| Author | Message | ||
     Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 103 Registered: 3-2018 |
This is an information only post. Ive done it all - all the interior and exterior lights are now LED - except for the headlights. They will be next. The light is much brighter throughout - it looks really good. Most were from ebay or Jaycar. Repco, Autobarn, Supercheap, R&E and Bursons didnt have much of anything LED wise. This is what i used - Boot light - while still not entirely ideal, its a considerable improvement. 12V BA9S LED Light 5050-SMD Bayonet Interior Globe T4W 1895 White It was suggested that if i wanted to light up the boot area then to install 2 further LEDs on each side of the boot that operate on the same boot light circuit. Interior roof lights - each light had 2 bulbs - The vanity/map lights are BA9S as well. The saloon lights were festoon type bulbs - 36mm. Both upgraded to LED's. The under bonnet light was also a festoon type but larger than the saloon lights - 42mm from memory - but possibly larger. Its LED now with a much better light. I put in a reverse camera - nothing terribly flash so i wanted brighter reverse lights. These work a treat - BA15 size. Philips X-treme Ultinon LED P21W 6000K Its like daytime back there now! I replaced the brake lights with BA15D - D is for Double light (brake/tail light). The front parkers were BA15S bulbs - S is for single light. Obviously you need a dual light for the tail/brake light. The S and D look the same - dont get them mixed up - do the 2 parkers before you open the brake light box! Be careful with the pin placements on the bulbs - my brake light bulbs had locating pins that, although across the bulb they are directly opposite, were offset from the base to each other. The indicators are a bit harder. The side indicators on each front panel are BA9S size. The front and rear indicators BA15S size BUT you cant use a normal LED in these positions because they flash. LEDs take fraction of a second to illuminate and a fraction of a second to turn off. If you use a standard LED, all you seem to get is glow of differing brightness. So you need to find actual indicator LED bulbs for them - these go on an off instantly and work better as indicators. They are a better quality light i think so cost a bit more. T10 wedges. These are used for the gauge lights and door lights. I replaced all the wedges with these LED T10 wedges - including the 2 indicator lights inside the speedo. The 4 door lights (the red circle reflectors) are also white T10 wedges. The clearance lights - the white/clear on the front and red at the back on each side of the car - T10 wedges as well, white bulbs. Gauges - again T10 wedges I used blue LED's as opposed to white for the dash and instrument lights - it gives a much nicer interior glow at night. A word of caution on wedges. They can be put in the wrong way - so if you find they dont work instantly, remove it and turn it over and put it back in. Something to do with the direction of the current or something - either way its not important, just be aware that this can happen. My blue dash high beam indicator was another small baton globe. It turns out to be a BA7 size so i used one these - LED Lucas 12V BA7s Warning Dash Instrument Gauge. Its clear but its behind a coloured lens so no issue. The 2 lights inside the start switchbox - the GEN and OIL lights. They are E10 screw bulbs and replaced both of those globes with LED's. Clear globes as they are behind a coloured lens. The E5 mini Edison screw dash bulbs. From all reports they were going to be difficult to find. This place was suggested from previous posts - https://www.ledlight.com/e5-midget-round-1-led-multiple-voltage.aspx. They didnt have blue - white only. But when I asked for an estimate, they quoted $USD 179 (I kid you not) for mailing 12 of these tiny, little mini globes to Australia. I found these at ledlight.com.tw - company called Aidlite Co. Ltd. Their product ID is LBT5E5-1B-12V. The B is for blue, they come in a number of colours. I bought 20 - cost including shipping was $USD 47. These mini bulbs are also the gear selector light - so i replaced it with one of these blue bulbs and I like it. They fit in the panel light sockets and they work fine with a nice blue glow. One of my red circle reflector door lights was shorting out and had crappy end wiring. So i replaced the holder with this standard T10 wedge holder - 158-332 MG MGB PUSH-IN TYPE DASH BULB HOLDER This holder would be capable of replacing gauge lights as well if you are having problems with the connectors. I did that with the AMP gauge - replaced the whole holder. I would think this holder would be suitable to replace all the T10 wedges around the car if required. The auto suppliers have T10 wedge holders cheap- but they wont fit into the backs of gauges - i found these holders arent suitable for the car. The only lights i havent done are the 2 rear number plate lights. They are both but havent figured out how to get them out. Ill do these 2 another day - when i do the headlights i think. There may be one or 2 others that ive missed - but i think ive got the bulk of it here. I wont post photos yet - im still a few weeks away from being finished with my modifications. But i just wanted to post here what i found to help those who may chose to follow. Cheers GP PS - F!#&k me! What is it with all these tiny bloody screws all through the car! Summary of LEDs used T10 Wedges - clear - 10 T10 wedges - blue - 5 E5 mini bulbs - blue - 6 E10 - clear - 2 36mm festoon - clear - 6 42mm festoon - clear - 1 BA9 - clear - 6 BA7 - clear - 1 BA15 - S - clear - 8 BA15 - D - clear - 2 | ||
| P. Eng. Pierre Linh Raoul New User Username: thrasher Post Number: 8 Registered: 5-2018 |
post is useless without pictures ;) | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 104 Registered: 3-2018 |
lol harsh! | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 1718 Registered: 4-2009 |
Your efforts are much appreciated Glen. This will help a lot of people going forward. Indeed photos would be a fantastic enhancement if possible. Thanks for taking the time to do this write up. Omar | ||
| Jim Walters Prolific User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 205 Registered: 1-2014 |
Glen's post would only be useless to someone who cannot read plain English. All the information one needs to change the bulbs on an Shadow to LED's has been posted by Glen. Wink or no wink that's an insulting comment to someone who has taken the time to gather and document the information. Thanks Glen for taking the time to research and post your results. SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Grand Master Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 962 Registered: 4-2015 |
Glen... Yes. Congratulations for the effort. and the detail. Frankly I never thought there were so many! Christian | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 105 Registered: 3-2018 |
thanks guys. I will put up photos but the dash is still pulled apart - interior photos wont come out any good until its all put back together. Ive attached a few here for now. Its hard to really tell but i assure you these lights are bright!  \popjpeg{33615,festoon}      | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 106 Registered: 3-2018 |
And for those of you who truly 'examine' photos, comments are not permitted on - 1 - my choice of footwear 2 - the colour of my legs 3 - the state of my garage | ||
| Mark Aldridge Grand Master Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 578 Registered: 10-2008 |
Thanks Glenn, I have been considering converting my Shadow1. I now have a purchasing list without taking the car to pieces first. Mark  | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 107 Registered: 3-2018 |
Its a pretty good guide to what you will need. Im sure people are aware that the cars differ. The highbeam light for example might be in the speedo - in which case the bulb will probably be different. Also, i dont have the centre console light under the dash roll that i have seen in some cars. Theres my caveat. | ||
| P. Eng. Pierre Linh Raoul New User Username: thrasher Post Number: 9 Registered: 5-2018 |
Thanks Glen - sorry did not mean to sound "harsh"...hence the wink (Jim) Super cool is all i can say! and what a project...must have been quite time consuming, but looks amazing. An upgrade am definitely looking at, as here in London the night falls at 6pm at the moment, so would be super useful to actually see something. | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 109 Registered: 3-2018 |
As i add bits ill keep updating the thread. Glove box - 36mm festoon now LED. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 872 Registered: 11-2015 |
Glen, I went LED with a bunch of lights as well. The under hood and trunk lights are the best and RR would have done it from the factory if LEDs in white were available. I didn't do things like interior lights. I did do the gear position indicator. It was way too bright and had a serious hot spot in the center. I sanded the bulb to make it even more foggy and painted a black dot on the top. It was better, but I never liked the look and eventually went back to tungsten on that as well. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1996 Registered: 9-2004 |
I hate driving with bright dash lights at night, does the dimmer still work. What about the bulb failure warnings, will the system still show a warning failure? | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 574 Registered: 5-2007 |
The dimmer won't work with LEDs but they are not overbright enough to be a problem at night - just a nice blue glow. When I installed mine I changed the Lilliput Edison Screw bulbs (except the gear indicator) to t10 wedges just to get things bright enough to be able to read. Before I did this I was finding it really difficult to see much because the dash was so dim, even with brand new blue plastic covers. Garrath at TK motors tells me that the dash lights on Shadows were fine when new but that even completely rewiring the circuit doesn't seem to brighten them back up when the cars have aged. One of those mysteries I suppose One thing I did do was install an earlier Shadow Panel Light Switch with a "push/pull" function as well as rotary. This enables me to keep the peripheral console lights off most of the time as I find them distracting on black unlit country roads. LEDs can usually be dimmed only through the earth circuit - which needs to feed back to the switch. However Autometer does makes a gauge dimmer which doesn't require this. I don't know if/how it works with ordinary bulbs - perhaps there's a circuit inside their gauges I don't know about. https://www.enginemaster.com.au/autometer-led-lighted-gauge-dimmer-constant-circui Next time I have a spare $100 I'll buy one to test it out on the Shadow circuit - unless someone else with more readies would like to do it first? One bulb I reverted back to incandescent was the High/Low beam indicator. LEDs are dangerous if focused directly on the retina - which this one definitely is (at least in my case where I need the seat to be); I found it burned spots in my eyes in very short order. | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 110 Registered: 3-2018 |
The dimmer switch does work on and off - i cant see any difference in dimming it up or down. I can make any comment on the warning lights - i simply dont know. | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 575 Registered: 5-2007 |
Glenn - one of the lights in the centre cluster dash squares tells you if a brake light has failed. Some cheap LED brake lights trigger it because the current draw is so low that the system reads it as zero. This problem can be solved (I've read) by inserting a resistor before the positive feed to the LED. Most modern quality LED globes already have this resistor inside anyway to make them work with CANBUS. | ||
| Martin Taylor Prolific User Username: martin_taylor Post Number: 148 Registered: 7-2013 |
Jeff, you can dim the LED’s via the feed or ground circuit, you can change the resistor to a higher value on the back of the dimmer if you want it to work, however you would have to calcaulate the number of LED’s and total current in order to work out the correct value for the right volt drop. A better way is with an adjustable regulator, a PWM controller as suggested or go simple with several diodes in series as each one drops 0.6v each so five diodes will drop 3v causing that dim glow that shadows are famous for. | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 112 Registered: 3-2018 |
Im happy to give a PWM a try - i can see a few on ebay for a couple of $. Given the amount of use it will probably get, i dont see the need for the suggested $USD 40 one. I dont know about resistance, amps etc etc - so this is one of the ones ive looked at - it appears it may have the same dimmer switch column to go through the dash and connect to the original dial. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DC-5A-Motor-PWM-Speed-Controller-3V-35V-Speed-Control-Switch-LED-Dimmer-ST-/172255836155 But i dont know if it is suitable. This has more details and similar shaft. https://www.ebay.com/itm/PWM-dimmer-On-Off-switch-for-12v-DC-LED-lights-6-amp-72-watts-capacity-no-hum/132832929574?hash=item1eed75a726:g:-mYAAOSwdxZbHQdb:rk:24:pf:0&vxp=mtr Anyone offer suggestions? | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 576 Registered: 5-2007 |
Ah - so the Autometer version is just a brand name version of these? PWMs work by ultra rapid on/off pulsing creating the effect of dimness on the human eye. The older I get the more I forget what I once knew - or at least had an inkling about. I'll get a cheap one too Glenn because I want to test it on my current circuit which has all LEDs plus one lilliput incandescent to see what happens to the incandescent - probably rapid burnout. It's been a few years but last time I looked the Lilliput Edison range of LEDs didn't include any with wide-angle light spread. I must check out what's come up since. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2669 Registered: 6-2009 |
By the way, definitely look at the color temperature of the LEDs you're getting if you want something that "looks incandescent." I see that Glen has used (this is not a criticism, just an observation) a number of them with 5000K or higher color temperature, which is a really, really cold blue-white and also appears to be really, really bright. I don't mind this color temperature for, say, the trunk/boot light, or the lights on the exterior, but really don't like it in the cabin or on the dash (though if you go with the blue tinted LEDs color temperature becomes irrelevant, really). The 3000-3500K range looks more like your typical incandescent light output. I don't like overly bright lighting at night, but even on at full brightness the amount of light put out in the SY cars is quite dim to me, particularly in comparison to modern counterparts. When I redid the dash in SRH33576 I omitted the blue entirely because I wanted more light. I have a collection of those little blue "light condoms" somewhere in my parts collection that I purchased for the project before doing it. Brian | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1997 Registered: 9-2004 |
LED dash etc lights are a no go for me. Night driving one can turn the whole lot off, but most night time driving is with the dimmer switch on dim. Picture of the speedo in the bright position IMO to bright[sun glasses may help!  And the dim setting that's better!  Also the cigar lighter and the radio clock etc all dim by the dimmer switch low setting. Nice to have the bonnet festoon bulb in use with the extra current to help the original switch contacts! | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 113 Registered: 3-2018 |
For those who follow - this company has asked that i put up their LED light link. Im happy with their service so im happy to put this up for consideration. https://aidlite.en.taiwantrade.com/product-catalog/all-products.html | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 114 Registered: 3-2018 |
The 10 dashboard warning lights are all T10 wedges. | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 115 Registered: 3-2018 |
Real Perdy!  To test all the lights - per a previous post, turn the car off - put it in D and turn the ignition and try to start the car. It wont start but all the lights come on! | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 875 Registered: 11-2015 |
PWM controller and a caution. I'm sitting in a car in line at the dump so this will be lean, but. Arduino microcontrollets are $3 and could easily contrl all your dadh lights and cost $3. But At "low" settings a shutter effect is visible when one turns ones head left to right across pwm dimmed leds. You can see this effect with some cheaper led tail light technologies. Glen, The warning lights look great! | ||
| Glen Poolen Prolific User Username: wgipps Post Number: 118 Registered: 3-2018 |
The auto-elec worked his magic the other day - all my lights inside and out are working, my new gauges are wired up. It turns out the dimmer does work with the LED's but it is an ever so light visible adjustment over a very short turn on the dial. As per a previous post, im happy to be able to turn the interior lights on and off so i wont be taking any more action with the lights. |
