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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 601
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Wednesday, 24 April, 2019 - 02:25 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Having re-sealed my windscreen to avoid a couple of annoying drips into the front footwells I decided to test the scuttles for leaks.

I used a bottle of food colouring in water and lo and behold I found the leaks. The old bitumen sealer has dried and cracked around the seams and drain holes in the scuttle vents under the front windscreen .

Removing the old stuff is actually easy it's so degraded but I wonder which product I use to replace it.

1- Bitumen Paint

available at Bunnings: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ormonoid-1l-bitumen-paint_p0964856
or

2- Bitumen Rubber also available at Bunnings:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/gripset-betta-1l-waterproofing-membrane-bitumen-rubber_p0960165

Or is there a proprietary product I should know about?

Anybody out there who knows what the correct and/or best product to use could you let me know.

I've checked both rubber hoses and they're fine - it's definitely the old waterproofing.
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Mike Thompson
Prolific User
Username: vroomrr

Post Number: 300
Registered: 4-2019
Posted on Wednesday, 24 April, 2019 - 04:08 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I can't tell you what to do, only what I am going to do. I am sure my windscreen is in much worse condition than yours. What I am going to do for a quick fix until I can replace the windscreen and as a result the rubber, is to use this product. 3M 08693 Auto glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive. Never use silicon on any parts that are exposed to UV rays.

Amazon has it for $15.00 USD that is cheaper than most places. It will last indefinitely but is good for a quick fix. Put masking tape around the chrome and car body where you do not want it to go. Then apply the 3M (a bead around the whole windscreen) and smooth it with your finger applying dish soap to your finger as you go.

This product is UV proof, will fill lots of holes, and good at sticking things together. When I have it, it does not last long around my house.
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Robert J. Sprauer
Grand Master
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 338
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Wednesday, 24 April, 2019 - 10:03 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

3M 08693 is totally the wrong product for this problem It is used in modern windscreen applications that are cemented in place and therefore have to be cut out with future replacement. It is very adhesive because that is its primary feature. The RR windscreen does the sealing and keeps it in place. The sealant from the factory install is between seal and body. I have done these before and know whats involved.
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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 602
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Wednesday, 24 April, 2019 - 11:17 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The windscreen seal is only a couple of years old after a paint job and was done by an RR pro. I just added a small bead of windscreen sealant (Selleys) in case that was the problem. It wasn't.

Turns out it was the scuttle vent which is lined with hardened black goop.

I've decided to strip it, prep and paint with POR, seal all the seams with Sikaflex and then paint over everything with automotive bitumen paint/ sound deadener. This last seems to be what's there now.

Unless there's a better sealing putty or something?

This cannot be an uncommon problem given the number of seams, holes and bits in the vent. And the number of rusted out floorpans evident on old Shadows.

Anyone know what professional restorers do?
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 2088
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Thursday, 25 April, 2019 - 12:59 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jeff

Sorry I can't answer your question, but I have a question for you. You stated above that removing the bitumen sealer was easy. What method did you use? What solvents, if any?
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Mike Thompson
Grand Master
Username: vroomrr

Post Number: 301
Registered: 4-2019
Posted on Thursday, 25 April, 2019 - 01:36 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Robert I had forgotten back when cavemen drove cars the windows were different and were like shower doors glass or something and it seems the chrome piece actually had a function as well back then? Thanks (The 3M would still work as a quick fix but it would be a big pain for the next guy taking it out. What would you use as a quick fix? I would not be able to drive in the rain.)

Geoff good question that kind of info is always handy. (Solvents)
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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 603
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Thursday, 25 April, 2019 - 08:57 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Geoff, so far it's just crumbling off. If it's the same stuff they used around the B-pillars (and I think it is) it'll shift with a little bit of mineral turpentine.
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Mike Thompson
Grand Master
Username: vroomrr

Post Number: 308
Registered: 4-2019
Posted on Thursday, 25 April, 2019 - 09:43 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Geoff Darn I was hoping for some magic hidden secret solvent you had found in a lost tomb in Egypt past down for generations.
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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 604
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Tuesday, 30 April, 2019 - 04:05 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Okay I'm further on with this. I've done 4 coats of POR Chassis coat and that seems to have fixed that bit.

Both rubber drain hoses are showing their age however (and I know some people have just deleted them).


FS in the UK tell me that Crewe have some replacements for the Spirit but not the Shadow, so I'm going to ask if anybody out there knows if the Spirit ones will fit the Shadow?

Any RR mechanics reading this who might've seen both and know whether or not they're interchangeable.
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Robert J. Sprauer
Grand Master
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 364
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Tuesday, 30 April, 2019 - 09:35 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

One way to tell if they are interchangeable is to compare part numbers on the Bentley Heritage site.
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Jeff McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 605
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Tuesday, 30 April, 2019 - 10:25 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Excellent suggestion Robert. Alas not the same part. I'm sure Bob Chapman will have something I can use instead. It's just a rubber tube; the bulb thing on the end always just clogs anyway (and splits). I doubt any noticable engine fumes would enter the duct in any case. The airflow past the outlet end would tend to draw air from the drain hole rather than push fumes upward.

A bit of Crewe overengineering around a not really significant problem methinks.
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Robert J. Sprauer
Grand Master
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 365
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Tuesday, 30 April, 2019 - 11:00 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Very true Jeff. The "frog mouth opening" really does not work as intended. Perhaps cut a short length of tube to simply insert in "the mouth" to keep it open and let any moisture drip out.

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