Post Number: 138
|Posted on Saturday, 08 June, 2019 - 03:54: |
I wanted a central locking system for my 79 Shadow. I wanted the installation to be as SIMPLE as possible! I used a kit from China on Ebay which was $10.72! I have ordered 3 more for the other Shadows/Cloud reducing the price to $9.88 per unit. I have installed similar units on my Jaguars and Mercedes with great results. Use these instructions knowing I am not responsible for any negatives that might result! I had none.
The control box is mounted behind the driver's side kick panel. There is enough space to simply lay it in there. The panel simply slides out toward the driver's seat. I did not want it in a door because of moisture. One could mount it inside the door if they covered the control box with plastic. This would make the installation quicker and easier! I routed 3 wires from inside the car at the control box to the lock switch on the driver's door. The wires are relatively easy to route under the "black brace" between the two hinges (and nearer to the bottom hinge). The door panel is removed by removing first the screws behind the chrome bezels that cover the lock and window switches and then pulling out the panel itself which is snapped on with metal fasteners. Hope I haven't forgotten anything! Once the wires are in the door, you will need to remove the door lock switch by removing the two screws that secure it to the door frame. There you will find 3 wires. One is constant power. The other two are for locking and unlocking. Use your test light to determine the wires. I should have written down the colors, but did not expect to do the write-up! I feel sure the rear left wire on the switch is the constant power. Connect one wire to the constant power;one to the lock side wire and the other to unlock side wire on the switch. Pull on each of the wires from inside at the control box to determine/label each wire (constant power,lock and unlock). Almost all the wiring that plugs into the control box are the same (at least the ones from China). The orange, orange/black & black are your ground wires. I connected it to a bolt near the control box. The yellow, yellow/black and red are your constant power wires. Connect it to the constant power wire that you ran from the switch through the door. Connect the white wire to the "unlock" wire you ran from the switch. Connect the white/black wire to the "lock" wire you ran from the switch. Now, test the system. On mine, all the doors did perfectly except for the left rear. The problem was it was not getting enough current as it tried to lock. If I pushed down slightly on the chrome lock button at the rear door while using the remote's lock button, it would go down perfectly (letting me know not enough power). The unlock was fine. I put a standard relay (with terminals 87, 85, 86 & 30) in that door for the lock signal. The cigarette lighter power wire in the door provides constant power for the relay on terminal "30". Terminal "86" is ground. Pull off the wire for the lock signal coming from the car (and going to the actuator itself). Again, I should have written down the wire color, but can be easily determined using a test light and pressing the lock on the remote. Fabricate a wire to terminal "85" on the relay connecting the other end to the lock signal wire. Fabricate another wire to terminal "87" which goes to the actuator's wire itself for the locking. If you wanted a stronger signal on the unlock side, you could do exactly the same but would connect to the unlock signal wire using another relay.
Again, my big mistakes was I didn't take pics and did not write down the wire colors, but most have a test light and can easily determine the power sources. There is a fuse in the power wire going to the control box from the door switch. I also put an inline fuse going from the lighter to the relay.
I hope this helps someone. Contact me directly for any questions: firstname.lastname@example.org
Robert J. Sprauer
Post Number: 441
|Posted on Saturday, 08 June, 2019 - 04:38: |
Richard, Most of the issues regarding the door actuators for the locks are traced to corrosion around the rod that is pulled in and out of the solenoid coil. Dis-assembly, clean and lube usually restores function.
Looks like a handy mod for our SY cars.
Post Number: 139
|Posted on Saturday, 08 June, 2019 - 04:58: |
I agree, Robert. Before installing the relay, I lubricated the rod going through the actuator but on inspection, the rod was perfectly clean. I'm extremely happy to have the car which has been garaged it's entire life with original paint, interior, etc.!
Post Number: 1135
|Posted on Sunday, 09 June, 2019 - 07:40: |