| Author | Message | ||
     Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 554 Registered: 9-2004 |
Assuming the hand brake linkage was set up correctly when new handbrake pads were fitted. The simple way to adjust when the pads are partly worn is as follows. First chock the front wheels then put the gear selector in "N". Have the rear wheels jacked so as to rotate freely. Tighten the hex nut[picture] clockwise untill the road wheel is just starting to bind [stop]. When in this position turn back four clicks this will then give the required free play within the the handbrake pads. Carry out the same on the other side. The handbrake should give 20%+ if all is working ok. Most important to grease all points on the clevises etc.  | ||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Frequent User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 82 Registered: 5-2007 |
My handbrake appears not to be disengaging properly. The cable hangs loose in the engine bay near the starter relay - no shorts yet thank heavens. I suspect that something further down the line is not moving or is out of whack. Any suggestions for where to start looking ? Jeff SRH20280 1974 Silver Shadow | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 225 Registered: 6-2006 |
Jeffrey, I would add to Pat's post - The rear handbrake cables sticking are also a cause of the handbrake not returning quickly. Adjusting the rear when the cables are sticking will only cause them to wear out again. (IMHO Parking brake adjustment should be performed immediately before and MOT and then afterwards (just that rolling brake tester will wear them enough to need adjusting. Then use Park ))But that is not a reason not to have it working. While the rear handbrake adjustment is loose Pull the inner cable at the rear cable cover ( the convoluted cover on the right hand side of Pat's photo). Then pull it at the same place on the other side. They should slide freely back and forth. Do the same at the front & rear of each cable. Once again they should be fairly free. If any binding is found , then it's best to remove the cables and work oil into the cable from one end until it seeps out of the other end. (this can take hours, add some oil, work it , leave it.) Do it sooner rather than later, once it's very tight - a new cable is needed. | ||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Frequent User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 83 Registered: 5-2007 |
Paul - when you say to remove the cables am I right in assuming it is the rear cables from the brakes to the lever arrangement where the front cable operates the lever. Is this difficult ? I'll have a search through the manual and a closer look at the car in the morning but I've no idea how to go about removing them. So far I've tried oiling the cable where it enters the tube which covers part of it but obviously no improvement. Persistance I guess is the key. Thanks for the advice so far. Jeff | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 226 Registered: 6-2006 |
Jeffrey, Sorry - I forgot to add that you need to remove them. Hang them up vertically to get the oil to run down to the other end. Come off OK except the nut at the rear spring cup seizes, Hold the threaded part. | ||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Frequent User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 84 Registered: 5-2007 |
Paul - I figured out by playing with the lever mechanism that the single cable was catching in the forward part of the set-up. I fixed it by putting oil on the little pulley wheel in the engine bay and running the cable back and forth to get oil into the shaft. I imagine there was a burr on the cable or some grot somewhere that just needed a bit of lubrication. Many thanks for the continuing help. cheers, Jeff | ||
| bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 80.6.168.241 |
Please note On my car srh 17768 1974 Shadow. The hand brake cable loops over a pulley by the starter relay on the bulk head. If when the handle is released the cable does not return due to it sticking somewhere. a loop will come off the pulley short out on the relay and cause a fire. so watch out for this. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1024 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well I can offer some current advice. Last Saturday I spent some time getting the rear cables adjusted so that the equaliser was running nicely east and west on the car. All seemed well and the hand brake got a series of pretty smart pulls. When I finished I was checking the primary cable and noticed a few broken strands between the two pulleys. Sunday saw the car out and performing well. Got home pulled the Handbrake on and it came out to the stops! Clearly the cable was on the way when I started but you learn the hard way. The other clue to impending breakage is that the handbrake would not stay right in which caused the light to come on! Jeffrey if your cable has even one strand broken it is on the way repair it. Any licensed brake shop will make up a new cable at about a quarter the price of a new one but you have to give them the old cable. | ||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Frequent User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 87 Registered: 5-2007 |
It seems to be happening intermittently - I oil it then it works okay for a while then it sticks again - with the loop hanging around the relay area. I can't see any obvious wear or broken strands but much of it is hidden from view. I'll put it on the to-do-sooner-not-later list. No doubt otherwise it will decide to retire at the very moment I need to park on a 40 degree slope :-) Now to figure out why the horn has suddenly stopped working... | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 231 Registered: 6-2006 |
Jeffery, There is a rubber seal at the top of the front cable which makes it nearly impossible to get lubrication inside the cable without removing either the cable or at least taking the the rubber part off. It's a cone shaped rubber. Did you check the rear cables as well? Not sure I'd trust any on a 40 degree slope though! ;) Bill, did your cable actually snap, or did your nipple slip out?  | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1025 Registered: 4-2003 |
Gosh Paul that's a personal question!!! Actually by the feel of the handle I guess the cable has snapped but is still together if you follow me. When I get it out my concern is knowing the length. Would you have a figure? It is a '72 SS. | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 232 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Bill, I think that they are the same for all the Shadows. I've just taken one off a Shadow II we're recycling (Coincidentally it was an Australian spec one with black indicator & gear shift stalks, and full emission kit on. Never made it to OZ though and the owner rusted it to death  ) I'll have a measure | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1026 Registered: 4-2003 |
That's great. My mentor who has done lots tells me that the cable people seem to know how long they are but since my guy who will do this always gets the brake hoses slightly longer than the originals it would be nice to have a dimension. | ||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Frequent User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 88 Registered: 5-2007 |
Hi Paul - I checked the rear cables and all looked fine - I went over it with a torch and a magnifying glass. The problem seems to be just where the cable enters that little rubber cone, which is darned hard to get to to check. Is it easier from underneath the car ? | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 234 Registered: 6-2006 |
Not much easier but a bit. It's more of a feeling game than looking. Pull on the free cable and see if it springs back on it's own etc. | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 235 Registered: 6-2006 |
Bill, this one seems to be 1810mm from centre of clevis pin to the inside of the nipple. Hope this helps. Paul. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1027 Registered: 4-2003 |
Paul/ Many thanks. I'm sure this is a first for me although I know I have had the actual handle bit to pieces. And of course this is yet another bit that must be well beyond its use by date for lo only two days ago a drophead sailed in with a very frayed cable near the pulleys yet still working although the thing won't retract enough to turn the light out. The owner wants it fixed as he is fed up with passenger queries as to why is the light on. | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 236 Registered: 6-2006 |
Bill, if you can get your hand in there, I think you can get the nipple back in without taking it apart or off. It kind of wants to go back in , if you know what I mean. Good luck with it. LOL at the Owner. Not worried about the cable breaking. Not worried about the additional wear to the parking brake pads. Not even worried about the cable sticking, shorting out and setting fire to the car. . . . . but God forbid - somebody might think there was something wrong with his car!!! |
