| Author | Message | ||
     David Michael Leedy Experienced User Username: dleedy Post Number: 41 Registered: 11-2011 |
Well it's been 14 months since I drove my 75 Shadow..I had the following done: Stripped and repaint New Alternator New Fuel Pump, fuel Lines, Brake Lines, New Right/Left hydraulic lift valves New Wires Plugs, Plus??? Issues: Fuel Guage not working - (?) Not sure about cruise control? Brake peddle seems low... The mechanic said there is no air in system.(bled it)(Anybody familiar with adding pressure/increasing pedal height some how?). Runs nice - Took a long slow ride in it today.  | ||
| Alan Dibley Prolific User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 172 Registered: 10-2009 |
David, the master cylinder was omitted from cars in about '75 so maybe your car has one. If so it seems a good idea to remove it and fit a rubber device to re-introduce some "feel". I did it by using the master cylinder as a holder for a piece of rubber hose to act as a spring. A bit of fiddling with washers as packing gave a perfect feel, and peace of mind after two inexplicable "foot to the floor" incidents which responded to pumping the pedal. The large rear cylinders should then be fed via the G-valve and the small ones direct so that the anti-lock system works as the factory intended. Result - no sponginess and peace of mind. If you have driven a Citroen with power-operated brakes the action is familiar. Somewhere in the forum is a comment from someone who tried to stop the car using only the master cylinder. It doesn't. Alan D. | ||
| h_kelly Prolific User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 272 Registered: 3-2012 |
Hi David, "Shadow, master cylinder" in thread dated 10-03-18 may be of benefit to you. | ||
| David Michael Leedy Experienced User Username: dleedy Post Number: 42 Registered: 11-2011 |
Thanks but unfortunately this car had master cylinder delete. Also now the car is not starting as there seems to be no spark and is going back to the shop. Very frustrating. It cranks strong, new fuel pump is working and spraying starter fluid into carb didn’t work. Now a new mystery search begins delaying my goal of daily driving. | ||
| h_kelly Prolific User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 273 Registered: 3-2012 |
David re spark,a quick check of fuses may identify fault?. Any spark at the points?. Re, removal of master cylinder (removal post manufacturer with no alternative in situ) will give a low pedal as the master cylinder gives the extra pedal feel. | ||
| David Michael Leedy Experienced User Username: dleedy Post Number: 43 Registered: 11-2011 |
As far as the fuses go, what/where fuses should I be looking for? Also, as far as the Master Cylinder, I had actually bought a replacement per a previous mechanic suggestion and determined that the car was originally built with that part deleted. That mechanic was going to try to retro fit it in but was unable to as far as I remember. | ||
| Jim Walters Prolific User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 207 Registered: 1-2014 |
If you can hear fuel pump ticking when ignition switched on then a fuse is not the issue. Pull out the card from under the fuses to ID the ignition fuse if no fuel pump noise. You should pick up a spark tester like this:  Using it will quickly determine if you have a fuel or ignition fault. It will pinpoint whether an ignition fault is coil, rotor, or ignition module (75 Shadow after VIN 22118 should have Lucas OPUS electronic ignition). A test light will determine whether you have voltage to the coil and will eliminate an ignition switchbox or ballast resistor fault. If your car is after VIN 22118 it was built with a rubber "spring" instead of a master cylinder. Print off the workshop manual section covering the setup of the distribution valves and give it to your mechanic. Your low pedal feel is most likely due to an incorrect adjustment of the distribution valve linkage in the rat trap. SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | ||
| Jim Walters Prolific User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 208 Registered: 1-2014 |
Here is a link to a spark tester. These are cheap but decent quality and work perfectly to quickly diagnose and identify faults causing no start issues related to ignition faults. Buy a couple and keep one in your tool kit in the car so you can test anywhere you have an FTP. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPARK-PLUG-Tester-Ignition-System-Coil-Engine-In-Line-Auto-Diagnostic-Test-Tools/382168108658?epid=15005621994&hash=item58fafe8e72:rk:1:pf:0 SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 2088 Registered: 6-2006 |
Just a thought... When you say the pedal seems low, are you talking about while you are driving it on the road. Pushing the pedal whilst stationary gives no indication of travel and braking effect whilst moving. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2005 Registered: 9-2004 |
Many years ago when I first ran the Shadow with a master cylinder system the brake pedal travel became excessive on application with engine running, this was the failing of the master cylinder. A new original type was fitted with a proper system bleed, no Land Rover bigger bore type needed for what ever reason. Towing and long trips with spirited high speed drives with out trailer the brakes are faultless. Don't "if it isn't broke don't fix it" with the brake etc hoses. That one did catch me out. | ||
| David Michael Leedy Experienced User Username: dleedy Post Number: 44 Registered: 11-2011 |
Hello: Well, I had it towed the less than a mile to the auto shop and of course, it turned out to be a loose wire next to the rotor/cap...Started up and after a short while, drove it home last night... This morning, went to take it to the office and it was very hard to start...ended up spraying starter fluid in the carb and that worked...I drove it around for about an hour and then tried to restart and it did start right up... I am worried as we are entering the cold winter season... A couple other issues...No fuel gauge working...Anyone know where the fuse is for that one...Cruise control not working...(Always did in the past)...again, is it a fuse for that as well? I think it needs a carb adjustment as well as it runs on a sec or two when I turn it off... I know that as I drive it more often, the better it will get but it's a little scary not knowing if I'll make it home and don't want to tow it again anytime soon...Catch 22... | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2006 Registered: 9-2004 |
Was the spray job carried out in a heated spray booth, I ask because I have know the gauge needle to stick on the resting peg. To test. Earth out the tank sender lead, gauge should move to the full position. | ||
| Jim Walters Prolific User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 211 Registered: 1-2014 |
Does the fuel gauge indicate oil level when you push the oil button? When you say it runs on after switching off the key, is it dieseling or continuing to run as normal until it stops? Dieseling you likely have an anti run on valve fault. Normal running a switchbox fault. SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | ||
| David Michael Leedy Experienced User Username: dleedy Post Number: 45 Registered: 11-2011 |
The engine ran on and seemed to backfire except this afternoon it actually started right up and seemed fine after a rough start this morning. Driving the car often seems to fix problems? Strange to say. I still don’t have a working fuel gauge and the cruise control seems not to be working which it did in the past. Are fuses the culprit? If so, where are the fuses for these two? When you press the button under the fuel gauge nothing happens where it used to buzz and illuminate the gauge. Words of wisdom from this forum is a g-d send for me and I really appreciate it. Regards. |
