| Author | Message | ||
     Mike Thompson Yet to post message Username: vroomrr Post Number: 1 Registered: 4-2019 |
Hi, this is my first post. I bought a 1975 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow for $2500 USD. Not in good shape. Carb shot, brakes don't work, seats ripped and cracked. Water damage on carpets and dashboard wood etc. So I found out these RRs only go like 106 mph. And when they opened the hood (bonnet) I asked what is that scuba gear doing on the engine? (Not really) So, so far I converted that scuba carb to a hulking race Edelbrock (1405) 4 barrel carb. I hope you find this interesting. This is what it looks like.  | ||
| Mike Thompson New User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 2 Registered: 4-2019 |
This is what the adapter I had to make looks like. It is way too tall, I would now make it shorter if I knew how it would come out like.  | ||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 43 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... That sharp step is going to interfere with the airflow, I hope your going to port it better later? Graham. | ||
| Mike Thompson New User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 3 Registered: 4-2019 |
The hard part is making the adapter. You can't buy them, nor will you be able to easily find a intake manifold (for less than $2500 the price of the car). Make the gasket, form the cardboard plate, cut the metal for bottom plate, use the carb gasket to form the top plate, as short as you can weld the spacer between the top plate and bottom plate. There you have the carb adapter.  | ||
| Mike Thompson New User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 4 Registered: 4-2019 |
Graham Phillips Yeah I would do it completely different now, I just want to get it running for right now. Thought some would be interested that it can be done. Unlike with topic "V8 Engine SU Carburettor Replacement" | ||
| Jeff Young Grand Master Username: jeyjey Post Number: 403 Registered: 10-2010 |
It's certainly more compact than all the disparate RR parts (choke, weakener, choke solenoid, air cleaner, etc.). With a shorter and larger diameter air filter you could attach the breather to the bottom of it. I presume the current incarnation will require a bonnet scoop or cutout? | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 277 Registered: 11-2016 |
We want to know how it performs and how many gallons to the mile it now does!  | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 155 Registered: 3-2018 |
"I presume the current incarnation will require a bonnet scoop or cutout?" Watching to see the answer. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 1063 Registered: 4-2012 |
Mike good luck with your project, I am sure that you will receive any assistance that this forum can give you. Richard. | ||
| Mike Thompson New User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 7 Registered: 4-2019 |
On the hood (bonnet) scoop does it need to be cut out? No, it just fits, with no room to spare. (And why I said it is too tall.) I wanted to use a system that a hose would go to the original place for the air filter, but it cost to much so I went with the top air filter. One you can buy at any race parts.  . | ||
| Mike Thompson New User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 8 Registered: 4-2019 |
And a beautiful one if you can find it and afford it, a 1987 Corniche air system.  . | ||
| Mike Thompson New User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 9 Registered: 4-2019 |
Patrick Francis the Edelbrock 1405 is supposed to be fuel efficient, but you open up the 4 barrel you can kiss that good bye. | ||
| Mike Thompson New User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 10 Registered: 4-2019 |
You might be wondering why this adapter is so weird. It is a product of evolution, I did not have a clue how to get from point A (bottom plate) to point B (top plate). Now I would just use the thin sheet metal and go straight down to the bottom plate. Hind sight is 20/20.  . | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 1810 Registered: 4-2009 |
what a fantastic project. please keep us updated. and does it sound like a race car too? | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 211 Registered: 11-2017 |
Fuel injected cars use the air intake system you mentioned above, not limited to the Corniche models.intake | ||
| Mike Thompson Experienced User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 13 Registered: 4-2019 |
Omar M. Shams Well I shot some ether in it, and it ran. Sounded good as long as the ether was there, it ran good. Don't have the linkage figured out yet. So don't know yet, I'll keep updating. It started knocking I thought oh no, but remembered we took off the drive shaft to not hurt the transmission. It took me two days to drag it home. RRs are hard to find around here. | ||
| Mike Thompson Experienced User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 17 Registered: 4-2019 |
Omar M. Shams I think this is what you are looking for, an LS swap from a truck (like a 6.0L). They are a GM engine, might fit the GM 400 transmission. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lT4R3hyB1oM | ||
| Mike Thompson Experienced User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 18 Registered: 4-2019 |
Robert J. Sprauer You have some examples of a vehicle that have those air intake systems? I might go to a local Pick and Pull, and pick and pull that thing right off. It would ease my mind at the clearance. | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 157 Registered: 3-2018 |
Bahahaha - that youtuube video is a pisser! | ||
| Mike Thompson Experienced User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 26 Registered: 4-2019 |
Glen Poolen Isn't it! Did you notice (at the end) that the RR was keeping up with the Vet? A 6.0L LS in a 2.5 ton car can do that. | ||
| Mike Thompson Experienced User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 31 Registered: 4-2019 |
Today I made a lot of linkage stuff, not finished yet. There is the throttle cable to the carb keeper, the cable holder, the other end of the cable to the pedal linkage keeper. I still need to make the cable to pedal holder and that is done. I tried to think how to get all those twists and turns as a linkage, then thought a cable, yeah that's easier. Oh I have forgot my song to Edelweis lyric change. My Edelbrock My Edelbrock Please give me lots more power When I push it to the floor I want to hear that engine roar My Edelbrock My Edelbrock Please give me lots more power  | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 52 Registered: 4-2019 |
I'm getting to the point I need to ask "What Is It". So in the picture below there is a vacuum tree, what is it for and are the heater AC controls vacuum driven, and is this part of it? Also as you can see someone put a new coil in and could not get the old one out, (I could not either) but there is a part attached (laying to the left) with wires on it on that bracket that the coil is on. What is it?   | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 217 Registered: 11-2017 |
Vacuum is only for distributor advance. All HVAC is electric in operation including the duct flaps (servos) | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 56 Registered: 4-2019 |
Robert J. Sprauer Sweet, That means I can get rid of all that spaghetti and have a clean engine bay. Thanks! | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 57 Registered: 4-2019 |
Since vacuum for the distributor advance was brought up, does anyone know if these distributor vacuum ports are timed (no vacuum at idle) or full (vacuum present at idle)? I have to hook it up to one or the other vacuum ports on the Edelbrock 1405. Thanks | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 218 Registered: 11-2017 |
Vacuum is created when there is flow in the plenum, more flow and more vacuum and therefore more advance is needed for additional rpm created. In the RR and most other cars with traditional vacuum, the distributor advance is mapped to the vacuum created by the intake manifold characteristics and carbs/injection. Everything works together, however in your case you will have to see what happens. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 390 Registered: 5-2016 |
Timing is done with vacuum hose detached from the distributor and the hose plugged. It's easier to detach the top end of the vacuum hose near the carb and plug it there. The timing settings are different for different markets and depend also on what RON fuel is being used, also the RPM at which timing is set varies depending on carbs fitted, fuel RON and market the car was built for. There's a list somewhere, I think it's on Flying Spares site showing the different timing settings but obviously it won't include your carb type. I think you may have to do it the old fashioned way, by ear and with rev counter until you find the sweet spot. | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 58 Registered: 4-2019 |
Larry Kavanagh The shop owner said it was running perfect 11 years ago when he put it in one of his bays and left it there. So it still should be perfect he said. Baaaahahaha  | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1341 Registered: 2-2013 |
Mike I think you may be making a sleeper. I have seen a 1978 Cadillac sleeper but Black 1975 RR Shadow sleeper would be something else. On the forum are articles on how to make your own mascot. But I think for your car you need to go over the top. A vicious looking devil with illuminated red eyes would be an appropriate starting point. I don't believe in back pressure exhaust theories. Better out than in so I suggest going for extractors to straight through exhausts dumping straight behind the front wheels. Perhaps Texas allows this type of noise/music as a lot of Harleys are loud. Have Daddy Long Legs - Long Johns Jump cranked on your sound system. Whatever you do with the LS1 is your business but I merely put the concept of a good Nitros Oxide system to make the sleeper awake. How is your Spanish? Mexican number plates along with Mexican Drivers licence would be my caper if I lived in Texas. Taking a note from movie American Graffiti go the hat from Harrison's Black Chevy, but with a hat band of live 12 gage buckshot slugs. Possibly still legal in Texas. An Apache arrow through the hat with the ammo would be supercool for overstatement. Now rear end. Just how much you can feed the original is unknown but a swap with a 76 Cadillac would keep things together. I like the dash the way you have it. Wood is not essential. A six speed Tremec Manual Stick shift would be fun with plenty of room for a gear vendors under drive. | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 62 Registered: 4-2019 |
Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov As far as the exterior, yes I am keeping it the original look, minus the old hub caps. Got some modern ones for that. No "vicious looking devil with illuminated red eyes". Did have an internal fantasy of painting her pink, wear a pink boa, go through Dallas where the prostitutes line up, yelling Who's Your Daddy! One hand on the top of the wheel sloughed down. Daddy Mac. Como los cholos en su lowrider cholo mobiles. Now I would not mind having a very quiet Cadillac mufflers until you step on it and they light up with sound. As far as noise in TX, with my truck, the last owner cut off the catalytic converter so it's pretty loud and are even with the cab. Well got to get back under that 2 and a half ton of British steel and hope it don't sqoosh me.  | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1342 Registered: 2-2013 |
Mike those hub caps are totally obscene. Where is my vomit bucket??? You have reached a new low.... They are truly hideous! Are you going to areldite or sika them on? | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 391 Registered: 5-2016 |
I agree that the wheel embellisher is cringeworthy but if it was painted in red, white and blue perhaps it would be more acceptable as a representation of the UK union flag, after all it is a truly British gentleman's carriage. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 107 Registered: 4-2019 |
Ok which one is the best (if any) and worst (if all).   | ||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 224 Registered: 11-2018 |
Mike, definitely the original number 1 | ||
| h_kelly Grand Master Username: h_kelly Post Number: 305 Registered: 3-2012 |
Def.the original, by a long shot.... | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 400 Registered: 5-2016 |
Ditto, No.1 by a long way. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3217 Registered: 4-2003 |
Another vote for #1 if this is the only choice. Otherwise I would keep looking.......... | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 132 Registered: 4-2019 |
S U C C E S S !! I got the old girl running. At first it would only run for 3 second and die, then heated up a bit and started back firing. I looked at the carb and had forgot to plug up the vacuum ports. I plugged them, started it again, and it purred like a kitten. Can't believe it a 2 to 4 barrel Edelbrock carb conversion for only the price of the carb. Everything else I had on hand. But the original pedal does not have enough travel to open up the 4 barrel on the carb. Oh well, for now it will get better gas mileage. Maybe I'll hook that choke cable to it and see how fast it will go. And gas supplied Texas Buba style.  | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 133 Registered: 4-2019 |
If anyone wants to know how to convert a 1975 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow from the scuba carb 2 barrel to a 4 barrel Edelbrock carb. This is now a living record how it can be done. Yeeeha. Success ! | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 134 Registered: 4-2019 |
Running !  | ||
| h_kelly Grand Master Username: h_kelly Post Number: 308 Registered: 3-2012 |
Well done Mike. Delighted things are working out. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 932 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, Good on you for keeping the Royce on the right side of the tarmac. The vacuum question. Looks like there are a couple of ports on the manifold in front of the carb. Put a gauge on them and use one if it is a vacuum port. The Edleblock probably has ported vacuum somewhere, but why. The wheels. I must say I agree with the rest here. Keep the originals or go with the steel. Also, please post some pictures of the whole car. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 933 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, PCV. Don't forget the pcv system. Not only does keeping the pcv system working keep the corrosive fumes out of the engine, it also keeps the block in partial vacuum to keep oil leaks to a minimum. The thing you put an arrow to. That takes the vent lines from the original su carbs. With your carb setup, you can probably eliminate it and the associated lines. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 138 Registered: 4-2019 |
ross kowalski someone said some of the controls for A/C and Heating work off of vacuum, and that has been a worry. I'm I correct? | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 258 Registered: 11-2017 |
HVAC does not use vacuum. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 139 Registered: 4-2019 |
Pictures of the car. The front end is covered up right now I don't want some Buba coming along and taking the radiator cover etc. saying to the wife: "that'd look gooood on my 65 VW Margret let's go for to stealing that. "   | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 934 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, Nice. I don't know about the 75, but the 70 doesn't do anything with vacuum. | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1354 Registered: 2-2013 |
But will it run too rich? The manifold pics show the scuba gear carbs used a 2bbl manifold. The Camargue runs a 4bbl manifold. As long as you don't floor it often you may be okay otherwise it won't be able to get enough air and I think will foul the plugs from too rich a mixture. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 143 Registered: 4-2019 |
Vlad,one can never be too rich. I don't know, will see, don't scare me I was happy. (A rare thing.) | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 144 Registered: 4-2019 |
You do know that is a luxury feature of the Silver Shadow. That if you become submerged in water, you open the hood (bonnet) rip off the scuba gear carb, (it is only held on with one bolt) put the pipe to your mouth and breath normally.  | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3221 Registered: 4-2003 |
Mike, I see there is no front passenger side mirror - was this standard on US-spec Shadow II's or an option? If not, I suggest you get a driver's side mirror from a RHD Shadow as it makes driving in multi-lane traffic far more pleasant and less-stressful. . | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 939 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, If the car is where someone might pull your mascot, it might make sense to pull it while you are getting your car running. It's one grub screw in back. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 940 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, I often leave the vacuum advance off when getting cars sorted. You don't strictly need one. Just make sure the mechanical advance is operational. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 259 Registered: 11-2017 |
You need vacuum for the vac modulator on the transmission. Pass mirrors were a factory option up to 1980. Mine is 1980 and the build sheet order is for a pass mirror. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 942 Registered: 11-2015 |
Robert, Right-o, also that reminds me of something. The th400 shift solenoid has on the linkage at the scuba gear. That will have to be wired somewhere or no third gear. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 943 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, Here's my engine on it's first start... https://youtu.be/h3bQKQi41wA After tuning... https://youtu.be/uModNx-jnCM Your carb should get the car purring. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 260 Registered: 11-2017 |
On the left side of the gearbox is the downshift solenoid. That's what the switch is for under the gas pedal | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 945 Registered: 11-2015 |
Robert, I had some sort of kick down microswitch that overroad that right on the linkage at the carb. I left it off once and trouble ensued. I think when it went open circuit it caused kick down, but that was a while ago. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 148 Registered: 4-2019 |
ross kowalski I see on your Rolls not only does the dash come with wood but so does the vacuum. Car looks like mine. Ross and Robert please explain more about the need for some electrical device to shift the trans. and what I can/must do to make this work. And You need vacuum for the vac modulator on the transmission. David I think I have a mirror that looks like that somewhere. But it might be on my 1964 Imperial. Thanks | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 947 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, The kick down is just a standard th 400 kick down. A lot of american cars do it on the carb linkage, I'm sure jegs has one or just fab one up. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 263 Registered: 11-2017 |
I would unplug every multi connector at the firewall and deoxit and smear dielectric grease. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 154 Registered: 4-2019 |
On my Chevy C10 truck it would not shift unless the vacuum hose was connected. Robert You said: "You need vacuum for the vac modulator on the transmission." And Ross said: " The th400 shift solenoid has on the linkage at the scuba gear. That will have to be wired somewhere or no third gear." | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 949 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, You need both vac for the moulator and the kick down switch for a th400 to work. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 160 Registered: 4-2019 |
Ross so how do I resolve this problem? | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 960 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, The vacuum modulator is on the side of a th400 and you just have to run a vacuum line to it. I like those little vacuum nipples you capped on the manifold but any manifold vacuum will do. As for the kick down solenoid Basically, you set a switch to close when you are almost at full throttle so that when you are flooring it the transmissions shifts to second. You can use the one in your car or add one directly to the carb. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 961 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, What year is the c10? | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 967 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mascot grub screw  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 270 Registered: 11-2017 |
Is your grub screw an Allen/hex head or a traditional hex bolt? Many are Allen. Careful they are heavy. | ||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 255 Registered: 11-2018 |
South Africa has the best deterrents. I bet Vladimir has all the fitting instructions required   | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 175 Registered: 4-2019 |
Let's put another one on the barby. Hot dog anyone? | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 176 Registered: 4-2019 |
Is this the button you are talking about and I'll have down shift, but no 3rd gear right now. Where does the vacuum go? (And where is chapter "T" ?)  | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 177 Registered: 4-2019 |
Here is my scuba Carb.  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 276 Registered: 11-2017 |
I think I saw a spot on your carb pic. It's a unconnected tube on the front? Give us carb pics. Did it come with instructions? | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 178 Registered: 4-2019 |
There are loads of places I can put a vacuum hose. I just need to know where to put it on the Transmission. On the first picture at start of thread, the carb has one big port sticking out and two on the manifold. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 277 Registered: 11-2017 |
The vac modulator is on the r/s of the transmission. I mentioned this in an earlier post. It will be very obvious. I will take a pic for you. Stay tuned. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 278 Registered: 11-2017 |
here's a pic. It's the round part. There is a small rubber elbow that connects it to a metal line to the carb. The vac mods are also adjustable. You will most likely have to fiddle with a few things due to the increased CFM of the carb creating higher venturi flow=more vacuum.  . | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 179 Registered: 4-2019 |
While you were kindly out taking your pictures, so was I. And up where it is tighter to get at I finally scootered up in there and took this picture. Of course my part is better because it is protected from rush with all that oil and stuff. In other words I found it. You have a lift I bet. (I can't see where that sucker goes to, the line.)  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 280 Registered: 11-2017 |
Yup..I had 2 lifts and now have a Mohawk System 1 Now follow the line from the modulator to the engine and connect to the new carb.   . | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 184 Registered: 4-2019 |
Robert I think I saw on another forum you asking to buy one. If so congratulations. Must be nice. Want to trade my floor jack and wood for it? Come on yeah. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 281 Registered: 11-2017 |
I rarely use my Hein-Werner floor jacks or jack stands. The Mohawk was 3x the price of other popular lifts and so much better in quality and ALI certified. It was over $8k and don't regret it. PS they are hard to find used and if you do find one grab it! They are built like a tank and warranty is 25yrs. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 189 Registered: 4-2019 |
You can count on Rolls Royce.  | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 204 Registered: 4-2019 |
In clearing out the engine bay, (getting clean in there) I still have not come to the end of that transmission vacuum line and where it emerges out from under the blower vent to the left side. Any hints? | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 289 Registered: 11-2017 |
Ok did you follow the line from the modulator? If you follow the line you will come to the end, right? | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 210 Registered: 4-2019 |
It would be nice if I could see it to follow it. The line goes places I can't get my hand to or see. That's why I ask. You act like it's simple and I'm stupid. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 212 Registered: 4-2019 |
Well for anyone else (without x-ray vision) this may help you to find which vacuum line (and maybe other lines) come from point A to point B. As you can see in the picture, I hooked up a air connector to the line. Then quickly went to hear where it went. To my surprise and amazement I heard the sound coming out of my carburetor. Conclusion, it is already on the manifold and the transmission already has a vacuum supply. Yeep pee! Transmission vacuum supply solved. In the picture #1 is I hooked the connector to the line from the transmission. #2 The air supply. #3 is where it ends. #4 just to show the engine bay is startin to look gooood.  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 296 Registered: 11-2017 |
I knew you can do it! | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1365 Registered: 2-2013 |
Mike would that scuba gear bring Brezhnev back to life too? I'd like too watch him take Dick for another drive around Camp David but in a Cadillac CTS-V not a Lincoln this time. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 218 Registered: 4-2019 |
Vlad: I had to look up which one was Brezhnev I think he is the one saying "just a little more tongue". And I'm not even going to get into " take Dick for another drive around Camp David".  | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 409 Registered: 5-2016 |
Congratulations on getting the engine going Mike, you are an inspiration. Even though I lean more towards the purist persuasion I admire your achievements. The fact that it now runs will inspire you to keep making improvements until you have accomplished your mission. I might even become a convert to DIY bespoke transformations. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 219 Registered: 4-2019 |
I thought all Irish had a bit of rebel in them. Join the force Luke, come to the Dark Side. Thanks | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 220 Registered: 4-2019 |
I should point out also that the Camargue, and the Corniche had 4 barrels I think someone said. If so, it might still be within the realm of purist. You might then still get away with guzzling gas with the best. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 221 Registered: 4-2019 |
This might be going too far though.  | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1368 Registered: 2-2013 |
Well Mike there is a photo of Brezhnev trucking, oops did I say trucking the front of his Shadow in Moscow together with some hilarious stories of Kissinger ( no pun intended ) seizing the Lincoln Continental in Washington after Brezhnev took Nixon for a little spin, a very fast little spin down a road at Camp David. Hilarious for the Secret Service Chaps that day. Also, quite a comical video, with actors playing Nixon and Brezhnev but sadly computers hate me and I don't have the ability to post the above. Besides Uncle RasPutin is listening. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 997 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, Is your portable air tank a converted helium tank? | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 232 Registered: 4-2019 |
Ross Freon | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1010 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, Good choice, not to heavy and pressure rated. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 238 Registered: 4-2019 |
On the brake pumps the sleeves with the Y is supposed to come off, right? Just take off the circle pin, and work hard at it. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 410 Registered: 5-2016 |
Yep Mike, remove the circlip and the pipe connections and the pump housing should lift off but it's likely to be very stiff. A squirt of WD40 into the pipe connections on the housing may help. When you finally get the pump off you will also need to remove the pushrod that goes from the pump to the camshaft and then find a way to plug the hole that's left in the top of the engine. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 411 Registered: 5-2016 |
Forgot to mention that you may need to remove the distributor to get at the rear pump. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 244 Registered: 4-2019 |
The last time I removed a distributor I had major problems with the oil pump. But I don't need to take it off. What I have been doing is, as you said, squirting WD40 on the circlip area, not down the pipe connections, I call the Y (that is OK?). If I could get at the pushrods I would leave the pumps in place for now. I'm worried about driving it into the garage with little or no brake fluid (someone wants them or I would just bust them up, to get them out). | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3229 Registered: 4-2003 |
Mike, DO NOT smash the pumps - they are made from unobtainium and can be sold to restorers/service shops. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 305 Registered: 11-2017 |
Keep in mind you have NOOOO brakes and figure out how you will stop over 5000 lbs. Do not smash the pumps..I will buy them. There is a short pushrod below each pump that you remove. DO NOT squirt anything down the orifices..it will not achieve anything....but you will wash off any lube around the camshaft which is a disaster. I would get a friend to push the car into the garage. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 249 Registered: 4-2019 |
Robert I was thinking the park brake will slow it, and I would not go over 1/2 mph and have 2 by 4s lined up to stop it. Pushing a Rolls up an inclined plane. Nope. I'm anti-social don't have friends. (No WD40 down orifices, bad thing. Got it.) | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 308 Registered: 11-2017 |
The "parking brake" on these cars, even when properly adjusted, cannot safely hold the car on an incline. They are way undersized and engineered for the heavy mass and when referred to as an "emergency brake" it's a bigger fallacy. Ok what happens if for some reason the throttle sticks? Known as the "X" factor. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 254 Registered: 4-2019 |
Throttle sticks, turn key, or put your head between you legs and kiss your asp goodbye. He might bite though. I got it to its current location by pulling it with my truck about 5 feet, then having to reposition the truck, and another 5 feet etc. Then the rest of the way back by come along. Took most of the day, without the engine. (Couldn't hold the car on an incline, one bolt on that massive carb. I'm starting to understand why kids sing London bridge is falling down. ) | ||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 292 Registered: 11-2018 |
Mike, London Bridge now resides in Arizona. It was bought by a USA tycoon in 1968 and shipped to USA and rebuilt by you guys brick by brick so build quality your problem now...... You better make a good job of rebuilding that RR With those huge scuba pipes the carb was like walking on a tight rope with a balance bar...it only needed one bolt. Cost and weight saving at its best  | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 255 Registered: 4-2019 |
OK I have a major fear of putting gas in a tank that sat for 11 + years. With the white oxidation that builds up on the inside of a gas tank from moisture, and running it through that new carburetor. On the 1964 Imperial I had to rebuild the carb. because the oxidation clogged the ports. It mixes with the gas like sugar, then dries in the ports. What can I run through there that will not harm the fuel sender, but eliminate the white oxidation? | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 256 Registered: 4-2019 |
I hope when the Americans rebuilt the bridge they redesigned it using more than one bolt. The brits say: 4 bolts we don't need 4 bolts to hold on a carburetor that's for pussies (cats). We're British, we only need one bolt. London bridge is falling down, falling down falling down, that's because they only used one bolt! Sorry, back to the fear factor of white oxidation. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 257 Registered: 4-2019 |
Pump smash, wasn't that a band? Anyway I tend to, at least in my mind, work on more than one thing at a time. So how can I pull up on the brake pump sleeve and twist it back and forth without damaging it? (If you could open my brain and look at it, it would look like an old pin ball machine. You might have noticed.) | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 312 Registered: 11-2017 |
Remove circlip, remove top fitting. Wrap a rag around the body and twist...or use rag and channelock for leverage. They will have no resale if molested. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 258 Registered: 4-2019 |
Would vinegar harm the electric parts in a gas tank? | ||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 293 Registered: 11-2018 |
Well Mike I sure would not flush vinegar through. As for the single bolt maybe there must be a lot of us purest with original carbs and that like to keep our cars original about to see them fall off then in your opinion. BTW there are no electrical parts in the gas tank. The in tank pumps a more modern conception. As for the London bridge song scenario it was heavily bombed during the war and that was what weakened it. However British built it still stood and there were no pussy engineers if you know your history we were the best bridge designers and builders in the world and even commissioned by the French to design the tallest bridge in the world not that long ago....Millau Viaduct Maybe its time for me to go and help on the other RR forum | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 259 Registered: 4-2019 |
Sorry to touch a nerve, just joking. But one bolt on a carb that size, yeah, don't know how the gasket even stays sealed. That little bolt holding all that on. I would not do it that way. London bridge built 1824, Brooklyn bridge 1869. I was calling American engineers pussies (cats). Well going to work. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2123 Registered: 9-2004 |
Mike the two dowels keep the manifold from moving latterly and the one bolt used just to torque the manifold down. I seem to remember that the Triumph Stag used a large rubber "O" ring with one holding down bolt with no dowels! | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 414 Registered: 5-2016 |
Yep Patrick, the Triumph Stag has a similar carb securing method for the twin strombergs and if I recall correctly there's an odd shaped washer with 2 straight sides & 2 round sides under the nut because a completely round washer wouldn't fit. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 260 Registered: 4-2019 |
*** Houston, The Eagle Has Landed ! *** I drove my 1975 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow into the garage. A giant step considering it has no brakes. It landed without a scratch to anything along its arduous journey, albeit short. Yes Boys and Girls it was a feat of danger like no other. Accomplished through Aussie technology of inventing a forum that folks from around the world come and are kind enough to tell this poor smuck how to fix his luxury automobile. Let the journey begin, its our continuing mission to explore strange new worlds, to seek out new life and new civilizations, to boldly go where no man has gone before. No wait, that's Star Trek. I'm just fixing a car, now inside my garage. The day started most like any other. Looked on this forum, told a joke (that Steve Emmott misinterpreted and may not be back). Told by Robert J. Sprauer scary things about "X" files, no it was "X" factors, so I decided to get my car into the garage. Picture: [took car off jacks and wood], [put wood on floor in garage in case the car failed to stop], [got the car running again and tried to test putting it in drive, nothing happened, found transmission linkage was taken off, put it on], [got it driving very slow, turned it around in a big circle, headed toward my garage, came to the incline of the first bay of my garage pushed the park brake to the floor, car stopped, gently pushed the gas with park brake on three or four time, car backfired and stopped]. I got on radio and notified Houston that The Eagle Has Landed. No that was the moon shot. Eventful day, YEEP PEE !  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 313 Registered: 11-2017 |
I see your floor jack is ready..do you know where to place it so you don't damage anything?...it happens to the many. Don't assume. Sometimes what appears to be "the spot" isn't so. Find out in the workshop manual. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 261 Registered: 4-2019 |
As rusted as this car is, the only place I'm putting a jack is on those big bolts, near the wheels. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 314 Registered: 11-2017 |
Floor jack goes under the differential and not the differential carrier it is bolted to. It will raise the whole rear so you can place the blocks under the wheels. Don't assume there are logical jack points. Remember these are strange cars to the average mechanic and that's why we have forums to give advice and learn and keep 'em alive. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 262 Registered: 4-2019 |
Humm you got that big o'l honking Mohawk System 1, where do you put the blades? ( Just asking, don't get mad and run off.) But I usually don't like putting it under the differential for two reasons. It teeters and that jack isn't worth crap. (Can't complain I got it for free.) | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1371 Registered: 2-2013 |
Teeter it may, fall it will not, so put it under the diff. And don't use bricks to hold it up unless you have a death wish. Use hard wood blocks or Chrysler wheels with tyres. Or proper jack stands in the RIGHT positions. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 315 Registered: 11-2017 |
Jack points, lift points and tow points are explained and illustrated in the workshop manual. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 264 Registered: 4-2019 |
That will not tell me where YOU put it. The only place you can put it is where I put my jacks. And please, if you don't want to tell me the answer don't say look it up for your self. I don't need to come here for that. At least give me a hint as subframes or something there are 18 pdfs to go through. I don't have that time. Thanks | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1372 Registered: 2-2013 |
Sorry Mike but I am 3,000 miles away from my cars at the moment so I can't tell you. Perhaps, one of the other contributors will post up photos for you. I used the suspension for the stands at the front and can't remember at the rear,however, if you are not going to be removing the wheels putting hardwood blocks under your tyres would be safe with car in park and handbrake on. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 266 Registered: 4-2019 |
Vlad I'm sure you are in Thailand getting your wood rubbed (we call it sanding). I here they do the best rubbing there. Yeah rear is tricky, no real differential like most cars of that age. That's really what my jack stands are for. I went to Perth on a visa run. Thought it too much like the USA. Japan railroads were a big disappointment, I thought it would be smooth as glass. Maybe medieval glass real curvy. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3233 Registered: 4-2003 |
Mike, Subject to verification by the appropriate authority, I suspect you may have the forum record for starting the thread with the most number of posts entered by respondents. If time permits in the next few days, I will try and ascertain if this is correct and advise accordingly. | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1373 Registered: 2-2013 |
Mike I truly wish I was getting wood rubbing done in Bangkok but sadly I am in WA working 65 hour weeks at almost 63 years old for a total lunatic whose mechanical theories come from the planet Zog. There is a post where Bill Coburn the author of T One Topics and I discuss where the jack stands go. Whether you can easily locate that post using the search function I don't know and then I really don't know if the Camargue I have is identical underneath as a Shadow because the bodies are very different. It may be prudent to wait until someone else posts more precise info or photos up. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3234 Registered: 4-2003 |
Have now done a preliminary search covering posts from 2010 to today with the following outcomes: Outright Winner with 263 posts goes to the Silver Shadow "Photos of our cars" topic. Second place in this group went to "Brake System Using Booster and Master Cylinder" topic with 230 posts with this thread still currently active. Outright Second Place with 234 posts goes to the Idler Chatter "Together we will meet in 2017" topic with 234 posts. Second place in this group went to the "Watches" topic with 155 posts. Outright Third Place with 128 posts goes to the Spirit Series "Boost Control - Turbocharged cars bring it back up to scratch" topic. Second place in this group went to the "1982 Spirit poor running" topic with 75 posts. A Honourable Mention for achieving 127 posts goes to the Silver Cloud and Bentley "Cleaning and renovation 1950's cotton covered wiring". Second place in this group went to the "Off with its head" topic with 52 posts. Sorry Mike for getting your hopes up too early but you are still in there with a currently active thread....... Hope this is as informative and interesting for everyone as it was for me and it will be informative if I can include the pre-2010 data .......................... | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 268 Registered: 4-2019 |
I have secretly noticed that and I have yet to get brakes installed. Plus I currently have 268 posts in my first month, 32 shy of Grand Master. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 269 Registered: 4-2019 |
I was hoping that someone out there knows a forum where one can ask technical questions about brakes as the correct master cylinder, to pot size etc. along with the added force a remote booster would add. And which ones I should buy and installed. I have a budget of around max $1500. Thanks Best I have found so far is: May be Master Cylinders Losses http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/brakecalcs.html | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 279 Registered: 4-2019 |
The PVC original pipe is hard steel that went to the scuba carb. It is worthless if you convert to a 4 barrel carb. So the Bubba fix is as pictured below. Then you can route a flexible hose to the air breather or to the carb. I would use a filter to keep the oil contained. Oh and inside that hard black plastic is asbestos, be careful and wear a mask when cutting it.  | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 294 Registered: 4-2019 |
If you have been following the progress of this car you probably know the engine is backfiring a bit. That usually means the timing is out. So I looked at the distributor and to my horror (of course) it is not like American cars. Now I hope the way to loosen it is that screw, so the distributor can be turned. Yes or no? As Larry Kavanagh said 10 April on timing: " I think you may have to do it the old fashioned way, by ear and with rev counter until you find the sweet spot." | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1375 Registered: 2-2013 |
Three Cheers to Texan Mike for starting posts that will prove invaluable to future custodians. I have always maintained that restoration of neglected RR/B was worthwhile, not necessarily financial but because these cars are a singular once in human history never to be repeated event. As we induct Mike into the hallowed realms of Grandmasters I think he should be given the coveted award of The Deadly Australian Racing Goanna. | ||
| Mike Thompson Prolific User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 296 Registered: 4-2019 |
Thanks Vladimir, I'm pretty sure there is not another Rolls Royce within a hundred mile radius. I went up to a brand new Corvette owner to ask to look at his engine (smaller than I thought BTW) and said I was thinking of putting an LS in my Rolls Royce. Even though he had a brand new Corvette he said a Rolls Royce, Wow. I did not buy it to part it out, I bought it to drive it, I feel as you do. Grand master in less than a month. A little OCD goes a long ways and a thread with the most posts. I think as far as I could find I am the only person to convert the existing intake manifold 2 barrel carb (scuba carb) into a 4 barrel. And put American brakes in replacement of that complicated system, using existing parts (rat trap, and calipers). Others trash it all and go with American calipers etc. as well, (I may have to as well, 2500 to 3000 psi is pretty high). | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 311 Registered: 4-2019 |
Boy getting these sleeves off of the brake pumps are proving to be very difficult and I have yet to make the socket to fit the pump. The whole system looks like the inside of this sleeve (I think).  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 344 Registered: 11-2017 |
Just whack it off with a hammer...true Texas style. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 315 Registered: 4-2019 |
The problem is I can't get a hammer in there, it is the front one (#1) between the manifold, the thermostat housing and the AC pump. Or I would Texas the hill out of that one. I tried to make a socket thingy but the pipe is too thick to get in there either. I might use laser surgery, 13.6 gigga watts and a flux capacitor. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 347 Registered: 11-2017 |
Or you could wrap a chain around it and attach to your pickup and pull it out like a bad tooth..just a thought | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 317 Registered: 4-2019 |
If I still had my engine hoist I'd throw a chain up around a beam, hook it to that thing and either it would come out or pick up the car. Where is a good strong door and a rope when you need one. "like a bad tooth" good one. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 348 Registered: 11-2017 |
Did you ever consider...for a minute..that this brake dream is a big waste of time and energy? What happens if it doesn't work and your left with a carcass that is now worth even less money? Think about it. The RR brake system is designed for the car and very well at stopping 5000 lbs at hi speed. And I might add for $1000-1200 it could be put back to working condition like new and add value to the car.. Did this ever occur to you or do you just want to dig deeper into the rabbit hole.? | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 318 Registered: 4-2019 |
I do have a plan B. If I can't get it to work, I can buy a junk Chevy truck with a good 6.8l engine in it, with a good frame, pick the Rolls body up and the same with the truck, swap it out. Good stopping power and will stay up with a Corvette. Get the whole thing probably less than $1000. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 349 Registered: 11-2017 |
That would be a great idea! | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2089 Registered: 5-2012 |
Do you mean like this:  | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 319 Registered: 4-2019 |
No that's horrid. It would look the same just be bad asp on the inside, like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lT4R3hyB1oM Like I think they should be. I thought RRs where like the Cadillacs with 500 ci or Chryslers 413 ci with 4 barrelsanf top speeds around 130 to 140 mph. Not 106 mph on a good hill. I tried to find that Mark Caro to ask him how he got that dual booster master cylinder in there. I could not find him. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 339 Registered: 4-2019 |
Can these RR be converted to electronic ignition, with a new distributor? I found on my C10 Chevy truck it runs much better and you no longer have to fiddle with the points. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 340 Registered: 4-2019 |
Speaking of distributors, Larry Kavanagh was saying I would have to fiddle with the timing after changing the carb. The car runs, but it is prone to backfire. A sure sign it is out of time. I assume you unscrew that long lock screw to move the distributor? (yes or no) Electronic ignition? Thanks | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 354 Registered: 11-2017 |
Do you know what points look like vs electronic ignition? EI after #22673 | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 355 Registered: 11-2017 |
Also found on some cars for the NA market at 20755 | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1380 Registered: 2-2013 |
Geoff that photo of the Shadow with two tyres cut into the boot gets my vote for the most obscene and totally sick photo this month. Possibly not as bad as the present Russian Roulette internet video but close. Top Marks to Robert for hilarious tooth pulling joke. I always enjoy a cackle and that was a hoot nanny. Mike your Rolls braking system is good standard but I have hauled my 76 Cadillac down from 100 mph quite a few times and the G Forces are strong. A Rolls Royce engine can be built that will make big horse power but that costs quite a bit Nitros Oxide injection aside. Yes you can convert your car to electronic ignition but carry a spare distributor unless you can deal with tow truck fees vandalism theft etc. Leaving any Rolls Royce unattended anywhere is inviting the unwashed to plunder it. I very much enjoy your madcap capers with your Shadow Mike ...keep it up, you have indeed possibly created a totally new art form. A visit to the next Rolls Royce Club Event will definitely have the conservatives frothing at the mouth and biting either you or their door handles off or both. Please remember your dress etiquette and wear the white gloves. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 342 Registered: 4-2019 |
Yeah I would like to show up with the railroad ties for bumpers. Carved with a chain saw, and spray painted silver. An LS under the hood, and a brake booster sticking out the size of the wheels. With white surgical gloves on asking Rolls Royce Clubers who is first for that free prostrate exam. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 343 Registered: 4-2019 |
Singing (I'm New Money) Come and listen to my story about a man named Jed A poor mountaineer, barely kept his family fed, And then one day he was shootin at some food, And up through the ground come a bubblin crude. Oil that is, black gold, Texas tea. Well the first thing you know ol Jed's a millionaire, The kinfolk said "Jed move away from there" Said "Californy is the place you ought to be" So they loaded up the truck and they moved to Beverly Hills, that is. Swimmin pools, movie stars. The Beverly Hillbillies | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 349 Registered: 4-2019 |
My RR's First Run and Drive https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z5o1ljesno | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 365 Registered: 4-2019 |
Of course The Beverly Hillbillies road into town in this hunk of Texas Pride.  | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 366 Registered: 4-2019 |
I now know how to fill that little hole. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z5o1ljesno  | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 399 Registered: 4-2019 |
Does the ac expansion valve need to be straight up? As on page C35. I need to get it out of my way, and lay it down, but I don't know if it will work that way. | ||
| Tim Lane Yet to post message Username: timlane Post Number: 1 Registered: 1-2019 |
Hi Mike, I've been running my 1972 Shadow with the Edlebrock for a couple of years now, the carb really suits the engine I wouldn't want to revert to the SUs    I am interested to see how you have mastered the linkage, mines rubbish. I find there is not enough movement on the pedal to give full throttle, hence trying to elongate the arms to give longer radius. Mine still sits too high, bonnet shuts ok but traps the air filter, when fitted, so I am working on a second adapter plate. Regards Tim   | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1064 Registered: 11-2015 |
Tim, Nice lathe, Sterling? I see what appears to be a spacer block. You could go thinner if you used a material that was a better insulator. Maybe that would help with you hood interference issues. The linkage appears to move from the drivers to the passengers side, why not mount the carb 90 degrees and have the linkage of the carb on the back side in line with the car linkage? If I was going to go with a single carb rather than SU (which I would never do) I would use a holley. Why edlebrock? | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 390 Registered: 11-2017 |
www.hotrodparts.com This co has addressed the brake issue. You could also use a silver spirit/spur II intake manifold that were built with carbs. The intake opening is far too small to handle a large CFM carb and you will not get the performance needed. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2140 Registered: 9-2004 |
"The intake opening is far too small to handle a large CFM carb and you will not get the performance needed." How do you know you don't know what mods he will do yet. There are many ways to modify the induction system etc. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 392 Registered: 11-2017 |
Patrick It's pretty obvious. If you look at intake manifolds designed for hi CFM carbs you will see the difference, for example look at a Spirit II carb intake manifold..get the idea. You can only do so much with the factory setup. I'm not saying it can't be done but the "carb adapter" or whatever that is plus the stock intake is will not yield performance. Reliability perhaps...I can't wait until I see the bonnet mod. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2141 Registered: 9-2004 |
"carb adapter" or whatever that is plus the stock intake is will not yield performance". I can think of three simple ways to improve volumetric efficencey with the original inlet manifold with what is going on here. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 394 Registered: 11-2017 |
I think in general terms we have to know what the objective is. Is it reliability over the carb set up or performance. If it is performance, that is a much longer road to follow..one has to deal with many more factors so everything from intake , ignition and exhaust is at peak performance and efficiency. The exhaust on these cars are for quieting and performance suffers especially the exhaust manifolds. I do have a desire one day to truly modify a SY series car and have my own ideas and trust me it will be very thought out and absolutely sinister on the streets. Keeping things stock can be restrictive and I do understand and respect the creative process to think outside the box. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 408 Registered: 4-2019 |
The Travel Problem. These RRs have the tiniest travel of the foot pedal I've seen. On LHD cars they use the RHD carb linkage but put a bar between them. In this application it is unnecessary. Using what is in the picture, unhook the linkage from the bar, make a linkage shaft long enough to reach the top of the engine. Make a bell lever that the pedal shaft hooks to, that is say 1 inch, and at the other end a 5 inch +- lever shaft that will give us some 6 inches of travel for the carb. Plenty to kick in that 4 barrel and see what happens. I like your design. Expensive, a block of aluminum is around $200 that I found, so I used steel.  | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 409 Registered: 4-2019 |
Here is the general idea.  | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 437 Registered: 5-2016 |
I missed your question about moving the distributor to set the timing Mike, sorry. On my car (1979 Silver Shadow) there is a clamp just above the engine at the lower part of the distributor shaft housing. There's a nut & bolt tightening that clamp which need to be loosened and the distributor should rotate by hand but it might be stiff if it hasn't been moved in a long time so some penetrating oil allowed to soak in for a few hours might free it up. In my case the distributor was so stiff that I had to get a soft length of timber covered in a rag which I placed against the distributor casing and gently tapped with a hammer until I managed to get a slight movement. Since then it has moved freely by hand. Be careful because the distributor housing is fragile. Your misfiring or backfiring may not be due to timing issues but could be as a result of a vacuum leak at the carbs or intake manifold which would cause a lean fuel mixture. The only time I experienced a misfire was when I inadvertently left a vacuum line disconnected. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 410 Registered: 4-2019 |
As you might imagine after taking off the scuba carb and all the emission control, there would be lots of line connectors I had to cap. I think I got them all, I can take another look. The carb did come with instructions and maybe a video. The running part has not been a priority because I have yet to address the stopping part. Although I did move it into the garage it was at about 1/2 mph, 1/2 of a 10th of a mile. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1069 Registered: 11-2015 |
Mike, Larry is quite right on with the air leaks. I would put on a vacuum gauge. That usually tells everything one need s to know about the engines internals. I would also make sure your dizzy advance weights are free and the return springs work as well. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1070 Registered: 11-2015 |
Robert and Mike, The engine is pretty low static compression and probably not very optimized at moving large quantities of air in or out, so a turbo would seem the the best call. ( as bently did) Add high octane petrol, a methanol or h20 injection system and a knock sensor and you could more safely turn up the wick on the boost for a more spirited feel. I look forward to the go faster thread. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 413 Registered: 4-2019 |
Ross "the go faster thread" That will need to be in a future episode of As The Rolls Turns, because as you know the only way to stop it right now is friction with the road or a tree or something. I'll need to take it a few laps around my parking lot first to see if all 4 wheels lock up and stop her. Then a road test, then somewhere well away from everything, kick in that 4 barrel. See if it can do better than turtle power, 11.6 seconds 0 to 60. Stay tuned. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 414 Registered: 4-2019 |
As you can see I got rid of all the RHD scuba carb linkage that I will not be using. And making a linkage system that will be more robust and have enough travel to open the 4 barrel. Which the old linkage could not.  | ||
| Tim Lane New User Username: timlane Post Number: 2 Registered: 1-2019 |
Thanks Ross, its a Tos Trencin, nice and heavy. I have considered turning the carb 90 degrees but I think it has baffels inside to stop the fuel slopping about that may not work side on? But I may well turn it 180, I guess the linkage is on that side for the american LHD. I have a Land rover V8 and an early Range Rover both with 4.6 motors that I have fitted an Edlelbrock manifold and Carb to and therefore one day I was looking at the Rolls and well thats how I came to use the Edlelbrock. Yes the spacer/insulator is too big, only one I had at the time so I will swop that out.I was just keen to see if it would work. My motivation in this is to improve the overall running of the Rolls, rather than extra performance. Thanks Mike thats very helpful point taken your absolutely right that first lever is too long, hadnt thought of that, I will let you know how it goes. Did Rolls fit a Four barrel carb for the American market? solex? be good to get one of those inlet manifolds Thanks for all the replies. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 398 Registered: 11-2017 |
Look for a Spirit/Spur with carb and you will find the proper intake manifold. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 415 Registered: 4-2019 |
The reason I came to this site in the first place was I knew I was putting a 4 barrel onto my Rolls. The shop owner had already ripped out everything because he was going to put in a 4 barrel. So I was just going to continue the work. Below is the thread that brought me here. V8 Engine SU Carburettor Replacement http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/30/23258.html Somewhere I thought it said, that to buy one of the 4 barrel manifolds would cost $2500 (I couldn't find it). That is the price I paid for the car so I moved on from that idea. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 399 Registered: 11-2017 |
Look into wrecking yards , Ebay and Tony Handler in CA for a manifold. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 400 Registered: 11-2017 |
www.ebay.com/itm/ROLLS-ROYCE-FUEL-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-SILVER-SPUR-90/121996963608?hash=item1c6795ef18:g:wqsAAOSw7ehXRZww | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 418 Registered: 4-2019 |
Sorry that's not even close.  This one maybe. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/30/23248.jpg | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1075 Registered: 11-2015 |
http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/30/23258.html?1482589589 | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1076 Registered: 11-2015 |
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/81-to-87-ROLLS-ROYCE-SILVER-spur-spirit-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-COVER-good-condition-/332283811095 | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 422 Registered: 4-2019 |
I have been trying to track down others that have converted their RR to a 4 barrel. Rare event like waiting for a proton to decay. This is from 2013 drhill (what is the answer?) correct manifold vacuum for 6.75L engine? Hello All, Have a 73 Shadow and trying to troubleshoot a possible vacuum leak. ( i have a 4 barrel edelbrock carburetor installed in place of the twiin SU's). What is the correct vacuum reading range for this engine at idle? Right now I am seeing 15.5 to 16 in. of vacuum at a 700 rpm idle...but from past experience with other vehicles this feels a bit low, like it should be closer to 20 in. My timing is at factory spec of 5 degrees advanced... Thank you for the help! | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 427 Registered: 4-2019 |
I took a look at the Speed Control, I thought it was a cruse control, but it can't be, there is nothing hooked to the pedal. How did it work (past tense)? And vacuum above. | ||
| h_kelly Grand Master Username: h_kelly Post Number: 328 Registered: 3-2012 |
Mike a small chain, like a sink plug chain the, linked bellows to acceleration linkage https://www.introcar.co.uk/lookbook/cruise-control-bellows-silver-spirit-spur-mulsanne-eight-chassis-numbers-01010-06608-usa-japan-fuel-carburation-li2153 | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 428 Registered: 4-2019 |
Another one of those moments where I say "So that's what that is". I saw that in one of the boxes and wondered. I'm betting it is supposed to be air tight. And where does it go besides a box of unknown items?  | ||
| h_kelly Grand Master Username: h_kelly Post Number: 329 Registered: 3-2012 |
http://www.rrsilvershadow.com/Techn/Elek/Elekcruise.htm | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 429 Registered: 4-2019 |
I guess I'll just have to get me a little piece of string, put it through the firewall and when I get to the speed I want, twirl it around the air vent knob and ride merrily ride. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/15907.jpg | ||
| h_kelly Grand Master Username: h_kelly Post Number: 330 Registered: 3-2012 |
Mike check out jaguar xj6 cruise control, I believe it may be similar to the rolls | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 403 Registered: 11-2017 |
That is the cruise control bellows and is operated by vacuum. There would be a ball chain on one end. The bellows in many cases can be replaced by parts from Jaguar. Your idea of a string thru the firewall makes more sense and cheaper too. | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 430 Registered: 4-2019 |
If one wants more than a string (a joke) then this thread tells much more: https://www.rollsroyceforums.com/forums/26-sy-series-i-ii-1965-1980/12050-cruise-control-bellow.html | ||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 495 Registered: 4-2019 |
For those following this project lurking in your own universe like the dark matter supermassive black hole that passed through our galaxy and only left a string of stars disturbed as proof. Or kind of unrelated the star with alien life that blocks it out for days or weeks and no one can figure it out. The star https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gypAjPp6eps https://www.wherestheflux.com/ Dark matter black hole https://www.mnn.com/earth-matters/space/stories/massive-hole-milky-way-galaxy Anyway still working on the linkage and trying to increase the travel of the pedal to the new carb so it will kick in the 4 barrel. Stay tuned. | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 523 Registered: 4-2019 |
I believe this is the final form of linkage to give enough travel to kick in the 4 barrel. I had to reposition the arm to make room for an obstruction and to give it more travel. It just needs a hole drilled in the arm to connect it to the carb. There is no longer the RHD connection linkage on the RH side. And parts from that were moved to the LH side to get linkage from the pedal to the device pictured.  | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 2145 Registered: 6-2006 |
EFI is a great option if you want to delete your Solex! :D https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DHZ0LbEZqf6VVdESj889TDMEePDdSgWw | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3312 Registered: 04-2003 |
Paul, WELCOME BACK - We have missed your contributions and observations. Have you come across any conversions where later R-R/B EFI systems [or others] have been retrofitted to a pre-emission UK high compression Shadow 1 vehicle? . | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 526 Registered: 04-2019 |
This site explains the EFI very well and all you have to do to convert to the EFI as well as what manifold you must have, which the original equipment will not work with. (At least without an adapter as I built.) "Throttle body EFI systems can be easily installed on almost any engine with a square bore 4150 or 4500 style intake manifold." So I'm not sure what manifold is being shown in the picture but the original manifold, as I have, would not work. Carburetor and EFI Conversions https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/08/carburetor-and-efi-conversions/   | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 530 Registered: 04-2019 |
I added all the steps it took to get a 4 barrel onto the original manifold and the adapted linkage in the thread: 1975 Silver Shadow How To Dismantle And Restore. (For the record.)  | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3316 Registered: 04-2003 |
Mike, My request to Paul was general in nature as I am well aware of the problems involved in fitting a multipoint EFI system to existing carburettor engines where a single point system would eliminate most of these problems. IMHO a multipoint EFI system would necessitate the fitting of cylinder heads from a factory-installed multipoint injection engine however logic suggests a full engine replacement would most likely be appropriate. The question of fitting a turbo Bentley engine then becomes very tempting. The solution is probably to buy a good Turbo R and be done........ | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 532 Registered: 04-2019 |
David There is an associate I know who owns a repair shop. He has a Chevy C10 short bed truck (mine was a long bed and for some reason down here that makes a difference). He has the same 350 hp engine in his as I did. Yet somehow he put in a fuel injection system that I believe he said was from the time. I have never been interested in it until now. So the next time I am by that way I will pop in and take a look at it (if it is around, which it usually is). I am pretty sure it was not multipoint (it looked the same as mine). I just checked and wiki says that in the 1980s Throttle-body Injection by General Motors was introduced (but air planes had it in the 40s). Our C10 trucks are 1975 so close enough. I'm sure if it were me I would rather just drop a truck LS engine in there and maybe it would even mount to the transmission (at least with an adapter). | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 535 Registered: 04-2019 |
David You brought up Bon Ami as a stainless steel cleaner shiner the only reason I know about that is the old movie called "The Ghost and Mr. Chicken" With (Barney Fife) Don Knotts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWFGYFPAXRM And the review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihyOTPGzs0A | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3318 Registered: 04-2003 |
Mike, Away from my unlimited data broadband connection so will have to wait for a week or two before I can watch the videos  . Bon Ami [French for "good friend"] came in an easily recognised yellow container with red writing and had a logo of a chicken with the claim "Hasn't scratched yet".  . | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 692 Registered: 04-2019 |
If you are doing your brakes the way I am with a vacuum booster master cylinder with a slave clutch cylinder from the original RR master cylinder you will need a vacuum adapter for the carburetor. It is supposed to be an Edelbrock 8080 adapter but my local stores did not find that number in their system, but they did find an adater that matched the threads of the plug supplied with the carb. Not sure why the vacuum booster adapter is not supplied as well with the Edelbrock 1405 carb, witb a vacuum booster common on most cars (in the USA). It might be good to note for future travelers, that the way we matched the adapter to the plug, was to first find an adapter with the hose nipple on it, then match the threads by sticking the two together and seeing if they match. Then using a caliper to measure if both were the same diameter for a perfect match. | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 693 Registered: 04-2019 |
Oh and here is some pictures to make it clear what I am talking about.   | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2173 Registered: 09-2004 |
Oh dear do not like this setup at all, a brake adaptor in the carb and no check valve [a way one way valve that only allows airflow to go in one direction and closes in the opposite] this gives the brake booster a consistent supply of vacuum needed to assist the driver when braking! The position of the check valve would be better in the inlet manifold! As for the use of the master cylinder and slave to operate the booster, being a single circuit this is most dangerous set up. Will look at the Tesla setup as that may help or the Citroen rotary pressure pumps. BTW airbags for the rear suspension could work well. | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 695 Registered: 04-2019 |
Well like the elephant in the dark you are only seeing part of the picture. The booster has the check valve on it. And the back piston of the brake master cylinder (MC) is going only to the front of the car while the front piston of the MC is going to only the back. I would think if you were to drive my 1964 Chrysler Imperial you would be terrified that it only has one piston in the master cylinder and one line out to all the brakes, nothing more. But that is why American cars have emergency brakes that will (eventually) stop the car. Don't under estimate the park brakes on the RR, it took a lot of revs to overcome their force to come into the garage. In other words it stopped it just fine (at slow speeds admittedly). Also you might recall this is a test, if it don't work, plain B. Also I would have loved to put the vacuum in the manifold, but I could not even find anything on a manifold in the manual. And the water goes through the manifold. All I need is to hook it up to the wrong plug and have water going to the vacuum booster not vacuum. So for safety I put it on the carb as it says to do in the instructions of the carb. | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 696 Registered: 04-2019 |
The dark side of the moon.   | ||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 345 Registered: 03-2012 |
Mike you probably could have a 12volt vacuum pump beside the booster in the boot,.. if carb vacuum not good enough?. | ||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 698 Registered: 04-2019 |
On the van that I got this booster from, the vacuum for the booster came right below the carb. Although not directly connected to the carb it should have been about the same. Unless the RR engine is very different it should be enough. And I do not know which port on the manifold to trust. I'm not real keen on electrical devices on brakes after hearing GM had electrical hydraulics pumps for the brakes and if the fuse blew the car would not stop. Although you are talking about assist, not full control. (Something to think about though.) |
