| Author | Message | ||
     Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 175 Registered: 11-2016 |
My clock has stopped working. It is getting power, but stopped a while back. It was working intermittenetly until it then gave up. Anyone had experience in fixing these, or is it a replacement job? Ta | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 563 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick, If it's the kind that has the solenoid wind. Just re-solder the fusible link inside. There is a little fusible alloy between two parts inside that protects the impossibly delicate solenoid wiring. I re-soldered mine with some eutectic tin lead alloy and it works fine now. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 564 Registered: 11-2015 |
http://i46.tinypic.com/snl1eb.jpg | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 565 Registered: 11-2015 |
Here's a good shot of a failed one. http://photobucket.com/gallery/http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/62singlecab/media/IMGP0418_zpszxscl0y6.jpg.html | ||
| Stefan Ihnat Experienced User Username: stefan87 Post Number: 23 Registered: 8-2017 |
I gave the clock to the watchmaker this control did not occur to me :-/ | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 176 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Ross Thank you for that. I will look forward to getting stuck in. A nice winter evening's job! I presume you had to lever the bezel off to get the mechanism out? Thanks | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 567 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick F, I probably had to pry the bezel off if that's what you have to do, but at this point I've pried so many bezels off I don't even remember if I had to on that one. Also, Thinking about it, you could probably just reflow the fusible alloy and have OEM level protection. It should take an evening. | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 177 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Ross Layman talking here  ! Is Euclectic tin solder just normal solder, or something special? And does "reflowing the fusible alloy to have OEM protection" mean replacing the eclectic stuff (which I presume is fusible?) with normal solder? Also, I notice, prising the bezel off is not an issue because the clock sits behind the wood anyway. Thanks Patrick | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2677 Registered: 4-2003 |
Patrick, Eutectic is not a brand name, it is a metallurgical term used to define an alloy of 2 or more metals that has a lower melting point than that of any of the constituent metals and/or any other alloy made from the same metals. Using the eutectic composition for a fuse means the fuse will "fail-safe" at a designated temperature above the maximum ambient temperature likely to be encountered in service but below the temperature likely to damage other components. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 570 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick, As far as eutectic, what David said. As for reflowing, if there was enough of the original fusible alloy left on the little metal pads, one could hold them close with a tweezers and heat them with a soldering iron and the solder would reflow and reconnect the two parts. | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 178 Registered: 11-2016 |
Thank you guys. I am now more learned than I was! | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 580 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick, Did you try and fix it yourself? | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 192 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Guys Thanks for all the advice. Re-soldered and working fine now. Interestingly, what is required is that the little copper eye in the picture is pushed, against it's slight springiness, against the connection and soldered. When/if the solder/unit overheats, the solder will melt and the copper eye will spring away from the connection thus saving the coil from burning out. Lovely! |
