| Author |
Message |
    
Hans kloosterman
Yet to post message
Username: hans
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 12 November, 2003 - 09:35 pm: |    |
Hello all, I recently became the owner of RR silver shadow 24244.
The car is in pretty good shape and the mileage indicated is as far as I can ascertain genuine.(45000 MILES).
It drives like a dream but as with any vehicle almost 30 years old a few minor bugs exist.
Last summer I took it for a run to melbourne and had a minor problem with the fuel system which appears only in extremely hot weather,I thought I had a fuel blockage but found the fuel was vaporising because of the extreme conditions.
The fuel lines are very close to the heated engine components and I think insulating them or moving them away from the engine a bit more may prevent any recurrence of this problem .
I wonder if this problem is common on these cars or is it because my car was originally a european delivery vehicle?
Another problem I have is with the windscreen wipers,they seem to be loose inside the body panel they are pretty erratic in their operation.
I have checked them at the external attachment points and they are firmly fixed everythng seems ok at the wiper motor end as well.
I don't know how to access the body panel without a service manual and as yet I don't have one.
My final problem is in regard to the heater air control flaps,the one in the console centre was stuck in the closed position and after some careful prising it became operational again and I found the heater and air-con works fine.
The problem is that the floor vent flaps don't seem to work and once again I am not able to gain access to them without a service manual.
If someone out there can assist me in my endeavours to rectify any of these problems I would very gratefull. Looking forward to any positive input. thanks.
|
William H. Trovinger II
Prolific User
Username: bill_trovinger
Post Number: 43
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, 13 November, 2003 - 03:16 pm: | |
Hans;
I would suggest doing a little looking on eBay. You can find the whole 5 volume workshop manuals on CD for under U$ 100.
Regards,
Bill |
Larry
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 68.195.74.199
| | Posted on Thursday, 13 November, 2003 - 04:47 pm: | |
Hi Hans,
I have the 4-volume manual set on CD available for your car. Email me at tbird@consultant.com for more info if interested.
Larry |
Hans kloosterman
New User
Username: hans
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, 13 November, 2003 - 06:56 pm: | |
Bill,
I am very new to pc's and the net but Iwill try and see if I can locate the service manuals on ebay. Thanks for the suggestion. Hans. |
BobUK
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 172.185.217.126
| | Posted on Saturday, 15 November, 2003 - 11:03 pm: | |
Tip for engines that have been idle for a long time.
turn the engine by hand with ignition off.
I like to see the engine "bounce" off the compression.
If it doesn't don't start it.
Sometimes if you keep turning the engine by hand it frees up.
And I like to see the oil pressure light go out on the starter before I fire the engine up.
15 seconds max on the starter. 30 seconds rest.
I have seen electrics burst into flames on the way home.
And a drive shaft become disconnected and go through the gas tank.
brake fluid sprayed all over the paint work.
The amount of stuff I have seen mucked up because incorrect recommissioning.
|
Bill Coburn
Prolific User
Username: bill_coburn
Post Number: 66
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, 16 November, 2003 - 07:36 am: | |
Bob's sad story (even though it is not new) reminded me of a Mk VI Bentley that had sat around for a few years waiting for a paint job. I was living in Washinton DC at the time and had this dear old thing trailered to me to see if I could free the engine. Standing on the crank handle simple bent the handle! I literally filled cylinders to their respective capacities with WD40 and jumped on the crank handle when I thought of it. Meanwhile other jobs filled in the time. Came the day when the whole thing came unstuck and I put the plugs back in connected it all up, fresh oil etc and it started almost first pop. The tail of the car poked out of the garage which was under a rather elegant house which I had rented. Apart from the noise of the engine I was oblivious to all else so delighted was I that the thing was going until I heard a wailing noise that turned out to be the local fire brigade. In my excitement I had not looked out of the garage door since had I done so I would have noticed that the neighbourhood had disappeared in a very large cloud of dense white smoke. I rushed out and got to the sidewalk before I could see anything and almost ran into a fireman feverishly uncoiling his hose. "Anybody else in there", he yelled at me. A frantic series of gestures slowed his trained response until eventually I explained the source of the smoke. He was not pleased neither were the neighbours. It cost me a large barbecue the following weekend to which we invited the fire crew who became good friends with us. The car by the way is still on the road after 30 odd years! WD40 must be good stuff! |
kevin steel
New User
Username: kevin_steel
Post Number: 2
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, 23 November, 2003 - 09:28 pm: | |
hi all,
could someone please suggest what could be wrong with my silver shadow 1,it seems to be fouling a spark plug in the b1 cylinder,could this be a valve stem seal problem or a rings problem. i drive the car at least 3 times a week and it goes well and dosnt use oil or blow smoke.the spark plug seems to foul at about 500 mile intervals.thanks and regards kev |
David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore
Post Number: 151
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, 23 November, 2003 - 10:58 pm: | |
Hi Kevin,
What colour is the fouling on the plug - is it black, tan, orange, grey or whatever?
Also what type of fuel are you using? |
whunter
Prolific User
Username: whunter
Post Number: 37
Registered: 10-2003
| | Posted on Monday, 24 November, 2003 - 02:05 am: | |
Hello Kevin
Insufficient data.
#1. Chasse number?
#2. Is all vehicle service up to date?
#3. Date of last carb service?
#4. Date of last fuel filter change?
#5. Date of last oil change?
#6. Average distance driven (each day you drive)?
#7. Fuel tank close to empty/filled how often?
#8. Longest time vehicle was (parked/not driven) idle during the last two years?
#9. Any fuel additives put in fuel tank during last two years?
#10. Any oil flush or additives put in engine during last two years?
#11. Any topping up of hydraulic system during last two years?
#12. Any warning lights, even quick flashes while running?
#13. Have you put a mechanical gauge on the engine to double check oil pressure?
I will stop at this point.
My suggestion is to make a fresh post title "spark plug fouled (chasse#)", with suggested data added where possible.
Hope you are lucky and got vehicle service history.
Have a wonderful day.
whunter
RROC, Lake Michigan, Motor and Ohio region.
ASE Master Mechanic
Bloomfield Eurotech
45671 Woodward Avenue
Pontiac, MI 48341
Work Phone 248-334-6400 Fax 248-334-2363
asemastermechanic@juno.com |
kevin steel
New User
Username: kevin_steel
Post Number: 3
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Monday, 24 November, 2003 - 06:34 am: | |
hi david
the colour of the spark plug is black and it seems a wet black and also im using premium unleaded.regards kev |
David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore
Post Number: 152
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Monday, 24 November, 2003 - 07:36 pm: | |
Hi Kevin,
We have eliminated lead replacement fuel as a cause - wet black indicates a number of possibilities starting with a spark plug that may not be in the correct heat range - I would try swapping the problem plug with another plug from the engine that is showing no evidence of fouling and see if it develops the same problem - if no, replace the plug with a brand new one of the same type and you should not have any problems. If yes and no other plugs are sooting up [ie your mixture is not too rich]; you probably have an oil leak into the cylinder from a leaky valve stem seal or worn rings/scored cylinder liner. If this is the case, go to a reputable auto parts supplier, take your current spark plug and ask them to give you the same plug but one heat range hotter and see if this reduces/eliminates the problem. If there is an improvement but still some fouling, you could try the next higher heat range and this should give you some time to save for the cost of doing a head overhaul if the problem continues. |
Dwayne Kennemore
Yet to post message
Username: dkennemo
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 31 December, 2003 - 05:46 am: | |
Bill, I had a quick question - how do you remove the starter on a Silver Shadow I - I, like the originator of this thread, have a Shadow that has sat around for a while (5 years). |
Bill Coburn
Prolific User
Username: bill_coburn
Post Number: 93
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 31 December, 2003 - 08:56 am: | |
Dwayne Nothing special there. You need a couple of fancy spanner bits to get at the bolts and I think you may have to drop the exhaust pipes from the manifolds to actually get the thing out. It is held in by three bolts again one from the rear and two from the front as I remember. I suggest you do a lot of degreasing in the area before starting as the gunk there is absolutely filthy. One time I worked here on a later car I literally threw my old clothes in the bin - they were not worth the wash powder it would have taken to get them clean! When you get it out get a quote to overhaul it. They can be very expensive and it may be cheaper (better) to fit the much later Nippondenso starter which was introduced in 1987. This is half the size twice as powerful and is a little gem. Richard Treacy put me on to a firm in the States that is adapting these starters to the RR vee eight and I am still waiting for a price as the Factory issue runs to over a big one in Aussie dollars. The starter on my Spur is starting to grunt on compression so I have a personal interest. |
SG Peterson
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 67.64.221.25
| | Posted on Sunday, 09 May, 2004 - 09:05 am: | |
Greetings:
I am considering the purchase of a "nested" (Bill Coburn 2/25/03) 1979 SSII with 25,736 miles. The list below is a summary of the findings of the mechanic I have retained to inspect the vehicle prior to closing the sale and the rear bumper is the only exterior flaw. From your experience, do these numbers seem to be in line?
Your thoughts are appreciated,
Steve Peterson, USA
sgpeterson@cox.net
Rebuild carbueretor, parts & labor 895
Reuild brake accumulator and brake valves, p & l 950
Replace all brake hoses 465
Replace fuel pump with OEM 530
Replace A/C compressor dryer and expansion valve 1,250
Replace radiator and flush system 875
Steering rack rebuild and alignment 1,475
Replace upper shock bushing 325
Change all fluids and filters, lube 275
Replace all tires and balance 480
West sand and buff silver and black exterior paint 600
Replace interior upholstery in Connoly leather 8,900
Replace wiper washer pump 20
Replace rear bumper cover 100
Replace cooling fan 100
Subtotal 17,240
Purchase price 13,000
Grand Total 30,240
|
David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore
Post Number: 247
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, 09 May, 2004 - 11:03 am: | |
Hi Steve,
Interesting worklist and prices - is your mechanic experienced with R-R/B vehicles? If so then the prices in USD seem to represent a combination of "bargain basement" and expensive - if not then I would be very apprehensive about your mechanic finding he had underquoted and then either refusing to reassemble the car unless the job was requoted and you paid extra. Some of the work does not appear to be critical and could possibly be held over to a later time however without inspecting the vehicle it is difficult to comment. Certainly the leather work is a possibility for deferment especially if you use one of the proprietary leather restoration treatments to clean, soften and fill any cracks/splits etc. |
William H. Trovinger II
Grand Master
Username: bill_trovinger
Post Number: 107
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, 09 May, 2004 - 02:11 pm: | |
Steve;
This cannot be an RR or B dealer? The prices seem very low! IL, RR/B dealers quote me two years ago 2,500 just for rams another 3,000 for height control valves. He did replace my fuel pump in 2000 and that was over 800.
I bought my '76 SS I just after previous owner had complete new interior installed. I feel he did over pay but not by double your quote, and yes he paid 17 plus for that interior.
Question: If the car has that much work needed why not look for a different one? Just a thought.
Regards,
Bill
|
SG Peterson
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 24.207.251.206
| | Posted on Sunday, 09 May, 2004 - 03:49 pm: | |
David & Bill:
Thank you both for reiterating questions that have been in the back of my mind. The mileage is verifiable and the colors are what I desire. I have been watching and documenting sale and bid prices for over a year now and I am about ready to burst! I know you get what you pay for, however in this instance I believe I have found something I can work with. The interior replacement (about half of the cost of the restoration project is in line with Heritage Upholstery & Trim, Blaine, WA (materials only)) does not necessarily have to be done. The hides were covered with some type of dye or treatment - they say Lexol - that obviously did not work (the rear armrest was stuck to the bench).
The car comes from an individual who has collected too many and I think he let the children take this one to the beach for a day, they tried to clean it up and then left it parked for a few years.
As for the mechanic, he seems diligent and eager. A team from Vantage Motorworks in Miami left and opened shop. They appear organized and have been thorough – so perhaps a performance bond is all that is required - but that too would probably equal the estimate! I also consulted dealers on pricing and a brake job – all the way around was about 5,500 and the mechanic’s quote was about the same – note he is not performing that level of service on the brakes in this quote.
I have looked all over for a 79-80 SSII, including the anniversary edition, and there simply aren’t that many worth purchasing with mileage below 30k. I tried to upload some photos for all to see, but they were too big. So, short of that, I only have the inspection report and what I have read on this (by the way, the information on this site is tremendous) and other sites to arm myself with information and questions. This is about all I have to determine if it is worth while to take the plunge and use a contract for service with controls so I don’t end up with a car the mechanic refuses to reassemble (as you adroitly warned of).
Should I buy it? Is this cause for a second inspection/opinion and from whom as I am not mechanically qualified?
Steve Peterson, USA
sgpeterson@cox.net |
Jon Rothwell
New User
Username: jon_rothwell
Post Number: 2
Registered: 4-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, 09 May, 2004 - 08:50 pm: | |
It sounds like you are going to spend a lot of money on this car, my question is how much will you be spending later on down the track when all the other things that need fixing come to light?
Rubber bushes and hoses rot and engines corrode while a car is sitting.
I would seek a second and even third opinion from someone who is an absolute expert on these cars. |
David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore
Post Number: 250
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Monday, 10 May, 2004 - 01:57 am: | |
Hi Steve, Jon has highlighted an important fact re purchasing a Silver Shadow especially a low-mileage specimen. The cars need to be driven around 10,000 kilometres a year to keep them in best condition and avoid deterioration due to lack of use - I would be happier to have seen around 100/150K on the clock for this vehicle - are you certain the car has only done the mileage claimed? The condition of the car seems inconsistent with the mileage - perhaps the clock has ticked over the 100,000 point a few times!!
Our previous Shadow Registrar had a well-known statement:
"Every extra dollar you spend on purchasing a Shadow will save you at least two dollars in repairs"
I would follow Bill Trovinger's advice and use the money you have budgeted for repairs to purchase a more expensive better quality vehicle preferably from a RROC[USA] member where the true history of the vehicle can be established. I would also pay the cost of a recognised Shadow specialist to fully appraise the car if you decide to purchase it. |
SG Peterson
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 24.207.251.206
| | Posted on Monday, 10 May, 2004 - 04:55 am: | |
Thanks Jon & David for your thoughts.
I have confirmed this is a one owner vehicle (he has 13 others). It appears to have been neglected (or poorly maintained). With respect to mileage, the mechanic stated the odometer showed no evidence of tampering, as he stated the rim around the odometer would have shown the mark of a screw driver or other tool that would have released it (is that correct?). So, perhaps it has seen 100k miles or more.
What speficially from the list above seems to be a repair that is out of the ordinary?
As for further inspection, do you suggest anyone in the Boca Raton, Florida area? |
drewmout (172.139.117.176)
| | Posted on Sunday, 02 February, 2003 - 01:14 am: | |
Hello Mates,
I've recently become the new owner of a '78 Silver Shadow II, with low mileage on the ticker. Evidently, it was well maintained up to a few years ago (there are service records), then sat unused/neglected since then. And while I've proudly owed other Brit cars (Morris/MG/Healey) this is my first RR...so I'm a bit behind on where to start for good info.
On the positive, the exterior is almost perfect, though the electrical and mechanical have some known problems, and the cost was very very reasonable, thereby leaving some budget for the numerous repairs I already know to address. That said, here is what I know so far. All comments are greatly appreciated:
1. Would anyone suggest any other shop reference than the main books sold by the Club library? Are there no technical sites that would keep me busy while awaiting a shop manual? How about the CD reference collections sold at eBay and other places?
2. I'm having a hard time finding reference info to purchase a correctly sized battery. It came with a *dead* deep cycle marine battery rated for 550 CCA/690 CA, but I'm not convinced it was appropriate. Can anyone suggest the correct draw or rating?
3. None of the power windows work...but since there are several excellent articles online addressing where to trace and likely causes, I'll say nothing else about that. At least until later.
4. We picked her up yesterday - jumped off the electrical - then drove away. Several miles down the road my trailing driver noticed smoke at all four axels, so we stopped, let it cool off, then went the remaining few miles to home. I'm guessing from other references I've seen online that the brake pumps may be tight, possibly seized. In the absence of shop manuals, where do I start to diagnose this problem?
5. The engine oil seems to be lubricated with cafe au lait...in other words, there's water in the oil. And she is kind enough to drip out a small puddle when running in one place for five minutes. On another car my first guess would be a blown head gasket. Should I be considering other alternatives?
She is a beautiful car, and with some attention I'm sure will be a wonderful driver, so any help getting me through these first steps will be fondly remebered.
Regards, |
David Gore (63.60.5.109)
| | Posted on Sunday, 02 February, 2003 - 05:39 am: | |
My suggestions are as follows:
1. Published information on Shadows is essentially restricted to the factory manuals, spare parts lists and service bulletins as well as the articles published in the various Club magazines over the years - the proposed International Technical Archive is intended to bring all this information together in one place for easy access.
2.The battery size seems right - I use a 4WD heavy duty battery rated at 600 CCA - in any event, the main power cables from the battery, in my humble opinion are undersized for the electrical load so battery size is not relevant other than time to discharge when running the clock and feeding the mysterious battery drain I can not track down in my car.
3. Check both the electrics and also the window lift chains as they may be rusted solid due to lack of use. A useful preventative maintenance procedure is to operate to their full travel ALL power windows at least once a week to avoid "frozen" chains.
4.I have had this experience when resurrecting DRH14434 after its period of inactivity. In my case the cause was "gelled" brake fluid caused by someone adding disc brake fluid to the RR363 sometime in the past. The "gel" blocked the brake lines preventing backflow of the fluid to release the brakes after use. I had to dismantle the hydraulic system, clean out the reservoir and fix the intake filters that had collapsed from the pump suction; both pump pushrods had also broken due to hydrostatic lock after being clogged by the "gel". The brake lines were cleaned by pressure flushing with methylated spirits [denatured alcohol]. While I had the system down, I reconditioned all the brake calipers, replaced all brake hoses, overhauled the accumulators, pressure limiting valve, height control valves and master cylinder and replaced some corroded brake lines/copper capillary tube [entirely unsuitable for brakeline applications] fitted at some stage when the car lived in the UK. I did this 4 years ago and the hydraulic system has performed flawlessly since. As preventative maintenance, I replace the RR363 every two years and partially bleed the system every year to remove stagnant fluid from the calipers.
5. Water in the oil could be as simple as condensate arising from the storage conditions and time through to leaking head gasket(s) and/or cylinder liner seals - unless you have lots of time, patience, skill and equipment, this problem should be handed to a R-R engine specialist. I would replace the oil/filter and check for further water contamination first though. Also the cooling system should be drained, the thermostat removed and reverse flushed before refilling with 50/50 ethylene glycol antifreeze and water. The engine is particularly susceptible to damage from overheating and repairing this can be expensive.
The location of the oil leak will determine the cause, if it is at the front of the car it could be the front crankshaft seal, the rocker covers, the oil pan and/or front "A plate" cover, if at the rear; the rear "A plate" cover or the rear crankshaft scroll seal due to blocked flame trap filter pads causing the engine to pressurise and force oil past the scroll seal. Suggest you steam clean the engine [do not use alkali engine cleaners as they will corrode the aluminium components, kerosine[paraffin] is OK], take the car for a 5/10 minute drive and look for the leak(s).
It appears you will have to expect a series of problems to arise due to the lack of use of the car [R-R/B cars appreciate regular driving which keeps them in their best condition - they do not like intermittent use and low mileage cars can give more problems than cars with higher mileage for this reason] and the previous owner may also have skimped on maintenance in the later stages of ownership to save money [a sure way to ultimately spend more money than that saved by neglecting scheduled maintenance]. Why was the car stored instead of being used? Please do not let your present and future experience cloud your opinion of the vehicle, once you fix the consequences of its past lack of use and/or neglect, you will enjoy the experience of driving one of the world's best road cars that is equally at home in city driving or long-distance country trips. Good luck with your car and we will try and help with any requests for asistance - I suspect you are from overseas however if you are in Australia, please join your local Rolls-Royce Branch. If you are in NSW, we have an active Self-Help Group in the Branch to help owners understand and maintain their vehicles and you would be able to get advice and assistance from our participants |
David Gore (63.60.5.109)
| | Posted on Sunday, 02 February, 2003 - 11:27 am: | |
OOPs,
forgot to mention another reason for the brakes locking on are swollen flexible hoses between the chassis and calipers due to attack from stagnant RR363 fluid. The hoses will allow fluid to pass when the brakes are applied and then collapse blocking the fluid return when the brakes are released.
For the benefit of others reading this topic, it is not good practice to drive a Shadow that has been in storage for longer than 6 months if it is not known whether the factory storage procedures have been followed. As a general rule, the following procedures should be the minimum precautionary measures undertaken before driving the car:
1. Change engine/transmission oils and filters; flush cooling system and replace with 50/50 ethylene glycol antifreeze/water. Crack drain plug in fuel tank, drain fuel and check for water/sediment before filling with fresh petrol. Change in-line fuel filter. Tap SU fuel pumps if no ticking noise heard when ignition is turned on for first time after filling tank. Check damper oil level in both carburetters.
2. Start engine, expect some hydraulic lifter clatter until the engine warms up and then listen for hydraulic pump "knock", undertake a brake pressure pump-down test and if less than 40 pumps depressurise the system, the accumulators should be checked and recharged before the car is moved for safety reasons; the brake hoses should be removed and inspected for internal swelling and replaced if necessary; the RR363 should be flushed out and replaced with fresh fluid.
3. Check tyres for cracking, delamination and ability to hold air. Lift front and rear of vehicle, rotate wheels and check for bearing roughness. Check steering linkages for smooth operation and lack of free-play. Check rear drive shafts/differential for noise/roughness and check oil level in differential.
Then and only then consider driving the vehicle. neglect of the above precautionary measures could result in expensive damage to components let alone accident damage if failure occurs whilst the vehicle is being driven. The cost of hiring a suitable car trailer and high rated towing vehicle [3 tonne minimum] or a professional car carrier is much less than that of repair. |
Bob/'70 Bentley
| | Posted on Monday, 24 February, 2003 - 09:44 pm: | |
Dave, I'll add one more to your item #1 in the "things to watch out for when starting a stored SS/T" list.
When the SU Carb Bowls are dry from no fuel, the Floats can lock in the down position and/or the Needles can lock in open position. When the car is started for the first time, the Floats/Needles may not work to prevent additional fuel from entering the Bowls and is vented down the Drain Tubes to the Garage or Driveway Floor. Always look under your car for Fuel Dumping if the Bowls have been dry or you have recently run out of gas. A good knock to the Bowl with a Screwdriver Handle end will usually fix this.
Bob/'70 Bentley
>>>One more for long-stored SS/T's, get under the car and give a good yank to the Rubber Fuel Lines to see if they slide off of the Metal Lines. The Metal Lines have no Flares and if the Rubber has shrunk, they will pull right off... |
David Gore
| | Posted on Tuesday, 25 February, 2003 - 07:36 am: | |
Bob,
Thanks for information - items such as this are always gratefully received and I will add to our archive.
Kind regards
David |
Bill Coburn
| | Posted on Tuesday, 25 February, 2003 - 09:40 am: | |
I cannot think how to put this tactfully so please excuse my brashness. I stand astonished at people buying a 'nested' Shadow (or any car for that matter) that has sat undisturbed for months or years, and to quote the version I have heard so many times " Yep I popped a battery in her, a bit of water, checked the oil, threw some petrol down the pipe and YAY she started straight off. Drove her to Bourke/San Antonio/Terra del Fuego and she didn't miss a beat."
Let me list a few of the things that can go wrong. The petrol tank has carefully settled a mass of gunk near the intake, the pumps assuming they work pick it up and block the filter. The filter gas been known to disintegrate with age and in pieces it can block the lines so thoroughly they have to be replaced. The electrics in the pumps get bugs in them and short out which has been the source of some interesting conflagrations. The brakes have seized or about to as David describes, but sometimes the accumulators have rusted internally and in the event of the pumps managing to pump up to full pressure, one of them explodes blowing the side out of the engine or removing the appropriate mudguard.
The accumulator regulator valves could jam with rust and the pumps not having a cutout, hopefully the waisted section on the push rods will snap and you will have no hydraulics. The seals on the cylinder liners may have failed and filled the sump with coolant or what ever they last put in it, and the engine starts and actually runs on oily water! Worse the rings have glued themselves to the liners!!! Fuel lines burst - another cause for a fire, spiders manage to augment the wiring system causing shorts.
The waterpump seal rips itself to shreds having stuck to the pump face, the transmission having a good cup or so of condensate in the sump, dissolves all its clutch facing adhesives and ceases to function, the tyres are rotten and the grease in the various wheel bearings has solidified and bends the cages awry destroying the bearings and possibly bends the shafting. The gunk that has settled in the power steering box gets stirred up and jams the power valves or the rack seals rip themselves to pieces at the first movement of the wheel. Shall I go on?
There is only one way to recover a car that has 'sat around' and that is on the back of a truck with the aid of a winch. From the description of this car, having got the car home, in no particular order I would drain everything liquid in the car. remove all the hydraulics, hoses calipers and reservoirs. Remove the radiator, all coolant hoses, the water pump, header tank and the heater box and tap. Remove the plugs, whole induction system and the valley cover. Remove the sump. Remove all flexible fuel lines filters and pumps. Soak the cylinders in WD40/Penetrene as well as the tappets. Only then turn the engine over. Remove the alternator and starter and send them off for overhaul.
I do not apologise for the tone of this post as I have seen a number of cars simply destroyed in this situation when it was all quite unnecessary. And worse still, the hapless owner in his misery then broadcasts to anyone who cares to listen what rotten cars these Rolls-Royces are!!!
Perhaps David the time has come to put together a guide, 'Everything you wanted to know about a Rolls-Royce but were afraid to ask' where potential owners can take simple precautions in recovering these vehicles not only to save the car but to save their pocket. |
David Gore
| | Posted on Tuesday, 25 February, 2003 - 10:26 am: | |
Hi Bill,
You must be a mind reader as I mentioned the need for this project to John Begg - Shadow Registrar last week as a useful guide for owners/buyers - I have a similar guide from the UK MG Car Club that they give to members which does exactly this.
Like you, I never cease to be amazed at the risks purchasers take after purchasing a stored vehicle by attempting to drive it rather than trailering it to a suitable location where proper precautions, such as you accurately detail, can be taken before attempting to bring the mechanical components to life! The cost of hiring a braked trailer and suitable tow vehicle are much less than the repair costs if something goes wrong. |
Bob/'70 Bentley
| | Posted on Tuesday, 25 February, 2003 - 10:08 pm: | |
Dave & Bill, I'm new to this Board but post on others but a comprehensive "Kick'en Her Over for the First Time" Guide, would really be handy. To be useful, it has to include the "why's" too. Just making a listing of what to do doesn't make it, since many owner's, like myself, who tend to skip over the "yeh, I already know that" steps, REALLY need to know what happens if some of the steps are skipped, such as the items that Bill mentions.
I had stored my Bentley for 13 years and only learned about the "Fuel Line Pull-Off" test, as well as the "Fuel Dump To the Ground" Bowl Tubes, AFTER the event occurred. Not good.
Some of my posts about reserecting older SS/T's are basics for any car, but I have found that many new SS/T' owners, tend not to be the tinkerers that are familiar with automotive basics, let alone some of the unique (goofy) things that these cars noted for. There is quite a lot of logic on how these cars work, but even the big set of manuals, offer little in the way of explaining how they interact. So a good "So you want to own a SS/T Guide" would be a very good asset to Owners.
Also, most of these cars, "sit-around" due to bad Hydraulics and the Owners don't/can't spend the funds to have them rebuilt. I think that a major part of the "Guide" should be devoted to this item, especially how to do a major rust/crud flush.
Hope this helps,
Bob/'70 Bentley |
Bill Coburn
| | Posted on Tuesday, 25 February, 2003 - 10:23 pm: | |
Dave
I think we might just do this.
You all
For general information a little group in Canberra compile a monthly newsletter which is devoted almost exclusively to Shadows I II and III with bits on Clouds and very occasionally on Mk VI's and R types.We can supply anyone with a CD with the nearly 300 pages on a CD in Australia for $A10. People overseas ask me cavacharles@bigpond.com.
Bob I take your point and it is all very well for me to huff and puff about what you should do but I do appreciate that many owners are nervous about looking into the engine compartment without changing into their best clothes. I'll talk to Dave and see how best to approach the problem.
Cheers
|
David Gore
| | Posted on Tuesday, 25 February, 2003 - 10:55 pm: | |
Hi Bob [and Bill of course!!],
I will be preparing a presentation for the Shadow Registry Technical session at our forthcoming Federal Rally in Western Australia during April and it would be appropriate to include this type of information together with the normal preventative maintenance material that is usually discussed. Bob and I have previously provided information on other sites and it is good to have access to someone who has experienced a different set of problems to me and more importantly can find and describe the solutions to these problems. Welcome to our Forum Bob and we look forward to your future participation. Trust you can find the time to read the past posts and other information on this site to get an appreciation of our "Down-Under" approach to R-R/B vehicles. |
|
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page