| Author |
Message |
    
Lee Hutchinson (132.185.132.12)
| | Posted on Sunday, 15 December, 2002 - 03:05 am: |    |
Does anyone know if there's a conversion for this type of ignition system. I've heard that it's not too reliable? Plus can you upgrade the coil to say a "sports coil" for greater output, and thus hopefully greater reliability. |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.138)
| | Posted on Monday, 16 December, 2002 - 07:14 pm: | |
Lee
It would be helpful to know where you are.There are a number of 'drop-in' systems you can use in Australia. It is true that the Factory have had an unhappy experience with their selected fitting and if I had one of these cars I would be thinking about getting a a local setup in the event of trouble. A spark is a spark is a spark! As to the coil, the main enemy here is heat. I would be taking the recommendation of whomever supplies the electronic unit and at the same time check the condition of the ballast resistor. |
Lee Hutchinson (132.185.240.12)
| | Posted on Monday, 23 December, 2002 - 10:25 pm: | |
Thanks Bill,
I'm in the UK, just logged in at work! I have seen a system in the US that's designed as an optical trigger system for the Lucas Distributor. As for the coil Lucas do a sports coil without a balast resistor, but I'm unsure if this would work. |
Bob (62.7.5.157)
| | Posted on Saturday, 28 December, 2002 - 05:33 am: | |
Bill
your comment that a spark is a spark is very true. Because sometimes the way people talk about ignition systems it is as though the spark is what makes the power not the burning of petrol.
All the spark has to do is set the fuel alight. The low reving nature of the RR V8 means there is no advantage in going really high tech-- you just need a fat spark at the right time.
I would fit an after market hall effect magnetic type to your exsisting dizzy such as Ignitor from Aldon or Magnetronic from Lumenition.
Both of these are contained within the dizzy with no exterior black box.
These system do not produce increased spark power.
There are 2 types of kit.
ballast and non ballast
Use the coil recommended by the kit and you will have no further problems. |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.138)
| | Posted on Saturday, 28 December, 2002 - 08:24 am: | |
Bob Thanks for that. It is an area I have yet to face. But I am convinced that electronic is the way to go for smooth running reliability and economy. I have an S2 which I am re-building and that is certainly going to be converted or I will install a complete new distributor. This model incidentally uses a uniqe distributor cap with side entry terminals. I have a friend with a similar model and someone has fitted a top entry cap but I am unable to identify it. Can anyone help please? |
Lee Hutchinson (132.185.240.13)
| | Posted on Saturday, 28 December, 2002 - 08:35 am: | |
Thanks Chaps,
Lumenition is available here in the UK. I think I will find out more about their system. |
Bob (213.1.195.110)
| | Posted on Sunday, 29 December, 2002 - 06:57 am: | |
Bill
The obvious choice to try would be the Shadow 1 Dizzy cap. Or Rover V8 early--P5B Diamler 250 and Major.
Maybe you could use an electronic dizzy from an SD1 or other V8
But my choice would be the hall effect type in the original body because there are no signs from the outside that the dizzy is electronic.
Hence extra brownie points when you try to sell.
Incidently my Shadow 1 has done 114,000 miles with no problems using good olde points.
I have replaced them twice the condenser is now 16 years old
I would suggest that you may want to try the engine with the standard system first. The advantages of electronic ignition as in the more power and ecomony bit are often overstated.
This is because the engine is designed/tuned with the standard ignition systems that were available at the time.
In other words the engine will not find any advantage in the electronics.
However one advantage that I have found with full electronic systems is that the mechanical load of the points is removed from the dizzy thus giving the bearings an easier time and hopefully reducing timing scatter caused by general dizzy wear.
If you have a worn dizzy then a simple hall effect trigger will help the engine run smoother.
But there are limits of what you can get away with.
When first setting up the timing, check with a strobe every cylinder. They should be 45 degrees apart. If not you have timing scatter.
I hope this gives you food for thought and good luck with your Cloud. |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.138)
| | Posted on Sunday, 29 December, 2002 - 09:58 am: | |
Bob Many thanks for that advice. Do you know that the distributor caps you mention will fit the body? I confess that I have never tried to find an alternative cap for any distributor and given that I am 300K from the nearest agent making a comparison is not easy.
Interesting your experience with Shadow distributors. Although not my personal experience these units do not have a good reputation here. The main problem is bearing wear and finding replacement shaft bushes as I understand it. Fortunately my S2 has only done a little over 100K miles so there is little wear. Perhaps I should explain. I have had the car for 17 years in which time it has covered some 4000 miles. The problem was the gearbox which would lose drive in 1st when hot. This I discovered was a weirdly worn front pump which I was able to replace. I hate getting those boxes out given their weight and size so I decided to lift the engine out as well. That has been no problem other than a clattering tappet when cold and a very slight staining at the weep holes. Professional advice was if you have the thing out strip it and reseal it at least. Well then the wiring started screaming at me - a common problem with the waxed colour coding and only peeling in the engine compartment! The 'professionals' (some of them) clip the wires behind the bulkhead, add on new wire and re-connect. The thought of 150 joints was more than I wished to contemplate so I reefed all seven looms out of the car and had them re-made. One has gone back and two years have elapsed. Tomorrow I start again!!!!
Anyway back to the distributor, Since I would have severe digestive problem paying some $400 for a new cap (the present one seems Ok but time will catch up with it)and as points are also getting into the Crown Jewells category, the idea of electronic conversion and a bodgy cap appeals greatly. As to testing I have a man who has all these testing things and I will draw your remarks to him when I go in to get the new setup looked at. But it won't be next week you will understand.
Best wishes for the new year. |
richard treacy (217.162.169.158)
| | Posted on Monday, 30 December, 2002 - 03:23 am: | |
Bill,
Try a Shadow cap for size. Lucas in Fyshwick and Lee and Thomas sell them, same as a Rover V8. I bought one for our T-Series over the counter a few years ago in Fyshwick.
I must admit to being unfussed about optical or Hall Effect ignition systems as a retrofit, and would stick to points unless you intend to travel high mileages. Have you ever really suffered with your S2, or with the Silver Dawn or R-Type before it ? We have never had any trouble with the R-Type and T-Series to this day which would have been solved by Lumenition or anything else. Those twin, ultra complex, microprocessor-controlled dizzies on my Turbo R are fascinating, but you can't fix them on the roadside with a points file and a new $10 coil from the local garage. I fitted a Hall Effect breakerless system to my old Holden years ago and couldn't tell the difference. I threw it away when it failed, and fortunately had the old points kit in the spare tyre room as I was on the south coast. OK, they are better now, but why change ? This was never a weak point of our cars afterall.
Just a thought.
RT. |
richard treacy (217.162.169.158)
| | Posted on Monday, 30 December, 2002 - 03:47 am: | |
Woops, I just remembered that S2s have a Delco-Remy distributor. Try Chevrolet etc, but a genuine one costs around A$120 from Euröpe plus post by mail order. Points cost $100 a set, and a Lumenition conversion kit A$320 or less. |
Bill Coburn (203.51.30.138)
| | Posted on Monday, 30 December, 2002 - 08:29 am: | |
Richard/
Thanks I must confess that I have been impressed with the latest whizbang technology without knowing what I was looking at. If your cap price is right I would stick to original - I was told they are up about $500 each which is of course outrageous. Any way I have to get the old girl rewired first.
Cheers |
Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer
Post Number: 1076
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, 07 January, 2017 - 09:18 am: | |
Later years and now this company will sell the original thing with mods for better lasting performance.
http://www.reopus.co.uk/comparison.html
New Zealand as well! |
Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp
Post Number: 2189
Registered: 6-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, 07 January, 2017 - 10:13 am: | |
But not for the Rolls-Royce V8. Here's the e-mail response I received from Dave Curry of ReOpus when I was inquiring in February 2015, shortly after my Christmas 2014 FTP:
----------------------------------------
I had a brief look at some images of the V8 Rolls Royce and I decided that there the market would not justify the investment and time to manufacture a replacement.
The only information on Ballast resistor blocks is on my website.
I also found that 123 make a replacement distributor for the Rolls Royce V8. Limora in Europe have them available the contact details are on my website.
Thank you for your information and sending the photos.
Kind Regards
Dave Curry
REOPUS
REOPUS Engineering Ltd
Sent from my iPad |
Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer
Post Number: 1077
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, 07 January, 2017 - 04:46 pm: | |
Could always just fit the replacement part to your original distributor if you have to, easy to fit and cheap as chips.
Link:http://www.flyingspares.com/shop/rolls-royce-spirit-spur-bentley-turbo-mulsanne/ignition/distributor/cap-rotor/ignition-module-cd5904sxr.html |
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