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Martyn Grattage
New User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 7
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 02:49 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I posted a number of questions last week.

I think I can consolidate most of them into this.

This would be help with running too rich.

Hi I bought my 1976 Silver Shadow very recently - SRH24545 - I Don't know the Month - Can I find that out.?

The main issues as far as I can tell are Running way too rich - and an Oil leak

I am going start with the running rich first

When I start her there are huge Black carbon deposits all over the wall and toolbox and a pool of Petrol on the floor by the exhaust

When I first looked under the bonnet

I noticed Vacuum Pipes Missing or just Perished in Place Some weren't sitting properly so tried to put them where I thought they should go.

I have bought some screw clips and tubing am going to try to sort it out.

I reconnected a tube that I assumed connected to a long metal connector right in the m middle of the engine.??†

An old pipe in my hanf going from the the engine Tee piece up to nowhere on mine†

Also there is no tube the one side of the round black diaphragm†



Wiring Issue:

Clearly visible was two wires and poor spade joins and taping†

Is it a sensor of some kind right in the middle..??? The wires and connections appear to be ok.†

More importantly There is two wires right next to this sensor missing connections†

One is an old and large purposeful looking wire.†
The other wire appears to go into the loom by the other sensor lead†

So any advice on where or how it should be.†

Also any advice on what symptoms this would create not connected.?


Also The screw in lids on top of the carbs are both loose and have been cable tied closed by the previous owner.

I have loads of pictures and will try to post then.

I would appreciate anyone's help.

Sliver Shadow Vacuum and Wires



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Martyn Grattage
New User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 8
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 02:54 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi I am sorry I have lots of pictures but cant seem to upload them very well.
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 2725
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 04:10 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Martyn,

You are doing fine and the first time you post images is always traumatic until you learn the basic rules.

The answer to your trauma to give the outcome I achieved by editing your post is very simple as below:

1. When you finish typing text and want to insert a photo, just use the ENTER key twice and then type the image command [back slashimage{...}].

2. When posting multiple images with titles; use the ENTER key twice then type the title before using the ENTER key twice and then typing the image command.

3. If you are posting images without titles, just use the ENTER key twice between each image command line.

4. If you make a mistake and you have already posted your message, don't worry - just leave it " "as-is" and I will fix it for you as I did for your post above.

Not a problem for me as I am only too happy to help and you will soon learn the procedure by trial and error.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1950
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 07:23 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I'm on my mobile so will have to revisit. . . Can't make out the photos.

When I start her there are huge Black carbon deposits all over the wall and toolbox and a pool of Petrol on the floor by the exhaust.


I doubt it is petrol at the exhaust, condensation is more likely. These cars are very rich from cold and are designed to start and drive off immediately. Soot is a common emmision if started a few times and not driven.

Make sure your choke flap is working freely though. And that it fully opens once warm.

Good luck with her :-)
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Martyn Grattage
New User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 9
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 09:17 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks so much for your response Paul

\I am figuring that she is just normal...ha ha.

Including oil leak...!!

Thanks again

Martyn
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Martyn Grattage
New User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 10
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 09:59 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I am pretty sure that itís petrol as it smells so fumy nd evaporates very quickly
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 11
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 10:02 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

so what about the mystery wires

mystery  <BR>wires

mystery  <BR>wires















.
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 12
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 10:13 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I am sorry agin it must be me i cant follow the upload instructions

It keeps trying to be clever but not succeeding

At the risk of being removed from the Forum this has to be the worst Forum I have used.

The amount of times I posted information that has not appeared.

Plus having to put username and password in nultiple times

On mobiile phone ius even harder

Are the instructions for my MAC - I cant follow your imstructions mI am sorryh

Sorry This is supposed to help not be another problem..!!

I wonder even if thsi post appears.
I am going to look elsewhere forhelp in future unless someone can explain to me what is going on.

I feel like a criminal at the moment

Martyn Grattage
0401661077
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 110
Registered: 7-2013
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 10:49 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Martyn
Persevere with the forum, this one has the best information in the world and probably the most helpful and patient participants.
Your choke solenoid appears to be missing and a blanking plate has been fitted. It is only used for a few seconds in really cold climate to stop the choke flapping.
They do start rich as Paul stated but you may have a sunk float in one of the carburettors.
Start the car, run it until warm and check the choke is fully off, lever pointing to two oíclock position.
Lift the pin under one carb and check it still idles on the other carb although a few hundred rpm slower, then do the same test on the other carb, this will tell you if they are both running and roughly set the same.
The vacuum pipes need to be right or it may not idle or will suck fuel from the float chambers into the intake, download the manual from the files section and study the diagrams in the emission section.
The system applies a partial vacuum to the float chambers to lean the mixture at partial load, if the air breather filter is blocked it will suck fuel directly into the intake.
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 111
Registered: 7-2013
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 10:51 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The vacuum pipe in your hand looks like the feed to the cruise control. This connects to the intake just under the large intake duct piping near the B2 cylinder
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 112
Registered: 7-2013
Posted on Thursday, 16 November, 2017 - 10:54 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The last picture is the fuel weakener intake filter, if this is working correctly the engine should stall from idle if you block it with your finger. The other side of this filter connects to a T pipe that goes to the float bowls on both carbs
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 1625
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Friday, 17 November, 2017 - 12:19 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Martyn, Don't give up it took me ages when I first started posting pictures.

Back to your probs, Have you checked for the vac advance hose being connected.
pix below.



The cruise control vac on my car seems alot shorter than the hose shown in martyns car.


I have a block connector that has never been connected thought it was for testing units.



Can't think why the carbs have cable ties round them unless they have been put there for holding the hoses in place if not routed correctly.



Hope this helps!
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 1626
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Friday, 17 November, 2017 - 03:49 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Martyn, pictures that I put up are the SS11 the SS1 will be different!
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 631
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Friday, 17 November, 2017 - 03:54 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

You might consider simply taking the problem car to an experienced RR-B facility near you and pay the price to have them straighten the engine bay out. Then you can proceed directly to enjoying the car rather than suffering from inability to post messages and photos. Take the easy way out.

P.S. If it is more difficult on a mobile device, I would think that not trying to do so on a mobile device would be the advice. Use desktop or laptop.

.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 2507
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Friday, 17 November, 2017 - 05:18 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

By the way, for anyone who wants their username and password pre-populated for posting purposes (this is old software, after all, so it supports it) go to the "Edit Profile" link under the "Utilities" tree at the left.

You will then be prompted to log in again to edit your profile. If you are using a modern browser like Firefox 57 or similar, you will get a warning that the connection is not secure. It's never been secure, so OK the login anyway with the Log In button.

Click the Preferences Link. Check at least the first checkbox to "Remember my username and password in a cookie". If this is the only box you check the memory will persist if the browser is exited and started up again. If you prefer that it be deleted when you exit the browser, check the second checkbox, "Clear the cookie when I exit my browser." By the way, that second checkbox does not always seem to be honored, as I have it checked, but the last several versions of Firefox are retaining the username and password between times the browser is run, including if I shut the computer down entirely.

I far prefer not having to enter my username and password for each and every post. It also makes life far easier on a mobile device if one chooses to try to post from one.

Brian
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 2726
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 17 November, 2017 - 06:45 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Martyn,

Next time you need to post images, I suggest it may help if you contact me using the forum message facility and I will arrange a suitably timed phone call from myself to you so I can walk you through the posting process plus you can experiment and post in real time whilst I can immediately edit the posts and explain the reason for any necessary corrections plus deleting the content afterwards if necessary.

Our forum software is "old school" but still has advantages over more contemporary forum software in some respects. The reason we continue to persevere with this software is our priceless archive of posts over the years which are readily accessible to members.

Our Administrator has spent many hours trying to find software that will allow our archives to be transferred to new software to be accessed by future users but this has been unsuccessful so far.

I am here to help you in any way relevant to your problems, all you have to do is ask .

Martyn - have just discovered your phone number and will give you a call later today or this evening when I am at my computer.
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 13
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Saturday, 18 November, 2017 - 12:35 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks so much for al the replies
I bought new vacuum hose to put on tomorrow . I didnt realise how bad and perished and un workable the current ones are.
Someone advised me that the vacuum from the engine tee goes to the cruise control which it does before at the start then gthe engine tee - THEN WHERE I am also wondering how to remove the cruise control un it so i can change the vaccuum .hose - Are all these imperial.. What is the consensus on what to do with the wiring just tidy and leave..? Martyn
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Kelly Opfar
Prolific User
Username: kelly_opfar

Post Number: 190
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Saturday, 18 November, 2017 - 06:31 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Martyn, here is a link to a OneDrive file that shows pictures of my '76 parts car SRH24730. There are pics of the engine area before I started dismantling it. I'm sure that at least a couple of your questions can be answered here.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AoM9aFcTDNqOxW8SYM_hiWgAqU3S

Your choke is correct for this year of car. It is not a blanking plate. That is how both of my cars are.

Kelly

BritishToolWorks.com
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 14
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Saturday, 18 November, 2017 - 12:07 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Kelly this looks really helpful.

I have another question - which kind of fittings are on my car for Tool purchase..?

Nothing I have metric or AF fits..?

What size and fitting are they..?

I have the ratchets and extensions etc but not the right size.

Thanks again Martyn
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1849
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Saturday, 18 November, 2017 - 01:46 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Martyn

I found the same problem with certain bolts on my carbs. I found one useful wrench size was 11/32" SAE. The best solution is of course to buy a set of BA spanners.

One of the strangest things I came across was undoing the 3/16" pipe to the master cylinder on my car. The flats of the union nut were in between a 10mm wrench and an 11mm wrench and also between 3/8" and 7/16" SAE wrenches. I tried to buy a 13/32" SAE wrench but none of the local tool shops had one - the range commonly stocked appears to finish at 11/32". Measurements (0.413") proved this nut to be 0BA.
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 113
Registered: 7-2013
Posted on Saturday, 18 November, 2017 - 04:50 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The pipe from the cruise goes to the intake by b2 cylinder, not the T, that is part of the weakener circuit, the T connects between the weakened filter and both carbs, pictures are available in the technical library, also an explanation of all components.
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 15
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Wednesday, 22 November, 2017 - 04:00 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi thanks for everyones input and patience so far.

I have a picture of the thing that is completely missing on mine
Can anyone confirm what it is, and whether I need to replace - it runs of course albeit rich

I have searched the pictures and technical library and still
not 100% happy where the connection from my engine TEE goes to.
Important - This unit pictured has a vacuum connection - Perhaps my engine TEE used to go here.

The Vacuum connections are all hard or missing

But I have bought BA Spanners, new quality hoses and cutter and Molkote and new clamps.

I am really hoping to replace the pipes and connectiopns I can see....and at least be brave enough to start her tomorrow or Friday maybe drive..!

I would appreciate anyones input or suggestions while I am at it it perhaps.

Thanks Martyn\

poppng{29433,}
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 16
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Wednesday, 22 November, 2017 - 04:28 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I mistakenly changed the file name so it didnt appear properly.

Here it is.

Martyn
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 17
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Wednesday, 22 November, 2017 - 04:58 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

and again

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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1955
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Wednesday, 22 November, 2017 - 07:31 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Martyn, It's ages since I've had any full emission cars in. And in the UK it was more often a case of removing it all and blanking off the air tubes where they go into the head ports.

There is a separate section in the manuals on emission control. Have you found that? A supplement I seem to remember??

If you haven't I can try and dig it out later.

Good luck with the start up :D
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 18
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Thursday, 23 November, 2017 - 09:56 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

thanks Paul

I have found the emissions section

Just cant see what i am looking for though

Martyn
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Martyn Grattage
Experienced User
Username: martyngrattage

Post Number: 19
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Saturday, 25 November, 2017 - 09:11 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi I would like some ones advice on how to easily access the cruise control unit to change that vacuum line

Also the vacuum pipe runs from cruise to the engine tee on mine which I am assuming went to the cold start solenoid that I no longer have

Then it goes right to the middle back of the carby and itís really awkward to see let alone replace.

I would like to change this as it is hard and fragile

My question is should it be possible and changeable.

I can obviously pull it off but the issue will be connecting the new one.

Martyn
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 2525
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Sunday, 26 November, 2017 - 09:06 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Martyn,

I can't help much with regard to the Shadow I and exactly where you'll be working for this hose replacement.

I can, however, suggest that if you're replacing vacuum lines you consider using silicone tubing instead of the OEM material. Jon Waples suggested using silicone, or viton (I think), in his excellent book, The Shadow Owners' Companion, and I have never regretted following this advice. Silicone will have an essentially perpetual service life, is incredibly heat resistant, and remains flexible throughout its lifetime.

Brian
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 1646
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, 26 November, 2017 - 08:38 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The OEM vac hoses on both my cars have never failed in any way forty + years, IMO silicone looks sloppy trailing over and round a RR engine.
Engine compartment does run hot, check that the engine not running hot to a cooling system fault.

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