| Author | Message | ||
     Carl Jensen Frequent User Username: carl_jensen Post Number: 54 Registered: 2-2005 |
Hello. Does anyone know what the switch is for on this lower temperature flap actuator? It is wired into the #4 connector on the actuator motor and is turned on/off as the spindle(?) goes around when the unit is operating. I can't tell if it is working correctly and don't see this mentioned in the service manual. Thanks, Carl Jensen. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1979 Registered: 6-2006 |
Can you post a photo of what it is you're asking about. Cheers. | ||
| Jeff Young Grand Master Username: jeyjey Post Number: 363 Registered: 10-2010 |
Those tell the motor how far to go. Power is applied to one of them, and each of them has a gap at a certain place, and the motor runs until it hits that gap. | ||
| Carl Jensen Frequent User Username: carl_jensen Post Number: 55 Registered: 2-2005 |
Thanks Paul and Jeff. Don't know why, but I am having trouble posting the picture. Sorry. Jeff, thanks for solving the mystery. The actuator does not appear to be stopping so I will try another actuator, check the switch, etc. I really appreciate your comment. Carl | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1980 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Carl, If you take the plug off you will probably find that there is feed to two terminals. It will never stop in that case. You need to check the tiny diodes at the bottom of the fuse box and also check that no other actuator is seized or stuck because whatever it is operating is seized. (heater tap, flap, Suction throttling valve. etc) You can pull the connectors off the other actuators and see if the one you're working on stops. Check the connectors are correctly fitted on the heater switches. (if you think they have been disturbed) As you saw - even with one correct feed, the other terminals become live whilst the motor is turning. So if one is jammed other wires will get a feed when it isn't supposed to. Can't remember off the top of my head which is paired to lower temp flap but a wiring diagram should help. I put check diodes first because they are easy and fail. It's a great system when it's working well. If you get squealing mice you can lubricate the bushes. . . if you can get the actuators off of course! Have fun :D | ||
| Carl Jensen Frequent User Username: carl_jensen Post Number: 56 Registered: 2-2005 |
The repairs are pretty much complete, and what a saga. It appears that one of the female connections to the heater/ac switch (acu) was not snug so I had to take a tiny screwdriver and slightly bend the female contacts so they would seat more securely on the male contacts. Another problem was that the lower temperature flap was off its hinges so I had to remove the heater matrix and control box to fix that. Then I saw that the heater matrix had some tiny leaks so that is being repaired. All diodes were good although I had previously missed seeing the diode on the back of the heater/ac switch and the diode that was by the lower temperature actuator. Then I found a couple of very weak actuators elsewhere in the system. Thank goodness I am retired and had the time to really go through the system. And thanks again to Paul and Jeff for your helpful advice. Carl | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 2005 Registered: 6-2006 |
Well done Carl. Nothing like doing a quick 10 min job on a a RR is there!!  |
