| Author | Message | ||
     Miguel A. Garcia Experienced User Username: magarcia Post Number: 23 Registered: 3-2005 |
I am looking for the best suitable sparkplugs for SRH3430, wich is a 6250cc. engine. I am using now uleaded 95 octane fuel, and really, it goes really fine. I feel it goes better that when i used leaded 98 octanes fuel (wich now is not available in Spain).What i have found that the temperature of the coolant goes a little higher than before (is still fresh weather here... not like the 45ºC in June or July..). In the owner´s book wich fortunately i have, is says that the right sparkplugs are Champion N.14.Y with a gap of 0.635 mm. After reading and searching here in the forum and in the NGK site, i think that the most suitable reference available today would be the BP5ES wich mantains a 0.6 gap. The new iridium BPR5EIX would be the equivalence of this reference? The BPR4EVX with 0.9 gap is recommended in some posts in this forum, but really, i am confused about the gap meassures.. Does it not mind? After all this confusion in my mind, comes more... whats about the temperature of the spark plug? using unleaded 95 Octanes... what would be better a hot or a cold one? I think that reference grades of 4 or 5 would be nice... or would be better hotter? Does it affect to the working temperature inside the motor and to the cooolant water? Please, masters here... any opinion to open my confused? Sorry for this may be begginer question... regards. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 384 Registered: 9-2004 |
Miguel, Keep it simple,fit NGK BP5ES and gap to 25in or 0.60mm. They will cope with your climate temp. Put more updated plats ect,yes they will last longer[years] but if the plugs are left in for the longer duration in the old alloy heads you may have real probs removing them. If the old girl is running on the hot side do check your dwell and advance curves. also the carbs co. | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 11 Registered: 2-2005 |
Hello Patrick, my SRH8685 runs hotter since bringing her to Greece a year ago and doing a major service. In 20 degrees ambient temperature and stuck in traffic(1 hour stop and go traffic and A/C on) the needle will creep up to the end of the solid white line. Last summer I drove the car with the needle stuck to the HOT position repeatedly. The infrared thermometer never exceeded 92 on the thermostat housing. Question is, to what extent can the dwell, advance curves and carb. adjustment affect the operating temperature? I use NGK BP5ES and 100 octane unleaded with a lead substitute added by me. | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 190 Registered: 8-2003 |
John; Please do not take this comment wrong, I am asking out of curiosity. Why are you adding a lead substitute in your fuel? Best regards, Bill | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 12 Registered: 2-2005 |
Bill; from what I understand, the use of unleaded fuel in a non catalyst equipped car is a no-no for environmental reasons. I therefore use lead in the fuel, to minimize the adverse effects of the old girl's "breath". Plus the fact that lead "sweetens" the valve seats, albeit their design which will keep them happy on a lead free diet. Regards, John | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 192 Registered: 8-2003 |
John; I must admit I have never heard of the environmental reason before. I thought the whole reason we (US) went to unleaded fuel in 1974 was to help the environment. Well I guess governments and scientists can never make up their minds. Of course today we have these additive fuels that save 11% on emissions but cause the vehicle to burn 22% more fuel yet they say we are saving the environment.  On the valve issue I have had many pre 74 vehicles (admitted no RR/B’s) and have run them all on unleaded without any problems. SRE23726 is a ’76 and has a cat so of course she has always had unleaded. On this point I have to question the cost to benefit factor and wonder if adding the lead is worth the money. Best regards, Bill | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 395 Registered: 9-2004 |
John A.The more advance you can get out of a engine by the correct timing set up etc the effect is cooler running. Are you sure in Greece the unleaded is 100 octane. The same applies to the setting up of the carbs, they should be ajusted on the richer side which will have cooler running effect on the engine. If the thermostat is giving up the water is not circulating through the system correctly when idleing in stop go traffic. I have old cars running unleaded with cast iron heads no probs. They just had pool petrol in there day lower octane and still coped with the fast turn of speed without so many restrictions as todays. | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 13 Registered: 2-2005 |
Patrick; the pumps state 100 octane. The price (0.98-1.10 euro per liter) is 100 octane. But then this is Greece, and I am sure that you don't always get "your moneys worth". There are daily cases of mixing diesel, unleaded regular and leaded gas by the gas stations. The carbs are on the rich side. Thermostat is brand new, same problem occured when the car had no thermostat for a couple of months, although at a slower rate of temperature increase. Must be the radiator that needs a cleaning. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 396 Registered: 9-2004 |
John A,Not necessarily how about the dwell and timing have you checked them? Let me know your figures. | ||
| Miguel A. Garcia Experienced User Username: magarcia Post Number: 30 Registered: 3-2005 |
Hi John. I am using unleaded 95 octanes in Spain, and the car goes really fine. For the High temps in summer (Spain is as hot as Greece i bet) may be a supletory electric fan, would help.... what do you think? | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 14 Registered: 2-2005 |
Patrick; I will get back with the figures ASAP Miguel; the radiator is SO big and the angle and size of the blades such, that I doubt that an electric fan would help. But even if it did, for the sake of originality I would not install it. Anyway, the temp. gauge has a mind of its own. Actual engine/coolant temp never exceeds 92 degrees and by that time the gauge is stuck full right. Wish I had an ammeter in its place. My car is a British market car, high compresion. 100 octane is indicated on the filler neck. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 399 Registered: 9-2004 |
John i know what you would like me to say ignore the temp gauge. However i would like to make sure you have not any localising of hot spots within the engine. This can be due to many probs but the first is to check your dwell etc. where is the position of the temp sender and what type have you. | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 15 Registered: 2-2005 |
Patrick; when I bought my SRH8685 last April 29 in Germany I had no idea about the condition of the cooling system. I drove from Germany to Greece and even got stuck in a May 1 traffic jam in the Italian highway. 25 plus centigrade ambient temp. and over an hour of stop and go. Needle only up to the start of the solid white line. Got to Greece, did a hydraulics overhaul (drove 1800 kilometers on the front system only, rear pump actuator had snapped), new points, distributor cover, belts, thermostat ( the old one was rusted and stuck open), new temp. sender (fits in the back of the port cylinder bank) and from that day the temp. shoots up. I put back the old sender, no difference. I completely removed the thermostat, a small difference at the rate the needle would climb. "Calibrated" the gauge (by the two small screws on the back) changing the magnetic field and making the gauge indicate a lower value. Replaced the coolant 2-3 times.The coolant will turn a white hue after a few weeks. There seem to be lime deposits in the passages, found out when I removed the intake manifold to repair the brake pump. I even flushed the system with a mild product once. Then during the past winter and with no thermostat, the temp. was always around the middle area. Now that the weather is warming up and with the thermostat re-installed temp goes up. Do you think I should try a reverse flush as per RR shop manual. Radiator and engine block? Or should I remove the radiator and have it opened and cleaned? | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 400 Registered: 9-2004 |
John you have many problems by your account. I do need the dwell and the timing setup figures first. Could you e-mail me at lockyerautogarage@yahoo.co.uk As i have other testing details that i can send to you direct. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 684 Registered: 4-2003 |
John, These problems have persisted for one year too many on your car. They should have been sorted out in a few days, or a week at the most. Please find proper help as this Forum is clearly unable to solve the problems you have. RT. | ||
| Harry Kuurio Experienced User Username: harry_kuurio Post Number: 29 Registered: 4-2004 |
Hi John, RT usually has it right, if ever wrong? His advice is at par once again. However, you could try lifting the radiator out for inspection before taking the whole car for testing. There's no harm in doing that, and if I'm not completely wrong, the rad can be lifted out with reasonably little work. If it turns out to be somewhat blocked then there you have it; if not - then you have DEFINETELY ruled out one major factor. Excuse me, if my experience is off marque, but I've found similar symptoms on two Jags of mine - one (a quite rare 2.8 S1 Daimler of '70) turned out beeing just fine on running temperatures even though the "Smiths" -gauge only "just" reached the white line; whileas the truly awesome V12 on my Sportspack XJ-S has a reasonably strange 1/3 - 2/3 cooling system and partially operating radiator (trying to cope the engine's huge cooling fluid volume of 20 liters with modern, quickly warming cats) that doesn't even de-air automaticly. Once again, the temp meter fools me occasionally - the barrel-gauges were really designed for US twits who can't differ low from high. Hence the reading may be high even though it actually isn't! "The coolant will turn a white hue after a few weeks." --- Please, could you be more specific? This could be it. As you have tried the infra-red temp reading on your engine I personally wouldn't be too fussy about it. It's fast, economical and reliable. Have it done once again all over the engine when it's getting hot and the on-dash gauge shows a high reading, and there you have it. I couldn't find any report of actual boiling in your postings - was I right? DH | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 16 Registered: 2-2005 |
Thank you for your advice Richard, but I do have the misfortune (regarding my car at least) of living in Greece. "Proper" help therefore is non existent. I feel confident enough with my car after having extensively read the shop manuals, and the forum has been very helpful in answering any questions that I have had so far. Never the less, excuse me if I have gone over the edge by repeatedly trying to solve a problem that lingers. Harry; the hue in the coolant seems to be from the white deposits found in the water passages in the block.I will remove the radiator first thing next week. | ||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 375 Registered: 4-2003 |
John I thought I would have my fourpence worth. The discoloration of the coolant is of concern. The first thing I would look for before you pull the radiator out is to do a pressure test on the system. Any competent radiator man can do this. If the radiator will not hold pressure then the coolant is leaking somewhere. Apart from escaping down the side of the block it can only go into the cylinders and be burnt with the fuel or into the sump. For the latter you will usually finish up with a creamy coloured oil which is an emulsion of the lubricant and the coolant. You may have a blown head gasket they are certainly not unknown. Here you can get a situation where the low pressure oil feed to the top of the engine gets into the coolant which gives!!!!! yes creamy coolant. Certainly the block should be thoroughly flushed. Have you removed the drain plugs from the sides of the block. You will probably find these thorouhg ly blocked up with coolant deposits. These can be removed witha hand driven drill until you clear a passage through to the coolant. Having flushed everything you can out of the block take the radiator to a specialist and have him rod it. The core becomes blocked with bits of the crud from the engine and they jam in the core pipes restricting flow. Your local man can usually poke them out! | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 407 Registered: 9-2004 |
John Aravanis. I can now confirm that you or your car or both are a fraud. First you say that your car SRH 8685 is first registered July 1970 FBY397H. That number was never issued by DVLA. Second that the engine number was 6900 well that is in car SRH 6900. Please tell me what this reg EYA 4358 means to you. | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 17 Registered: 2-2005 |
It seems that there are a few people on these forums who make it a habit to insult others who they know nothing about. It is also surprising that moderators don't block these insulting messages. It is the first time in my life and in my career as a doctor of nuclear medicine that someone "confirms" that I am a fraud. I guess this is the price that I must pay for buying an old and neglected Shadow from Germany (12.400 euros), bringing it to Greece, paying another 15.000 euros for special taxes and Greek registration just because I admire old cars and feel proud that I saved another Shadow (actually a one owner car)from demise. For 10-15 thousand euros more I could have bought a mint condition Shadow, but then, where would the fun be? My car, Mr. Lockyer, is indeed chassis SRH 8685 with engine number SY6900 installed by the factory according to the Chassis Card Details I have purchased from RREC. It is a sand colored standard saloon sold to a Mr. Stanley Golby, Stanton House, 2 Greenville Close, Hendon Avenue, London. Sold in June, 1970. Do you want the old gentlemans phone number as well? The vehicle registration document, V5, photocopy I have, states the registration as FBY 397H, to the above owner.(until sold to Germany in the year 2000) Chassis SRH 6900 is a sand colored 1969 standard saloon, BUT with a different engine number as confirmed by Ms. Barbara Weslake of RREC (yesterday over the phone). EYA 4358 is the Greek license plate number as issued by the Greek MoT in August of 2004. I wonder why you did not post your "complimentary" comment in the RREC forum where the above thread exists.... I think I have devoted enough time on this matter, and it is definitely sad to see that instead of being one dedicated group of enthusiasts, people use this forum to insult well meaning-albeit new to the Rolls Royce family-members. I will, not renew, my membership to RREC since anyone is free to roam the forums and insult members who cannot protect themselves; not even on a legal basis. John C. Aravanis M.D. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 446 Registered: 4-2003 |
To all users of this and other Forums, This situation is a direct and deliberate consequence of the actions of individuals from all parts of the world who are collectively described as "Forum Pests". These individuals have the sole purpose of destroying user confidence and participation in Forums such as this. Recent instances of false, spurious and/or deceptive posts on this and other Forums have made our regular contributors very careful about the bona fides of new users. One can only speculate to the motives and state of mind of these individual pests however it is relevant to note here that experience suggests such "pests" are often the first to try and take the "high moral ground" including reference to unfair treatment and then refer to lack of or use of legal remedies when their activities are exposed. The role of censorship on Forums is one that will always be contentious especially given the tactics used by Forum Pests to circumvent measures taken to minimise their effectiveness. Where users suspect a "pest" may be active, they have the right to express an opinion or comment in this regard and the information provided by Pat Lockyer is based on enquiries made by him in the UK once his suspicions were aroused. Whilst the documentation held by Mr Aravanis may be genuine as far as he is concerned; the international practice of vehicle "rebirthing" with false documentation is sufficiently well-known for appropriate checks to be considered necessary if suspicions exist about the provenance of a vehicle. In this case, we have the benefits of the UK vehicle registration system which has particular characteristics which allow number plates, vehicle, date and issuing locality to be uniquely identified. The fact that checks by Mr Lockyer with the relevant authority have shown the number plate quoted by Mr Aravanis in relation to his vehicle was never issued by the UK authorities immediately casts a shadow of doubt over this sequence of posts and Mr Lockyer's comments were considered to be appropriate in this context. This forum has no connection with the RREC[UK] and therefore Mr Aravanis has no reason to not renew his membership of this Club. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 720 Registered: 4-2003 |
Interesting twist: a smoking gun. There is a post from the RREC administration on their forum today after suspicions arose on build sheet claims in a similar current thread in the UK concerning - surprise, surprise - the very same car. The administrator points out that: Their archivist is on holiday this week and was not at Hunt House on Monday. The only other person who knows how to check the records was not contacted. That person looked up the original build sheets of both chassis today, and confirms that chassis no SRH6900 was fitted with engine no 6900, and that chassis number SRH8685 was fitted with engine number 8685 What now chaps ! RT. | ||
| Gordon Norris Prolific User Username: crewes_missile Post Number: 157 Registered: 2-2005 |
A word of caution: The build sheets we obtain are photocopies, and as such are the easiest of documents to tamper with, and can be used to "authenticate" a rebirthed car as mentioned above by David. When shopping for my Bentley, I saw one car with build sheets, where the numbers just didn't add up, so to speak, and on closer examination I could actually see where the build sheets had been "cut and pasted" to match the car, (as had the car!..it was a cut-and-shut job from HK) I would hate to think that had I bought that car, believing it's specs and the build sheets to be genuine, and then sought assistance in a forum that I would be open to suspicion. I am aware there are other particulars and claims made by Mr. Aravanis in this particular case, as detailed above by Pat, David and Richard, that just don't seem to stand up to closer scrutiny, but I feel that it is worthwhile mentioning the build sheet issue as a cautionary tale for others. Unless you have ordered and obtained the build sheets yourself directly from RREC, DON'T BELIEVE OR RELY ON THEM! GN. | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 201 Registered: 8-2003 |
Gordon; Your comments where the first thing I thought of too when I read the earlier posts. But when I went back and read Mr. Aravanis post again I noticed a problem as Mr. Aravanis says and I quote: "according to the Chassis Card Details I have purchased from RREC." But, your point is one that I think at least should be post more often to warn people looking for advise before they buy. Best regards, Bill | ||
| Johnny Unregistered guest Posted From: 144.137.220.73 |
Re: Engine Numbers/Dr Aravanis posting 26 April 2005 Moderator's Advice: The content of this post has been withheld pending further enquiries with the Registration Authorities in the UK regarding engine changes involving the vehicles detailed - a decision will be made regarding posting this message when the results of these enquiries are to hand. (Message edited by david_gore on April 27, 2005) (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 723 Registered: 4-2003 |
Dear John, and other participants, APOLOGY. The RREC just now has advised that SRH8685 is stated on Page 1 of its build sheets as having motor SY8685. HOWEVER On page 6 of the build sheets it states SY6900 as John has stated. Chassis number SRH6900 records on its front page and warranty card that it has engine number 6900, however the engine specification page gives the actual engine number as SY5096. Please accept my apologies as I didn't look past page 1 of the build sheets. Both cars must have had their motors exchanged at some time. What is odd is that factory exchange motors almost always had their motor serial numbers altered to match the original build sheets' front page. Please take into consideration David Gore's wise posting earlier. My statement earlier, apparently confirmed by the build sheets, was motivated by the suspicions raised through many earlier unscrupulous participants. Yours sincerely, Richard Treacy. | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 18 Registered: 2-2005 |
Thank you Richard, for setting things straight. Sincerely, John Aravanis | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 409 Registered: 9-2004 |
John an apology from myself with regard to the engine number not a fraud,i hope you will except. As for the reg number FBY 397H i still confirm by my trade books that this number was never issued to this London destined car when it left the factory. Prehaps my book is incorrect. Mr Golby could confirm this but as yet i for some strange reason after many calls and messages cannot get a reply. Now for some more strange facts that i cannot understand. Both cars colours are Sand. The other car SRH6900 with registration DYW538 well that is a 1937 june - sept London issued number. It could be issued to that car when new but only as a cherished number in 1969. Strange what do you think. | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 202 Registered: 8-2003 |
Dr. Aravanis; I to hope you accept my sincere apology. I hope you will understand that what has been happening with others has sadly caused this distrust. I hope that soon we can all get over it and on to helping each other with RR problems and not have to question every post. As I for one feel that this site and others are a real benefit and we will all loose (and a unmentioned other will have won) if this wonderful site is lost. Now John, back to your car. Have you tried doing away with the gas additives and readjusted your timing? I still think you are wasting your money adding this lead to the fuel and I also wonder what that is doing to your octane. On the over heating, I think I remember you said at one point you used a conditioner or something similar in the coolant. If so what was that? Best regards, Bill | ||
| Robert Chapman Prolific User Username: shadow Post Number: 167 Registered: 5-2003 |
OUTRAGOUS OUTRAGOUS more "incorrect facts" as he calls them. This half hearted, qualified, excuse for an apology is far to little to late. How many contributors’ doe’s Pat Lockyer have to insult before he is suspended. Just what doe’s he have to do! I call for his immediate and permanent suspension from this forum. It is little wonder the forum has degenerated into a three-way conversation. Other people have been suspended for far less. The forum has become akin to a lynch mob, hang them first ask questions afterward. | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 203 Registered: 8-2003 |
First off my apologies (for this ill placed post) to the Webmaster and David Gore without whose tireless work this site would not exist. Now, to all; In summer of 2003 I was grateful to stumble across this wonderful site as I had dropped my membership in the RROC, for reasons stated before. I was happy to find a site where everyone seemed to have the “right attitude”. People cared more about helping each other keep these Great Cars “afloat”. I know recently I have said things or made comments I was out of place in making, I hope and feel I apologized for those ill chosen remarks. I also know that I have had comments directed at me and most have apologized for those. In our love for this marquee we all have strong feelings and pride. This (along with other problems) has come between all of us and our goal to help preserve these cars for generations to come. I guess, what I am asking is that we ALL take a lesson from our cars. Let us be dignified and work for the one and real goal we all wish that these cars continue to live for the enjoyment of generations yet come. Best regards, Bill PS if the above has offended anyone let me apologies now but real enough is enough. | ||
| Gordon Norris Prolific User Username: crewes_missile Post Number: 161 Registered: 2-2005 |
The above episode with Dr. Aravanis is an unfortunate example of my oft expressed fear that an innocent would sooner or later be wrongly accused. I too offer my sincere apologies for referring to John as "Mr." instead of "Dr." after he declared his credentials, all the more disrespectful in that I am a Doctor myself. SUGGESTION: Can I be so bold as to make the suggestion that if any members' bona fides are regarded as possibly questionable, that rather than open forum accusations being made, the matter is discretely referred to the forum moderators, who can then more tactfully approach that contributor, explaining the situation and seeking some proof of their bona fides. To avoid overloading the already strained and diligent moderators, this could be done with behind-the-scenes help of trusted forum members if necessary. Before the influence of US style lawyering and hollywood, I seem to recall a principle of "innocent until proven guilty, beyond reasonable doubt" in our justice system. Whilst this is not a court, it's still a good principle to keep in mind. It is all too easy to get caught up in a witch hunt, and due to the suspicions now seeded in the forum from within and without, none of us are immune to getting involved. I am privately as guilty as any. Possible legal ramifications must also be considered, and fortunately Dr. Aravanis has been most gracious in his attitude. It could easily have been otherwise. Remember: the loss of confidence, turmoil, suspicion, and witch-hunts only play into the hands of anyone seeking to disrupt the forum. The "destroy from within" tactic has been used in politics, espionage and war to good effect on the world stage for thousands of years. Let's not let the forum implode. Bill Trovinger has described the virtues of this forum most eloquently, above. I find it the best, most useful, "hands-on" forum serving these great cars, when many other forums deride and discourage self-help and independent repairs. We must work together to preserve the integrity of both the cars and the forum. Finally, from the other perspective, another quote oft used by me: "Just because you're paranoid, it doesn't mean the bastards aren't after you.."  GN. | ||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 397 Registered: 4-2003 |
From one who must claim the mantle of the most gullible contributor I quite agree with Gordon. I don't want to know anything about 'these people' - if they take me up the garden path I am far too old to be offended and if they have nothing better to do I am sorry for them. But please leave the sorting out to the moderators and if there is a large difference of opinion, note it, beg to differ, and move on. Life is too short and there are a lot of cars! | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 447 Registered: 4-2003 |
As the ultimate loser in this situation which is the direct consequence of the past actions of forum pests, I was always going to be in a no-win situation. I have a responsibility to our regular contributors to ensure only genuine posts are submitted for their help and they do not waste their valuable time on non-existent problems merely to satisfy the perpetrator's misguided needs. I also have a responsibility to ensure genuine enquirers are able to post their requests and get the help they need. It is akin to walking on the edge of a razor blade; one slip and the damage is done! In the case of Dr Aravanis; certain aspects of his posts raised suspicions that the posts were the work of a "pest" as follows: 1. His initial expression and grammar was consistent with someone to whom English was not his first language yet his later posts were consistent with someone who had an excellent command of the English language. This has been a notable characteristic of a specific "pest" on other forums. 2. He referred to the use of 100 octane petrol in his vehicle and it was brought to my attention that 100 octane petrol is not commercially available in Greece. 3. A provenance check on Dr Aravanis's vehicle revealed the UK registration number of the vehicle was not shown on DLVA records and this remains a concern as the vehicle may be a "rebirth" - we are trying to establish further details on the UK registration of the vehicle to assist Dr Aravanis in this regard. It is my policy to encourage robust and provocative contributions to this forum without imposing onerous censorship and I recognise this carries the risk of offending some users and visitors. I also have the belief that almost all of us are mature and intelligent enough to tolerate the occasional instance when an individual may overstep the mark and not resort to legal action to intimidate others - remember the old retort from our childhood days "sticks and stones may break my bones but names will never hurt me". I understand the moderator of the RREC website has spoken personally to Dr Aravanis who is a member of the RREC and confirmed his identity; accordingly I sincerely apologise to Dr Aravanis for any hurt, embarassment or offence my own actions may have caused. Yours sincerely, David Gore - Moderator PS: I have decided not to publish the post by "Johnnie" as it is a repetition of the content of previous and subsequent posts and does not add anything new to this discussion. | ||
| Gordon Norris Prolific User Username: crewes_missile Post Number: 165 Registered: 2-2005 |
David, The task of being a moderator is indeed not to be envied. However, I think you have done a stirling job under difficult circumstances. I would suggest it is a no-win situation akin to being asked by one's wife/girlfriend/partner "does my bum look big in this?"  GN. | ||
| John Aravanis Experienced User Username: krug300 Post Number: 19 Registered: 2-2005 |
Mr. Gore, I had promised myself not to post further comments on this "thread", but I must clarify some final matters. 1) The initial post in this thread is not written by me, the English in my postings so far is consistent from what I can see during a review that I did. Although I have lived in Greece for the last 25 years I think I manage English reasonably well. 2)100 octane petrol (gasoline) has been commercially available in Greece for the last 2-3 years, in unleaded form of course. BP, Shell, and a couple of Greek companies all sell premium unleaded, at a premium price never the less ( 0.98- 1.15 euros per liter). 3)The registration "in question" belonged to the first owner-I bought the car from its second owner who had it registered in Germany. I have in person talked to the elderly man who first owned the Shadow and he was actually surprised and moved that 4-5 years after he traded in the Shadow, another owner (myself) called him only to find out more about the vehicle's history. I only mentioned the number because it was on a V-5 photocopy that I received with the German title when I bought the car last April. Sincerely, John C. Aravanis |
