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Patrick Francis
Prolific User
Username: jackpot

Post Number: 162
Registered: 11-2016
Posted on Saturday, 02 September, 2017 - 08:33 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

SRH 17968 Shadow 1

I am planning to remove the wooden facia in front of the steering wheel to service my instrument lights etc.

Whilst the facia is off, I am considering connecting the ignition/light switch so that the lights only come on if the ignition is on.

I have never seen the setup behind the ignition switch, but I presume it would entail feeding the light switch from the switched positive of the ignition switch?

I am considering this because I have forgotten to switch the lights off on various occasions - mainly during the day- which has resulted in a flat battery.

I also drive a Fiat Multipla which has this feature, and I have never encountered a reason not to have the lights switched in this way.

Any thoughts?
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Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 1506
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Saturday, 02 September, 2017 - 09:51 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Pat,

I am also careless with lights etc whilst engine not running.

You may be able to do this via the fuse box.

The amps of the total lighting load is a lot so would suggest a 60 amp relay be fitted. That way any live with ignition on could be used across the relay coil for switching.

My car has led front side lights which come on with the ignition.

To stop the flat battery problem I have this mini boost start thingy that will also charge a mobile phone or lap top.

The feed for the lights will be brown in colour.

My car is 17668 and will be very much like yours.

I like the Fiat Multipla, and considered it as a replacement for my Jeep, but the Jeep refuses to die. I have with drawn servicing but it still keeps going.

Forgot, no parking lamps function.
No body expects parked cars to be lit nowadays and I don't think its a legal requirement.
However on unlit streets it could be a bit dodgy.
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ross kowalski
Grand Master
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 517
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Saturday, 02 September, 2017 - 11:33 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick F,

Like Robert said, you want to do that with a relay.

You connect to some wire that is live with the ignition on. I think it could even be the wire to the ignition itself as the relay is only 1/10th amp or so to activate.

you run this wire to one of the coil terminals on the relay and the other coil terminal to earth. A lot of automotive relays call these coil terminals 85 and 86 right on the relay. You can find pinouts to most relays on the internet.

After it is wired, turn on the ignition and hear the relay click and make sure whatever you hooked the coil of the relay to is not going to blow a fuse.

Then it's a simple matter of taking the circuit that powers the headlights and run it through the power terminals of the relay. On a lot of standard relays it's pins 87 and 30 but again there are a tone of diagrams on the internet of nearly all relays.

I think the extra capacity of a 60 amp relay as Robert mentioned is good insurance, but it will take slightly more current to keep it operating.
You don't need need a relay with that much capacity, but better to have a big relay cooly loafing at it's job than one that runs hot and melts it's self.

take some pics or make a diagram for the general good when you are working.

Cheers.
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Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 1507
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Sunday, 03 September, 2017 - 02:41 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Or 2 30 amp relays in parallel.

The relay coils generally load at about 30 milliamps, so nothing to worry about.
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1768
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 03 September, 2017 - 05:53 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

There are some kits available which sound a buzzer if they detect the ignition circuit is not loaded but the headlamp circuit is. The advantage is they can be wired in to the fuse box, negating the need to remove the top roll and cutting wires.
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Patrick Francis
Prolific User
Username: jackpot

Post Number: 163
Registered: 11-2016
Posted on Monday, 04 September, 2017 - 04:19 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you all as always. Hadn't thought of Geoff's suggestion. Hmmm sound like an easier option!
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Carl Heydon
Prolific User
Username: car

Post Number: 139
Registered: 2-2004
Posted on Monday, 04 September, 2017 - 06:56 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I have a buzzer under the fuse box. One wire to the headlight fuse and one to a fuse powered with the ignition on. 5 mins....Voila!
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1769
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Monday, 04 September, 2017 - 07:09 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Carl

Can you remember which kit you used, or was the device already fitted when you bought the car.

Geoff
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Patrick Francis
Prolific User
Username: jackpot

Post Number: 164
Registered: 11-2016
Posted on Monday, 04 September, 2017 - 08:48 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just seen them on ebay and all sorts. I have ordered two and will let you all know how they work once installed.
Robert - I love my multipla. It is one of the original ugly (beautiful) ones and is quirky to an extreme.
It has the diesel JTD engine in it that powered so many cars successfully including some Alfas.
A lot of it is a bit of a compromise, but great for me.
Also you can only open the boot with the key, or from the inside button. This apparently came about due to the many incidents of theft at traffic lights from the boot of peoples cars in Italy!

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