| Author | Message | ||
     Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1677 Registered: 02-2013 |
JETSETTERS, Perhaps I should have commenced this thread with the title "The Flattening of the Echidna". For our international custodians Echidnas are harmless spiny anteaters that are small cat sized creatures who wander onto roads here and those in the know swerve to avoid them because running over them means the total destruction of your tyres. The Rolls Royce engine block with its cylinder heads removed resembles an Echidna. Each bank has 20 cylinder head studs, in lines of 5 studs. Each line has the same length studs, but each line of studs is of a different length to each other line. Removing all the studs from the engine without taking note of which stud goes where will result in a jigsaw puzzle, which may lead to excessive consumption of high powered spirits and possibly unexplained but necessary kicking of your favourite pet, be that cat, dog or wallaby.(small kangaroo but equally stupid). There is easy method of remembering where each stud goes. From the top of the engine to the bottom 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 1st SHORTEST. To make it clearer the 2nd shortest studs go nearest to where the intake manifold sits and 4th shortest (meaning the Longest) goes closest to where the engine oil sump sits. But why throw yourself off then cliff of no return by removing the studs in the first place? With the liners all removed one could use a straight edge and feeler guage diagonally and horizontally and vertically to detect if the engine block is warped. If the engine block is warped then studs would have to be removed to machine mill the engine block to cylinder head faces flat. Somewhere in the forum Kelly Ophar recommends not removing the studs unless absolutely necessary. Another contributor has informed me that the studs are located in the cylinder block with helicoils. When loosening the cylinder stud nuts I do think it is possible that the studs could become loose. That could lead to the nightmare and self loathing of tensioning down the cylinder head studs and coming across the nasty event of the studs pulling out of their hellicoil which could lead one down the insideous caper of abandoning your Rolls Royce, and buying an finny 60s Ford Anglia, Cortina, or Trabant or even a Moskavich. I intend to tighten each stud with my trusty German made Wurth multigrips and not remove the studs if the block tests flat. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Kelly Opfar Frequent User Username: kelly_opfar Post Number: 244 Registered: 07-2004 |
The studs are not heli-coiled - at least on Shadow V8's. But the studs are an interference fit. The Factory spares catalog list three different part numbers for each stud which have pitch diameters that increase in .0005" increments. This allows the original engine builder to select the stud that fits the tapped holes to the correct interference. http://BritishToolWorks.com | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1678 Registered: 02-2013 |
Okay, Kelly has said the stud holes are not helicoiled. I wrote the studs were helicoiled just repeating what another custodian had told me recently and he will remain anonymous as he is a jolly good chap etc. I hope not to find out whether the Camargue's cylinder block is helicoiled or not because I want to avoid removing the studs like the plague. Can anyone else add to this subject? (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1679 Registered: 02-2013 |
Good grief, how a month of no booze, croaks the Soviet mind and I did learn the Russian language quite fluently smashed daily on vodka. The shortest studs go closest to the engine sump. Just wondering whether late Bob's ceiling dwelling Rhinoceros is going to appear. And if I remove the studs each stud will go back in the same hole and a cardboard punch board will see to that. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3568 Registered: 04-2003 |
Mea Culpa [Latin for Blame Me] I was quoting from memories from two decades ago - now suitably chastened, it was probably derived from TSD2476 or similar when I was scanning material for the Technical Library and was probably related to engine rebuilding after dismantling. Somewhere in the archives, there is a definitive reference to using helicoils in the engine. | ||
| Kelly Opfar Frequent User Username: kelly_opfar Post Number: 245 Registered: 07-2004 |
The RR fastening philosophy is that studs are installed with a friction fit with no helicoils. If bolts are used instead, they go into helicoiled holes. For instance, the head studs, main-studs, differential carrier studs and HCV halves have friction fit studs. The water pump, water pump housing and bell-housing have helicoils. The blocks were hard-anodized after finish machining so the female thread surfaces are hardened. This hardened surface can be removed by chasing with a tap. http://BritishToolWorks.com | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3569 Registered: 04-2003 |
Thanks Kelly, You are correct - it is starting to come back to me. I was beginning to think I was starting to go dotty in my old age. Haven't opened the Shadow workshop manual since 2004 when DRH14434 and I went separate ways after a marriage breakdown. |
