| Author | Message | |||
     Graham Phillips Yet to post message Username: playtime Post Number: 1 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... First off I'm just finding my way around here as a soon (hopefully) to be new owner. Next month, Easter long weekend I am going to inspect a 77 Silver Shadow Series II. I come from a family of engineers (mostly Aviation but some automotive) and was taught by my father how to look after/maintain/ service vehicles etc. I seem to be getting mixed data on the fuel tank capacity depending on the source, would it be 80ltrs or 107ltrs? What range can I expect from a full tank highway mileage? If I do get this one I will be going to look at I will be driving it home and I am looking at a 1,700klm trip. All info I have on this Rolls is its been well maintained (have been sent PDF files of service records) and will have just had oil/filter changed and coolant flushed before I go inspect it. I've looked at U-tube vids on servicing the SU carbs and balancing them. My first car I ever had and still have is naturally aspirated and just happens to be one I was taught mechanics on so I am not phased by this technology. This being my first post I'll keep this one short,... Thanks. Graham. | |||
| Benoit Leus Grand Master Username: benoitleus Post Number: 387 Registered: 6-2009 |
Hi Graham and welcome. The Shadow is a wonderfull car if well maintained and should prove utterly capable of doing the 1700km trip. Fuel tank capacity is 107 litres. On my car I average around 18litres/100kms when driving on the motorway at a constant speed. This rises to 22-22l/100kms when mixed with smaller roads and some city driving. Hopefully the car turns out to be a good one. Cheers, Benoit | |||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 143 Registered: 3-2018 |
1700 kms is a big risk for a car you dont know - RR or otherwise | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 165 Registered: 11-2017 |
The Achilles heel with these cars is the hydraulics. It may start and run and look pretty but repairs/overhauls to the complex hydraulics can break you and requires a certain skill and intuition to understand. Many cars are left in shops due to these issues. I would would go "live" with the owner and have him run the motor for 2 min, shut off. Turn ignition to "start" (not run) and have him depress and count the brake pedal strokes while "live" with you. This will give you a hint regarding hydraulic condition. Look for a min of 25/30 pumps before the system 1 and system 2 warnings lights come on.Educating yourself beforehand is of upmost importance on these cars since so many lack or forgo maintenance. | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 2 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Glen, so far every vehicle I have touched has been beyond reliable, I'd like to think its because of what I have been taught not just because of who it was who taught me so I am going to inspect it before hand, more so than the average buyer not that I would ever suggest I am in some way infallible. I'd like to think there are more happy stories out there than disasters,... (fingers crossed) Thanks for the welcome Benoit, I am fairly light on the loud noise peddle when it comes to driving myself so I hope I can improve those figures a little with driving style and adjusting tyre pressures etc. I guess we will see, I'll have my video camera with me to document the trip so there will be a record for people to point and laugh at,... ;) I guess I have a learning curve to play with on my trip home. I wonder what peoples thoughts are on using full synthetic DOT 5 brake fluid would be? Since its not hydroscopic and will NOT absorb or mix with water I'm thinking of using it to extend service life considerably. Thoughts? Thanks. Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 112 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, There is lot more to the RR SU carbs than what you normally see. Primarily this is around the choke enrichment set up. Whilst nothing difficult..... the relays, timer delay relay, choke coil, choke solenoid and choke stove pipes all have to be right for getting best performance and fuel consumption. When I first bought my car all seemed well but I soon realised I was only achieving around 10 miles per UK gallon. The carb settings had been tampered with on carb adjustment to overcome the fact the stove pipes were rotten and also the tube inside the manifold so the choke opening was actually not fully functioning. The thermal time delay was also faulty and not functioning despite I had all the paperwork, some quite recent, of the car being looked after by a Porsche & RR/B specialist garage so was quite surprised to discover the lack of attention and quite frankly wondered even about the garages product knowledge in this area. After renewing all and rebuilding the carbs with modern rubbers then retuning mixtures I got the car up to 18 MPG. So on your long trip back do log what your consumption is as it will provide a good guide on whether you even need to think about any carb tuning. I assume you have read the post and links on what to look for when buying as this is a recent one just posted last week and I would certainly pay attention to the brake lights function and performance and the accumulator check process before starting off on a long journey. https://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2014/03/inspecting-1980-1999-rolls-royce-or.html I know the link refers to a later car but a lot is generic and I thought the information in this link was actually quite good. A lot can be determined from some decent pictures especially of the under bonnet condition so if you have any up load them. Best of luck it works out well for you and we hear back from you shortly. BTW I only use the correct brake fluid as specified. Not sure if the 77 year is the RR363 but many cars have had to have expensive rubber overhauls due to wrong brake fluid attacking the rubbers and not lubricating the pumps. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 166 Registered: 11-2017 |
Full synthetic DOT5 You must be kidding!! Not even DOT4 is used. DOT4 is allowable with 10% pharma grade castor oil. RR363 based systems need lubrication, hence the mix or RR363, Besides DOT5 does not absorb water and keeps it separated leading to other issues. I can't stress it enough that before you become a custodian for a RR/Bentley, especially a SY series car that you become knowledgeable on it's quirks, systems and faults. If not it will cost you dearly. "READ BEFORE YOU PROCEED" | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 113 Registered: 11-2018 |
Well summed up Robert  I wasn't sure at what point the change occurred. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 167 Registered: 11-2017 |
SY based cars always used RR363. Silver Clouds and earlier used traditional brake fluid. Cars after SY cars, known as SZ (1980-20,000 series)used mineral oil. The hydraulic pumps, pressure switches, distribution valves, height control valves, height solenoid, etc needed lubrication from the RR363 to work. The brake distribution valves for example do not have seals around the actuator rods and depend on lubrication. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2787 Registered: 6-2009 |
First, and I am not proposing it, there have been those that went DOT5 in SY cars and have had no issues for years. For me, the issues with availability of DOT 5 alone, combined with the fact that water will not be integrated into the fluid but instead settles out at low points is enough for me to say, "Absolutely, positively not!" Liquid silicone almost certainly has enough lubricity, but its other shortcomings and the amount of work needed to purge the system before introducing it just are not something I'd even consider. It's well known that I've been using YAK363 (90% DOT3, 10% pharmaceutical castor oil - others prefer the castor oil purified even further for model aircraft) for years now and it's worked fine. I've also posted quite a few photographs of my ongoing YAK363 aging experiment and the stuff does not separate (heading into 10 years now). Robert's advice to, "Read before you proceed," applies very broadly with these cars. I can say, though, that if the car runs and passes the pump test for the brakes with at least 10 pumps [and it should be 25-30] the car should be entirely safe to drive from a braking standpoint. How often have any of us, in any car, ever applied the brakes fully on/off 10 times to stop, and even the warning lights are not telling you that you have no brakes whatsoever, they're warning you that this is imminent. When I purchased SRH33576 in 2006, I drove it from Georgia to Virginia, covering just short of 1100 km, without incident. The following autumn, having done some work on her but not nearly what's been done after that, I took her on a RROC-US club tour, driving from Virginia to Utah and back, with plenty more during the tour, again without incident. In both cases, not knowing the car well yet, I was mentally prepared for the possibility of "failure to proceed" and what that would entail, and in your early months to years of ownership, until you know what's what about the car in general and in particular, you need to at least have the idea that you might fail to proceed in mind. Even after having one of these cars for years, that can happen. In 2013, seven years in to my ownership of SRH33576, I was out for a Christmas Day drive when the Lucas Opus system in the distributor decided to begin having serious issues, resulting in an FTP. With any old car, particularly if it is not driven regularly, your probability of FTPs increases dramatically. Sadly, due to other life circumstances, I have not been able to drive my cars nearly as much as I would like nor to spend as much time making improvements/maintaining them as I would like. They suffer from sitting. Most of these cars die not from wearing out, but from being treated as pieces of motorized sculpture, moving very infrequently and having all sorts of electromechanical systems suffer from that utter lack of use. It's easy to ignore or forego the sorts of maintenance you routinely do on a daily driver when a car is treated as a sacred object to be adored but not driven. I can say from my own experience, and I know many others have said it as well, that when it comes to the SY cars in particular the more you drive them the better they behave. They like regular exercise, and the more of that you can give them the stronger they get. You're not going to wear the car out. Brian | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 114 Registered: 11-2018 |
I remember (albeit some 30 years ago) and sorry I am searching my grey cells (worsened by too much wine at this time of night in the UK) but recall seeing an experiment where the typical old compound rubber seals were placed in mineral oil and alongside were later neoprene type seals placed in the same liquid. The old rubber seals had virtually become the size of a donut against the neoprene seal and had gone all mushy. Again IIRC this was exploited by some companies to market a product that supposedly 'sealed' leaking joints in steering pumps and the like by claiming to swell the rubber seals. I have always been of the view since then that it was the older rubber seals which are at risk putting in mineral brake fluid. Many classic cars have suffered engine fires which again I understood primarily was caused by later fuel affecting old rubber in the carbs hence when I got my RR I had Burlen SU UK supply all new carb and SU pump parts. Indeed I am that old I seem to remember the UK virtually controlled the rubber manufacturing as part of the 'British Empire' but had to give it up to the US to pay debts for the valuable support the USA gave in the WW. Got to go to bed now to get up early for the live Aus F1....love Ferrari... supported them for 40+ years but don't like Vettel...Leclerc well I might warm to....can't stand Hamilton with all the tax dodges.....geez left now maybe just to support Bottas albeit I suppose I should support Red Bull as it actually has its roots to Ford and Jaguar if only Christian Horner could string a sentence together without 'you know' 'you know'...........geez Patrick where are you with that scrumpy delivery  | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 168 Registered: 11-2017 |
Mineral oil compatibility is on Pg34. This is a handy chart when in doubt. https://www.sealingdevices.com/documents/oring_chemicalcompatibility.pdf | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2088 Registered: 9-2004 |
Years ago I had made up my mind to change from RR363 to Dot 5 but chickened out at the last moment. Been thinking out side the box and not by the manuals on this but with my engineering cap on. The point that keeps coming up is the design of the hydraulic system. First we have the pumps situated on top of the engine, the accumulators are situated on the side of the engine [both heating fluid], this tells me and confirmed by the long towing trips that I do that the heat build up within the reservoir, this IMO will cause any pooling of moisture low in systems to heat up and vent out through the fluid filler caps. If I am correct then the Dot 5 will be more than perfect for cars used on long journeys. BTW, no nitrogen in spheres, start the engine, engage the drive engine stalls, car on slight slope and off it goes, bang no brakes. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 169 Registered: 11-2017 |
Again...broadcasting wrong information to the forum. There is nothing in DOT 5 that will lubricate critical machined parts within the system. If DOT5 were ok it would have been blessed by the factory and individuals and labs that have more experience than you or I. Furthermore the brake fluid does not get hot enough to reach a temp to "boil off" any water. RR363 or DOT4 + caster is the only fluid recommended. End of story. Please do not lead people on with ideas that you think are correct because many of us do have either engineering degrees or decades of practical experience to know what is correct. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2089 Registered: 9-2004 |
Ah your wrong again, I think not, as there would no pooling running long term with heated Dot5 fluid within the system, vapour venting! A bonus is the slight wet Dot 5 waxing for lubrication around the moving parts.....with dot5. BTW did the factory recommend Dot 4 and castor even that IMO it is Ok to use it. start of story. MODERATOR INPUT: Forum respected elder Bill Coburn has acted as carer for a Government-owned Phantom VI in Canberra that had its brake fluid replaced with DOT 5 with consequent seal and other problems necessitating a full system flush with acetone and seal replacement. Also note water and DOT 5 are not miscible so the water will pond in the system and if the immediate environment/brake usage is hot enough, the water will boil leading to a partial or complete loss of braking. DOT 5 used in race vehicles is replaced regularly for this reason, RR363/YAK363 should be replaced as per the RR service recommendations. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 170 Registered: 11-2017 |
Re you using DOT5 in your car? | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2788 Registered: 6-2009 |
Robert, Please, DOT5 did not even exist on the commercial automotive market at the time the factory was recommending fluids. They went through three before settling on RR363. It is a fact that those of us who are custodians for these cars are faced with decisions where "factory original" might not be available or may very well not be the best anymore. Decisions will have to be made based upon known specs for what was OEM recommended and how closely to those specs an alternative might hew (or, potentially, be better). There are those who do argue that DOT4 + castor oil shouldn't be used, only DOT3, and the wet boiling point of DOT3 is actually higher than the wet boiling point of DOT4. I'm agnostic as to DOT3 versus DOT4, both seem to be working successfully as the base for YAK363 or OMAR363 [90/10 and 85/15 brake fluid to castor oil proportions, respectively]. I have been taken to task on way more than one occasion for using logical analysis skills to determine that a given functional replacement will work. It was the foundation for my decision to start using YAK363 and to change my cars over to Peak Global Lifetime coolant rather than stick with IAT coolant that requires changing every two years. Since application of critical thinking and logical analysis is going to be required to determine workable replacements into the future there's nothing wrong with doing such, and, in fact, it becomes essential. There are people who will argue to their death that so long as RR363 is available even the thought of using YAK363 is untenable. That's a perfectly legitimate opinion but one that's not been borne out by field trials by those of us who "went there." DOT5 is, effectively, liquid silicone, a lubricant in and of itself. See this reference (and there are others) on the Viscosity of Automotive Brake Fluids. DOT5 is well within the needed lubricity parameters and, as I said, others have reported back who've been using same for years without issue. EPDM is also entirely compatible with silicone oils (liquids), which is what the system seals and diaphragms are made of. It's just too impractical from the prep perspective, and since you really need to be changing out the brake/hydraulic fluid in these cars far more regularly than many, there's almost nothing to be gained by going DOT5 in my opinion. Some have gone there and all the cars seem to be living to tell the tale. I heard of one who went that way that actually filters and reuses his DOT5 when the system needs to be emptied and refilled. That idea makes me blanch, but it's his car (and, no, this is not a person of my personal acquaintance). Brian | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2091 Registered: 9-2004 |
Well done Brian we almost agree! See Moderator comment above - beware of the legal consequences of using a non-compliant with the car maker's service specifications item in any vehicle involved in a major accident especially one in which personal injury/death occurs. Better to be sure than sorry especially if the "Streaker's Defence" [it seemed a good idea at the time] is invoked. In today's litigious society, an "apparently wealthy owner because they own a R-R/B vehicle" is a tempting target for a compensation claim and the use of non-approved items gives the insurer a strong reason to deny liability for paying settlement of a judgement for compensation. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2789 Registered: 6-2009 |
Patrick, I at least try, always, to argue on the merits of the premise, and in light of facts. Your premise is tenable and your facts, accurate. Actually switching to DOT5 fluid is not direction that either one of us has taken, but that's not relevant, really. I am adamant about the fact that we, as custodians, are only going to face more and more decisions about what to do as originally specified fluids, etc., vanish from the earth. The best thing we can do is apply critical thinking skills and logical analysis to guide us in making those calls. I have also learned, during my 13 years in the rarefied world of cars from Crewe, that very often The Received Wisdom is anything but, and does not hold up to careful analysis. I've also learned that many who haunt forums such as this one have learned tricks and tips that just weren't even though about when the original documentation was produced. Richard Treacy's adaptations for bleeding the brake/hydraulic system, which I used as the basis for, Flush and Bleed Your Silver Shadow/Bentley T Hydraulics/Brakes the Easy Way, springs immediately to mind. There are things that field experience show to be superior to the Workshop Manual, though one should always be consulting same before doing any job. Brian | |||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1323 Registered: 2-2013 |
Welcome to the forum Graham. Apart from the braking system, there is another matter which needs to be addressed if your car is going to proceed for long and that is the cooling system for the aluminium V8 block unless you wish to dive fast down the rabbit's hole and proceed with an eye watering money disposal cost of engine out, cylinder liners out, full engine rebuild. THESE ENGINES NEED INHIBITOR IN THE COOLING SYSTEM AND COOLANT CHANGES AT SPECIFIED INTERVALS. So pull the radiator cap off and if you see rusty looking sludge in there WALK AWAY! Also, one each cylinder down from the cylinder head gasket is a tiny hole on the outside of the block which is about an eighth of an inch diameter. If those holes are weeping that is an indication of electrolysis happening. That is to say corrosion is building up between the aluminium block and the steel linings which will result in the liners squeezing inwards to the pistons causing a knocking sound followed eventually by major destruction of the pistons - nasty. This is not the path you want to travel without the correct specialized tools and a lot of labour. I don't think the driving experience of your own well maintained Rolls Royce or Bentley can be beaten if supercool extravagant luxury is your quest. Also, this forum is in my opinion, the best forum I have ever found on the internet for any car. A Silver Shadow II is a beauty to start with but be warned these cars are seriously addictive. Good luck. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2092 Registered: 9-2004 |
David. And I always use Dot 5-1 in my track car. Have not heard any race cars using Dot 5. Please please advice as I must be missing something!. BTW here in the UK it is a requirement to inform of any changes or modifications once agreed with the insurers there is no problem. DVLA has to be informed is some cases. | |||
| Mark Aldridge Grand Master Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 602 Registered: 10-2008 |
Patrick raises an interesting point with insurers, I doubt they will accept Yak363, without test data.They certainly will not agree to a LED headlight bulb conversion on my S1! Mark | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 3 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Steve Emmott: Thanks for that, I will be going through the mixture idle settings etc as I work my way through this vehicle, also I'll look at the choke and other points you made to be sure it is all working as designed. Robert: I mentioned Dot5 because just like Patrick I am thinking with my engineering brain, I am looking at it not absorbing water out of the atmosphere, the only other way water will ingress is through leaking seals. Also since the suspension system uses the same fluid it can handle pressure, I know this because I own a M35A2C and it uses Dot5 to operate under extreme conditions including total submersion. Also being an air over hydraulic brake system it handles 800psi easy, not that the Shadows systems require that much pressure. So a cursory comparison made the idea of Dot5 look good as I have a good supply. Like any new Vehicle I learn its tricks and nuances hence my asking questions first, act later. I do thank everyone for their responses as its made an interesting read. I'll keep it with what its using but I am just thinking out loud for now. Oh and Dot5 and Dot5.1 are not the same, 5.1 is a mineral oil modified to mimic the full silicone Dot5 Vladimir: I most certainly will be going over the cooling system, in fact the owner has told me he will be doing a full flush of the cooling system beforehand as well as an oil and filter change. I have considered that this may be an attempt to hide any issues as I would be looking at the condition of all fluids and looking at the engine for carbon build up etc,.... As for cars being addictive,.. well I have long gone so far down that hole I have lost sight of the light at the entrance! ;) Thanks. Graham. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2790 Registered: 6-2009 |
Graham Phillips wrote, in part: "Oh and Dot5 and Dot5.1 are not the same, 5.1 is a mineral oil modified to mimic the full silicone Dot5" That is not correct. None of the DOT fluids, including DOT 5.1, are mineral oil based. DOT 5.1 is the next in the series of glycol based fluids. This can be found on the Wikipedia page on brake fluid and lots of other more definitive sources, like the MSDS sheets for any brand of DOT 5.1 fluid you care to look at. You are correct that DOT 5.1 is intended to have many of the same properties as DOT 5 but using a glycol base, but that's as far as it goes. Mineral oil based fluids are in a class of their own. Brian | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 4 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Woops,.. I said mineral instead of glycol, my bad! But they are non compatible and should'nt be mixed. Ergo, they are not the same. Maybe I just phrased it badly. sigh,.... Graham. | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2066 Registered: 5-2012 |
Graham Welcome to the group. I just wanted to clear up a misconception you may have about the hydraulic system. You state "Also being an air over hydraulic brake system it handles 800psi easy, not that the Shadows systems require that much pressure." You will find the pressures in the Shadows systems are much higher than 800 psi. Here's an excerpt from one of Brian's previous posts: 3. Start the car. In a PERFECT system: - The gauge should quickly go right up to 1000 PSI. This is called the "flick up pressure" and directly relates to the amount of nitrogen charge in the lower half of your accumulator. - After the initial flick up the gauge should start rising higher and higher until it reaches 2500 PSI and stops. This is called the "cut out pressure". - The gauge should then drop by about 100 to 150 PSI and then stay steady between 2350 and 2400 PSI. This is called the "fall back pressure." | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2096 Registered: 9-2004 |
In response to Moderators comment about the Dot 5 1/ unless I am mistaken the government Phantom is not used as a every day or long distance car with the fluid being heated. 2/ Did the cars log show the complete change to Dot5 with the correct change procedure. Maybe Bill can help you! | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3185 Registered: 4-2003 |
Patrick, Your point #1 is not correct - in recent years, the car has travelled from Canberra to Melbourne and return for official use which is a total distance in excess of 1300km [800 miles] plus the additional travelling to and from official functions after arrival. This is equivalent to a trip from Land's End to John o' Groats in the UK especially when you consider the only stops would be for refuelling the car and driver. I consider Point 2 largely irrelevant as the car service history would almost certainly be fully documented in the relevant ComCar records for this vehicle. https://www.finance.gov.au/about-the-department/working-at-finance/recruitment/comcar/about/ The Governor-General of Australia travels in a Rolls-Royce Phantom VI limousine for ceremonial occasions, such as the State Opening of Parliament. He/She more commonly uses a white ballistic and bullet-proof armoured BMW 7 series when on official business. The official cars of the Governor-General fly the Flag of the Governor-General of Australia and display St. Edward's Crown instead of number plates. A similar arrangement is used for the governors of the six states. When the Queen is in Australia, the Queen's Personal Australian Flag is flown on the car in which she is travelling. . | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3187 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, I suggest you will find your future custodianship will be greatly facilitated by the official RRMC technical documentation available for free downloading from the RR Technical Library Silver Shadow files: http://rrtechnical.info/sy/04_sy plus Bill Coburn's Tee One Topics: http://rrtechnical.info/TeeOne/teeone.htm and Robert Wort's Crewe'd Jottings: http://rrtechnical.info/CrewedJottings/CrewedJottings.htm When time permits, you might find the link below has interesting additional information: http://rrtechnical.info/  | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 5 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Geoff, When I mentioned the PSI I was referring to the M35A2C as its brake system is air over hydraulic. I see the computer has dropped a few words that I typed. That part should have read: 'Also it being an air over hydraulic brake system it handles 800psi easy, not that the Shadows systems require that much pressure.' Computers eh,... making life easy for everyone,... "yeah right!" Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 6 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Just noticed there is no edit function to your posts,... Ah well,... Slight change, now the date will be ANZAC day to go inspect the Silver Shadow as airfares are a lot cheaper as apposed to the fiscal rape for a ticket during Easter. Graham. Graham, If you need a post edited after the grace period expires - just message me through the forum with details of the editing required and I will fix it for you. Never a problem or imposition for me; just happy to help. If you need help in posting photos and don't have access to editing software, please email them and any relevant text to drh14434@yahoo.com.au and I will edit and post on your behalf until you have the capabilities to do it yourself. Regards David | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 115 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, You can edit using the first icon at the top right hand corner but it only lasts for about 30 minutes then not available. Have you not been sent any pictures of the car you can upload for us to comment......that will be another learning curve to understand how to resize images as most of us newbies on the site discover. Like I said previously even looking at under bonnet pictures it is easy to spot if things look right or been wired out/missing etc.... | |||
| Alan Dibley Prolific User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 184 Registered: 10-2009 |
I will not argue the pros and cons, or disagree with anything said on the subject here or elsewhere, and would not recommend it to readers or try to persuade them otherwise, but:- I have used DOT5 in SBH10630 for 15(???) years and have found no disadvantages. The system was cleaned by a vacuum-pump based system, repeated after a few miles of driving to get rid of the remnants of RR363 - the two fluids do not mix at all. The only problems have been wear and tear and historical shortcomings which came to light after the change (how can a HCV shaft get bent?) plus a few caused by the chief mechanics stupidity. There have been no squidgy seals or O-rings, because, I assume, at some time in the '60s/'70s the rubber material was changed. (This will raise a few eyebrows.) I re-use old DOT5 after straining it through newspaper. Alan D. | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 7 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Steve: Thanks for pointing out the edit feature, that might help with some more of the recent blunders in my last few posts re spelling or for some unknown reason a random word seems to just disappear when I hit the post button,... Sigh,... Anyway, as for pictures, I don't have any other than on the sales advert and I can't copy those because they are blocked from that on the site. I can post pictures otherwise and I can resize and have my own photo hosting site I use. Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 117 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, If you are running off a computer just hit ctrl/alt/print screen and copy to a PDF file and upload the file. Or if the car is still advertised send me a PM with the link....I promise I won't disclose it and won't be gazumping you from the UK  | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 8 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... For the SU carb service: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ih5h1J-AN4 And some more on brakes I have been watching,.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Y_7a4tUh_U Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 9 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Thanks Steve,.. PM sent. Graham. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 173 Registered: 11-2017 |
Ronnie is extremely qualified and regulary posts videos. His multi part series on height control and the latest on power steering rack rebuilds is very informative for beginners. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2099 Registered: 9-2004 |
David, were the long trips before or after the change back to RR363 from Dot 5. Still not sure what you mean with the Dot 5 in race vehicles. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 118 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, Beautiful looking car. Have PM'd you with a few concerns but generally looks well. Steve | |||
| Graham Phillips New User Username: playtime Post Number: 10 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Where do I read a PM? I don't see anything or have any notification? Graham. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2792 Registered: 6-2009 |
Graham, PMs should be delivered to you by e-mail. If you're not getting them that way, click on the Edit Profile link in the column to the left side on the forum. Then after you log in (and you have to as a security measure), click on the Preferences link and then check that you have not somehow checked the checkbox for "Do not send me "Private Message" e-mails from other board users." It should be unchecked by default. Brian | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3188 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, PM's are sent to your email address which you would have included in your forum membership application. I have sent you a test message - if you don't receive it; please check your email service settings. Regards David P.S. My copy of the test message came through successfully. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2101 Registered: 9-2004 |
Alan, that's good to hear with the no real failures with the Dot 5. Also I take it that the insurers passed the Mod ok with no stipulations. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 11 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Ah,.. the PM is really an e-mail system rather than an on site system. Got the PM, thanks. I think I have figured out how to get the pictures,.. I'll enlarge them on the site and do a screen shot, then I'll crop out the unwanted surrounds of the picture and post that here. I'll have a shot at it when I get home from work tonight. Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3189 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, Too complicated - just crop them if necessary to remove unwanted content and resize to maximum width and height of 640 pixels [6 inch] x 480 pixels [4inch] for landscape orientation and 480 pixels x 640 pixels [4inch x 6inch]for portrait orientation. It helps reproduction quality if you can take photos at 300 dpi or higher resolution as these are more suitable for enlarging to see fine detail when needed. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 120 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham let me know too if my first PM got through as it should I think still download from your server to your email even if you had not at the time ticked the settings in your profile to receive them. Steve | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 12 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Steve, yes I got both your PMs/ e-mails I have seen the ones advertised in my state Victoria and they are not as good condition wise that I can see, most seats I see are creased (badly) and interior well, not up to my standards shall we say. Oh and that missing tool from what I have seen in another tool kit was the screwdriver tip, flathead on one end and Phillips head on the other, it fits into the hand tool you see below it. Looks like that piece IS missing but all the rest are there. When you talk about the everflex going down the pillars, are you talking the B-pillar? I agree about the under bonnet liner, everyone I have seen is almost torn to shreds,... Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 123 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, The short oblong vacant spot in the tool box I think is for the small type lamp/bulb that fits in the boot lid type lamp fitting. The longer slot is definitely for a small allen key. BTW also forgot to say the car has a non standard aerial....all minor points It is not too costly to re connolise the leather if it is not too bad and Patrick Lockyer has done a good article on this. Like I said it looks a nice car and if you have looked at others then you should start to get to know cosmetic areas of failure on body rust areas, wood and interior trim. The everflex usually goes all the way down the 'A' post front as the 'B' pillar is a stainless piece of trim. It is a huge piece of vinyl that gets wasted to do this why I think it is an aftermarket fit. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 124 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, They have not come through as actual pictures but links. Regards | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 14 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... So how do I get them to show as picture on this site? Its not working here the same as every other site I am on,.. Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 125 Registered: 11-2018 |
Not sure Graham you will need David G to advise what you are not doing correct. The images open fine and good quality picture though if you click on the link....only problem is it wipes your forum connection and have to use the back key....the picture showing the relays and rouge disconnected lucar connection appears missing I am sure it is something simple and seems things work different on computers and tablets/phones Steve | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 126 Registered: 11-2018 |
Still not worked.....I suggest you use the suggestion site post area to do some testing then David G just deletes any failures. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 17 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,...      Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 18 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,....      Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 19 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,....        Finally worked it out! Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 127 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, First one had pictures but not the one after but now they all appeared so may be a timing issue. Some of the under bonnet ones appear to be cropped as again the relay one can't be seen | |||
| Jeff Young Grand Master Username: jeyjey Post Number: 398 Registered: 10-2010 |
Lovely colour and appears to be a very tidy example. I've never seen the "full" lambswool treatment like that. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2103 Registered: 9-2004 |
Grayham, nice car but still looking from the last pix first.! One thing I have just spotted is the r/h side of the top of the radiator. This could be costly if it is failing. This can be the start of the rad top solder giving out not a big repair but costly if air gets into the system.  BTW have you any pixs of the under side of the car. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 20 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Steve, I have been trying different ways to post the images, I looked through the 'formatting' in the documentation to the left. I finally found out how to get the pictures up. I tested one then deleted it,... I then went and posted what you see, I haven't posted ALL of what I have just most of them. That one you mention that hasn't shown is because I haven't posted that particular one. Patrick, Yes I did notice the coolant staining and will be looking closer at it when I inspect it. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the underside but I do intend to on the 'test drive' see about stopping somewhere that has a hoist to have a good look under her skirts as it were. Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 128 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, Glad you have sorted the pictures out it took me a while to understand. Post the one showing the relays so someone more familiar with the Shadow 11 might offer a suggestion on why the wire may have been disconnected. BTW don't forget to take some furry dice to hang over your rear view mirror for the trip home  As Jeff says that is some nice sheepskin interior trim job, but you do need to check the leather quality at least on the drivers seat should give a good indication if it is a big job to remove the covers. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2104 Registered: 9-2004 |
Graham, have you looked at the battery and locating base also have you got the battery plastic cover, this is where the tool kit is located when not used! | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 21 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Steve, is this the one?  Think I will add a 'Disco ball' for the back as well! Patrick, I haven't seen the car in person yet, I am going up to inspect it ANZAC day, that will be my first look at it in person other than the pictures I have of it. I do have a copy of its service history sent to me and there has been nothing major happen to it at least nothing recorded,.... Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 129 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham that is the one.... it shows a disconnected lucar wire at the relay. As I said in my PM it looks like the original Lucas relays have been replaced which is not a problem but rouge disconnections like that worry me. As I said someone more familiar with Shadow 11 may give advice especially from the wire colours. | |||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Grand Master Username: soviet Post Number: 1325 Registered: 2-2013 |
Graham, supercool looking Shadow II. You will feel like King Billy driving it. Remember to have a large Havana cigar between teeth together with torn T-shirt and faded jeans for the 70s rock star persona. Alternative apparel is tweet hat with bushy eyebrows and indestructible umbrella to swish away at the unwashed. Remember to park it and watch it because sadly these cars are magnets for the swine vandals who seeth with unjustified jealously and could afford the honor of RR/B custodianship themselves but who are too silly to know that. The colour is rare I think but super swank. The sitting position in the drivers seat of the Silver Shadow is in my opinion second to none as it feels perfect. This car will give you many years of joy and splendor and the opportunities for lazy Sunday tinkering are endless. Downside may be an almost certain soon to arrive request/demand from wife girlfriend mistress etc for sable coat and your days of convincing anybody apart from another custodian that you are broke are over - permanently. Enjoy. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 22 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Vladimir, I almost spilled my tea laughing at your post,... You may have awakened a monster because I will likely take your fashion tips as a challenge! Graham. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2795 Registered: 6-2009 |
Just as an aside, these cars did have options, and there are the occasional few that didn't have one that the wiring in the wiring harness is still present for. I know that either SRH33576 or LRK37110 has at least one "unconnected connector" and, at this point, I'm pretty darned sure they always "went nowhere." I'll take a look today at each as I seem to recall both having at least one of these. Brian | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 131 Registered: 11-2018 |
Brian I agree in principal you are right but I don't believe ANY car manufacturer least RR/B would just leave a wire like that floating free under the bonnet. Of course it may have at one time been tied and taped back into the harness which would be the norm and then subsequently someone later has left exposed. As I am not over familiar with the Shadow 11 electrics hence I raise the concern as the area where the relays are is around where warning light relays are situated on the Shadow 1. At the very least I would put a multimeter on the connector, set at voltage, and see if it was a live wire. Being brown and given the diameter it is either a live feed into something or a live feed out to something that may as you say not be a component feature fitted. I can see the aerial on the car is a later non standard and could be wired direct into a radio to raise and lower as modern ones are. Alternatively as you say a non fitted feature like the headlamp wipers but I don't know when they were introduced as an option. Could even be a common harness used for LH/RH drive and a wire that went to the windscreen wiper motor so I agree lots of possibilities that it may be a redundant connector. So it could simply be something to do with that but any car looked after sensibly by any garage I just can't believe would leave that wire exposed. The smaller diameter wire looks like it is not joined into the lucar connector but just twisting around the loose lucar brown wire but it is hard to tell on the picture. The correct Lucas relays come in many internal variations on connections being just simple open/close to dual trip, flip over etc etc yet all have the same casing and it could well be the Lucas relay had a spare terminal on it that did not get used so that is where the orphan wire was placed. The later modern relay that has been fitted may not have had this spare connector hence the wire has been left loose. Again though I would say any decent electrician doing the relay change over should have taped back and secured that wire a little better IMHO. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 181 Registered: 11-2017 |
Many Euro delivery cars had headlamp washer systems triggered with the wiper motor. In my case,1980SWII the car was delivered in July of 1981 to Beverly Hills and had the headlamp wiper holes leaded up below the headlamps and has the wiring loom for that option. This may be a case where the washer loom was the only one available at the end of the run to install. There are other loose ends as well. The LWB models had a division glass option and rather a another harness, the LWB with the glass wiring was used in many cases. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 182 Registered: 11-2017 |
You may find this PDF useful:
This is for 74-5 Shadows but alot is the same. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 360 Registered: 5-2016 |
Great looking car, I believe the colour is the same as mine - Nutmeg or some call it Nutmeg Brown -. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2105 Registered: 9-2004 |
Well spotted Steve, I believe the relay has been been replaced. Looking at my car SS2 the relay looks to be for the cold start or starter relay. Will have a good look in the daylight to morrow with my engineering hat on unless someone can confirm. Have taken a pix but not that clear with the LPG. Looking at the pix of the car you may purchase it looks like it is fitted with one of those petrol things that change the molecular structure of the fuel, maybe, but IMO it needs to be removed, it will be a heat soak in that position and may well cause the fuel to vaporise causing difficult starting when hot.  | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2796 Registered: 6-2009 |
A few photos, the first two showing a relay with a "terminal condom" that's clearly factory along with a slide connector taped to another wire, on LRK37110:   These three connectors have never been connected on SRH33576 (which is an RHD-to-LHD conversion done long before my ownership):  Now the relay cluster from LRK37110 showing the starter and choke-on-start relays along with the triple relay cluster for the wipers:  and the starter and choke-on-start relays on SRH33576:   Brian | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 23 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Larry, you are correct. It is Nutmeg. Patrick, I assume that fuel device you mentioned is that brass looking tubular piece in the line right side of the picture near the suspension top? I take it that's NOT a standard item for a Rolls? Maybe someone fitted an aftermarket gadget in an attempt to save fuel? Graham. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2107 Registered: 9-2004 |
Larry, yeh that the thingy. Brian LHD and unless I am mistaken the electrics are showing what was once used for the emission control system ie EGR etc.. BTW did not know that cable ties were used by RR! | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 133 Registered: 11-2018 |
Brian my concern is that wire is a BROWN wire which denotes a live feed in/out. Your pictures show well the point of 'orphan' wires but non look brown hence my real concern is that loose wire may be live. The Shadow 11 does not appear to have the same design choke solenoid relay on the choke coil as on Shadow I and other under bonnet pictures I have seen of the Shadow 11 appear to have more relays in this vicinity..... so something here has been modified from standard. As I said my main concern would be this wire has a live feed and just needs checking out. Patrick I bet that tube in the fuel line has been stuffed with lead wheel balancing weights  | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2108 Registered: 9-2004 |
Yes Steve they do rattle, have some old removed units in the workshop, will saw one in half, may be of use for fishing! | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2109 Registered: 9-2004 |
To the extreme...………..  | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 136 Registered: 11-2018 |
Patrick in all my time I have never seen one that bad I think you need to add it though to the other post | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2110 Registered: 9-2004 |
What the one about Dot 5 in race cars  | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 24 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Patrick, whats that picture of? Looks like the bottom of a section of carpet, is that in the boot? Context? Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 137 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham, Patrick probably had too much 'scrumpy' last night I think and put this on the wrong post  . I have told him but he now wants to add it to the DOT5 fluid post............ Take head though Graham the picture shows what can happen to the metal roof under an Everflex vinyl top or the floor pan under a carpet if a front screen leaks. Patrick....your post I think belongs on the one where the car was bought unseen and has some bubbling under the vinyl........ | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 25 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Just got e-mail from owner, he has today had the oil/filter changed and radiator flushed, sent me copy of invoice. I had inquired with him about finding a place to put the Rolls up on a hoist, seems where he just had the work done is the closest so using the e-mail from the invoice I just sent off an inquiry to use their hoist. Also in the owners e-mail he mentioned that the Rolls has a stainless steel exhaust. Graham. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2798 Registered: 6-2009 |
The picture Mr. Lockyer posted is almost certainly from under the front, or possibly rear, floor pan carpeting. The lack of the padding beneath the carpet, though, makes it difficult to isolate the exact location. The SY cars are notorious for developing leaks around seals as they age, and given the thick layer of the padding with the black rubber on top of it that's beneath most of the carpeting it holds in whatever water gets beneath it "semi-perpetually." (I don't know why I can never remember what they call that padding, but I just don't seem to retain it). There was a local Shadow that used to appear at a shop not far from me and at one point when I looked in there was what amounted to a small swimming pool in both rear foot well areas. I dread to think about what may have lurked beneath. If you get a leak into the boot (trunk) the same sort of thing can happen. In both of my cars that padding has been removed from the trunk, one by a previous owner and the other by me. In LRK37110 there had been a battery leak at one point that damaged it and was still holding dry acid, so there was no reason at all to keep it in there. Brian | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2799 Registered: 6-2009 |
Graham, Stainless exhausts will change the exhaust note somewhat, but are definitely a good idea in my opinion. That being said, stainless is far from stainless when subjected to the temperatures of an exhaust system (or at least the stainless I've seen used has not been). It is much slower to "go bad" but it can and will rust. You can see illustrations of this principle speeded up significantly in stainless steel grill burners (which age much more rapidly than cast iron, in my observation and experience). Brian | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 185 Registered: 11-2017 |
Guessing the rust location...Judging by the thin covering it appears to be the Everflex roof. Exhaust... My car has a total factory stainless and it a bit louder than my earlier Shadows. I need a source for UR22182 silencers. 1.75 in & out is not easy to find in stainless. Looks like custom time. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2800 Registered: 6-2009 |
Robert, You're almost certainly correct about that picture being "beneath the Everflex." I was having difficulty deciding what I was seeing torn up, but now that you say this it almost certainly has to be a piece of Everflex peeled back. Brian | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 33 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Just out of curiosity,.... Dose anyone in Melbourne do a service-maintenance workshop for the Rolls? Any members here hold them? Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3195 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, Robert Wort from the RROC[Aust] Victorian Branch used to manage a Club Self-Help Group [see the "Crewe'd Jottings" file in the Technical Library] which particularly specialised in the Shadows/Spirits and Derivatives: http://rrtechnical.info/CrewedJottings/CrewedJottings.htm Bill Coburn's "Tee One Topics" are a comprehensive guide to DIY servicing of post-WW2 RR/B vehicles: http://rrtechnical.info/TeeOne/teeone.htm My advice is take a week's annual leave and read everything on these links . . | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 34 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Thanks David. My 5 weeks annual leave isn't until mid Oct-Dec. Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3196 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, As you have 5 free weeks coming, I have added some more useful information for you: I overlooked including an important link for the Shadow II Workshop Manual [TSD 4200] and I have added some other useful references - note all the downloads are free however a fast internet connection is a bonus: http://rrtechnical.info/SY/TSD4200/tsd4200.htm http://rrtechnical.info/autotransmissions/thm400/ssii/shadow2.htm http://rrtechnical.info/SY/spare/start.pdf http://rrtechnical.info/sz/tsd6167/Other/qrg.pdf http://www.rrsilvershadow.com/EIndex.htm http://rrtechnical.info/windowlifts/windowlifts http://rrtechnical.info/sy/bulletins/servicebull.htm | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 35 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... David, your a legend! The first drink is on me. Graham. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2810 Registered: 6-2009 |
It's also interesting to see how much material Bentley Motors Heritage has now put up in their online technical library for the "Heritage Motorcars": https://heritage.bentleymotors.com/en/technical-library/ Brian | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 175 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham......... What more of a service could ever be better than this forum information  You have people worldwide 24/7......you said in your opening post you would keep it 'short' and just look at the volume of response  | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 36 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Well after a day I am now at issue 25 of Crewe'd Jottings. Looks like fun,.... Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 37 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Ok,... Make that all 30. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 41 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,...... Ok,... Another dumb question from the new guy,... If I get this Silver Shadow I am going to look at later this month, I was thinking, Can I still get the spare woodwork from Rolls Royce? I remember in the old documentary's they kept a second set of woodwork for your car in case it was in an accident etc, I wonder how long they would keep them for? Could I get it? Graham. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 186 Registered: 11-2018 |
Graham now that is some myth and no doubt a great marketing ploy for the rich buyers back then. When the burr walnut veneer is produced it is just from the root ball base of the tree. The root ball is then turned and shaved like a pencil in a pencil sharpener. This produces layers and layers of thin veneer where the patterns are almost identical again a bit like how animated cartoons are created very small variations in each sheet as you go along each layer. This is what allows the joining of veneer to create a 'mirrored' what appears identical reverse it is just done from the immediate sequential layer of the veneer flipped over. Indeed it was another sales tactic saying your 'burr walnut veneering is unique'.....technically that is quite true as NO two layers are exactly the same. However for the human eye you could go through 10 or 20 layers of veneer before you could start to really recognise any difference. The veneer is purchased by pallet and each pallet will be from the same root ball and layered exactly as it was shaved off the root ball. A pallet would be standard size approx. 1 metre by 1 metre and the veneer would be stacked in layers about a metre high. At Jaguar we used to get first priority on pallet selection purchasing actually even before RR because we used a lot more in production. After RR the rest would be sold into the furniture trade. So to answer your question did RR keep a spare set of woods for your car the answer is definitely NO. What probably happened a set of woods was kept from that particular root ball production run and undoubtedly they would have kept some layers of veneer again from that particular pallet no doubt and this would be able to satisfy for a limited period and service demands in the field. Is anything still available now at RR? I doubt very much but a good veneer shop can often find a piece suitable for small area repairs. Indeed plenty of second hand parts available too that all can be made to look as new by a good veneer shop. Just had some of mine done at Xmas and a replacement lower facia as my 8 track packed up and I had to get rid of the holes to take an old cassette player instead. Tried to repair the old 8 track but the plastic wire coating inside just turned to crumbs when I opened the unit up. Hence I decided little point in trying to get an old second hand 8 track as no doubt likely to be as bad inside.    | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 209 Registered: 11-2017 |
Just to add a bit...the door caps are bookmatched from left side of the car to right and each cap is mirror imaged on it's own. Look at the centre of a door cap and you can see the symmetry. The thought of re-veneering a given part sound good but it will never match the rest of the woodwork. The best wood resto shops will actually fill, color and prcisely draw in burls at the repair and you will never see the repair. It is done all the time and is the acceptable method. I can show you door caps that were done by a DIY'r and sanded thru in areas completely loosing the veneer. I sent 2 of them to one of the finest RR wood guys here in the US and the results were remarkable and yes it was costly, but so is. perfection. | |||
| Steve Emmott Prolific User Username: steve_e Post Number: 187 Registered: 11-2018 |
Robert I think they did a good fit and colour match on totally re-veneering my lower centre console. My original one (which was faded anyway) is on the right of the pictures above and yes as you can see even that was made as a mirrored veneer part like the door cappings. I decided to keep the original lower facia panel though just in case a good 8 track ever turned up. I was not really bothered when I had the new piece as pictured below re-veneeered whether it was mirrored or not as that would have required 2 matching pieces of veneer, but asked they at least selected a piece of veneer that looked reasonably symmetrical in the pattern. Again I think they did well. Total cost which included the 4 door cappings (which are still original and would have required eight layers of sequential veneer to produce)was just over 300 GBP which included shipping back to me  | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Prolific User Username: wraithman Post Number: 210 Registered: 11-2017 |
Came out well Steve! | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 44 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Well we are now in the final countdown. Only 3 days to go until I go see this Silver Shadow in person. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 46 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well here we are,... 1 day to go,... One more sleep! ;) Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 429 Registered: 5-2016 |
I know that feeling Graham. | |||
| Richard Greene Prolific User Username: benzjag Post Number: 130 Registered: 12-2012 |
I also know how you are feeling, Graham! I bought a 79 Shadow sight unseen from California in January. It was shipped enclosed to North Carolina (about 3000 miles). I couldn't sleep the day before it was to be delivered! Long story short, I was not disappointed! Please take a lot pics! Richard  | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 47 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Taking pictures won't be the issue. Its will I be banned for posting too many!??? ;) Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3238 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, Not on your Nellie - the more photos the better so we can admire your pride and joy. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 48 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Its 3:45am,.... Leaving for the airport at 4am,.... Need coffee! Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3240 Registered: 4-2003 |
Safe trip and a rewarding trip home. Don't forget the photos from the vehicle pick-up for us................ . | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 49 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well here I am at a motel in Glen Innes. Well after getting up at 3:45am for a 4am departure, we left for the airport, made our 6am flight for a 8am arrival in GLD. After a stop for coffee we made our 10am meeting with the owner and then spent the whole morning going over the Silver Shadow. After detailed inspection and doing the brake/accumulator test, after the test drive I did the test, it took 63 pumps to get the brake 1 system warning light to come on, after 100 pumps I gave up on the second light. I then ran the engine for a couple of minutes, and yes I know I was supposed to do it for a minimum of 5 mins but the second test I did it took 35 pumps to get the 1st light to come on and still no second light at 100 pumps. I was thinking the pressure switch might be a bit suspect but after a bit of a think I turned the power off and restarted the engine, ALL lights came on so I know its not the globe, I also know the brakes work from the test drive. So after the engine ran for a few seconds I shut it down and both brake lights 1 & 2 came on! So with the deal done we finally left at 2:45 with just under half a tank of fuel so we thought. The needle was between the half and the low oil mark so we stopped and filled the tank at Ballina and I brimmed the tank with 64.29ltrs. We then drove through to Glen Innes over the Gibralter National Park. With the steep windy roads I didn't put my foot down I just kept it where it would need to be to make 100kph and the rolls crawled up the steep sections at around 50-60kph and through the hairpin turns. This is not the vehicle to do this sort of mountain terrain but the temp gauge climbed to about a centimetre from the top of the thick white line depicting normal range. We stopped for a toilet brake at a lookout and to let it cool down for 10 mins. We got to Glen Innes around 8:30pm with the fuel gauge showing just a hair above half a tank so we brimmed the tank and it only took 43.65ltrs for a total of 222mls or 355klms. We worked it out the Rolls is using around 15.24lts per 100klms. So not bad going considering we did the steep mountain work, I'm expecting good things on more normal flatter roads tomorrow. And yes, pictures to follow when I get home tomorrow. Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3241 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, Great news and the much-needed long distance trip will be a great benefit for your car. We all know they thrive on continuous use and hate being a "garage queen". Have done the Gwydir Highway trip many times when my parents were based in Inverell - a driver's road which brings out the best in a car especially in the years gone by when the police revenue collectors concentrated on the New England Highway instead of the then lightly-trafficed Gwydir Highway. I was suprised with the low speeds coming up the range - the Spirit should have been able to maintain better speeds up the hill between the hairpins. The straights once you reach the tablelands always made up for the frustration on the hill climb especially if you were caught behind a car and caravan. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 50 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... David: With those steep hills I didn't compensate with the right foot for the extra drag caused by the hills, I just kept my foot where it was and let the engine and gearbox do its thing. I do have to say I was really impressed with how it held top gear and didn't seem to want to down shift. I in fact shifted to 'I' until we made the top and the road levelled out. I'll post the fuel mileage figures later as I am now in a motel in Forbes. We just had so much fun in the old dowager that we drove for 11hrs today. Have now made 4 fuel stops and until this last one we would fill up when the gauge showed half a tank, we worked out the consumption as we go and the best so far was down to 14ltrs per 100klms. For the first 90mls out of Glen Innes we had the air conditioner on low as the temp outside was around 35deg and that's the only time we used the A/C. But as I said I'll post the figures later with the pictures and some vid. Also we have NO rego plates on the car and we have passed 4 cops so far, one we drove past in town just as he was waiting for us to pass so he could leave on his patrol, he looked right at us and pulled out and drove right behind us for about 500mtr and then just turned off down a side street. We both were just waiting for the 'angry lights' to go on and pull us over to explain why we had no plates on,... But so far none have looked twice at us. Anyway, more later when I get actually home. So far from the point of origin we have done ODO: 108,202mls - 108,883mls or 1,089.6klms. Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3242 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, Shifting to "I" is the most likely reason for the high fuel consumption, the Shadow T400 in DRH14434 preferred to stay in 3rd gear and let the engine low-down torque do the work rather than using higher engine speeds and thus higher fuel consumption. I am very surprised the NSW cop didn't pull you over for not having plates especially during the traditional Easter/Anzac Day traffic "biltzes". They now use number plate recognition devices to identify unregistered cars, owners with licence suspensions and/or arrest warrants. I would be very interested to know how you have been able to drive a car without registration and/or CTP insurance through NSW unimpeded unless there is some form of "permit to move" that applies to interstate vehicles being transferred through NSW. Our State Government is very aggressive with regard to revenue raising from car owners and drivers. P.S. Just remembered DRH14434 had the advantage of being fitted with the UK high compression [9:1] pre-emission control engine which had a performance advantage over the lower compression ratio [8.2] Australian-delivered pre-emission control vehicles. This probably why I remember the strong highway performance of this vehicle. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 51 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Ok, made it home. 1,075miles from door to door. Started at 108,202 and finished at 109,277 on the odometer. Ran like a dream. Just as we are going through Shepparton there is a very slight knock/ticking noise, almost like lifter noise but it gets louder then stops. A few minutes later it dose it again,.... It was doing this intermittently and I am thinking hydraulic pump maybe? I think this long trip has cleaned the engine out. Graham. | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1034 Registered: 11-2015 |
Graham, How long was the longest leg of the trip? | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 52 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... The longest leg was the last 676klms. That was because it was all (mostly) open flat country and mostly at 100-110kph. The only stops were for fuel and coffee. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 53 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Data on the trip. ​Left Boganger heading for Melbourne(Home) 2.40pm Thursday 25th April. Monarch Camila. Subjects Juliet and Graham. Mileage upon departure: 108202 miles. First Fuel stop : Ballina ​Mileage: 108245 Fuel: Unleaded 98. Brand: Safeway Litres: 64.29 Cost: $109.23 Price per liter:169.9 Second Fuel Stop: Glen Innes ​Mileage: 108424 Fuel: Unleaded 98 Brand: Caltex Litres: 43.65 Cost: $70.67 Price per litre: 161.9 Third fuel stop: Narrabri ​Mileage: 108616 Fuel: unleaded 98 Brand: BP Cost: $69.00 Litres: 43.15 Price per litre: 159.9 Fourth fuel stop: Parkes Mileage:108860 Fuel: unleaded 98 Brand: Shell Litres: 61.39 Cost: $100.00 Price per litre: 162.9 Fifth fuel stop: Tocumwal Mileage: 109132 Fuel: unleaded 98 Brand: Shell Litres: 73.46 Cost: $127.01 Price per litre: 172.9 Averages: Economy: KM/L : 4.06 (unsure of accuracy as need conversion to km. Data from vehicle is in miles) L/100kms: 24.76 (miles) 24.76/1.62 = 15.28 km per 100km. $/100km: $40.77 (unsure of accuracy. may need conversion. measurements were in miles) Fill Averages: Distance: 222 miles (222 times 1.62 = 359.64 kms) Litres: 57.19 Cost: $95.18 Totals: Distance in refills: 887 miles (887 times 1.62 = 1436.94 kms) Footnote: This does not include distance traveled from last fill to Home. Final ODO reading was 109277 which was actually 1075 miles. Conversion: 1075 miles times 1.62 = 1741.5 kms Refills: 5 Litres: 285.9 Cost: $475.91 Posted for those into maths,.... ;) Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 54 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Arrived to inspect  Some of the fun on the drive home,....  Great long stretches cruising at 100-110kph.  Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 56 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pcaflkr7sNA&t=246s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux5kS_sRn1U&t=16s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAOqYhC5mCc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTCvERv-wTs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv6xCLfVXjQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1vZgEtMLb4 Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3245 Registered: 4-2003 |
Grahame, Would be very interested to know how you managed to drive an unregistered vehicle through NSW without being molested by Constable Plod. The only feasible way that I can think of would be to carry "trade plates" - I would be very interested to know if interstate trade plates are valid in NSW as my next vehicle purchase is almost certain to be unregistered as I will be looking for a restoration project which may come from interstate. . | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 57 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... David: All you need is a permit from the state (vic roads or the state of origin) to drive an unregistered vehicle, you get them for the purpose of transporting it from the point of purchase to your home and/or to take it to get a roadworthy or any repairs needed for the roadworthy. I had one issued for 3 days from QLD and its valid to drive interstate. I have one I got from Vic-roads valid for 14 days starting tomorrow, I have the rolls booked in for its roady this wendsday. Its funny but we got passed by the cops about a dozen times on the drive back. In one town a cop was waiting for us to pass so he could pull out from the cop shop driveway to go on his patrol, he pulled out behind us and followed us for about a good 500mtrs then just turned down a side street, we were just waiting for the angry lights to go on,.. but nothing! That's the closest we came. Made it home with no issues, legal or otherwise. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 58 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Additional: This morning I had my first cup of tea and took the 'Mr Sheen' with me to wipe down the woodwork, dashboard and leather trim etc,.... I also cleaned the radiator grill and the little lady,.. After the 1,075mile trip I checked the engine oil again,... the level is down 1/4 Everything else is just fine. Graham. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 357 Registered: 11-2017 |
Mr Sheen is the LAST thing you want on/in your leather. It contains silicones , solvents and wax. Ok on floors but never on leather, it clogs the pores and any future attempt to properly feed or condition the leather will be a waste of time. Leather should simply be washed, softly brushed and treated with a Leather specific conditioner. Besides who wants shiny leather to look like vinyl. | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1037 Registered: 11-2015 |
Graham, Thanks for the videos. A real "slice of life" driving down there. I like the steer just bumbling across the road and everyone just waiting and driving around them. The car also looks fantastic. I also love the 1000k miles w/o a reg. I did 1100 with a failed safety inspection, they put a big red "R" on your windshield and had a morris mini minor on the bed. Hard to stay inconspicuous. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 59 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... More pics to post when I get home from work tonight,... Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 60 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Ok, really dumb question,.... apart from a Rolls dealership where do I source the brake fluid from? I want to have some on hand now I actually have one. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 61 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Ok, another dumb question,... Whats your thoughts on using wool wash to clean leather? Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3249 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, My personal preferences: 1. RR363 brake fluid is no longer supplied by Castrol - there is a self-made 90% DOT4 10% pure Castor Oil mix often referred to as YAK 363 which is being used successfully by our Forum members. 2. I have always use equestrian saddle soap to clean heavily soiled leather and as Connolly hide food is reported to be available again, using this will restore the classic R-R leather fragrance. A tip from our contributors is to cover a piece of scrap leather with the Connolly Hide Food and put it under one of the seats out of the way of the seat adjustment mechanism to cover any adverse odours encountered while the car is in use. . | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 62 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Ok, this morning on my way into work I dropped in and had the Shadow get her Roady. They pulled me up on the two tie rod ends I know about from my inspection before I bought it and found a control arm bush that is torn, I'll get that and its opposite side replaced together. Also the diff pinion seal is leaking, not a failure point but with the other leaked oil on the underside I need to have it steam/pressure cleaned so when he takes the pics its all reasonably clean. The brake shoes are low and though not yet un roadworthy are getting near their wear limits. A small job to do later So, I guess everyone just go's to their suspension place like PEDDERS to get their bushes and tie rod ends done with these cars? Graham. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 369 Registered: 11-2017 |
You are asking for trouble if you're pulling or had pulled the car from the front by the tie rod ends. Reading the workshop manual before doing work yourself or bringing to a shop is highly advised. There are many shops that say they can do the work and have no idea how to. They like the idea of keeping your car outside for publicity to elevate their level of expertise. Be very careful and ask questions. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 63 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Is there anywhere recommended in Melbourne to get this work done? I am thinking of just getting the guys who are doing the roady to do the job. I want to see about getting this done inside a week. Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 606 Registered: 5-2007 |
Graham, contact Bob or Neil Chapman at R.A. Chapman Automotive in Bayswater. Usually has a packed schedule but he might be able to help. Prices are good and they're RR&B specialists. http://www.rachapmanautomotive.com.au/ | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 64 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Thanks Jeff, I'll get onto annoying him tonight. Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 607 Registered: 5-2007 |
Graham, he rarely answers emails - you have to ring during business hours. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 65 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... I can't ring during business hours as I am at work. Also I don't have a mobile! Yeah I know, I live in the dark ages,.... Anyone got the address? Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 66 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Never mind, I found the address. Its not far from where I go on a duty I do while at work. What a small world! Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 608 Registered: 5-2007 |
Graham, I'm glad I'm not the only one without a mobile! I used to have a dumb phone solely for use on Melbourne or Sydney visits because public phones were scarce. I think over 10 years I'd made a couple of dozen calls before I lost it. I guess I'll need to buy another $100 Telstra special soon because I'm taking my car to Chapman's for a major overhaul. Drop in and talk to them if you can - they really are good down to earth honest mechanics; a rare breed in the auto repair industry. And they know our cars backwards! | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 67 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... I think its funny how most people can't get their heads around not having a mobile, I mean, what do they think we did before mobile phones? I'm taking a sickie today and going to drop in this morning to Chapmans, they can have a quick look at what I need done and with luck can get it sorted soon. I'll take the camera. But right now,... cup O tea! ;) Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 68 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well I took a sickie today from work and drove over to Bayswater only to find RA Chapman is no more. Seems he retired the other month. I'm told he's continuing the spares though. I did find another place to go that is half way back from where I came. UK Motors opposite Essondon Airport, I got her booked in on the 27th. I expect to have her on club plates the following Monday. Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 609 Registered: 5-2007 |
Bob has retired? That's the most shattering news I've had in ages. Great for him of course but a real loss to the shrinking pool of RR repairers. I'm surprised the club didn't make an announcement - the man's an institution in Victoria. I'll contact him on Monday to see if he still has the spares I need - I was about to get a major engine-out overhaul and suspension upgrade done by him. Now I'll have to shop around to see who's the most reasonably priced (and competent) of the competitors. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 69 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Jeff, I took mine here: http://www.ukmotors.com.au/index.php Speak to Tony. Since Bob is still doing the spares on the side (I'm assuming from home now) Maybe you can get the upgraded parts and have Tony fit them,.... Just a thought. The quote I got from Tony was surprisingly reasonable to do what I need done. I come from a whole family of engineers mostly aviation but some automotive so I know more than the average bear,.... Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 610 Registered: 5-2007 |
Yes - I was considering that. Tony looks like the go. How did you find out about the spares? Was there at notice at the old workshop? Bob is currently selling a rebuilt Shadow engine on eBay but hopefully he still has a stock of suspension and engine components stored somewhere. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 70 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Jeff, I spoke to the guy who now has the workshop and bought all the hoists etc from Bob. He told me Bob has retired but is still running the spare parts on the side,.... So at least we still have that. sigh,... Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 611 Registered: 5-2007 |
I'm looking forward (hopefully) to getting a peek at his collection of spares - it'll be an Alladin's cave of treasures! | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 71 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Find out if he has any new clocks,.....? The mechanism on mine for adjusting the time is broken,...  I could do with a new one. Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3264 Registered: 4-2003 |
Graham, When I had problems with the clock in DRH14434, I took it to a local instrument fitter/repairer who overhauled it and fixed the problem for a very reasonable price. Just did a quick search using "auto instrument repairs" and found a good number of businesses with two possibilities below which I think are reasonably close to you: http://www.howardinstruments.com.au/ https://www.sheppartonspeedo.com.au/ No doubt with your better knowledge of nearby centres, you would find other alternatives close to you using this search term. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 72 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone..... Ok,... Another dumb question,... How do you remove the ashtrays from the rear doors? Thanks David for that info I'll have a look into them. Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 612 Registered: 5-2007 |
You just pull them up - or push from underneath. The chrome tops come off. Be careful not to lose the spring in the lid. | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1057 Registered: 11-2015 |
Graham, I see Rolls Royce ownership is clearly getting you down. Truly a sad state. I think I would be that happy too if my car was as handsome as yours. I can feel the excitement in your posts. Best. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 73 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... thanks Jeff I'll give that a try but I did try with the rear drivers side and its stuck, I don't want to put any excessive force on it because I don't want to break anything.... I had to remove the lighter from its bin under the grate in that one... somehow the previous owner managed to get it in there and I wasn't able to remove the whole ashtray so I got a strip of paper and used it as a cradle by folding it in half and then slipping one side so you create a loop that I slid around the lighter then you almost close the lid so when you pull the paper it lifts the lighter around the grate and then you open the lid and there it is, sitting ONTOP of the grate! Anyway, I have just given the car a wash, How are the colour coded discs fixed to the stainless steel discs? I have one that seems to be lifting a little and another that rotates a little. Also I have just spent time washing one half of the engine bay and the first tentative clean is already showing a big difference. I'll take pics later to show the difference. Ross, I was expecting you to say "I see Rolls Royce ownership is clearly getting you down. Truly a sad state. I'll take that burden off your hands for a small token fee to free you of your pain".  Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 613 Registered: 5-2007 |
Not too sure how the coloured rings attach. You probably need to remove the hubcaps first. With the ashtray maybe someone glued it to stop it rattling? Does the top lift off? | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 74 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... So for my own entertainment,... I poked my head into the engine bay,.... Washed the left side of the intake. You can see the difference with the right side.  And both sides,..  Left side washed.  Al washed,...  Looking good.  And now I can read the data plate.  Its looks so much better when you clean off all the settled oil vapour from years past. After a few more rounds I should have it ready to eat off. Graham. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 382 Registered: 11-2017 |
The colored(painted) trim on the wheel covers are held on with 3 interference fasteners on the back and can be sourced from the usual suppliers. Whenever in doubt regarding assembly refer to the suppliers diagrams and most importantly the Bentley Heritage site for parts and the service manuals. Learn how to remove the wheel cover with denting the cover. Hint: locate the air valve, lets say it's at 12 o'clock...at 2 o'clock insert the proper tool and pry it off. Notice when the cover is off there are 3 raised bosses on the wheel and this is where you want to pry. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 75 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Thanks Robert, the guys who looked at it for me when doing the roady took the wheel covers off with a hooked tool made for removing them without damage. I might get me one of those tools, heck, I'll get me two, one to keep in the boot so there is always one with the car and the other for my workshop. Graham. | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2094 Registered: 5-2012 |
I always use a short length of 1/4" nylon rope. Hook it through two adjacent vents and give a sharp pull. Always works and I have never seen any damage using this method. I did not realize there was a special tool available - I will check it out. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2135 Registered: 9-2004 |
Hello Graham, the engine bay looks good! Spotted a couple points that may need attention. The radiator looks to be missing some cooling fins on the RH side, The fan blows outside air against the fins. This increases the amount of air that flows over the cooling fins of the radiator and allows for more heat to be removed from the coolant, more important in hot climates. Quite a ground frost here this morning in Somerset. The distributor cap looks to not have holding clip attached.  | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 77 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Patrick, yeah it dose look like the dizzy isn't clamped but its just the camera angle. I went out to the workshop and took some more pics,... you did have me worried there for a bit.   And the gap from what looks like the lifting colour coded inner disc.   Oh and I noticed the cracking lead caps on the Dizzy. Not sure about the radiator fins as it all looks ok to me, could it be shadow from the shroud around the fan? Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 80 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Just out of curiosity,.. what can I expect to pay for a new (if still available) or used battery box? The lid on mine has the retainers for the toolbox broken off and the back where the positive power cable comes through is cracked. I opened mine to remove the battery the other day and mine has some cracks in it. Yes I am that OCD- anal retentive, call it what you will when it comes to my motor pool. And as a final (for now) question. My seats don't have the tray table in them so would it be an easy swap out of the seat back for ones that have the tables? I assume they can just be swapped out? Graham. | |||
| Mike Thompson Grand Master Username: vroomrr Post Number: 436 Registered: 4-2019 |
If the SS II is the same as SS I then all you do is take out the two screws at he bottom of the back. Push the seat all the way back (tilt), pull out the headrest, lift up and out on the back and it is off. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 620 Registered: 5-2007 |
Graham, the battery box sold here is pricey but good quality. https://www.introcar.co.uk/assembly-cover-battery-box-p805 +GST+shipping+risk of customs inspection charge (rare) Don't buy a cheap fibreglass one on ebay - they don't fit! I've tried to repair broken ones without success. Minor chips are okay with 2-part plastic putty from Bunnings but not serious cracks. Seats. Most tabled backs are from early Shadows with no headrests and a slightly different shape. They don't fit - I've tried. The headrest style backs can have tables installed. A pro will charge big dollars. I've got a restored set and will instal them myself, after about a zillion other jobs are finished. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 82 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aP642P9v6r4 Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 442 Registered: 5-2016 |
Hi Graham, Lovely looking Silver Shadow 11 and it is obviously in good enthusiastic hands. I would be concerned about the hydraulic reservoir level for the No.2 system as it is very close to the minimum. You may have a leak somewhere but top up and monitor just in case (if there are no signs of external leaks you might have a leaking hydraulic pump which is releasing brake fluid into the engine oil so watch for a rise in engine oil level which would signify this). If the hydraulic fluid level falls too low there's a danger than air could be drawn into the system. It appears that your hydraulic brake fluid could do with a flush & bleed based on the yellowish colour but I've seen far worse cases, when new and clean it should be virtually transparent. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 417 Registered: 11-2017 |
Graham..Watched your video and from my perspective I hear a tapping and perhaps noise from the idler pulley. You may know there are 2 pushrod operated pumps on the intake manifold and they can wear and produce a signature sound. I could be wrong but make note. Also your ignition system is important for a smooth running engine and it appears you may have original wires and they should have been replaced a long time ago. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 86 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Larry and Robert,.. Yes I am aware of the low level and condition of the fluid, when the roady was being done and she was up on the hoist there is a junction on the drivers side of the chassis rear end before the rear wheel where the brake line splits, it was found a little wet, I am having that looked at when I take it in to be worked on on the 27th, also I was thinking since the brake pads are getting changed finding out about including a complete fluid change plus getting a bottle to have some on hand,... just in case. Yes I do know about the two hydraulic pumps run off the cam, one at the front and one at the back. Its loudest when first started from dead cold and it does come from the back. Once warmed up it does quieten down. When on a long run it does seem to build from silent to you can hear it then all of a sudden it just stops and silence again for 5-10mins then repeat a few times. Actually the engine oil level fell just a hair over a quarter when I cheaked it after the 1,700+ klm trip home, after I did the running around organising to get the work done I checked it again and it was down to just above half on the dipstick. I put just over one litre in to put it back to full and its stayed there so far, I'd say the long trip bringing her home has done her good. I have been reading the service records and I have not so far found any work done on the hydraulic pumps to date and it now has just over 109,000 miles on the odometer. Maybe it may be time for them to be pulled and rebuilt,... thoughts,...? Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 443 Registered: 5-2016 |
Hi Graham, Whether or not the pumps need a rebuild is a difficult question to answer. It's not unusual for them rattle a little on initial start up of a cold engine and then quieten down after a few minutes, that's a normal symptom of pressure building until the accumulator control valves have reached optimum pressure and then the pumps no longer have to work as hard. Also, after applying the brakes the pumps may rattle a little to rebuild pressure that was used while braking. If there is any air in the system the pumps will rattle more because the air will compress and fluid pressure will not build up as quickly. I suggest that if you bleed the system and notice afterwards that the pumps become quieter it may indicate that the pumps are working OK and that the rattle was air induced. I would be reluctant to pull the pumps until all other usual brake service was attended to first. If the hydraulic flexi hoses have not been replaced within the past 6 years I would do that first and flush and bleed the system. Open the reservoir lid and remove the baffles and see what state fluid is in, it would not be unusual to find sediment in the bottom of the reservoir which would indicate a breakdown in the inner casings of the flexi hoses and/or in the sphere diaphragms. A 3000 PSI hydraulic pressure test gauge with a UNF 3/8 x 24TPI hose fitting is the best tool you can acquire to test any of the components of the hydraulic system and the readings will give you a very good indication of how your pumps and accumulators are performing. Once you become familiar with the operation of the hydraulics a test gauge will be your best diagnostic friend. | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1083 Registered: 11-2015 |
Graham, Thanks for the video except you car looks really clean. I am lucky you live a long way away so there is no chance you might park next to mine. For some people bird droppings are the worst thing to land on their cars, for mine it is photons. Your engine did seem a little noisy there. I always find the audio from phones and cameras in engine compartments problematic. Have you had a listen with a bit of hose? That would probably isolate the pumps pretty quick. The only problem with listening in this manner is watching out for the moving bits. Do be careful. Good Luck | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1084 Registered: 11-2015 |
Graham, I looked like you had to raise the revs to put off the gen light. I never have to do that on my car. Hmmmm. | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1085 Registered: 11-2015 |
Graham, The air cleaner housing comes off without the need to remove the hood spring. I know that is true for the wire mesh filters at least because I have washed mine and re-oiled them a couple times and never had to touch that spring. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Grand Master Username: wraithman Post Number: 419 Registered: 11-2017 |
Hood springs do not come off...would spell disaster. When in doubt the workshop manuals will explain in detail how to fix 99.9% of the car. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3293 Registered: 4-2003 |
Ross, Perhaps the alternator light was not going off because the engine idle speed was too low? I remember a similar thing happening with DRH14434 in the early stages and I think the engine idle was less than 500rpm and probably closer to 450rpm. The problem disappeared when the idle speed in N or P was adjusted to 750rpm dropping to 700rpm when D or R was engaged. | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1087 Registered: 11-2015 |
David, Mine kicks right in, but I don't run less than 500 rpm. Maybe just a low idle. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 87 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... First off, yes I did blip the throttle to get the GEN light to go out. Yes it was due to low idle. That morning for some reason the choke didn't come on, I had removed the battery to clean out the battery box of some small broken bits just before, may also be why the oil pressure gauge was slow to respond, was fine after that when I took it out for a spin. Yes I am aware the fluid level was on the low mark, when the car was up on the hoist for its roady it was found a junction in the brake line at the back drivers side of the chassis before the rear wheel was wet, there may be a slow leak there, I'll have that looked at, hopefully it just needs nipping up (tightening). When I started the Rolls that morning it had been sitting for a whole week and I have found so far the first start of the day it will be a little noisy, I did assume the tapping noise might be the rear pump building pressure as it dose quieten down after a while. When driving at highway speeds the engine is silent and then out of nowhere you hear this tapping building in the background and then all of a sudden it go's silent again for about 5 mins, then its repeat a few times, I have put it down to the levelling system and brakes being repressurized. I doubt at this time any fluid would be leaking into the engine oil as I have had to top it off. After the trip home 1,700+klms the engine oil level had dropped just over 1/4 and after a little running around organising for the work to be done to get it its roady it was then down to just a shade above half, I have put just over a litre in to put it back to the full mark and it hasn't moved from there so far. I did twice have the choke stick and had to rev the engine to get it to idle normally but in that video was the first time it didn't kick in hence the low idle at the start. I have since thought about doing a complete flush of the system, that way I'll know how the system is. I will clean the pots on the carbs and cheak the mixture and idle after I get it registered. Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 444 Registered: 5-2016 |
Hi Graham, The reason your choke didn't activate may be simply down to your starting procedure. With the ignition on you need to press the accelerator pedal and this activates the choke mechanism before you start the engine. With the ignition on listen for the fuel pumps which tick until the carb float bowls are filled, wait for the pump ticking to stop and then press the accelerator to the floor which activates the choke, then release the pedal and start. It's a good idea to clean your carb dashpots and pistons and the throats of the carbs but not to fiddle with the mixture screw unless you have exhaust analysing equipment. The mixture screw on a HIF7 carb is set at the SU factory during bench testing and then a cap is placed over the screw to discourage people from fiddling with it afterwards. Cleaning and eccentrically balancing the carbs is good practice however as is cleaning and spraying some light oil on the choke cam mechanism but keep the cam face and fast idle adjustment screw oil free and dry. Each carb should be cleaned separately to avoid mixing up the dashpots and their pistons which are manufactured as individual sets. Top up the dashpot oil. I bought a set of dial test gauges for my HIF7s from Kelly Opfar at Britishtoolworks and find them good to use when eccentrically balancing the carbs. When I'm happy that my carbs are working in unison I set the engine idle speed using a tacho meter with the red lead attached to the coil negative terminal and the black lead attached to a good earth. The factory recommendation for my engine idle speed is 650 RPM but I find that it idles sweeter at 600 RPM, my car doesn't have emission control or catalytic converter. Before making any carb adjustments it's always advisable to make sure that the ignition spark and timing are spot on as otherwise you may end up chasing your tail and trying to offset one problem by creating another. Also check the cleanliness of your air filter and the 3 fuel filters. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 88 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Larry, duly noted. I do need to get myself a set of dial gauges for the job but for now its not an urgent issue but I do want to do it for my own satisfaction in knowing everything is 'right'. Graham. | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2102 Registered: 5-2012 |
Graham When you are ready, this is the go to place for carb dial gauges. I have two myself. https://www.britishtoolworks.com/product-page/su-hif7-carburetor-synchronizing-kit | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 89 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Thanks Geoff! Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 90 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Ok,.. Just ordered a set! Should be here by the time I have the roady done. Graham. | |||
| Kelly Opfar Prolific User Username: kelly_opfar Post Number: 235 Registered: 7-2004 |
Hello Graham, they'll be in the mail first thing in the morning. Cheers! Kelly http://BritishToolWorks.com | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 91 Registered: 3-2019 |
G'day everyone,... WOW! Thanks Kelly. Now that's service! Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 97 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well tomorrow morning is the day! I get the work done for the roady and I have taken the day off work to get it done. Woo Hoo! Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 448 Registered: 05-2016 |
Good luck with the roady. | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1108 Registered: 11-2015 |
Luck to you on that, though after driving a new to you car 1700km without tags successfully I kind of think you have luck. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 98 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well here I sit while my Shadow is up on the hoist with the hands of strangers all over her,.... I'm just getting the three jobs I need done to get the roady rubber stamped on Friday. I'll bring her back again in two to three weeks to get the rest of the work done I was wanting, that's all cosmetic like refinishing some door capping's and paint chips. I have my laptop as you can tell and my travel mug of coffee and a thermos of coffee in my bag. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 100 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Ok, all work done! Everything is fixed for the roady ready for Friday. 3 hrs total, I've got it booked in for the end of July to do some cosmetic work done so I'll get to play with it for a little while. Funny thing I noticed though is there is cold air coming inside down on the feet even though I have the heater on,.... Is there an air duct from outside under there, I haven't cheaked yet myself but with the snow falling around the hills where I am I have noticed the distinct temp extreme's. Oh, and yes I had the hydraulic fluid levels topped up. Graham. | |||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 625 Registered: 05-2007 |
Graham there's an aircon flap down there that opens into the front scuttle vent. If you remove the scuttle vent cover you can see it from the other side. Sometimes the actuator motors get stuck and/or the foam gasket perishes allowing airflow direct from the outside. The actuator motors can be repaired. Access is from the front driver's footwell. If you're lucky it just needs a little lubrication. This cold airflow onto my feet had me baffled until I had the lot repaired. This is one of the easier ones to get to. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 103 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Thanks Jeff. I'll have a look at it this weekend. Going to be colder tomorrow. Heater works great though. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 105 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... The Dial gauges I ordered showed up last night. I collected them this morning on the way into work. This weekend will be fun. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 106 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... The Dial gauges:  And for your pleasure:     Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 452 Registered: 05-2016 |
Nice photos Graham. Can you post a picture of your carb linkage at the front between both throttle levers. I'm interested to know if it's the same as mine as I've come across different set-ups. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 107 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... I'll take that pic later,... Just about to leave to get the roady done. Kettles boiled so gotta go. Back later this arvo. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 108 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well its now ALL done. Roady was rubber stamped. Signed her up at my car club. Took roady and car club paperwork to vic-roads. All registered now on Historic club plates. Almost had a drama with the roady, as the guy was driving her from the car park to get into his workshop a LOT of fluid drained from under the car,.. it left an oily slick trail,... Turns out it was the AC drain,.... The oily residue we put down to what was already on the ground but it dose leave me to ask one question. When you have the heater/AC on AUTO and the heater is set to full on dose the AC still run just not get piped into the inside? Its been my understanding that when on manual (set at LOW-HIGH) the AC dose NOT run if the temp is set to hot but dose if set at AUTO? Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 110 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Larry, here are those photo's,.... I can see about more if you need. The back:  And the front:   I think the last two came out a little dark. Let me know if you need any more. Graham. | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2108 Registered: 05-2012 |
  | |||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 555 Registered: 04-2019 |
I may have gotten carried away a bit.  | |||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 556 Registered: 04-2019 |
Captain it's aboard my spaceship, HELP !  | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 111 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Was just outside tinkering with the Rolls and came across some issues,... There was always oil leaking from somewhere but I may have found the source,... I think it may be the seal at the bottom of the Dizzy,...    But also while I was poking around I found these loose connections,.... Take a look at these plugs:  The bottom one is the worst, the seal has perished and fell out,....   I think I can replace the seal from a kit I have but will I need to replace those sensors? Looks like Cork gaskets to me,.... Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 112 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... While I was tinkering with the Rolls I had the hood open,... I took the opportunity to turn the fan ON while the setting was at full heat and the AC/ compressor engages even when the heater is ON,....... Is there any way to have the fan ON without the AC ON as well? Oh and another funny thing,.. When I switch the lights to FOG the headlights go out,... Should'nt they stay ON as well as the fog lights? I always thought so,....? Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 113 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well I just spent the last hour hand polishing the Rolls. Normally I'd put two to three coats on but its raining and even though she is in the workshop I started later than I had originally planed and I have to get my shite ready for work tomorrow. Also while I was out yesterday I got me a Dash-cam. This should be fun! Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 453 Registered: 05-2016 |
Thanks for the carb linkage photos Graham and for the enhanced psychedelic version by Mike. I think your setup is the same as mine (so carb balancing should be straight forward) but my car is 20 miles away in a lockup so I can't be absolutely certain. Your oil leak may be from the dizzy seal but I suspect that it's more likely hydraulic fluid from the base of the No.2 hydraulic pump housing which is dripping down along the rear of the engine. There are 2 large seals inside the hydraulic pump housing. One of your loose switches (the one with otter) written on the casing is - I think - the thermal switch that operates the electric fans in front of the radiator, if you trace the wiring you will be able to verify that. You can check if the electric fan works by shorting the ends of 2 wires where they plug into the switch using a paper clip of similar with the ignition on but whatever you use will become hot very quickly so don't burn your fingers. How to test the otter switch itself is something I can't answer but no doubt someone else will know, all I know is that they are expensive items. Most owners have never experienced their electric fans actually kicking in as their coolant temperature has never risen high enough. | |||
| Jim Walters Prolific User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 246 Registered: 01-2014 |
On the sensors, the seal just holds the guts into the housing and keeps dirt out. The seal between the water and housing is cork. If they still function they do not need replacing. The guts sit in air in the housing so as long as they are held in place and sealed with an O ring they are OK. AC pump is on because the air is dried by the condensor before it is heated. Fog lights are functioning correctly, other manufacturers may do it differently. SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | |||
| Mike Thompson Frequent User Username: vroomrr Post Number: 569 Registered: 04-2019 |
Fog lights, I was driving a Freightliner 18 wheeled truck up a narrow mountain highway in a blizzard and came up over a hill and there was nothing but whiteout. Could not see a thing. Just had time to turn on the fog lights (and because the regular headlights were on) they did no good. As soon as it cleared (in a few seconds no time to even slow down) there was a big snow plow heading right for me. Now in any battle between a 18 wheeled truck, you are going to loose (unless you have an older 18 wheeled truck with one of those thick chrome bumpers on there that I made my tow dolly out of). Luckily we both dove for our respective sides of the road and both continued driving. Not sure any lighting would have help, but the fog lights and headlights equaled only worse (and probably blinded the snow plow driver). (And stomping on the brakes in a 74,000 pound vehicle in the snow with more than a 1000 feet down on your passenger side and a snow plow heading at you is a bad idea.) | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 115 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Larry, Hmmm, interesting point about the oil,... I'll see if I can get a bore scope to see closer to the base of the no 2 pump. What a shame the AC compressor comes on ALL the time, it means you burn more fuel. When we got the 14ltrs per 100klm when we collected it was when we didn't have the fan on at all let alone the AC. It did make that much of a difference. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 116 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Just out of curiosity, what fuel is everyone running in their series II? And are you adding anything as a lead replacement? Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Grand Master Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 454 Registered: 05-2016 |
Graham, my air compressor was acting up so I bought a replacement one & a new receiver dryer & expansion valve but haven't gotten around to fitting them yet. In the meantime I've disconnected the wires connection on the old compressor which means that I have no air-con at the moment but the heater works fine and the ambient air works fine also. Air-con is more of a luxury than a necessity where I live and is rarely used. I don't think that disconnecting it will do any harm to the rest of the system but I'm not sure about that. | |||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1123 Registered: 11-2015 |
Graham, Unleaded should be fine for your engine as it has steel valve seat inserts. You shouldn't forget to use a zinc additive for your engine oil as you have a flat tappet cam. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 117 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Larry, yeah I thought about doing just that disconnecting the compressor to save fuel, what with winter here I don't think I'll be needing it all that much for a while. Well I do know that alloy heads will be fine for unleaded as they have hardened valve guides and seats, it was only steel heads that had issues with non lead fuel because the lead content was the lubricant for the valve stems and guides. Last night I did a search and found an older thread talking about the fuel to use, also mentioned changing the tuning to run 91 octane. I use Penrite oil with added Zinc in my vehicles but the last time the oil was changed was just before I collected it and the oil used didn't have added Zinc. I may do another oil/filter change in another 4,000mls so I know what I have in it. Graham. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3328 Registered: 04-2003 |
Graham, Wise and essential move on your part - although I would do it now rather than 4000 miles time. IMHO an immediate filter change is a necessity as you have no idea or indication what came adrift in the engine internals during your trip back to home base. In fact, I would change all fluids/filters immediately to give you a known start base for planning future maintenance. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 118 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... I may meet halfway and just add a Zinc additive to the oil to cover me for the next 4,000 miles. That way the odometer will read 115,000 even when I do the change to Penrite with the extra Zinc. The dipstick is clean with no signs of metal flakes etc in the oil. This weekend I am putting the Shadow away for a few weeks until I get some more free time to work on her but for now she takes me to work and back until then. I am thinking of doing a trip to Coober Pedy later in the year when its dry but before the heat sets in,.... should be able to get some nice pictures out there,... Just a thought,... anyone else interested in going,...? Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 120 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well tonight before I left work when I went outside to warm the car up before I clocked off I unplugged the positive connection off the AC compressor so now its not engaging and causing an increase in fuel consumption. The heater works better I noticed. Graham. | |||
| Jeff Young Grand Master Username: jeyjey Post Number: 409 Registered: 10-2010 |
Hi Graham, The cars were designed in a humid climate, so the A/C is always on to dry the air, even when the A/C control is calling for warmth. All temp control is done through the heater valve. Cheers, Jeff. | |||
| Mark Herbstreit Prolific User Username: mark_herbstreit Post Number: 199 Registered: 05-2005 |
Silverton, Woomera, Coober Pedy: tick     | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3329 Registered: 04-2003 |
Mark, Thanks for the photos especially the last one of the arid country golf course where the sand "greens" are held together with recycled engine oil. I remember them from childhood when I used to caddy for my parents playing golf in Hillston Far West NSW. Used to end the round with greasy black hands from picking the golf balls out of the hole after putting. My parents were too smart by half - they enjoyed their golf and I got greasy hands....... | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 121 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... Well I guess I'm not the first to think of going for a trip 'out there',.... Will still look at planning a trip later in the year around Oct-Nov. Might also look at doing a run across the Nullarbor,.... Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 124 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Well my Shadow is now back in storage until the 27th July when she will get some more work done to fix an oil leak, a leak in the hydraulic system and new plugs-leads and dizzy cap. New disc pads and flush and change the hydraulic fluid. Anything else is just cosmetic I can do over time like refinish the door capping's, new front carpet. Might change the interior lights to LED's so there a little brighter. I'll leave the instrument cluster lights as they are. Oh and I disconnected the Battery because last time she was in storage she was there for 2 weeks and when I went to start her she was just a little sluggish to turn over. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 130 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... This morning on the way into work I collected a small package from the post office. Inside was 3 RR key rings I ordered just over a week ago. Graham. | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 456 Registered: 11-2017 |
The original was a rubber FOB, designed to not scratch the dash wood. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 131 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... These look like leather, I think they are meant to be. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 132 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... Got the Shadow out this morning after what must be 2 months in storage. Reconnected the battery and Camilla started right up. Ran a little rough at the start but cleared up when the float bowls must have fully filled up to their correct level. Took her out for a drive for about 2hrs and she ran smooth as silk. Might get time to clean the pots and do a few small jobs on it tomorrow. Graham. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 474 Registered: 05-2016 |
Clean and replace the pots one at a time just in case you swap them by accident, each carb is unique and individually machined at the factory. | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 133 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Sorry to say I didn't get time to clean the pots today, spent more time than I thought on my Inter D1310. Anyway she seems to be running fine just now so I'll have to do that job next chance I get. Graham. | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1169 Registered: 11-2015 |
Graham, Is there a drivablity problem or is the pot work just maintance? Also, What could you possibly been doing on the D1310 that could have taken more than 5 minutes, changing an axle? | |||
| Graham Phillips Experienced User Username: playtime Post Number: 134 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,..... ross, actually there is no drivability issue, I just want to do it for my own peace of mind. Since I bought the Shadow I want to make sure to my satisfaction and standards everything is just so. I'll also cheak/re-set the mixture and idle, when dead cold the idle can be very low and I think even when warmed up it could do with a minor adjustment but drives just fine otherwise. Graham. |
