| Author | Message | ||
     warren jackson Yet to post message Username: classiccrazy Post Number: 1 Registered: 1-2006 |
Hello to all you rolls and bentley owners this is my first posting and hope someone can help. After taking car for a spin of about 100 miles,on parking heard a hissing noise coming from left side rear tyre,then a pop sound and was greeted with brake fluid that emptied the rear ressy. On getting car home,left in garage for about 2 month,on inspection,found that the two steel pipes to the rear height ram had given up the ghost to rot,so set about changing both pipes on both rams,reason being if this sides gone then the other can't be far off replacing,also did rear caliper seals and all ten break hoses while the breaks were down.On bleeding back up no problems until i do the rear height rams,the same side that caused all the work in the first place,not a drop of fluid,the other side no problem,have i missed something??????? | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 544 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Warren, When bleeding the rams; did you load the boot with approx 200Kg of material to activate the height control valve and leave the front doors open to switch the system to "fast" levelling? Have you tried disconnecting the actuating link from the LHS trailing arm and manually operating the height control valve - if the valve is functioning; the link should move freely in both directions and you should hear the pressurised fluid passing through the valve on its way to the ram. CAUTION - DOING THIS WITH THE BLEED SCREW OPEN COULD RESULT IN FLUID SPRAYING FROM THE BLEED NIPPLE ONTO THE PAINTWORK CAUSING MAJOR PAINT DAMAGE. Have an assistant hold a drain tube onto the bleed screw while you are doing this and make sure they are wearing suitable eye protection. AT first reading, my suspicion is that the left height control valve and or pipework is jammed with gunk carried over from the reservoir when the pipework became incontinent and this is why you cannot bleed the LHS ram. The RHS ram is OK because no fluid and gunk went that way while the reservoir was voiding itself. Given your location and the known problems with hydraulic pipe corrosion; I trust you checked all pipes from the reservoirs to their termination points for corrosion - the best material for replacing the pipes is Cunifer Copper/Nickel alloy rather then the original plated steel. DO NOT USE COPPER CAPILLARY TUBING UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES AS IT WILL DEVELOP FATIGUE CRACKS IN SERVICE. | ||
| warren jackson New User Username: classiccrazy Post Number: 2 Registered: 1-2006 |
Thanks David for your fast reponse, iv'e loaded the boot yes,but not tried opening front doors i was told to open the rear ones,i'm going to try what you suggest and get back to you with results, i'm on abit of a learning curve with this one,fingers crossed and thanks again | ||
| bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 81.168.83.66 |
From about 1972 on the fast level bit was activated by selecting park. Not opening the doors. A collegue of mine at work who used to have T1 said that also the ignition must be on. Not sure. To check what is what. Fitted to the rear sub frame about centre is the solenoid valve. Connect a test light and try the doors, ignition and gears. Mine is park only. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 545 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Bob, On DRH14434 [Dec 1972 - March 1973 gestation], the fast levelling was only activated by opening the doors. 4 door vehicles of this era may have been different and I have no way of checking locally. I would be very appreciative if other users with vehicles from this era could test their vehicles and advise what activates their fast-levelling mode. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 513 Registered: 9-2004 |
Warren sometimes if a ram seal has failed have heard of some so called Specialists fitting a ball bearing in the connector to blank it off,whether temp or forgotten any way do check the pipe hose lines are free. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 600 Registered: 4-2003 |
Warren, Did you overhaul and re-kit the levelling valves? Hopefully you did as these little darlings are as capricious as a politician's initiatives! Either way is it possible you have shoved the operating lever up too far and 'lost' the piston inside. Have a look at the workshop manual - it explains all. The obvious clue to piston loss is that when you move the operating lever up you should come to a 'stop'. This is the point where the piston lifts the button off the outlet and has to overcome the internal pressure. Pushing a bit harder will do this and fluid should flow. If you don't have that 'stop' the piston has definitely become disconnected. As to blocking off the lines I have done this many times to get a car home but the one line feeds both levelling valves so if one is working then the line must be free. Pat's advice is timely because those rams and/or valves can go any time and the first indication is an empty rear reservoir! I always have 5/32" (I think) ball bearings in my kit for just such emergencies. The car travels without difficulty with the levelling switched off but beware of heavy loads or very bad roads. The rear springs as you know are quite soft and you get two very fat bums in the back seat with a boot full of luggage and often (not allways) there is the most frightening clunking noise from the rear when you go to move off. This is because one or both rear outer universal joints is trying to turn when they are way past their maximum operating angle. You know Pat I sometime think we should get a bookie on this site to take bets on who has the answer? But I suspect we would all die wondering as I suppose you have noticed after offering advice we often never hear the outcome. Not very polite really! | ||
| warren jackson New User Username: classiccrazy Post Number: 3 Registered: 1-2006 |
Hello David,Bob,Patrick and Bill thanks for your help,taken alittle time to get back with work and that,seem to have solved problem but can't really tell you what i did,working from the two rear valves,stripped down cleaning and observing as i went along looking for blockages and the like, found nothing replaced everything,started the bleeding process again(big thanks to my dad by the way) and heypresto result and a car that sits spot on, got away with this one i think,thanks again speak later. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 549 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Warren, Seems like you car is telling you it liked the attention it received  . Looks like you will have to use the car regularly to keep it happy. Congratulations on a successful outcome to one of the most complex hydraulic system diagnostic tasks you will have with your car. |
