| Author |
Message |
    
E R Shirk
Yet to post message
Username: shirk1
Post Number: 1
Registered: 3-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, 08 April, 2004 - 01:53 pm: |    |
Can anyone tell me how to disconnect the front leveling system on my 1967 MPW RR? The front leveling system has begun leaking. I was advised that the front systm was not needed and should be disconnected. |
David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore
Post Number: 234
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, 08 April, 2004 - 08:06 pm: | |
Robert Chapman can you help please as I do not have any experience with the factory modification - if I were doing it from scratch; I would use a suitable ball bearing to fit inside each front ram fluid connection inlet; give the ball a gentle tap with a drift to seat it in the housing and then reinstall the pipe/male retainer and tighten to specification. |
Robert Chapman
Prolific User
Username: shadow
Post Number: 44
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, 08 April, 2004 - 10:17 pm: | |
David,
I agree,the steel ball method is the easiest and safest.The problem is there are three fluid lines to be closed off since we do not know where the leak is coming from.
1. High pressure supply.
2. Low pressure return.
3. Solenoid signal pressure.
I think the best method would be to close off all three lines up stream of all componants e.g Rams, height control valve and roll restrictor valve. Three steel balls can be fitted in the connectors that join the steel pipes to the three flex hoses at the front of the sub frame(that is before the flex hoses)in case one of the hoses is the leak.Also one steel ball fitted into the high pressure feed to the roll restrictor valve (in case the valve is leaking).This assumes that the leak is not coming from any of the steel pipe work or fittings.I believe it would be a good idea to identify the source of the leak first. |
E R Shirk
New User
Username: shirk1
Post Number: 2
Registered: 3-2004
| | Posted on Friday, 09 April, 2004 - 12:08 pm: | |
Dave & Robert:
Thanks for the information. I appreciate the time and effort you put into your responce.
Ed |
Charlie Jagneaux
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 68.212.62.201
| | Posted on Thursday, 02 December, 2004 - 11:15 am: | |
What is the result of disconnecting the front leveling system? Does the car handle differently ie. cornering? I read part of an article on a used Shadow that complained of the "body lean" in corners. Could this be the result of a "dead" leveling system?
Also- where are the rest of the bolts hoding the starter in place? That is besides the two which are visible? SRX 9623
(Message approved by david_gore) |
Charlie Jagneaux
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 68.212.60.27
| | Posted on Tuesday, 07 December, 2004 - 03:28 pm: | |
Does the self leveling system work to and fro or side to side as in cornering lean? Wouldn't progressive wound springs accomplish the same thing?
Is there a supplier for progr. springs? I'm beginning to believe the RR S. Shadow was a make work project to bring down unemployment because of the complexity for perhap little reason.
(Message approved by david_gore) |
David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore
Post Number: 342
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 08 December, 2004 - 10:05 am: | |
Hi Charlie,
The additional bolts for the starter motor are accesssible from the front of the vehicle over the top of the lower RHS suspension arm. You need a long extension arm [18inch/450mm] and universal joint to get a socket onto the studs. Note the main earthing strap is [should be!!] attached to one of the studs and MUST be replaced when reinstalling the starter motor. I cannot recall whether there are one or two bolts from the front or vice-versa from the transmission side - I ended up removing all possible studs in the vicinity of the starter motor from both sides to find the right ones!
Information on how to disconnect the front self-levelling system and the reasons why the factory did this as an after-sale modification are given above. Basically, the system does nothing for the levelling of the car which was the original reason for installing it and has adverse effects on the handling. I suggest you use the "SEARCH" facility on this forum using the keywords "front self-levelling" and this should reveal other posts in different topics on this subject.
I do not believe progressive rate springs will do anything to improve the handling of a Shadow - one of our contributors, Robert Chapman has developed a package of suspension components that transform the car [usual disclaimers apply - I am just passing on information from satisfied Club members who have installed his kits] and you can get more information and contact him direct through his website as below:
http://www.rachapmanautomotive.com.au/
(Message edited by david_gore on December 08, 2004) |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 707
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Friday, 22 April, 2005 - 12:56 am: | |
Just to explain the handling issue, the front levelling has only one control valve. On a sweeping bend, the fluid would slowly transfer from one ram to the other. On straightening up, the cars would have a list to starboard for some time.
If this car has been within a bull's roar of a dealer or specialist since 1972 or so, it would already have been blanked off. Otherwise there would be puddles of hydraulic fluid on your garage floor by now. You can't tell by looking at it unless the pipework has been removed for housekeeping purposes.
To my knowledge, spares were discontinued in the early 1970s.
RT. |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 708
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Friday, 22 April, 2005 - 01:33 am: | |
Cornering improvements ? The cheapest and easiest way to achieve most of the result is to buy and bolt on a secondhand Turbo R antiroll bar. They sell for around A$100 in the UK, and I know of many UK owners who swear by this simple part swap.
It will still leave the rear end a little soft, but that's on the safe side as standard cars are a little skittish anyhow. If you have ever spun your Shadow you will know what I mean.
The replacement antiroll bar vastly reduces body roll. Australian-delivered cars have no rear antiroll bar as the road springs are all special stiffer ones than in those destined for most markets. Those cars benefit from a standard UK-spec rear antiroll bar to even up the stiffening, but is not entirely necessary. They are sold at giveaway prices in the UK. |
Mark Tomlinson
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 203.164.20.11
| | Posted on Tuesday, 15 July, 2003 - 08:07 pm: | |
The ss1 srh2524 I have bought recently has had its self levelling system disconnected and I would like to get some information of the main possible reason for this if there is one and a diagram or similar to tell me what if anything has been removed? Can anyone help? |
David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore
Post Number: 69
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, 15 July, 2003 - 09:53 pm: | |
Mark,
Your front suspension self-levelling would have been removed as a factory modification early in the life of your car as it was found the front system did not do anything for the car and was superfluous.
The rear self-levelling is more important as it plays a vital role in minimising wear in the rear drive components forming part of the independent rear suspension. The Detroit trunnions used inboard at the differential are designed to operate at equal deflection angles either side of their neutral axis and as the load in the rear of the car will vary depending on fuel load, number of passengers and luggage/boot contents; the rear hydraulic self-levelling system compensates for these varying loads to keep the trunnion joints at the right position. Owners of cars with faulty self-levelling systems often blank off the hydraulic pipes to the height control valves with ball bearings rather than incurring the cost of repairs however this is false economy as the increased wear on the trunnions and their housings eventually results in much greater repair costs to either the "bust & fix" owner or more likely an unsuspecting new owner who purchased the car not knowing the importance of the self-levelling system. The usual problems requiring repairs are overhaul of the height adjustment valves and overhaul of the hydraulic rams to rectify fluid leaks. If the rear springs have sagged [a common problem], they should also be replaced with the after-market heavy duty springs available at very reasonable prices from the various suppliers around Australia. A good set of repairable shock absorbers from Club member Robert Chapman [see link on Home Page of this website] is also worthy of consideration.
Hope you enjoy your new acquisition and I would appreciate you posting a summary of your experience with your self-levelling system as you proceed. If you are in NSW, please consider joining our Club and attending our Self-Help Days where you can get advice and asistance from fellow Shadow owners. |
Mark Tomlinson
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 203.164.20.179
| | Posted on Tuesday, 15 July, 2003 - 10:19 pm: | |
I have been in touch with Mr Chapman for the components to overhaul the front end and so far he seems to be the only person who is a straight shooter apart from the mechanic, ( Sydney is a terrible place when trying to get honest answers ). I live at Lethbridge Park a suburb of Mt Druitt and will join as soon as I feel the car is up to scratch as this has to be my first priority, thank you for your input and I look forward to meeting you all at a later date. |
David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore
Post Number: 70
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 16 July, 2003 - 12:53 am: | |
Mark,
You don't have to get your car up to scratch, join now and get some help [and honest answers!!] from the Shadow enthusiasts in the NSW Branch, dare I say, myself included. Our monthly meetings give you the opportunity to meet owners and discuss current work/get advice on proposed work. We have a large number of "road warrior" cars which are driven rather than being a "garage queen" which appears only on special occasions and these cover every standard from well-worn to pristine examples so your car will not be out-of-place. Our Self-Help Days are intended to encourage you to understand the importance of maintenance regardless of whether you do-it-yourself or use a professional mechanic. We have a number of enthusiastic do-it-yourselfers who are always ready to help a newcomer with advice and training on looking after their car. |
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