look and sloder a spade with one of those neat clear plastic lucar covers crimped blue ones work well but look awfull The amp meter being the same stlye means that the gauge light will fit direct into the temperate guage. smiths or lucas NOT VDO. The amp meter is shunt operated which means that when the gauge reads say 30 amps there is not 30 amps going throug the gauge the shunt takes say 25 amps and the gauge 5 amps. The two wires to the amp gauge are connected together and well insulated because they are LIVE ALL THE TIME. Of course you may wish to fit in place of fag lighter or what ever else. Ampmeter are handy but no amps is not going to wreak the engine where as overheat will. (Message approved by david_gore) |
