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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 3124
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Monday, 14 December, 2020 - 08:05:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I'm starting a topic on well-covered territory mostly because I am specifically looking for photo documentation. Even though I tend to take tons of photos when working on anything, I did not do so once the SU fuel pump was off of SRH33576 and during the testing process after I rebuilt it.

The last several years have not allowed me much time to touch either SRH33576 or LRK37110. Too many other life obligations that did not allow much "play time with the cars." Now the pump on SRH33576 seems to be seized up, or I presume it is. I've done the usual swapping out of fuses and similar, but I cannot for the life of me recall where, exactly, the electrical connection is that feeds both ends of the pump unit and how it connects. I know it's above the pump somewhere, but where? I'd like to check to make sure that's not somehow gotten corroded, although I doubt it. I was religious about using electrically conductive anti-oxidant grease on all connections when I rebuilt it.

I have heard of the "hit it with a hammer" (somewhat gently) but do not know whether this needs to be done with the ignition turned to run immediately before doing it. I also do not recall if there is any possibility of somehow destroying a pump that is seized if you keep the key in the run position and it can't pump.

But all photos of an SU off the car, its electrical connections, and the environs where the pump is tucked when the pump is out so that more is visible would be welcome.

Brian
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 2239
Registered: 05-2012
Posted on Monday, 14 December, 2020 - 08:44:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Brian

My car is a "series 1" and as I recall the fuel pump is positioned in a different location to the series 2. I am posting some pics of my pump off the car as you said it may be helpful.

The first pic shows the rubber boots either end of the pump that cover the connectors.

The second shows the earth strap with the rubber boots removed.

The third and fourth show the connectors either end of the partly dismantled pump.

p1

p2

p3

p4
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 3125
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Monday, 14 December, 2020 - 09:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Geoff,

Thanks. Most of what you've posted is stuff I actually have. I'm trying to recall whether the wiring for the two ends of the pump are coming to it "straight out of the harness" and that stays on the car when you pull it, or if there was something that plugged in somewhere. Having done this work ten years ago the memory is misty.

I guess I could pull the boot off of the more accessible of the two ends and use a multimeter to determine whether I could have an issue with power supply versus pump. I'd love to be able to apply 12V to the pump directly just to see if it will fire up. Right now I'm in differential diagnosis stage, trying to determine exactly where the issue lies. For all I know some nasty mouse could have gotten in to the garage and dined on the wiring that goes to the fuel pump somewhere!

Brian
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 2240
Registered: 05-2012
Posted on Monday, 14 December, 2020 - 09:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Brian

I agree with you - run some checks in-situ. You will only need to trace the wiring if you confirm there is little or no power to the pump.
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Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 2105
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Monday, 14 December, 2020 - 15:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Brian,
The pump is under the back seat from below the car. There is nothing electrical in that area other than the fuel pumps. The wires are obvious when you are down there. My memory tells me there are no connectors in that area. Just two wires that have lugs on them.
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Hubert Kelly
Frequent User
Username: h_kelly

Post Number: 409
Registered: 03-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 15 December, 2020 - 02:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Guy's when we look at the serial numbers of both cars, should they not have rotary SU motors as apposed to point based motors.

Anyway just a thought.... as I recon my 79 shadow has dual rotary SU pumps as they never tick?...
In other words if I am correct they are less likely to stick?.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 3126
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 15 December, 2020 - 03:53:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hubert,

The answer to your rhetorical question is, "No."

SRH33576 was a home market car and still used the dual SU fuel pump. I've rebuilt it, so that's not even a question, really. It also has (and never had had) emissions control stuff.

LRK37110, a US spec car one model year younger, uses a Pierburg rotary pump and has full US emissions controls for that year.

By the way, it's either got a rotary vane pump (and if OEM it's Pierburg) or it's got a dual SU pump, and if you never hear ticking, but do hear whirring when the key is turned to the run position, you have a rotary vane pump. I cannot recall how the vane wheel is driven in these, so can't accurately speculate about possibility of sticking.

SU pumps were never rotary vane (or at least not the one used on our cars).

Brian
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 3127
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 15 December, 2020 - 04:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Omar,

Thanks. I did a lengthy write-up on getting the fuel pump out of and back in to an SY2 car after the trauma I had with this job that I didn't want anyone else to go through themselves:

Getting a Dual SU Fuel Pump Out of and Back In To a “Two-Series” SY Car

And my own text implies that the electrical connections come straight out of the loom (for lack of a better way of putting it) back there, but I wanted to be absolutely sure. Thanks for the confirmation.

Brian
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Hubert Kelly
Frequent User
Username: h_kelly

Post Number: 410
Registered: 03-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 15 December, 2020 - 07:30:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Brian in relation to this comment..

I have heard of the "hit it with a hammer" (somewhat gently) but do not know whether this needs to be done with the ignition turned to run immediately before doing it.

I have indeed used this method many times (about 30 years ago) on an old Morris Minor with sticky fuel pump,it worked a treat(the gentle tap/ ignition on) but I was 15 back then and didn't really have any alternative.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 3128
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 15 December, 2020 - 11:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hubert,

What you mention was also confirmed to me by another member, but who did specify that it should be done with the ignition turned to run just before applying the hammer.

I shall engage outside assistance and report back afterward. We're due to have a huge winter storm here on Wednesday, so if it doesn't happen tomorrow it will likely be a few days until it can.

Brian
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 2404
Registered: 09-2004
Posted on Wednesday, 16 December, 2020 - 20:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just a quick note, the ignition is turned on just before testing or a tapping this is only needed with the rotor pump as it will cut out after a set time.

On the SU twin pumps they in most cases do not seize if not used for many years.
The problems in most cases are down to the contacts being dirty (corroded) had a few cases of the condenser wires breaking.





contacts cleaned



Remember to seal the plastic cover with insulating tape.

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