| Author | Message | ||
     Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2092 Registered: 5-2012 |
I've just discovered a split in the right driveshaft boot. Part number is UG11121. It looks like Flying Spares is the best deal. I'm waiting for a quote from Albers, but I was wondering if there are any other sources in the US that I can check out before ordering the part. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 375 Registered: 11-2017 |
That's about it. When you remove be aware of the buttons and the amount of shims under each side. The buttons remove from the round bar they are placed in. Keep the buttons off until the boot is in place. The boot is a real exercise with sliding it over the end. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1055 Registered: 11-2015 |
Geoff, The manual says press the pin out put the boot on and press the pin back in. After stretching one on you will see why. I put one on and it was pretty out there. If there is someone who has done this you might want them around for moral or immoral support. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 381 Registered: 11-2017 |
Here's what I did. I pressed out the pin. it's imperative it goes in and exactly centered. I then used a small plastic cone fashioned from a hard plastic bottle and put the cone end on the ball with a little silicone spray and it slid on with ease. Believe me I tried everything including using a long nose pliers to stretch the opening like forceps but the lightbulb went off and it was smooth sailing. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2093 Registered: 5-2012 |
Robert & Ross Thanks for your replies and advice. I've just received the quote from Albers at $87.49 which beats FS by 4 bucks at current exchange rates. Given the likely lower mail charges (I'm in the US), it looks like Albers have it. I've read in previous threads about the difficulty in stretching the boot, even when softened in boiling water, so I will probably go for the "remove the pin" method, even though I have read dire warnings about doing so. I guess careful measurements will be the order of the day. I was also quoted $10 and $4.25 for the large and small clamps (jubilee clips) respectively. From the parts manual it looks like these are just standard clamps that you can buy at much lower cost at Lowes, Home Depot or Autozone. If these substitutes are the same as the RR offering, then it seems pointless paying the extra. Does anyone know if there is anything special about the RR clamps. I'm thinking in terms of balance on a fast rotating driveshaft. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3265 Registered: 4-2003 |
Geoff, I went the "push-out" route after trying the hot water soak before attempting to work the boot over the pin and failing as I had serious doubts whether the boot was capable of stretching any further without splitting. I don't know how long the boots had been sitting on the shelf before I purchased them however my experience suggests it had been some time. Had already purchased a 50 ton hydraulic press for separating the rear drive yokes from the hub half-shafts [misguided as future final separation required a 200 ton press to overcome corrosion "welding" of the two items from salt road de-icing in its first home in Yorkshire]. This press easily pushed out the drive shaft pins and I made up a sleeve from steel water pipe to put over the pin and stop the ram when the pin was dead-centre on the drive shaft. This worked perfectly and the pins were accurate to within 0.002". Geoff, use commercial stainless steel jubilee clips and not galvanised steel as they will be a fraction lighter also position the screw portions of the large and small clip at 180deg apart to reduce any imbalance. The initial reason for pulling the rear drive apart was to replace the wheel bearings which had failed from corrosion caused by "salty" water from road de-icing that had leaked past the original felt seals [these were replaced by the factory replacement lip seal kit as part of the repair]. . | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2132 Registered: 9-2004 |
Well this is an example of folk using the manual and not there head! The workshop manual can be a work around to make some jobs much more difficult to stop the DIY with costly outcome [vibration etc]. Doing the job the easy way the boots will stretch and save hours of needless work. Did mine the proper engineers quick way: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/29581.html?1512663326 | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1063 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick, I just used the sun and lots of stretching. Your modded cv boot stretcher would make things easier. I remember thinking that is was not possible the entire time I was installing the boot. If I have to do it again I might consider the pin. I mean really, you just need to center it. A big lathe, a dial, and a lead mallet would seem like the tools. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 388 Registered: 11-2017 |
The pin is interference and not much is needed to knock it thru. A press is recommended because it is more gentle and controlled over a hammer. No need to heat it or the fear of ripping it. Believe me I looked at this and said no way and pressed out the pin and minutes later the boot was on with my cone method. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2095 Registered: 5-2012 |
Thanks for all the help. That link that Patrick gave is very useful. I order the part on Monday so plenty of time to decide which method I will use. Thanks again | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1065 Registered: 11-2015 |
Robert, Just to be clear there, I was including the hammer for centering the pin, not extracting it. I would think that is a press only job. |
