| Author | Message | ||
     Eric Molenaar New User Username: aussiewraith78 Post Number: 5 Registered: 06-2021 |
G'day All, I purchased LRH32854 earlier this year feb21 and everything worked. As soon as i got her home i changed the engine oil and filter aswell as the air filter. Today was a day I'd rather forget.Blood, Sweat and nearly tears. I decided to change the spark plugs and after much research on these forums felt ready to tackle the job..OMG! I decided to tackle "B4" and "B3" first. B4 was tricky but did manage it with a bit of time and even the new plug went in ok. But B3 well that took my skin made me bleed and i simply had to walk away and have a cup of tea before i cried and that was just getting it out. I snapped the porcelain and was in a world of pain with half a plug broken and the other half well in the cylinder head but did finally manage to get it and now for putting the ruddy thing back in took hours, i just couldn't believe the time consumed for this one bugger of a plug but finally success. The other two B1 and B2 were easier, thank goodness. Time to tackle "A"Bank. I decided to take the air hose off as well as the air horn well i think that is what that black metal thing is and the whole job on this side was a breeze, my faith restored and was happy just to actually get my hand in there and defo make sure the plugs were not cross threaded. Job done car runs smooth as glass. Only one question my outside air gauge is going from extreme left or cold when engine off and when i start the car goes to extreme right and the needle bounces where before read the accurate temp. Have i knocked a sensor or a wire by doing the plugs? From what i have read the sensor is by the radiator and i was no where near there. Whilst doing the plugs i found the rocker cover bolts and exhaust manifold bolts needed tweaking as they were a bit loose. Thanks for taking the time to read my tale.. Thank goodness for iridium plugs means its a job for next custodian because i should hopefully be pushing up Daisy's before this job has to be tackled again. Regards Eric. | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 296 Registered: 07-2018 |
It sounds like one of these was needed. I don't own a Shadow, but I think if you remove the front wheels, there is also an access panel one can remove to get at those hard to reach plugs. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.  | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2286 Registered: 05-2012 |
I sympathize with Eric - so much so I made a bench that rests on the two suspension turrets with strategically positioned blind holes to accommodate the shock absorber nuts. This makes changing B3 and B4 a doddle - just climb onto the bench and reach down from above. It is also great for any work between the rear of the engine and firewall and the coil assembly. I recently replaced the bonnet pads on my car and although you can reach the mounting screws it was so much easier using the bench - particularly refitting the new ones, as the metal frame has to be coaxed into position whilst refitting the screws.  | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3229 Registered: 06-2009 |
I sympathize, too, but I also suspect that a thorough review of the various "how to" posts on this forum, RollsRoyceForums.com, and in the Tee-One Topics archive would have made the whole affair much less stressful. I've done it now several times, sans bench, and there are other things I've had to do that were much more challenging. The above being said, after I saw Geoff's posting of his bench, I made a far less pretty version for myself. I ended up not using it as initially intended, but in between engine-straddling it's really, really handy as a step up for working in the engine bay from the side of the car. And I'm over 6 feet tall, and it still makes dealing with the engine bay from the side much, much easier when used as a step-up platform. Brian | ||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 436 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well I can say you have done a lot better than me. I have changed the plugs on my Camilla but have not changed out B3-B4 because I can't get my big hands in there. I've resigned myself to letting Tony at UK motors do those two next time I take her in. Your not the only one who has had to tackle changing the plugs,... Graham. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 4020 Registered: 04-2003 |
Personally, I never used a universal joint when removing/replacing the B3 and B4 spark plugs as I found a "wobble joint" extension combination worked best as it didn't "wind-up" in a twist like the universal joint as the initial loosening torque was being applied. | ||
| Mark Tennison New User Username: fixstuff Post Number: 38 Registered: 11-2020 |
Another tip works for me when putting the plugs back is to use a length of rubber hose that fits tight around the ceramic part of the spark plug, then poke the sparkplug passed the obstacles in to its hole and spin the hose to get the plug on to most of its threads this ensures you not cross threaded, then pull rubber hose off and do final nipping up, I use 1/4" drive bar/s with a specific magnetic sparkplug socket | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 752 Registered: 10-2008 |
I use the same method as Mark. 1/4 drive wobble bars are easier than 3/8 , and 1/2 inch are near impossible. Spirit B3 & B4 are no better ! Mark | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3230 Registered: 06-2009 |
Here's what I posted on RollsRoyceForums.com: Removing and Installing Spark Plugs on the RR/Bentley V8 - Tips and Tricks If you can get a wobble extension with a regular spark plug socket to work, that would be preferable to universal joints, as I do recall the "flop around" issue. I didn't have wobble extensions at the time, but I do now. Brian | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 704 Registered: 11-2017 |
I won't put a socket on a plug until several turns are established. My go to helpers are short 3" hose and plug tool that is basically a long fiberglass type screwdriver with a spark plug boot to secure the plug. I also found a swab with silicone eases the boot easily until it clicks to the post. 1/4" drive is all you need, the torque to set is low. It's not going anywhere | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3231 Registered: 06-2009 |
Robert J. Sprauer:
Here's some clarification regarding what I've said so far. For most of us what we do removing versus what we do when replacing are two different things and I'm no exception to that general rule. I took the gist of this topic to be primarily on removal at the outset, and focused on that. And a socket is used to commence that process. Contrast that with putting one back in, and I have used the "use a piece of hose" method to prevent cross threading and get the plug thoroughly started before a socket ever goes on to finish the process. You are correct that a 1/4" drive is all that's needed for a spark plug. Chapter P in the workshop manual specifies 13-17 lbf. ft./1.8-2.3 kgf. m. as the tightening figure. That's definitely not much more than stops turning with light hand torque plus a tiny nip afterward. I now have a very long wobble extension for a 1/4" drive that I didn't have way back when, but even then with bigger ratchet the basic principle of tighten with light hand torque, and just a nip more, applied. I find it mystifying how often "more is better, and even more is even more better," is taken to tightening any random threaded fastener or item you can name. That's never been true and the amount of damage that can be done from "gorilla-cizing" everything is significant (and expensive to repair, too). Brian |
