| Author | Message | ||
     Glen Poolen Frequent User Username: wgipps Post Number: 233 Registered: 03-2018 |
Hi - im between a rock and a hard place so ill need some advice. The water pump has died at home on SRH17983 and ive bought a rebuild kit. I cant drive the car to the mechanics. I dont want to flat bed it to a mechanics. Im going to pay a mechanic via airtasker to come over and remove the pump - not rebuild, just remove, so i can take it to the pump place. Is there a guide or some instructions that i can give to this mechanic or is removing a water pump from any car a very basic task? Any tips or tricks that i can pass on? thanks Glen | ||
| Glen Poolen Frequent User Username: wgipps Post Number: 234 Registered: 03-2018 |
Let me clarify a little. 6 bolts hold the pump to the engine block assembly. Do i just loosen the belts and remove these 6 bolts and the whole fan, viscous coupling, belt extender, pump - the whole thing comes off? Or do i need to remove all the fan, couplings etc 1st, then get the water pump. Do all these parts come off without removing the radiator? The job is going to go to a local mechanic for some quick cash - but they have probably never worked on a RR before so i would like to provide some guidance.   Also - there are belts running everywhere. where are the pivot screws for these to loosen them off?  | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2264 Registered: 09-2004 |
This may help you for carrying out the removal and repair of w/pump that I carried a few years ago. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/29913.html?1514374840 | ||
| Glen Poolen Frequent User Username: wgipps Post Number: 235 Registered: 03-2018 |
Thanks Patrick. Can I clarify please - cover the radiator fins. remove viscous, fan etc - 4 bolts. use a pulley to remove the belt drive extender. unscrew the housing from the block - 6 bolts. use the pulley again to remove the housing - or does the housing and impeller come off without using a pulley again? And importantly - dont hit the housing with a hammer or try to lever it. Have i got it right? | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1692 Registered: 02-2013 |
Glen wash front mudguards, place thick clean blanket over each guard, have two Besser blocks each side of car for mechanic to stand on, and two tables each side of car to put tools on. Most importantly don't stand around talking to mechanic and sweating him down - because he will not thank you for it. A more relaxing caper would be to flatbed car to RA Chapman in Melbourne where the entire job can be performed knowing that they appreciate the marque. To you the car is a Rolls Royce, to an ordinary mechanic it's just another car and a pest because it's different. Most important make certain good inhibitor goes back into the cooling system. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Glen Poolen Frequent User Username: wgipps Post Number: 236 Registered: 03-2018 |
Now thats some handy advice for the job Vlad thank you. Id love to take it to Chapmans, or JRG, or UK Motors, or McDermotts - there are probably others around as well. But with a flat bed at probably a few hundred dollars, the $600 pump changover and the $600 plus in labour (already quoted), its toward $1500 that i just cant afford. If i can get it off myself, I can take it to a specialist pump rebuilder. Ive bought a pump rebuild kit from Flying Spares for under $300, and for another couple of hundred dollars i can probably get the whole job done. So the most info i can give to the mechanic to get it off - and probably back on again later - would be great. | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1693 Registered: 02-2013 |
Glen I did look at my Spirit to see what R&R the water pump would entail and without doing it myself I can't be certain that the job could all be done from the top. That being the case it may be prudent for you to download and print out the manuals lifting points at the front. Now if you want to save that 600 bucks on the R&R labour and you have a reasonable amount of handtools you could have a stab at the job yourself. There are many chaps on the forum who are not qualified mechanics themselves who do their own repairs and amaze me by their intelligence and tenacity by performing excellent work. If you want you could PM me for my number and I am sure I could talk you through the caper with the aid of your camera phone and the net. I would do this for nothing as that's my contribution to charity .... Good luck on whatever you decide and keep us all posted on the adventure. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Glen Poolen Frequent User Username: wgipps Post Number: 237 Registered: 03-2018 |
Rolls Royce and Bentley Technical Library. 04-1 Silver Shadow, Bentley T-Series and Derivatives - Workshop Manual Chapter L - Cooling System Section L4 - Coolant Pump - To Remove www.rrtechnical.info Thank you Mr Treacey. | ||
| Jim Walters Frequent User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 298 Registered: 01-2014 |
You were quoted 600 in labour?? The factory shop time is only 2.75 hours to remove and replace it. One hour is added to overhaul the pump. So 3.75 hours to remove it, rebuild it, and replace it. It is not a difficult job. SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2266 Registered: 09-2004 |
I see that one of the above postings approved by moderator states "Most important make certain good inhibitor goes back into the cooling system." Please note, many good types of antifreeze [inhibitors] would be totally wrong for running in the Shadow engine. | ||
| Glen Poolen Frequent User Username: wgipps Post Number: 238 Registered: 03-2018 |
Jim - i agree totally with what you say. The quote was from a well known Melbourne (Aust) RR expert. Im estimating about an hour to remove and about 1.5 hrs to put it back on. The $600 was the lowest charge - to simply remove and replace with a reco pump (that was a $600 change-over fee). If they encountered problems the charge would go up. Perhaps that is corona-virus pricing but its a bit rich for me. Patrick - im thinking i might flush the radiator, heater, etc - the whole system. I have no idea when it was last done. The correct inhibitor will be some research at a later date before i put it all back together. | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1694 Registered: 02-2013 |
Jim, 600/3.75 = $160 AUD. Considering the Aussie Dollar has sunk like the Titanic lately and that the mechanic is coming to the job at Glen's place and that generally the entire population has gone nuts over toilet rolls in a media driven paranoid panic buy lately $160 per hour is high but not super crazy. Of course there real question is the quality of the work. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 588 Registered: 11-2017 |
You cannot rebuild your water pump unless you have a hydraulic press. You must know what your doing. There is no sealant used between the pump and the case, only a large O ring. If a PO used a sealant it must be cleaned off. There are 6 bolts as mentioned, with one being larger. Ronnie Shaver "aka RollsRoycenut" has a Youtube video showing the rebuild. | ||
| Glen Poolen Frequent User Username: wgipps Post Number: 239 Registered: 03-2018 |
im getting a classic car water pump guy to rebuild it - all he does is rebuild old pumps. But i cant deliver the car to him - just the pump.  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 590 Registered: 11-2017 |
Send him the link on Youtube for "RollsRoycenut" aka Ronnie Shaver. He shows how to rebuild TT SY pumps. Never hurts to know more than less. www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDYXLhAnLaY | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2268 Registered: 09-2004 |
After many posting years ago with battles and with posts being deleted with my recommendations on the use of new antifreeze type for the RR Shadow IE Hoat G-05. It is now the recommended type for use in the RR Shadow by different manufacturers of the product. Maybe it is time for all those red and blue comments to be updated by the moderator! | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3627 Registered: 04-2003 |
Patrick, The manufacturers may say it is OK but has it been tested by RRMC??????? Where are the reports of RR/B owners and recognised R-R/B repairers who have used this product for 10 years or more? We know from experience the original anti-freeze is compatible provided it is changed every two years; as far as I am aware, the jury has yet to return a verdict on the long-life [4 years] version. When substantiated long-term usage results from recognised independent authorities are available, these will be published on this forum alongside the tried and proved original recommendations. Owners can then make their own decisions at their own risk and expense. I might remind you of the past documented problems experienced with the use of "new better than everything else" antifreeze products that were later found to be not suitable for the R-R V8 engine as you well-know this engine is substantially different in design and construction to conventional V8 engines from other manufacturers. You have voiced your opinion many times and members can make up their own minds and accept responsibility for whatever action they may take with their choice of coolant. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2271 Registered: 09-2004 |
Yes and I remember the contradictory remarks by many! less said the better HERE on the proven Hoat G-05 with wet liners and seals etc. Reminds me of the early days of my recommendations keeping up with the new type semi and synthetic oils in a Shadow! Folk now even buy Classic 20/50 oil cripes the mind boggles. |
